Break out a new look this autumn.

Words Nicky Adams

Winter warmers

Some people absolutely love winter fashion – the cosying up, full cover or layering are all considered seasonal techniques that are tried, tested and nigh on always a success. The appeal of the winter palette is another drawcard for many when it comes to staple pieces for those that happily gravitate towards classic darker tones. The big advantage that I see in a winter wardrobe is the ability to really explore beautiful fabrics. New Zealand has access to an abundance of natural fibres – wool in multiple forms such as Merino, as well as cashmere, beautiful silks that all make for stunning winter wear. For 2024 texture is a trending look, and nothing makes for a better textural visual than a combination of fibres – silky satin paired with leather, a super soft fine cashmere skirt matched with a heavy woollen cover up. A longline coat (or floor sweeper) is a definite staple must-have for winter. Often worn oversized with room for plenty of layers beneath, a tailored coat is something that
will never date. A strong look has been the incorporation of loungewear, which many A-listers have styled for colder months under tailored outerwear. The juxtaposition of hoody and sweatpants under a beautiful coat is a love it or hate it look. Meanwhile, the ultimate piece of winter footwear has to be the Ugg boot. A Southern Hemisphere staple for decades, it had a peak fashion moment in the early 2000s, which while it dipped back to lingering in the background, certainly seems to have come to the fore again this year.
And what’s not to love – comfort and practicality rolled into a squishy package. Leaning into brown colourways will be huge, from chocolate to chestnut, and as luck would have it brown pairs beautifully with the other hot seasonal colour of red.

Mix it up

Over-the-knee and thigh-high boots have been begging to be let back in the wardrobe for a while now. At first glance they may seem better suited to the streets of New York than the Bay of Plenty, but they can be more versatile and low key than first appears. If you don’t think you can make it work for you, then a pointed toe kitten heel ankle boot or a pair of Mary Janes should be a must have. Another hot ‘outfit maker’ would be a good piece of hardware. Adorned belts straight away become a statement piece – elevating a white tee shirt and jeans from blah to bling. There is going to be a lot of fluff around, particularly with coats and jackets – whether feather, fur or teddy – it can take a brave person to go head to toe, so if this is daunting then stick with the trim. If you go for fuzz, then contrast with something silky, or accessorise with a pair of leather gloves – a really stylish mix of textures. Whilst I hate to say leather again, it’s hard to avoid, because leather/faux leather has been so huge on the runways. Rather than rugged, the leather this season has a more feminine feel. A classic leather dress need not be a bank breaker, and a sleeveless slip style is ageless. If you want a wow separate, then sheer is the way to go. It’s everywhere, and it doesn’t have to be revealing – Rita Ora most of us are not. So pop a cami under a mesh top or bodysuit for modesty or a slip under a sheer dress and away you go. Oversized is the way to wear your knitwear, from turtleneck to crewneck – if it feels overwhelming then ‘knotting’ has become a styling technique. Equally the knotted look has carried over onto tops and dresses, which takes a shift style into something with a more flattering silhouette as well as adding to the aesthetic. 

Gotta have it

The trends amplified by algorithms.

The fashion industry has had a makeover, embracing the concept that this is the age of wearing what suits us, and what makes us feel good. Nevertheless there will always be trends – the question is, who actually sets them? 

We have entered an era where there is no clear authority. Previously fashion influences were straightforward, coming directly from the runway to the Highstreet to our wardrobe, with trends glamourised by A-list celebrities. Now we have social media, and with it an entirely different force to be reckoned with. The generational split of Tik Tok is narrowing, and now trends that rock on this platform are pitched not just at youth culture, but are more inclusive, finding different corners of the platform for the more mature audiences. With everyone from ‘Jo Public’ posting to highly strategised marketing campaigns being rolled out, it’s a forum for everyman. Even low-level social media followers will find they are exposed to various influencers aligned with clothing brands, designers and stores, opening our eyes to looks and styles we might otherwise have missed. The more we identify with someone, the more we’re likely to try out a trend.

So it’s little surprise that the latest looks come not just by way of the catwalks, but also through your feed. The interesting thing about the latest viral trends is that the fashion it's bringing to us are ‘upcycled’ – looks that we’ve not just seen before, but that are achievable with a bit of a dig around Depop, and perfectly suited to the current pared back economy. 

Whooshing through 2024 is the Mob Wife aesthetic. Sweeping Tik Tok it’s everything you imagine and more. Grab your hairspray for bouffant hair, heavy make-up, big furs (real or fake) and show-stopping jewellry; it’s The Sopranos meets The Godfather meets Casino. Seen as a more grown up look than perhaps the Barbiecore craze, it personifies a woman who knows what she wants and who means business. Despite being popularised on the internet, it’s not a concept that has arrived from nowhere. Look to the runway and there will be elements with multiple designers: leather, bodycon, the theatrics of fashion beloved by the Italian designers from Dolce & Gabbana to Gucci. 

The flamboyance of the Mob Wife is an extension of a trend that may have come to us via the fashion houses, but it’s also an iteration of what we find around us in pop culture. And pop culture is where it’s at. One of the biggest star power influencers, Zendaya, has just released
a film based around tennis. No surprise that ‘Tennis core’ is now raging, with mini pleated skirts and sporty chic silhouettes a huge look. Likewise the recent Amy Winehouse film introduced her kitsch unique style to a new generation. The key to embracing the essence without looking as though you’ve delved into a dress up box are to stop short of tacky. Each of these trends will resonate with anyone who loves to reach into the archives of their wardrobes or charity shops where large sunnies, vinyl skirt suits and musty furs are aplenty.

Sitting alongside this over-the-top dopamine dressing is Loud luxury. This again rejoices in the bold – leopard, polka dots, colour and edgier silhouettes – and if you want to indulge in a little logomania, then do so. Seen as the anti ‘old money’ and ‘clean girl’ look, Loud Luxury is overtly glamorous, but always tasteful. Drama, creativity and exuberance are key words – all of them conjuring up a more playful attitude towards fashion. 

If all this sounds a little too out there, then fear not . Quiet Luxury – the head to toe of creams and neutrals, beloved by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow – still simmers away, a low-key look that suits the fashion lover who longs for a wardrobe packed with understated elegance. So while searches for leopard print and faux fur coats have gone through the roof, the power of trend setting becoming more of a democracy means that there is room for everyone at the fashion table. 

Fashion forecast

Get ahead with the latest summer fashion trends.

Sheer Delight 

While sheer fabrics have successfully bridged the gap between day and evening wear, as a rule they tend to be dark tones, predominantly black or slate grey. Spring will see sheer white dresses making their way from runway to street. Eek – the mind boggles with just how many ways this could be a fail.

Rose Tinted Glasses

With a Garden Of Time dress code for the 2024 Met Gala, which has long been considered the highlight of the fashion calendar, it’s perhaps not surprising some of the designers doubled down on their floral creations for their Spring/Summer 2024 collections. However, it’s a very specific nod to Roses. Long thought of as the most romantic of the blooms, it fits with some of the feminine themes that are headlining for this season.

Sport of Course

Sportswear has been elevated to new heights over the last few years, with the lines blurred between leisurewear/loungewear and sportswear. It’s hard to know if activewear with heels will really take off, but it’s easy to see the appeal of oversized hoodies worn as dresses, or trackie tops with jeans.

Ice Ice Baby

Soft icy blue is a welcome colour for spring – limitless in its pairings, with black it feels bold, with brown there’s a bit of a retro vibe, or with beige for elegance. It’s a very versatile shade as it can be worn head to toe without being overpowering and looks good on blondes and brunettes alike.