New restaurant Sugo serves Italian food at its finest – fancy-ish but wholly fuss-free.

When Ian Harrison says Tauranga’s new eatery, Sugo, is his happy place, it’s a comment to savour. He’s opened 19 restaurants and hotels on behalf of others, five of them in two years as an executive chef, and cooked his way around the world for 20-plus years working with chefs of high repute and at Michelin-starred restaurants. Until recently, his dream was to own an intimate fine-dining restaurant, but now he’s toned it down a tad – and he couldn’t be happier. He suspects New Zealand has rubbed off on him.

British-born Ian is chef and co-owner of Sugo, which became a tasty addition to Tauranga’s eating scene in early November. “It’s contemporary, seasonal, fresh and a nod to Italy, but it’s also no fuss,” he says. “I now know I’ll never open that fine-dining restaurant I used to dream about. I just want good, fresh food in a relaxed setting. I think I’ve become a Kiwi!”

Ian came to New Zealand for eight months, 10 years ago. He fell in love with the country – and one of its inhabitants, whom he’s since wed. Five years were spent in Auckland then it was on to the Bay of Plenty, where he was executive chef at Alpino and Clarence. At Alpino, he sharpened his skills in Italian cuisine; at Clarence he fine-tuned his European-Kiwi tools. “Those combined, brought me to Sugo,” he says.

On Wharf Street, Sugo is hard to miss. The facade of the Italian-inspired eatery is green, white lights and planters hang overhead, and red umbrellas shelter tables topped with terracotta plant pots. There’s an abundance of décor wow indoors, where a variety of seating options cater for 60 to 70. Alfresco dining numbers (when the Wharf Street upgrade is completed) will sit at 50. 

Sugo’s tagline is “Italian inspired” and Ian believes anyone who’s been to Italy will taste the connection. Ian, who preserves and ferments as well as cooks, enthuses over seasonal and fresh food, and says pasta and antipasti are stars, as are unsung heroes in the meat world. ‘Sugo’ means ‘sauce’ and there’ll be plenty of that – he’s a dab hand at making them and they’re a key element in Italian cooking.

Instead of fussing excessively over presentation and the addition of numerous ingredients, Ian says he’d rather spend time finding suppliers (he has about 19) who offer top-notch products. “I want to source the best ingredients I can find, do as little as possible to them, then deliver so the products can sing. He doesn’t see the need for too many ingredients per dish, either, nor an extensive menu.

Ian and business partners Josh Fitzgerald and Warren and Megan Lippi-Smith have ensured Sugo dining is also relatively affordable – most mains are $30 and nothing’s over $35. A lunch menu will be added in February, perfect for those working in the CBD. Oh, and free of charge are dog biscuits made on-site for visiting pooches. 

“I’m cooking good food, enjoying myself and making my mum and dad proud,” says Ian. “This place reminds me why I got into doing what I do.”

SUGO.CO.NZ