Wardrobe staples to see you through autumn and beyond.

Words Nicky Adams

LOOKS TO LAST

The beauty of fashion in the southern hemisphere is the ability to be one step ahead of the game. Technically, what is being rolled out in the February fashion shows for European winters won’t yet be in our stores; however, fashion has increasingly embraced the view of longevity over trends. This means much of what is being predicted for next year can actually be sourced from the autumn trends hitting the stores now. Gone are the days of crazy catwalks; post-COVID what we’re seeing are multiple everyday looks for everyday women, with just enough pizzazz here and there to keep us fully engaged.

One look that is sure to catch the imagination is the return of layering a dress over pants. For many, this never really went away, but revived for this year the styling is tunic-style dresses with sheer fabrics and lots of detailing in hemlines. Another firm favourite is the shirt dress which, accessorised with an oversized tote, is almost painfully practical but still ultra-glamorous when the shirt dress has been well cut. Key things to look for in this universally flattering style is a cinched waist, full fit-and-flare skirt, roomy top that will accommodate – not squash – the bust, long sleeves for this time of year and, perhaps most importantly, a good weight of fabric that will fall beautifully around your legs. Pair with chunky Chelsea boots or loafers. Another absolute wardrobe staple is a leather skirt; team this with a high-fashion trend of a blouse with exaggerated cuffs falling below the fingertips, and totally elevate a piece of classic styling.

BACK TO THE FUTURE

Warning: This is not a drill. Double denim is back. When you’ve seen it on Michelle Obama, you know that it’s coming our way; more polished and structured than some of the attempts we’ve seen before, this designer interpretation of the Canadian Tuxedo is seriously wearable. Throw on a pair of denim boots, trainers or shoes and you have the trifecta.

For party pieces, the cut-out continues to dominate – from the midriff to side, to back, depending on which area the wearer is most confident revealing. The latest look is one-sided oblique cutouts.
If this feels too adventurous for a pub quiz night, then the slash neck is a hot look that is subtle but super stylish. 

Grunge is having a revival, but this time it’s being used in a more sophisticated way as a detail rather than an entire look. Think faux leather or shearling vest over a dress. The sleeveless silhouette is huge, particularly pairing a tailored waistcoat with matching pants, and the fitted look avoids the androgynous feel often associated with suiting. 

MIXING IT UP

Metallics are still omnipresent, to the extent that not only are silver and gold mainstays as partywear, but they have also been translated into daywear. Animal print, particularly leopard, has managed to work its way right up to cult classic status, while faux snake is fabulous for footwear. Velvet has been re-imagined and is the perfect fabric for autumn leading into winter with options for age, budget and taste. From dresses to coats to blouses, look to the celebrity set and you’ll see that the velvet pantsuit is having a moment. With careful styling, tartan, usually seen as a traditional trend, can be modernised to look more chic and less conventional. Spring/Summer 2023 runways were awash with plaid, which means it will be a transitional pattern, so for longevity pick something in a lighter fabric to carry through and pick a style that puts a twist on a classic piece.

LOW-KEY LUXURY

Recreate an outfit to add some classic elevation. 

Stealth wealth, quiet luxury – all buzzwords for a style of dressing that is understated, empowering and universally flattering. Essentially polished minimalism, it is a look that has been reflected in several blockbuster shows over the last few years – from Shiv Roy in Succession to Sophie Whitehouse (played by Sienna Miller) in Anatomy of a Scandal. Even if you don’t recognise the characters, you’ll know the style. This elegant, classic dress code is one that has been bubbling below the surface in the form of luxe minimalism for some time. So, when it comes to its current popularity, it’s hard to know if life has imitated art, or if these shows have picked up on a micro trend and made it mainstream. What we do know is that this vibe is one that can be successfully translated to every wardrobe and every figure.

While I’ve always admired the sleek streamlined look, it’s never one I’ve considered until I saw Sienna Miller looking utterly serene whilst she
diced vegetables in a white (possibly cashmere) cardigan. Such was her poise and beauty that I decided I, too, should look like this as I loom over my chopping board. As the series progressed, and she showcased look after look of sartorial mastery, my obsession continued, along with a determination to recreate as many of the outfits as possible. Essentially the silhouette is centred around clean classic lines, and beautiful tailoring, and while Sienna Miller’s comes with a hefty price tag
with pieces from The Row, Celine and Max Mara, this doesn’t need to be the case to achieve a similar look.

A start point is a few key pieces, which lend themselves perfectly to autumnal dressing. Head-to-toe neutral tones are a baseline, with shades of white, cream, beige and biscuit as building blocks. White is a strong colour, and there is an immediate elevation of a look when the shade is perceived to be hard to wear – in fact within this colour wheel there will be a hue for every skin tone. In terms of the practicality of wafting around your kitchen in winter white with no apron, this is where choice of fabric is key. Rather than pure silks or cashmere, if your lifestyle is robust, consider polyester and viscose. Something that is machine-washable and man-made is far more durable and stain-resistant, even in pale shades.

Pivotal to achieving this dress code is the concept of a capsule wardrobe, so a number of pieces that can be interchanged, and that will all look fabulous together. A beautiful camel coat would be considered a statement piece, as would a timeless trench. Mixing textures will give added interest to balance the subtlety of the colour shades, so wool skirts or pants worn with silky shirts become striking, or a thick knit jumper over a satin slip dress. Skinny fitting turtle/roll necks styled with straight or wide leg pants is elegant in the extreme – proportions are an important element of the look. Tweed is a fabric as timeless as is it sophisticated, and is currently having its own moment, so a Chanel-esque jacket would be perfect. A tailored feel is more important than figure hugging, and there’s absolutely room for a few vintage pieces within this wardrobe. 

It is the notable absence of labels in this look that has led to the coining of the term ‘stealth wealth’, and the reason why it is so easy to recreate this high end look on a lesser budget. There are multiple New Zealand and Australian designers who produce stunning pieces that fit into this aesthetic – Bassike, Jac + Jack, Silk Laundry and Caroline Sills, to name a few.

To sum it up, “quiet luxury” is elegance without a hint of flashiness. With the key components of neutral colours, high-quality fabrics and a perfect fit – the result is understated at its best; soft power dressing has never been so achievable.

FASHION FORECAST

Winter is coming – and so are these cool, fun fashion trends.

BRIGHT NIGHTS

Winter will be anything but dull. The continuing fixation with bright colourways scream energy and excitement. Pantone’s colour for 2023 is Viva Magenta – alongside this will be fuchsia, vibrant orange, cherry red, even chartreuse: Statement dressers will love the saturation. While head-to-toe block colour is a key look, a vibrant hue can be significantly toned down; try khaki, which is not only on trend, but will also match with multiple bright sheens.

COMING UP ROSES

Emerging trends have seen the traditional floral print superseded by a three-dimensional iteration. The appliqué effect is being used as an embellishment on everything from skirts to dresses to bags; one step further is the garment itself translated as an entire floral fabric structure. Early adopters will find it’s an easy trend to incorporate as an accessory – a fake flower choker around the neck will put you straight in the fashion set.

GOTHIC GLAM

As the darker days draw in there’s a bit of a push for a city-girl aesthetic; this preppy vibe with a bit of goth/grunge thrown in draws a little from the Netflix hit show Wednesday, which has popularised the appeal of A-line silhouettes, Mary Janes and Peter Pan/crisp white collars. The leading colourway for this look is black and white – moody but chic. If you’re having a déjà vu moment with gothic mini dresses and feature collars, you’d be right. It’s all very 2010.

STRAIGHT LACED

The lace-up knee boot is a sophisticated take on the still-super-popular combat boot. A dressier version than the comfort-oriented lug-soled combat sees a chunky or skinny heel with laces running up the back or even the side. Those wedded to walking distances be assured the knee-high combat will be a winter staple.