WORDS KSENIIA SPODYNEIKO PHOTOS ALEX SPODYNEIKO

Heat, wine and art deco parties. Welcome to Hawke's Bay

WINE AND DINE

World-famous wineries are obviously a big drawcard. You can cycle your way round the wineries (bikeabouttours.co.nz) which could end up being challenging if you over-indulge on the way round! If you're tempted to indulge, the cosy boutique Wineries Ride through. But if tipsy bike balancing is not the way you imagined your perfect vacation, focus on the “three whales” of local vineyards to skim the cream off the best Hawke’s Bay has to offer.

Mission Estate is definitely the first check point for any tourist. The oldest winery in New Zealand is located 20 minutes away from Napier – quite hard not to call on the way to the other sights. Outdoor lunches are adorable here! Pretty much the way you would imagine them to be in the year 1851, when the winery was established. Elegant architecture, muted talks, inspiring views and fantastic food. Leaving this place without giving local cheeses platter a try is a crime. Creamy blue “Kapiti Kikorangi” itself is worth $32, but this price also includes two more sorts and a bunch of fruits, jams and crackers. 

The other must-sees are Craggy Range (voted Best New World Winery) and Elephant Hill. Two “sisters” where built by the same architect and share the same standards of producing the best wine ever. Though skipping any of these would be a mistake. Surrounded by the epic mountains Craggy Range celebrates all things French – from cuisine to the architecture and landscapes. Whereas family-owned Elephant Hill belongs to Germans – determined and precise people focused on high technologies and outstanding presentation. Just ask for their iconic Airavata Syrah degustation ($120 per bottle while the degustation is only $5) and be ready to watch the show.

WHAT TO SEE

To feel the vibes of the festive Hawke’s Bay start with exploring its gem – Napier. The best way to discover this city is obviously by vintage car. Because where else if not in the world’s Art Deco capital? Either rent a lovely Hooters’ open top next to the Masonic Hotel or book one of the perfectly polished Art Deco Trust cars around the corner. Tere Morales-Probert from the latest is the guide to die for. 45 minutes in one car with her and you are ready to move here immediately – impossible to resist her jokes, positive attitude and touching love to Napier.

After the tour around the city and aesthetically beautiful lunch at Mission Estate head towards Havelock North – quiet small town right next to the picturesque Te Mata Peak. But no more city life for today! Time for some tough outdoor calories burning. Leave the car by the main entrance – only you, your big water bottle and spectacular surroundings are ahead. The 5 km hiking trail across Te Mata is challenging, but definitely worth the sweat. Just imagine yourself balancing on a narrow path at the very top of the mountain chain – scorched by the sun valleys on both sides, wind in your hair and Giant Redwoods at your feet. Welcome to the Real Middle Earth! The only thing ruining the euphoria of conquering the top is a steady roadway right to the peak. Honestly, how dare all those people distract you from this workout by passing by in their air conditioned 4x4? 

But nothing on Earth can ever compare with an adventure of getting to the famous Cape Kidnappers on a 1949 tractor! Sure, you’ve heard the story about the Tahitian boy, kidnapped by local Maori from the Captain Cook’s ship. Yes, that is that place! No one kidnaps people here anymore, on the contrary, they come willingly to see the world’s largest accessible Gannet Colony. There are several ways to get to the beautiful birds, starting from the 9 km walk along the beach – definitely not the most pleasant option! Mind the way back as well. Whereas comfy and fun trip with Gannet Beach Adventures is. Those guys use huge vintage tractors to bring people right to the bottom of Cape Kidnappers. As if the trip on the machines like that wasn’t epic enough itself, tractors are driven into the ocean or up the massive stones to make adrenaline rush through your veins. Guides tell interesting stories about this unique place and make jokes after jokes. Though the one about four million dollars made by one of the guides looked not quite as a joke! And he is divorced by the way. Just saying…

WHERE TO STAY

Hawke’s Bay is all about atmosphere and the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier is 100% the perfect place to dive into it from the very first second. Located in one of the rare buildings not ruined by the 1931 earthquake, this hotel is insane.

Just imagine, they still keep the secret underground bar, operated during the years when alcohol was prohibited! Bar counter, graffiti, chairs – everything is left as if it was abandoned only yesterday. Though, guests are not allowed to come down these days. 

Many other things are preserved here right as they were made a century ago: massive staircases, tiny doors (how slim and short people used to be!), old-fashioned chandeliers and mirrors. So you literally live in history.

The most exciting part about this hotel? Not a single room is like another! Makes every of your 46 trips to Hawke’s Bay pretty special, huh? That is exactly how many rooms they have.

Masonic Hotel can easily be called the city’s centre of gravity – no matter if you’re in search for the Six Sisters houses, returning from the jazz concert, or just feel like buying a scoop of real fruit ice cream from the nearest shop – you will always end up nearby the hotel. Isn’t it just convenient?