Spirit of Mexico
Hayley Barnett discovers authentic Mexican cuisine and innovative cocktails in the heart of Mount Maunganui.
photos CHRISTIAN LONGHI
From left: Isaac Partida, Claudia De La Torre and Marco Rodocanachi.
Kiwis are beginning to understand tequila is not just a shot,” Marco Rodocanachi says, delivering another amazingly delicious tequila-based cocktail to UNO's table.
The mixologist and co-owner of the newly-opened Agave at Mount Maunganui’s Cruise Deck is explaining the welcomed shift in perception for the spirit that has largely been known as a party drink and making an incredibly convincing case for a reassessment.
“A lot of people don’t know this, but tequila is probably the healthiest thing you can drink,” he adds, with casual conviction and air quotes around the word “healthy”. “It's not got many calories, it releases serotonin in your brain so it makes you happy, and in terms of alcoholic drinks, there's not really anything better – so long as you’re choosing a quality tequila.”
Marco opened Agave with fellow co-owners and chefs Isaac Partida and Claudia De La Torre last December. He met the couple when they were working together at the foodie favourite Clarence Bistro in Tauranga. They all came to New Zealand six years ago – Marco from Italy and Isaac and Claudia from Mexico – and bonded over their shared passion for Mexican cuisine and drinks.
The trio’s initial idea was a speakeasy. The location was perfect, hidden in the corner of the Cruise Deck. But the large glass bifold doors created an open environment that was somewhat incongruous with the dark and moody vibes of a speakeasy.
The cuisine was always going to be authentic Mexican, and with Marco’s love of tequila, it just made sense to focus on an all-Mexican offering. Isaac and Claudia both grew up cooking with their families. Isaac travelled around Mexico and worked for renowned international chefs, gaining amazing gastronomic experiences along the way.
“There aren’t a lot of restaurants here in New Zealand serving real Mexican fare that isn’t Tex-Mex, so it’s hard to understand what Kiwis will like,” says Claudia. “Mexico is a big place. In the north, it’s more meat and barbeque, and they use wheat instead of corn tortillas. Sometimes people have only tried food from certain parts so it doesn’t seem authentic to them. We’ve had to work out what people like and what they don’t.”
At the moment the menu includes handmade tostadas, veggies with white mole, duck enchilada, and a cacao tart to die for.
“I always said I’d never be a baker of sweet food, but now it’s my favourite thing to make,” Claudia smiles. Isaac and Claudia have kept the flavours as authentic as possible.
“Now that we have more time and are more adapted to the place, we are starting to have regular customers, so can start to play more with the menu and introduce new flavours,” Isaac says, citing the rich, complex flavours of Oaxaca and the slightly sweet seasonings of Chiapas and some new additions they are planning for the menu.
“But slowly,” smiles Marco, suggesting they won’t be alienating those with less than adventurous Kiwi tastebuds. “Very slowly!”
