Spot the difference
Constance Santos from Epidermis & Sage shows you how to treat unsightly pigmentation from the inside out.
Brown spots or dark patches on your skin occur when your skin produces too much of the pigment melanin. We most commonly see four different types of pigmentation issues in our clinic, namely, melasma, post inflammation, liver spots and general sun damage. We will always see an increase in people seeking pigmentation treatment after a hot summer as each of these forms has one common element – they are all made worse by the sun.
When treating pigmentation, often the problem is not just skin deep. There is usually an internal driving force behind it and so long-term results come from removing that trigger before treating the issue externally. This comprehensive approach is better at ensuring any bothersome pigmentation doesn’t return.
Melasma, often called hormonal pigmentation, mainly affects women. It’s symmetrical on both sides of the face and often has a vascular component. Birth control, pregnancy and exposure to hormone disruptors (pesticides) are common causes. It may occur because the liver is overloaded and not coping, so we’d look at liver support to aid the detoxification of hormones, followed by specific skin care and treatments. With this type of pigmentation, it’s important to stay away from laser and IPL treatments, as Melasma is sensitive to heat and these will only worsen the pigmentation.
Post inflammatory pigmentation (PIH) is caused by injury or trauma to the skin. The skin is a very clever organ and will form a little pigment umbrella over any damage – so while we may not like its appearance, it’s there for a reason. An example of PIH is seen in acne or eczema sufferers. To treat this successfully, we need to discover what is causing the inflammation on the skin, target that first and then we can start working at improving the appearance of the pigmentation.
Liver spots are large flat brown or dark spots appearing on your skin. They are usually age related and will not fade on their own in the way a freckle might. We see these start to appear on women (and men) around the age of 50, but there are targeted topical treatments and IPL which can significantly lighten their appearance.
Sun damage is caused by UV light but also can be a result of persistent blue light exposure from your phone or devices. The dark patches seen on the skin’s surface is the result of a dribbling melanocyte cell no longer able to regulate the amount of pigmentation being released. There’s only so much the cell can take before it starts misbehaving and releasing excess pigmentation. It sees that constant light source as something it needs to protect the skin against, and it makes more and more pigmentation without the ability to regulate it. So, whipping it off with a peel will not keep it at bay. Repairing DNA damage at the same time as treating the surface is an important step.
Before
After
When it comes to even skin tone, we always advise our clients to:
Find a really great mineral sunblock. Chemical sunscreen can cause heat within the skin, making pigmentation worse. Reapply! Sunscreen needs to be applied every 2.5 hours (there are some easy reapplication options out there, including our Skinbetter Science sunscreen compact).
Use your recommended products both day and night. These should include tyrosinase inhibitors, vitamin A and, niacinamide and vitamin C.
Cover up, wear long sleeves and look for shady areas. If you are dedicated to fading or preventing pigmentation, make sure you always have a hat and sunnies to throw on.
Treatment at our clinic will be different for each type of pigmentation. We have a range of services which can work in combination to give you the best possible outcome. It can be effectively treated, but just as the pigmentation didn’t happen overnight, results won’t occur overnight either – after all pigmentation is usually the result of years of sun exposure or other triggers. For this reason, we offer our clients a plan of up to a year’s worth of treatment for optimal, long-lasting results.
*Epidermis + Sage has designed a skin membership for beauties dedicated to their skin health. The EVEN skin membership has been tried and tested with incredible results.