Coast to coast
A family road trip across the Waikato results in a long weekend full of fun, adventure and even a little romance.
A family road trip across the Waikato results in a long weekend full of fun, adventure and even a little romance.
Words Hayley Barnett Photos Hayley Barnett and supplied
When you’re based on the golden shores of Papamoa it can be hard to find holiday destinations to beat our everyday living. With that in mind, my family and I decide that swapping white sand for the wild, rugged West Coast’s black sand is all that’s needed for a change of scenery.
It’s been a while since I visited the little town of Raglan. So long that I really don’t remember much of it at all. These days, I have a seven and four year old in tow, along with a grumpy 44 year old, and road trips can be a bit more of a challenge compared to the old carefree days. There’s food stops and toilet breaks to consider, and if you forget the kids’ sick bags, you’ll spend much of the trip trying not to throw up yourself. Needless to say, you have to plan carefully.
To break up the trip, we would need some pretty good distractions, and what’s more distracting for children (and 44-year-old Lord of the Rings fans) than a village made for Hobbits?
Hobbiton
We’ve whizzed past the sign for Hobbiton many times, mumbling that we must get there someday. Now, I can’t believe we waited so long. This extraordinary movie set is designed with such attention to detail that it’s hard to believe Hobbits are only a figment of JRR Tolkein’s imagination. At 12 acres, the sheer size of the place is impressive. A tour takes two hours and consists of a 20-minute break at the famed Green Dragon Inn where you get to try the delicious Southfarthing beer or cider, made by local brewery Good George. The set is located on a vast sheep farm owned by the Alexander family, who themselves help to set the scene as you learn how director Peter Jackson came upon the site, how the village was set up and all the hilarious stories that unfurled during the creation of a giant hobbit hole in the middle of the Waikato. The kids are entertained and it’s a great way to incorporate a little hike into a lovely sunny day.
Alpino, Cambridge
If you haven’t been to Cambridge lately, chances are you’ll be surprised at how much it’s changed over the years. The once-sleepy township that you simply drove through, and perhaps stopped at for a sandwich, is now a thriving hub for serious shoppers and foodies. One particular jewel in its crown is Italian eatery Alpino, situated in the historic old post office building. We stop here for lunch on our way through to Raglan and sit under their shady umbrellas on the street, perfect for people watching and pretending you’re in some quaint Italian village. Easy to do when you’re enjoying authentic Italian food. I can vouch for the ravioli and the kids can highly recommend the almost-authentic-but-perfect-for-kids Hawaiian pizza (and free ice cream cones).
Waihine Moe Cruises’ Sunset Cruise
Lucky for us, Karl’s father is down from Auckland and visiting Raglan. As soon as we arrive, we promptly leave, taking off on a romantic sunset cruise and surprising Granddad and his partner with the delightful task of putting the kids to bed. The weather is perfect, the water like glass, and although the crew assures us the sunset is usually much better, we’re treated to a beautiful skyline of pink and orange hues. The cruise takes you south along the Raglan Coast and ends up gliding past the famous Pancake Rocks, while feeding you fish’n chips from Raglan Fish and offering beverages from a stocked bar. The captain educates on the history of the area and throws out some fun facts, including the prices of each mega mansion you can spot. It’s my kind of history lesson. And it turns out the cruise is just the relaxing experience we need to prepare for our big day ahead.
Raglan township
There’s something special about Raglan that attracts people from all over the world and, as a result, it offers an eclectic mix of shops, eateries, bars and galleries. Its tiny township is only made up of a couple of streets but they’re brimming with creativity on a Saturday morning. Some particularly recognisable ventures were born here, like Raglan Surf Co, Raglan Food Co and Raglan Roast, to name just a few. It seems attaching Raglan to your name will give it instant recognition as being part of a rapidly growing creative business hub. We take a walk around the shops and discover everything from quirky secondhand stores, to trendy gift shops like Florals and Finds and sophisticated designer clothing stores like Atamira.
Rock It Kitchen
Sitting on the bank of a stream is an old woolshed that offers perfect dining for families. The expansive lawn gives kids and dogs plenty of space to run about while you sip your wine on the vine-covered deck. It’s perfect for an extended family lunch. The food is to die for and there’s plenty to suit all tastes. I try the fresh new poke bowl and Karl devours the bao buns. This renowned cafe is located just outside of town. It’s easy to find on the same road that heads out to the surf beaches.
Raglan Rock
Karl and I leave lunch to head next door to Raglan Rock. Raglan is an outdoor adventurer’s dream and this newcomer to the scene specialises in rock climbing, canyoning and caving. While I’m keen to throw myself over a waterfall, Karl suggests what he thinks is a more leisurely pursuit - mountain biking. And so I find myself pedaling up a mountain on a humid summer’s day, wondering if he might be regretting his decision - not that I’d dare ask. Despite the weather, our fitness levels, and that mountain being more of a hill, the course (Te Ara Kakariki) is full of exhilarating twists and turns and it’s only down the road from the Raglan Rock base, where we picked up the bikes.
The Workshop Brewing team
Workshop Brewing
One of Raglan’s newest and fastest-growing businesses is a brewery located in an old trucking depot just off the main road in town. It’s only a short stroll from where we’re staying, so we ditch the kids (again) and stop in to see what all the fuss is about. Workshop is made up of a few local guys who got together to create some amazing beer. One of them, Matt Williams, describes their core philosophical principals as genuineness, quality, sustainability and creativity, and on our visit it’s evident that the boys have achieved all four. Matt takes us on a journey from his days living in Tofino, Canada, where the seed for the business was planted in his mind, to how fate threw the boys together once back in his hometown. Spoiler alert - they end up in an old workshop finally realising their combined dream of creating Raglan’s first local brew.
Offering a lager, a ‘Raglan’ pale ale and a particularly delicious APA, the team are quickly outgrowing their workshop and have plans to take over more space in the near future. You can check out their cute little bar once Covid restrictions are relaxed and cast your eye over some seriously cool artworks from a stack of local artist friends on display all around the brewery. It really is a feast for the senses.
Hamilton Gardens
When I suggest a visit to the gardens on the way home no one seems overly enthused. The weather is about to pack it in and everyone’s a bit tired from the weekend. But these aren’t just any gardens and I’m confident everyone will perk up once we enter the enchanting world that is Hamilton Gardens. And I’m right, of course. This free attraction is focused on the different types of garden design. There’s New Zealand’s first traditional Maori garden, the Japanese Garden of Contemplation, the Italian Renaissance Garden, and the kids’ favourite - the Surrealist Garden (aka Alice In Wonderland). You could spend all day floating through the 21 gardens - we only manage to get through six in an hour before hitting the cafe. I highly recommend staying for lunch after working up an appetite on a walk around the gardens. The menu is impressive and the food will definitely hit the spot for adults and kiddies alike.