Modern hearth cooking at Solera - Mount Maunganui’s exciting new restaurant in a wine bar setting

Truffle oil is being drizzled over cheesecake, polenta skewers toast happily on the hearth and a Jerusalem artichoke is being crowned with shards of fire-dried aubergine purée.

It’s all go in the kitchen at Solera, Mt Maunganui’s newish restaurant within a wine bar setting. And, if you (wisely) opt for one of the seats at the chef’s pass, get ready to watch a whole host of such culinary wonders unfold. Plus, the chefs are more than happy to dish up information about what they’re working on.

Solera is the baby of Chloe Ashman and Nick Potts – the result of an idea born out of lockdown. The couple moved to the Bay of Plenty a few years back, armed with years of impressive hospitality experience, Chloe as a sous chef at some of Melbourne’s best restaurants and Nick as a front-of-house manager. Managing a team of 60 in restaurants with serious credentials (among them those owned by top New Zealand chefs Nic Watt and Sean Connolly) was all in a day’s work for Nick. Initially, the couple had no intention of owning a restaurant, so worked at local establishments including Clarence and Fife Lane, but with last year’s lockdown came a lot of time for thinking. They thought it was time for a leap, noticing a potential gap in the Mount market. “We thought we may as well have our own place,” says Nick. “We knew what we wanted to open – we just gauged that by where we’d like to eat ourselves. We knew we wanted a wine bar setting, but Solera is very Melbournian in that it’s not just a bar. There’s something great to eat here too.”

It appears the multitudes concur. Solera bustles. Nick felt a restaurant with seating for about 40 was the way to go. “We have three chefs and three – and sometimes one more – working front of house, and with that number of seats, regardless of how busy you are, the same team can manage. Also important is the fact we’re open only five days a week, because I want the same chefs delivering their same food every time, so we can control consistency.”

Solera’s offering is described as “modern hearth cooking” and the menu is created around sharing plates. Head chef Neil Sapitula tells me the hot faves appear to be the ash-cured kingfish with ginger, coconut, kawakawa and lime; the roasted cauliflower with camembert, walnuts, parmesan and pine nuts; and the apple and pear tarte tatin with ginger and kaffir lime ice- cream. As for Neil’s favourite – that’d be the Jerusalem artichoke with aubergine, kimchi and chili. Neil hails from the Philippines and has also worked in restaurants of high repute, in Hong Kong and Indonesia. He’s ably assisted by Kiwi chef Cameron McKenzie, with Nicolo Batani adding some Italian to the mix. The trio is united in prioritising flavour over technique and presentation. There’s also a focus on fermentation – cases in point being the inclusion of the aforementioned kimchi, and the shiitake mushrooms that are pickled, smoked on the fire, then added to the pork belly skewer. Most items on the menu have a slight Asian influence – the wagyu beef, for example, is marinated with soy and togarashi spice mix.

The kitchen’s big open fire is fed with mānuka and oak timber, and incorporated as much as possible in the cooking (which is also a delightful spectacle). The kingfish cured by ash from the night before is but one example. There’s a strong commitment to local ingredients and the menus are printed in-house, so they’re easy to alter to suit what’s in season. There’s certainly plenty to raise your glass to at Solera, and of course that includes the incredible wines. The unique list celebrates New Zealand drops and includes grape varieties many diners may not be so familiar with, exclusively from smaller wineries. Chenin blanc, malbec and viognier are joined by chilled red wine and an orange wine (white wine made the same way as a red.) All are offered as a standard 150ml pour and as a 100ml pour, with the latter geared towards those who are driving or wishing to try a larger variety of wines. There are cocktails too. Solera has been in business since Easter, but word has spread, and Chloe and Nick are happy to report that “it’s going very well for us.” Diners like me can only say, “Thank you very much.”

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The hotspot eatery stoking the embers for local foodies

An experience like no other on Central Parade in the Mount.

WORDS KATE UNDERWOOD / PHOTO KENRICK RHYS

The opening of Fife Lane is the realisation of a nine-year dream for Ryan and Kat Dippie, who along with their passionate team, transformed the space on Mt Maunganui’s Central Parade into an industrial-chic restaurant. The hotspot eatery is impressing locals and visitors with everything from Gisborne wagyu scotch with blue cheese butter to Coromandel mussels with saffron cream and plenty of vibrant Central Otago pinot noir.

As avid diners themselves, Ryan and Kat felt there was a significant gap in the area. “If you didn’t want to go over the bridge or right down to the Mount, where could you go?” Kat says. Drawing inspiration from New Zealand restaurant stalwarts like Jervois Steak House and Botswana Butchery, Kat says they wanted to create a quality dining experience that complemented other offerings already in the Bay.

Having spent the last nine years as owners of Rain Bar in Papamoa, Ryan and Kat utilised the expertise and collective knowledge of their dream hospitality team to create Fife Lane. Kitchen manager Robbie Webber, frontof-house Keri Harman and bar manager Scott Hinton were all sent on a two-year research stint in Melbourne, to hone their skills and bring back a wealth of fresh inspiration.

The result is an extensive menu specifically designed to provide food that feels both accessible and remarkable. Opt for the Hawke’s Bay lamb shoulder with minted pea puree which is served with crumbed sweet breads, or – from the steak selection – the under-rated French bavette cut. Smaller plates include tender calamari with miso mayo, and a pork belly with cauliflower purée and feijoa chutney. Among the sides, paprika buttered corn cobs and golden beer-battered onion rings are lining up to be favourites, and, from the sharing section the eye fillet beef Wellington and the seafood paella would be fabulous for a crowd.

Taking inspiration from butchers of the past, a custom-built glass meat locker sits at the heart of the space. This fine looking chill room houses an array of aged meat cuts – from West Coast savannah Angus sirloin to a Wakanui Angus rump. And if you order from the cabinet, you also have the luxury of selecting your own steak knife, presented at the table in a bespoke wooden box.

Wine is Ryan’s thing, and he’s dedicated an entire room to housing their diverse range. With barman Scott, they’ve handselected every bottle, including several vintages from across New Zealand and a sprinkling of international varietals. They have wine glass styles fit for every drop, whether it’s a bright Chablis, a German riesling from Kat’s sommelier friend, a pinot blanc blend from Mt Rosa, or Mumm by the glass.

The extensive cocktail menu – which includes a few interesting twists on classics – and the considered whiskey list are served from an immaculate white-tiled bar, which is an elegant contrast to the dining room’s bold black palette and natural wooden elements. The oversized tables were custom-built to allow enough space to comfortably accommodate mains with plenty of room for sides.

Ryan and Kat’s concept for the sophisticated fit-out came to fruition with the help of designer Stacey Smith of Twentyfivebees. Together, they created spaces suitable for intimate dining, families and larger groups. Ryan’s brother Owen Dippie installed his signature tiki artwork which leads to the charming rear dining room where Owen’s wife, Erin, has lined the wall with striking images of whole fish and scotch fillet steaks.

Alongside kitchen manager Robbie’s 30 years of experience, chef Dan Lockhart helped curate the menu, utilising a rare Spanish Mibrasa oven that takes centre stage in the kitchen. The closed barbecue design uses embers (instead of flame) to add a distinctive hint of charcoal to dry-aged scotch and charred asparagus. There’s also a smokey apple pie for dessert and, if that’s a little heavy, a theatrical mocha-gato dessert cocktail could be for you.

While steak is an obvious focus at Fife Lane, it’s far more than a steak restaurant; with options for the meat or seafood-averse such as gnocchi with Kaimai mushroom, broccoli, garlic butter and Parmesan. Ryan is a charismatic host who’ll happily tell you his favourites on the menu and steer you towards the chef’s specialities. But, back to that steak knife box – being offered a choice of blades to slice the tenderest of cuts is an experience which just doesn’t happen often enough in life.