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Expert Constance Santos on your skin’s natural barrier

Little good can come of cosmetic treatments if your skin’s natural barrier isn’t functioning well, says our expert Constance of Mt Maunganui’s Epidermis & Sage. Here’s how to get yours sussed.

Your skin has a protective barrier that functions to keep good things in and bad things out, such as bacteria and pollution. It’s made up of skin cells, and oils like fats, ceramides and omegas. That barrier is sometimes called the lipid layer or acid mantle.

Keeping your skin barrier healthy is vital for good skin health and optimal function. There are lots of things that can impair its function such as poor product usage, environmental factors and diet. An impaired function can lead to chronic skin conditions. Dermatitis, eczema and acne as well as dry, irritated skin are often the signs of a poor barrier function, as is skin that ages rapidly.

There are some fantastic beauty treatments out there – including needling, microdermabrasion and peels – but if your skin’s barrier isn’t healthy, you won’t get the benefit from them. It all comes down to your skin’s ability to make good, healthy, organised collagen. Most of these treatments work by stimulating a healing response, which produces healthy collagen through the controlled creation of a wound that sends the skin into repair mode. If your skin’s barrier is already impaired, you don’t want to add extra inflammation to the mix. Your skin is already concentrating on repairing itself and it can only do so much, so when it’s overwhelmed with an inflammatory response, activities like collagen production become a lesser priority.

How do you ensure your skin has a well- functioning barrier? It needs to stay in balance. For example, make sure you are having enough Omega-3 in your diet. If you aren’t getting enough, it’ll show on your skin. Another simple way of repairing an impaired barrier is to use a great cleanser (I recommend the Roccoco Botanicals Pore Cleansing Oil or Roccoco Botanicals Soothing Cleansing Oil) that works to restore balance to the barrier function.

Don’t forget, though, everything’s connected. What you eat and drink also affects your skin and gut, which makes taking essential fatty acids (EFAs) effective too (I recommend Pure Encapsulations EFA Essentials). Doing so will nourish your skin from the inside, and they’re anti-inflammatory as well. As I said, balance is important. Omega-3 is the best EFA for the skin. Omega-6 and Omega-9 also have good benefits, but too much Omega-6 can actually be inflammatory, so it’s best to talk to a skin therapist and get the right blend and dose for you.

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