The garage master

Ollie Powrie has long hair and long limbs and occasionally rides a long board. For a long time, he’s also been making wine in his garage, writes UNO wine columnist Jess Easton, and they’re so good you’ll find yourself, well, longing for them.

photos Richard Brimer

Ollie Powrie’s party trick is that he makes wine in his garage. His passion, business venture and long-term lifestyle choice, meanwhile, is that he makes really, really good wine in his garage.

There’s a romantic adventurer in Ollie’s viticultural stylings. Together with wife Rebecca, and plenty of help from his two daughters, Ollie has been making wine in his garage since handpicking an abandoned row of Chardonnay more than 20 years ago.

That was a hobby for two decades, while studying viticulture and winemaking in Hawke's Bay, then eventually becoming chief viticulturist for Villa Maria Estate. It morphed into a business when Ollie and his family set up Chateau Garage in 2020, then a full-time gig when he left Villa Maria two years later.

He and his family spent seven months in Italy soon after, exploring a number of intriguing varieties and honing his craft even further, and those Old World experiences have added depth and character to the wines he conjures out of the back-blocks of Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne.

Barrels of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé and Syrah fill his old brick garage, resplendent with turrets, in Napier, where sampling delicious vintages becomes so much more personal and intimate. Fittingly though, for a free-spirited surfer brave enough to make great wine in his garage, Ollie is also open-minded about exploring varietals.

He’s the reason I'm now a complete Albariño convert; appropriately enough, Ollie was our first anointed ’Saint’ at Saint Wine Bar in Tauranga, where he showcased his latest venture, Albariño Brothers, a collaboration with fellow industry gurus Shaye Bird and Ant Saunders.

If you haven’t tried Albariño, you’re in for a treat. Exceptionally food-friendly, this understated Spanish/Portuguese white wine is like Kiwi summer in a glass. With all the brightness, light, zest and freshness of your favourite Chardonnay, it also has enough stone-fruit characteristics to appeal to Sav-drinkers, without throwing the whole floral fruit bowl at you.

Just like Albariño, you may be tempted to underestimate Ollie.  Serious wine people could dismiss the whole garage-winemaker concept as a novelty ploy.  Fair enough, until you learn he spent much of his Villa Maria career alongside Sir George Fistonich, the closest thing to Kiwi winemaking royalty that we have. It was Sir George, in fact, who first planted Albariño vines in the Hawke’s Bay.

And you’ll only underestimate Ollie until you try his wine. If making wine in his garage is a neat party trick, it’s one you’ll want to see repeated, again and again. 

Jess Easton is a director and owner of Kitchen Takeover and Saint Wine Bar, complementing her career as a Tauranga-based lawyer.