Paradise found
Aitutaki’s crystal-clear waters and relaxed vibe isn’t just for honeymooners. It’s what makes Rarotonga such a must-visit destination for Kiwis.
words Cameron Scott
There’s much more to the Cook Islands than Rarotonga, the colourful tropical island which, thanks to its international airport, use of New Zealand currency, and excellent tourist infrastructure, draws most of the Kiwi visitors to this far-flung tropical paradise.
This tiny South Pacific country is actually made up of 15 islands with a total land area of just 240 square kilometres, but scattered over a mind-boggling two million square kilometres of Pacific Ocean – from isolated Penrhyn in the north, to cooler-climate Mangaia in the Southern Group.
Of all the outlying islands, Aitutaki tops the list for visitors wanting to explore more of what the Cook Islands has to offer. This languid tropical paradise covers an area of just 18.05 square kilometres, but there’s certainly no lack of things to do or see – and plenty of opportunity to abandon your cares and relax on a pristine beach beside one of the world’s most spectacular lagoons.
Some first-time visitors to the Cook Islands organise their flights to catch a quick connection to Aitutaki shortly after their arrival in Rarotonga. But I’d recommend first spending a couple of days in Rarotonga to get used to the balmy Cook Islands weather and experience a little of the 32km-diameter island’s many cultural and scenic attractions. For a quick taste of Aitutaki, a day trip with Air Rarotonga is also highly recommended and will surely inspire a longer return visit.
Home to just 1800 people, Aitutaki is even more relaxed and laid-back than Rarotonga, retaining much of its authentic charm. The low-lying atoll itself has 15 islands (only one is inhabited), and its spectacularly vast and gorgeous lagoon is surrounded by a protective reef.
Aitutaki has an excellent selection of accommodation to suit all budgets and, in general, is warmer and sunnier than Rarotonga, with a better chance of blue skies. And while it is small, you’ll find no shortage of beautiful, private beaches fringed with coconut trees. There’s also plenty of things to do, most of them naturally involving water activities.
You’ll arrive at Aitutaki Airport, a former WWII airfield located at the triangular-shaped island’s northern point. The island’s largest village, Arutanga, is on the west side.
PLAY
Of all the things to do on Aitutaki, exploring the lagoon and its islets is the best. Go kayaking from a secluded white sand beach or join a boat tour and visit One Foot Island, where you can have your passport stamped at the world’s smallest post office. There’s some of the finest snorkelling you’ll find anywhere, in pristine waters teeming with colourful tropical fish. At night, enjoy an island night cultural show with a traditional umu (the island equivalent of a hangi) feast and Cook Island dancing. It’s also an essential part of the Aitutaki experience to meet some of the friendly, fun-loving locals and visit the oldest church in the Cook Islands, built of coral and limestone in Arutanga village in 1823. A good way to learn the history and culture of the island is to take a guided tour, or simply hire a scooter or bicycle and explore at your leisure.
Wet & Wild Water Tours
Wet & Wild Water Tours offer boat charters, a water taxi, kite and wake boarding, tube riding, water skiing, fishing and spearfishing, whale-watching, sightseeing and much more. Humpback whales pass near Aitutaki on their migratory path from July to October.
Bishop’s Cruises
Famous for its well-organised lagoon cruises, offering a truly memorable experience, Bishop's Cruises also specialise in organising spectacular weddings on One Foot Island. Whatever you want to do, they’ll take care of every detail, making your big day ultra-special.
Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish
If fishing is your thing, Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish offers full and half-day guided fly fishing adventures on the Aitutaki lagoon, targeting bonefish and trevally. The bonefish are big, averaging 28 to 30 inches, while the trevally are guaranteed to put up a big fight.
Aitutaki Day Tour
At the top end of the scale, Island Hopper Vacations offer an exclusive Aitutaki Day Tour which includes return VIP airport transfers on both Rarotonga and Aitutaki, return private jet flights, a private tour of Aitutaki and a private boat charter and lagoon cruise, with a special buffet lunch on an uninhabited motu (island).
Pacific Resort Aitutaki has won awards for its luxurious accommodation and superior service.
STAY
Pacific Resort Aitutaki
The spectacular award-winning Pacific Resort Aitutaki offers 29 luxurious bungalows and villas with wide views across the lagoon. Indulge with a massage at Tiare Spa or grab a kayak or stand-up paddle board to explore the lagoon waters. The only member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World in Aitutaki, the resort welcomes guests aged 12-plus.
Tamanu Beach Resort
On the eastern coast of Aitutaki, Tamanu Beach Resort has relaxed Polynesian-style bungalows and is right on the beach in Amuri village. The resort has two wings, one for adults only and the other for families. On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 6.30pm, the resort hosts a special feast featuring delicious local food as well as the
island's traditional singing and dancing.
Rino’s Aitutaki Beach Apartments
At the affordable end of the scale and offering
all the essentials for a relaxing holiday, Rino's Aitutaki Beach Apartments has a selection of cozy self-catered beach apartments a few steps from the beach.
Aitutaki Beach Villas
With just four private, self-contained beach bungalows, this tranquil spot is ideal for everything from honeymoons to family getaways. Set beside a safe and beautiful beach, it’s also an easy walk from the island’s larger hotels, restaurants and shops.
The freshest of seafood features on the menus of most Aitutaki restaurants and cafés.
EAT
Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant
Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant offers a true Pacific Island dining experience with delicious foods and friendly, island-style hospitality. Nestled on the beach beside Aitutaki's sensational lagoon, this a la carte restaurant has a good selection of Pacific Island cuisine along with a Western favourites and opens seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
tamanubeach.com/restaurant-bar
Avatea Café
Boldy staking claim to “the best food in Aitutaki,” the family owned Avatea Café is located in Tautu and is known for its laid-back outdoors atmosphere and friendly service. The well-presented food ranges from crepes and coffee for breakfast, to sashimi pizza and the café’s famous fish curry and homemade naan bread for dinner. After a day exploring the lagoon, their Aitutaki Brewery beer is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner every day except Sunday.
The Boat Shed Bar & Grill
A reliable destination for good drinks and seafood for lunch or dinner, this popular establishment offers wonderful views of the lagoon and beyond. The menu includes Japanese sushi platters, sashimi plates, chicken teriyaki, and local seafood dishes. If you’ve had a successful day’s fishing, the chefs are happy to cook your catch. The children’s playground is a plus – as are the well-priced cocktails
Mango Take Away Aitutaki
If you’re looking for a good meal on the go, you’ve found it right here. Mango Take Away in Amuri is handy to some of Aitutaki’s main resorts and hotels and serves up a delicious selection of pizza, pasta, burgers and Asian dishes, as well as cakes, pastries and desserts. You can tell how good this unassuming little establishment is by the number of locals who visit.
cookislands.travel/supplier/mango-take-away
Getting there
Aitutaki is the ideal place to shake off the stresses of modern-day living and escape the chilly depths of a New Zealand winter. Air Rarotonga flies a jet-prop Saab 340B Plus aircraft from Rarotonga to Aitutaki up to five times daily. You can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.