Head-long, head strong
Rotorua downhill mountain biking star Lachie Stevens-McNab is representing both his town and his nation on the world stage, carrying with him a whole lot of local knowledge, skill and support.
Rotorua downhill mountain biking star Lachie Stevens-McNab is representing both his town and his nation on the world stage, carrying with him a whole lot of local knowledge, skill and support.
WORDS + PHOTOS Jamie Troughton
Earlier this year, Lachie Stevens-McNab finished 32nd in the elite downhill semifinals of the UCI Mountain Bike World Series in Italy. He was just 0.614secs from making the final. That’s not the impressive part. Set in the Italian Alps, the Val di Sole track is known as the ‘Black Snake’; they say there’s venom waiting on every fang-like rock that racers have to bounce over. It’s one of the hardest courses on the circuit, with riders reaching 65km/h as they drop 550m in altitude over the 2.1km distance.
Let’s set the scene a little more. Not only were the rocks lethal-sharp, they were also slippery thanks to a misty rain, ready to send the slightest mistaken line straight into the trunk of one of the most densely-packed pines lining the trail. At this level and at these speeds, the margin between triumph and abject disaster is infinitesimal. This round would eventually see 14 of the world’s best 160 riders fail to even finish.
Hang on – there’s more. Going into this season, the Union-sponsored rider had spent the best part of 18 months either injured or recovering. His 20-year-old frame was aching; he broke his back in 2022, while a lingering ankle injury suffered last year means he still struggles to run. Although he’d qualified 10th after the first run, in a small, dark corner of his brain is always the thought: ‘what if it all goes wrong?’.
And the punchline? Lachie Stevens-McNab completed all but the first 30-odd seconds of his 3mins 57.713secs semifinal run with no back brakes. He smashed his rear disc rotor just after the start, heading through the Trentino Rocks section, sending the pistons awry.
Anyone with even the slightest concept of physics should stop and think that through for a second. Most of us have been over the handle bars at least once in our lives but avoiding that fate, racing down a hazard-strewn mountain, making hundreds of split-second survival decisions, almost defies comprehension.
“To not have a back brake was so gnarly,” Lachie laconically muses. “I didn’t crash and got to the bottom but that was probably the hardest run I’ve ever done and there were definitely bits I should’ve stopped. It was so scary but I just kept going and tried to finish it.”
The Rotorua star has had much better results – a week earlier, he broke through for his first World Cup podium at the Austrian round in Salzburgerland, finishing third. A week before that, he was fastest on course in Poland, only to crash in his final run. And, as this edition went to press, the young tyro had just picked up his best elite world championship result in Andorra, the leading Kiwi in 16th spot.
But if we’re judged by our hardest battles rather than our finest, then his astonishing, headlong descent down a hill in the Dolomites is particularly revealing; the competitiveness, the desire, the unreasonable skill and the tenacity to keep going.
Those that have known the two-wheeled tyro for any length of time will just nod, sagely.
The eldest of three intrepid boys and the son of two dedicated parents, Lachie is, possibly above all, the product of an extraordinary environment. Halfway through his third year, there was the blonde tearaway caked in mud and diving into a soggy puddle at the bottom of the Skyline gondola in Rotorua, while the 2006 UCI World Mountain Biking Championships raged around him.
If ever there was an infusion of environment into character, this was it, as the sleepy geothermal town transformed into a genuine global mountain biking mecca.
So many things have shaped Rotorua into such an influential place for a young rider, starting with the volcanic, pumice-ridden terrain – they call it ‘aero-dirt’ – which drains rain so quickly and makes riding year-round so feasible. There are the sweeping hills funnelling into the town basin and, crucially, continued access granted by the iwi-owned forestry operation.
And then there’s the community. “We’ve been a real mountain bike town for a number of years, where most cars have a bike rack on the back or they’re utes with a pad over the tailgate,” long-time MTB enthusiast Dave Donaldson explains. “It's not down to any one individual – more a community that’s been inspired by the mountain biking lifestyle we’re lucky to enjoy – and it just gives me a warm feeling.”
The 73-year-old is a former president of the Rotorua Mountain Bike Club, a former policeman and former deputy mayor of Rotorua. With prodigious support from an enthusiastic committee and especially his wife Shreeve, he was a key figure in getting the world championships to Rotorua all those years ago.
“I’ve no doubt that event inspired a bunch of young locals, and Lachie
joins a long list of home-grown ambassadors for the sport here.” He points to current Rotorua-grown stars Tuhoto-Ariki Pene and Jenna Hastings, the likes of Louis Hamilton who, as an 11-year-old, was the ‘sweeper’ at the 2006 Worlds, and Tauranga-based former stars Jon Hume and Vanessa Quin.
BMX beginnings
Pretty soon after his 2006 mud exploits, Stevens-McNab was off on two wheels. Dad Steve – a veteran of the rafting and adventure sports industry – also loved a bit of motocross and as soon as his eldest ditched training wheels, he was fitted out on a 50cc Peewee motorbike.
Coming back from a ride one day, the inseparable pair passed the Rotorua BMX club track and young Lachie was entranced. Soon, he was spending every available hour there.
Even sooner, his desire to win came shining through. By six, he was a BMX world champion. By 11, he’d won three world titles and three runner-ups. Younger brothers Wyatt and Stirling followed him into the sport and Lachie became great mates with Rico Bearman, who has just competed in BMX at the Paris Olympics.
“Every day after school, he’d be asking to go to the track or the forest and I used to have to say no, just to give him a rest from his bike. It was just mad,” mum Kylee Stevens recalls. “He and Rico really pushed each other growing up, and it was awesome. BMX was amazing family time – every weekend, we’d be going somewhere different to ride and Lachie just loved it.”
Sporting DNA
Kylee has a decent sporting pedigree of her own. She spent 12 years in the White Sox, New Zealand women’s softball team, and her father was a tough-as-teak policeman – at one stage serving with Dave Donaldson – and 42-game provincial rugby flanker for Wellington.
From an early age, Kylee and Steve could see that their eldest son was built a little different. “We kept him busy because he was always so active. And he’s always been quite calculating, from a young age. He wasn’t fearless but he would quickly work out if he could do something or not.”
BMX fulfilled the racing urge for Lachie but eventually – inevitably – the Whakarewarewa Forest would come calling. “We went to my last world champs for BMX and the year after that was going to be in Columbia. I was beginning to understand how much money my parents were spending and I wasn’t sure I wanted them to keep spending if I wasn’t really into it. I got my first mountain bike when I was 13 and did my first race soon after and I just started riding more and more in the forest.”
He first conquered Taniwha – Rotorua’s iconic national downhill trail – as an 11-year-old and by his mid-teens, he’d morphed from a wide-eyed enthusiast to a fully-fledged competitor. He rode in the Oceania champs in 2019, won his first national title in 2020 (under-17) and added his first open national crown this year, as well as his first Crankworx Rotorua downhill title.
“I remember thinking, when I was racing juniors and was 10 seconds off the elite times, 'how on earth could I go 10 seconds faster?’ and all of a sudden, this year, I’m hitting those times.”
Riding the talent wave
One of his early heroes is now a friendly rival on the world stage. Brook Macdonald has been one of New Zealand’s finest downhillers in the past two decades, winning the 2009 junior world title in Canberra and accumulating World Cup podium finishes ever since.
“It’s been a long time since we have had such a wave of good riders come out of New Zealand but it seems like we’ve got more depth than ever, with riders like Lachie, who has had a breakout season and found form with consistent results and a podium along the way,” 32-year-old Brook says. “Kids are starting from such a young age and developing skills so quickly, and we have so much in the way of bike parks and facilities, which puts them in a spot of endless opportunity.”
The key to success, the veteran explains, is consistency – getting everything dialled coming into a season, with comprehensive testing and plenty of miles under the belt.
And that means staying injury-free, which in downhill racing is nigh impossible. Lachie estimates he’s broken more than 40 bones in his body over his racing career, mostly in his arms and wrists, though twin vertebra fractures in 2022 at the world championships in France highlighted how serious the sport can be.
“I hate watching,” his mum confesses. “I just feel sick until they’re down safe. There are huge consequences, going so fast down such a steep gradient, with so many trees, roots and rocks. Injuries are going to happen and you just hope they’re not going to be life-changing.”
That’s certainly influenced how Lachie rides these days. “I don’t try and throw the biggest whips on jumps these days – it’s not worth it – and the biggest thing is that when I’m playing these days, I’m not playing too hard. I’m not going to stop having fun on my bike but I don’t want to be having dumb crashes.”
It’s a level-headed approach from a 20-year-old but somewhat appropriate from one who can sense a big future. “I realised the opportunity I had a couple of years ago and I don’t want to throw that away. I try to make sure I’ve done the work and make sure there’s nothing I haven’t done. There is so much shit you can’t control but as long as I’ve done everything I can, what happens, happens.”
Weekend in the city
A girls’ getaway to the Big Smoke doesn’t disappoint.
A girls’ getaway to the Big Smoke doesn’t disappoint.
Having lived in Aotearoa’s largest city for many years of my adult life, I’m
no stranger to its amazing attractions. But, as a city does, Auckland seems to transform every time I return. New shops, restaurants and hotels pop up faster than an Intercity bus on Hobson Street at rush hour.
So when a friend suggested we leave our families for a weekend in the Big Smoke, I jumped at the chance. Shopping, cocktails, amazing food and great company – what more do you need from a girls’ getaway? Said friend arrived early on Friday to pick me up. In jumped two other tired mums, and we all miraculously mustered up the energy to head straight for the shops.
Sylvia Park
Sylvia Park is perfectly positioned for anyone south of Auckland. We pulled right in off the motorway in time for lunch at one of the many restaurants at the mall’s alluring food alley near the entrance. After some traditional Vietnamese pho – and some not-so-traditional cocktails – at Vietflames, we hit the shops. We only had a couple of hours to spare so prioritised all the major brands like Zara, H&M, Country Road, Decjuba and Gorman, as well as the two big make-up and skincare chains, Sephora and Mecca. Yes, we have a few of these in the Bay, but the bigger offerings provide far more variety and options.
Westfield Mall Newmarket + Nuffield Street
The next mall on the hit list was one I hadn’t visited in years. It may have just opened last time I was here, and boy has it changed. Newmarket’s Westfield Mall offers all your usual middle-of-the-road stores but also has great women’s clothing shops like Assembly Label, Sass and Bide, Seed Heritage and COS, as well as the high-end stores such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and the luxe department store David Jones, all of which I successfully avoided.
Three hours free parking gave us just enough time to get through the mall. The building is also perfect for kids with a covered playground, Event Cinemas and plenty of food options.
The top floor is dedicated to dine-in eateries, while the food court offers plenty of healthy food options, and your usual takeaway fare.
Of course, we had to get across the road to Nuffield Street too. A jewellery sale at Karen Walker had us standing outside in line for 20 minutes just to get a look at the new collection. Once we entered the store, free coffee and bowls of candy kept our energy and spirits up just enough to meander down the rest of Nuffield Street, to experience all its great offerings.
Ponsonby Road
Ponsonby has always been a boutique haven for shoppers, but since the addition of Ponsonby Central it now has the glue to hold it all together – and a pinpoint for the Uber to stop smack bang in the middle of the energetic suburb.
Still staying in line with the boutique-focused vibe, Ponsonby Central offers pop-up stores and cafés but also a vintage shop, a food market and Wallace Cotton, which remains a permanent fixture.
Across the road are two of my favourite stores – the Women’s Book Store and Mag Nation, and a bit further down is the famous Scotties Boutique and Zambesi. Of course you can’t go past Workshop and Karen Walker (again), and the many little vintage shops tucked between bars and cafés. I could stay here all day.
Commercial Bay
This new mall in downtown Auckland is obviously designed to cater for the harbour cruisers, but there’s a great amount of variety for your casual shopper here too. It has everything from H&M, General Pants and Lululemon, to Kiwi designer stores, Calvin Klein and Hugo Boss. There’s also some great eatery options with fine dining restaurants such as Ahi, PONI and a whole lot more upstairs.
STAY
QT Auckland
When looking for accommodation, QT Auckland suited us to a T. Centrally located between the Viaduct and Wynyard Quarter, the hotel is a short walk from the downtown shops and restaurants, and a quick Uber to Ponsonby, Parnell and Newmarket.
Its quirky decor is surprising when you walk in from the street. The 20-year-old repurposed office building still fits in with its commercial neighbourhood, yet the interior’s sophisticated character, combined with its avant-garde style, makes you feel as if you’ve travelled to Paris or Berlin. We were offered bubbles on arrival and invited to the rooftop bar where they were celebrating the addition of a new bubbly to their menu. We were planning to go straight up but were so impressed with our rooms that we decided to lounge around in them for a while beforehand.
EAT
QT Rooftop Bar
On our first night at the QT we didn’t even think about leaving the building. We headed up to the top level for a few drinks before dinner, which was booked down on ground level at Esther. The views at the rooftop bar are spectacular, and the cocktails went down a treat after a hard day of shopping. Sipping divine drinks while enjoying the stunning views of the Viaduct and Waitemata Harbour was just what we needed. The place was already packed at 5pm, and somehow got busier as the night wore on. This was obviously the place to be.
Esther
Fronted by top international chef, Sean Connolly, everything about this Mediterranean-inspired restaurant is designed to impress, especially the
food. The slow-cooked roasted lamb was a definite highlight, along with the Truffle Fonduta with ciabatta and black Perigord truffle.
Even breakfast is quite the international food journey with strong Middle Eastern, Asian and Spanish flavours to get us ready for another day of shopping. Dishes such as the Khach a Puri, Baked Shakshuka and Tortilla Espanola were a delight to the taste buds, enough energy for the body and offered just the right amount of stodge to soak up our cocktails from the night before.
Daphnes Bar Taverna
Keeping with our choice of old-timey-turned-trendy-named restaurants, we booked in at Daphnes in Ponsonby for Saturday night. The service was on par with the incredible food, especially when one over-excited friend accidentally flung a whole glass of red wine all over another friend’s newly purchased white Karen Walker blouse. The waiter was immediately to the rescue with laundry tips and expert dabbing. As well as the great wine selection, I would highly recommend the raw scallops,
oyster mushroom skewers and grilled chicken.
Turkish delight
Bridging Europe and Asia, Nicky Adams explores the melting pot that is Turkey.
Bridging Europe and Asia, Nicky Adams explores the melting pot that is Turkey.
PHOTOS Nicky adams + supplied
Throw Turkey into a travel conversation, and you’re sure to get an animated response. From those that looped it in on their OEs, to those who are fizzing to book their own trip.
Seen as a rite of passage for many New Zealanders, with the deep connection to Anzac Bay held dear, most Kiwis would admit to this being on the bucket list.
A land that offers diversity in spades, there is the multi-cultural pull of Istanbul, where east really does quite literally meet west, the opportunity to pay your respects at Anzac Bay, the magic of Cappadocia with its homes built into the hills and underground network, and stunning Mediterranean beaches. And this is just the tip of the iceberg.
Exploring the tunnels and caves of Kaymakli underground city.
I visited Istanbul over 20 years ago, and it was a revelation to look at the city again with a fresh perspective. The blend of cultures is something you can’t take for granted and was a real joy to see. Side by side Muslims and Christians rush around, and the city celebrates both faiths with a rich history. The landmarks are of course every bit as spectacular as they appear in the glossy pages of travel mags; yes, there are crowds and queues but time it right and you can get lucky. And it’s certainly worth the wait – the Blue Mosque is majestic, Hagia Sophia breathtaking, the Topkapi Palace a symbol of Ottoman splendour, and the Dolmabahce Palace (on the shore of the Bosphorus) the architecturally innovative ‘upgraded’ home to the Sultans from the 1800s. Walk through the Yerebatan Underground Basilica Cistern built by the Romans, a strangely beautiful attraction, mesmerising and eerie in equal measure. Meanwhile a trip along the Bosphorus by night lets you hear the beating heart of the city as it shimmers and shines in all its glory.
The balloons create a surreal day-break vista.
It’s hard to resist the most touristy of tourist attractions – a visit to the Grand Bazaar. This is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world dating back to 1453, and the icing on the tourist cake is a guided walk across the rooftop. Showcased in Skyfall, the James Bond movie where Daniel Craig shot across on his motorbike, you’ll find yourself balancing on teeny-weeny ledge ways high above the city, putting one foot tentatively in front of the other. Those with height issues would find this marginally stomach churning (no OSH here) – but the vista below is incredible. Both inside and outside the Bazaar are gazillions of tiny stalls with marketeers peddling their wares; some fabulous, some not so much. It’s hard to get out without having committed to a Turkish rug, which, if you do your research and buy from someone reliable, is potentially the purchase of a lifetime. If you don’t get a rug you have to at least buy the Turkish delight – these delicately flavoured jellies are addictive. The sweet shops are themselves an experience, rammed with ornate delights you’ll likely be regaled with stories of the Ottoman Emperors, the birth of boiled sweets and a million other things you never knew, while being pumped with Turkish coffee and baklava. This is a very hospitable nation.
The ancient, cobbled streets are bathed in baking sunshine but cooled by a breeze from the Baltic – ice cream vendors are everywhere, and pathways are peppered with tiny kittens and wide-eyed cats. Just as you wonder how they’re all so well fed, you see a passerby open their handbag and scatter cat food for these street dwellers. Feeding the strays is apparently a quirk of the city, but with the end game of keeping rats at bay – the Turks are no fools. The tradespeople and cab drivers are also always up for a bit of bartering – it doesn’t take long to get past the embarrassment of a good haggle.
Istanbul’s grand Blue Mosque.
Istanbul is a feast not just for the senses, but also the stomach. I chose
to do a walking food tour through the city; it was wonderful touring the back streets, where cafes are crammed into the narrowest lanes, serving Turkish tea to customers on slouchy sofas. Stopping at historic sights and trying every type of traditionally-made Turkish fare from breakfast eggs to spicy koftas and Doner Kebab, I was loving the rich, flavoursome dishes – until I was faced with the minced lamb intestines, at which point I became extremely squeamish. The older parts of Istanbul are captivating and sit alongside the newer flasher areas – as a city it certainly feels wealthy, and the lavish hotels reflect this – the tourists are as diverse as the natives. Staying at an international chain certainly offered every luxury – but came at a cost, Turkey is not the cheap country some remember from their backpacking days. It’s easy to get around, taxis are plentiful, but some run without meters so it’s worth having an idea of fare otherwise you’re fair game to be charged a very steep tourist rate. As a place with a turbulent past, it was heartening that everywhere you looked there was a strong police presence, and entrance to every hotel and mall involved a bag screen.
Moving on from Istanbul, an air-conditioned coach ride to Anzac Bay was an easy way to travel, and still allowed us to get there in good time to thoroughly immerse ourselves in the experience. It is so many things to so many people, and deserves the time spent walking along the beach and meandering through the gravestones, reading the inscriptions and thinking about the huge sacrifice and loss. It’s emotional on a different level, even if you have no direct link to the fallen soldiers. The on-site museum is also a place of reverence; nicely laid out to give visitors the opportunity to become engrossed in the moment.
Akbas Cemetery and Memorial honouring fallen Turkish soldiers during Gallipoli.
Travelling onto Cappadocia, a region of central Turkey known for its otherworldly landscapes, is to experience a different side to Turkey altogether. Soft volcanic rock formations amongst undulating hillsides feel closer to a film set than reality. Again, the history is at the forefront, as you weave through dusty streets, with houses, hotels, bars, and restaurants all burrowed deep into the rock face. Staying in a boutique hotel with rooms set high in the rocks, this felt luxurious, even though the room was reminiscent of something from The Flintstones. Of course, Cappadocia is home to the balloon rides – and as someone who visualised my time would be spent poolside with feet firmly on the ground, I was not planning on adding this to my ‘to-do’ list. Nevertheless, I dug deep, and I’m so glad that I did – the whole experience felt reassuringly safe; drifting cloudlike above beautiful dusty landscapes, the skies filled at sunrise with a fleet of colourful balloons was a natural as well as physical high. This area is peppered with ancient underground labyrinthine cities built by residents sheltering from invading forces, and for the non-claustrophobic, a tour through Kaymakli, the most historic of them all, is a must. Thought to date back to as early as the fourth century BC it’s insane to think whole communities lived self-sufficiently underground for years at a time – and even more crazy to think for some it was as recent as the second world war.
Istanbul’s Eastern and Western influences, create a dynamic city rich in history and culture.
If you want artisanal keepsakes, then this is the place to find them, as silver and local pottery are the artefacts to shop for in this part of Turkey. Ornate pieces are hard to resist, and there are plenty of manufacturing shops that mean you can be confident you’re buying the real deal. A visit to this area wouldn’t be complete without exploring the famous Fairy Chimneys. Located deep in the dusty hillsides, these natural marvels are simply incredible. Wandering among these distinctive landscapes, you can’t help but be awestruck at the natural wonders of this country.
The intricate vaulted ceilings of the Blue Mosque.
With temperatures that can reach heady heights, the beaches of Turkey are tempting, but can get crowded. Spring and Autumn are lovely times
to visit, especially if you want to do lots of sightseeing. In Turkey everything is diverse – from the landscapes to the cuisine – and it’s this that makes every step of the trip feel fulfilling and joyous. With an abundance on offer, it’s fair to say Turkey leaves you wanting more.
The secret garden
A whimsical wonderland lies hidden in Hamurana for storybook lovers of all ages to discover. With a story of her own, the creator has found freedom in its magic.
A whimsical wonderland lies hidden in Hamurana for storybook lovers of all ages to discover. With a story of her own, the creator has found freedom in its magic.
WORDS Hayley Barnett
If it wasn’t for a giant wooden carving of the majestic lion from Narnia sitting at the entrance to Jenna and Brent Austin’s farmyard property, you’d be convinced you were lost. Hamurana’s Enchanted Storybook Nook is hidden away in the back of what looks to be a rundown greenhouse with a small cabin attached.
“You can see people wondering what they’re in for when they arrive,” laughs Jenna, her long blonde curls contrasting against a black fur coat and bright red lipstick. She teeters on high heels as she walks across the grass to greet us.
It’s a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Jenna has just finished tidying up after a birthday party and is rushing back to the house to put her youngest child – one of four – down to sleep. I assume the get-up is part of a character for the party, but she wasn’t involved. This is simply how she dresses day to day, even on the farm, even with four children. Once you see the hidden garden for yourself, Jenna’s eccentricities suddenly make sense.
Just upon entering the small wooden cabin we’re amazed. Made to feel as if you’re stepping back in time, the beauty is in the details. There’s a reading nook and a secret entrance to the restroom, complete with a faux library wall. The large glass drink dispenser labeled ‘Drink Me’, with a tasty potion inside, is the perfect start to our trip into a literal Wonderland.
“The whole concept began in my mind the second I saw the space,” explains Jenna. “Brent and I discovered a hidden, abandoned shade house when we were viewing the property, before we bought it. I knew instantly it could be transformed into a secret garden. Brent suggested we turn it into a chicken coop, but by that point my imagination had already taken flight and planned the entire thing.”
Brent is a builder and agreed to build the cottage at the beginning of the shade house, which is where you enter the garden through the “Narnia wardrobe” – an antique wardrobe Jenna had bought years ago from Trade Me.
As a child, Jenna was captivated by the movie The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. “Discovering an entire world through an old wardrobe was beyond magical to me,” says Jenna. “I actually purchased that wardrobe with the intent of one day building a secret door behind it that entered into my own secret space whenever we found our forever home.”
Many of the layouts have changed and evolved since its inception but the one thing that remains the same is the yellow brick road which meanders through the entire garden. Fast-forward a few years to its near completion, you can now enter through the wardrobe into a snowy Narnia scene, complete with a lion and lamppost. From there the brick road leads you through all Jenna’s favourite books and movies as a child. Hansel and Gretel, Alice In Wonderland, Peter Pan, Mary Poppins, The Wizard of Oz – the list goes on.
“The whole concept really was just for me,” says Jenna. “I never intended it to be for anyone other than myself. Sure, I delighted in the fact that I could take my kids in there to have tea parties and for them to experience their very own wonderland in their backyard but that was by no means my goal. My driving force was my depression and constant need to get reprieve from the emptiness I feel on a daily basis.”
Jenna has suffered from depression and anxiety for most of her life, ever since she was diagnosed with anorexia at age 14. She was hospitalised four times, and although she’s won the battle with her eating disorder, the feelings associated with it have never really left her.
“I notice when I’m creating I’m immersed in the moment, and all the pain and negativity and the screaming chaos in my head almost ceases to exist. Creating a place full of all my favourite childhood books and movies felt so magical.
“It wasn’t that I wanted to escape into a different reality and be a little girl again. I can’t really explain it, so I typed into Google “nostalgia and healing” and this article came up that said ‘actively reminiscing on happy moments or joining in activities that are tied to positive memories can be emotionally soothing’.”
Jenna’s core memories from when she was a child were of tiny tea parties with her grandma, and the happiness she felt when watching her favourite movies. “I was able to revisit a time when life was calm and joyful and happy.”
When Jenna got started on the garden she commissioned her friend, artist Maria Hermans, to paint a storybook-inspired mural. “She went above and beyond and exceeded my expectations,” says Jenna.
Maria also struggles with mental illness and, over time, both Jenna and Maria gained a tremendous amount of positive focus and satisfaction from creating the garden together.
Maria continued to paint more and more, filling up the garden walls as the years went on. Sadly, Jenna’s grandmother, Gloria, passed away recently. In one of the murals, Maria used a photo of Gloria when she was 18 years old to depict her as Glinda, the Good Witch from The Wizard of Oz.
For Jenna, turning 40 this year has coincided with opening up the garden
to the public.
“I’m blown away at how something that simply started off as a personal passion project is now fast becoming a special destination for the young and old to visit,” she says. “I’m really starting to enjoy being able to share what is essentially the very essence of who I am, as well as the adversity I have overcome and am still to overcome. It’s not just a garden to me, and the outpouring of messages I’ve received proves it’s not just a
garden to others either. It really touches people and captures the nostalgia of their childhoods.”
Jenna points out there’s still space to extend the garden, but for now she’s content with allowing the public through and hiring out the space for the occasional party.
“I might look at hiring a fairy entertainer, so we can hold fairy parties,” says Jenna, who has hung up her own fairy wings for now. “Maybe I’ll focus on catering to the adults in a coffee cart.”
Book via Facebook Messenger: theenchantedstorybooknook
In full flight
Feel the need, the need for speed? Channel your Top Gun fantasies on this international-level adventure.
Feel the need, the need for speed? Channel your Top Gun fantasies on this international-level adventure.
words Cameron Scott
If we want a world-class flying adventure, Bay locals are lucky – we need only go as far as Tauranga Airport. Owned by international airline pilot Craig Mossman and his wife Annie, Fighter Jets NZ is one of just a handful of ventures globally that offer clients exhilarating rides in a rapid and nimble two-seater jet fighter, and as the only business of its kind in this part of the world, it is attracting thrill-seekers from here, there and everywhere.
Of course, the experience of a lifetime doesn’t come cheap, but it’s not something you’re ever likely to forget, and neither is it over in a flash. The actual flight, which lasts around 30 minutes or so, can be customised to suit you. It’s the high point of a two-hour adventure that begins at Fighter Jets NZ’s base at 15 Dakota Way, a lane next to the Classic Flyers Museum, just down the road from the airport terminal. Here, you’re given a detailed briefing about your flight, including all-important safety procedures, before being kitted out with a flying suit, helmet and life jacket. You’re also shown how your helmet works and how to strap yourself into your seat, so no time is wasted before take-off (the ejection seat has been disabled, in case you were wondering).
If you want to bring friends or family along to watch, you’re welcome, says Craig. The record so far belongs to a customer who arrived with 35 people in tow.
Fighter Jets NZ owner Craig Mossman.
Fighter Jets NZ operates three high-performance Albatros military trainer jets designed in Czechoslovakia. Craig purchased the 901km/h aircraft in the US, where they’d been “Westernised” for civil ownership after being sourced in the Ukraine and Russia. He bought the first 12 years ago and used it recreationally before launching Fighter Jets NZ in 2017. He later added to the fleet and put together a full support team when it became clear there was a demand for commercial flights.
Fighter Jets NZ also has an unusual side hustle – participating in war games exercises with the Royal New Zealand Navy. Our air force hasn’t had suitable aircraft for the task since the government disbanded the RNZAF Air Combat Force’s three squadrons of fighter jets back in 2001.
When you’re on board, you’re in the best hands; five international airline pilots share flying duties and two are former RNZAF Skyhawk fighter pilots. The ground crew includes a maintenance controller, a marketing manager and even a Japanese interpreter. As well as handling customer liaison, Annie also manages special events. As for safety, Fighter Jets NZ runs under the close scrutiny of the Civil Aviation Authority of New Zealand and is fully certified.
Passengers can choose from three adventures, among them a 30-minute Top Gun experience that’s aimed at adrenaline junkies and tailored to individual requirements. Craig describes it as “pretty intense”, as it involves a serious aerobatic routine, pulling hefty G-forces. Then there’s the similarly priced and timed Thermal Recon, involving a sightseeing visit to the Rotorua Lakes district (just five minutes’ jet-speed flying time away), with a celebratory roll or two thrown in on the way back.
If you like your flying action slightly dialled back, there’s the 20-minute Buzz & Break, which by all accounts is no less amazing and includes spectacular low-level flying over the lakes. And you needn’t worry about bad weather clouding any of these experiences, as flights are scheduled only for fine days.
Since the business took off, so to speak, there’s been steady demand from around New Zealand and further afield – and not one person has said they didn’t enjoy their flight, says Craig. Some go to extraordinary lengths to get their jet-fighter fix. Annie recalls two Japanese passengers, close friends, who flew to New Zealand with the sole purpose of flying in a fighter jet, making the return trip over a single weekend.
Jet flights make an out-of-the-ordinary birthday or special occasion gift – and if several people chip in, as often happens, the cost becomes quite affordable.
Gift vouchers also make a memorable reward for corporate staff or their clients. Craig says one company liked the idea so much, it bought four flights, and Fighter Jets NZ has flown up to 10 corporate customers in a single day. They’re flexible too. If you’re given a voucher for the Top Gun experience, for example, but aerobatics aren’t your thing, you can swap it for another option.
Videos are available, so you can vicariously share the fun with others, but almost anyone who’s reasonably fit and no more than 145kg can enjoy the experience. So far, the youngest passenger to fly with Craig and Annie’s team was 16, and the oldest a game 94.
As far as thrills go, a flight in a fighter jet might be the ultimate, but for those who prefer to get theirs on solid ground, the Tauranga jets take part in major airshows too. Flown by highly skilled US pilots, they were a highlight of last Easter’s spectacular Warbirds Over Wanaka event, which attracted a crowd of around 65,000 people over two days.
Twinkle toes
Liz French skied the slopes of Canada’s Sun Peaks and Big White resorts, and it made her feel like dancing.
Liz French skied the slopes of Canada’s Sun Peaks and Big White resorts, and it made her feel like dancing.
photos Liz French + Lindy Ellison + supplied
“Skiing is like dancing; the snow is your music,” said Olympic gold medallist Nancy Greene, who calls Sun Peaks home and is a wonderful ambassador. I was privileged to ski in a group with the woman named Canada’s female athlete of the 20th century in 1999 for her prowess and contribution to the sport.
Nancy’s 80 now, but she still skis like a teenager. She generously shared her story and tips for improving our skiing (“Stay on the balls of your feet”), taking us where we might not have otherwise gone – notably the ski cross course, on which you bounce over humps and race around well-cambered corners.
After a couple of cloudy but satisfyingly snowy days, Sun Peaks lived up to its name with bright blue skies and gloriously groomed pistes. My partner and I arrived there from Big White, which also lived up to its reputation as ‘Big Whiteout’. We had six murky days, but the payoff was snow you float through. It’s not like in New Zealand, where heavy cloud cover means skiing by braille. The trees provide definition and the wide, obstacle-free pistes instil confidence.
The slightly eerie feeling of skiing in the mist was enhanced by the sight of ‘snow ghosts’. Big White’s known for these trees on the upper slopes that get so snowbound they take on a sculptural form. To add to the sense of surreal, we went night skiing one evening. One long run is illuminated by lamps that throw pools of light on the snow, the patches of dark between them slightly disconcerting till you get the hang of it.
Members of Liz’s tour group - fast and furious meets sedate.
Skiing in Canada is delightfully different to skiing in New Zealand. Think long, wide, tree-framed pistes groomed to perfection, often with several centimetres of powder laid seductively on top. Sun Peaks has a signature trail, five miles (that’s 8km) from Top of the World to the base. The colder, north-facing side of the resort, Morrisey, has lots of glade skiing; on the south-facing side, Sundance and Sunburst have longer, sweeping trails. If Big White is whiting out, skiing the Black Forest side affords ample visibility. When the sky clears, it’s great to head to the Gem Lake area and the powder runs, most of which we skied without much visibility but with good guides.
The only queues we saw were on the main chairlifts when they opened in the morning, especially on a powder day. Most lifts allow skiers to take green (easy), blue (intermediate and so much fun) or black (advanced) trails down, meaning even amateur skiers can reach the top to enjoy the view.
We book our snow holidays through Auckland’s Ski Travel Specialists, and this year joined one of their group trips that come with the benefit of tour leaders. Ōhope couple Linda and Stephen Clews have been hosting ski trips for years and, as well as facilitating fun, share their knowledge of the fields. I mostly chose to ski with them, as they split the group into fast and furious (usually me!) and slightly more sedate skiers. We also took advantage of the snow hosts.
These usually retired, keen skiers volunteer their time to take visitors on tours of the fields they know and love. The ones we met said they enjoy Kiwis, who they find are usually game for anything.
Skiers need fuel, and both resorts offer a good range of eating, drinking (and shopping) options, though Sun Peaks’ village is more extensive than Big White’s. We even found good coffee, becoming regulars at the Tea Bar at Big White, and Bolacco and Vertical cafés at Sun Peaks. Costs escalate with tax and tips, but hey, you’re on holiday.
There’s plenty to do if you want a change from skiing or snowboarding. We could have gone ice skating, snow shoeing, tubing, sleigh riding, fat biking and axe throwing. I bowed to my partner’s desire to go snowmobiling and spent two hours squawking from the back seat as we shot along the trails, stopping to admire views and to thaw out at a warming hut also used by cross-country skiers. I much preferred dog sledding – sitting in a low-slung sleigh with a musher behind us to ‘steer’ the seven enthusiastic, well cared for canines swooping us along tree-lined trails and out to a frozen lake.
Skiing in Canada gives me a heady mix of ego-boosting snow and spectacular scenery, the adrenaline rush of gravity-enforced speed curbed and increased by skill, and the company of like-minded people. I can’t wait till I get to dance on snow again.
Rediscover Rotorua
This family-friendly geothermal wonderland just keeps getting better.
This family-friendly geothermal wonderland just keeps getting better.
words Stephanie Taylor
Growing up, I spent a lot of time in Rotorua with my family trout fishing and boating from the old Ohau Channel campground, before it was developed into a resort.
Luckily for my brother and I, our parents then went on to buy an old bach in Ngongotahā so we could keep the lake dream alive. Our love of the area only continued to evolve, with both of us taking up white water kayaking at high school and paddling the Kaituna River regularly.
It was all pretty idyllic, so unsurprisingly my partner Jeff and I jumped at the chance to take our own kids to Rotorua on holiday recently. But at two and four years old, we knew the trip would probably look a little different to my childhood adventures. With throwing them off a sea biscuit not yet an option, we took the chance to experience some of the area’s more wholesome, age-appropriate activities. Coupled with beautiful scenery and incredible hospitality, this city smashes tourism out of the water – for overseas visitors and Bay locals alike.
STAY
With 48 hours to spend in the city, Jeff, Donovan, Daphne and I stayed central at the Millennium Hotel Rotorua. Overlooking the steamy, geothermal end of Lake Rotorua, our rooms felt suspended over the incredible natural surroundings Rotorua is famous for. Our toddlers are morning people, which meant we were all lucky enough to watch the sunrise over the lake creating beautiful, changing scenes through the steam. One of nature’s shows that photos just don’t do justice.
The hotel location is right on the edge of the city centre within a brief stroll to some of our excursions. Free onsite parking, comfortable adjoining rooms, and a lush internal native garden to explore on the way to the breakfast buffet were some of our favourite family-friendly features. Special mention to the bottomless drip coffee at breakfast, and the friendly faces serving it!
Skyline Luge
EAT
Jeff and I were equal parts anxious and excited about this portion of the weekend. Managing our son Donny’s multiple food allergies had meant we’d never been confident enough to eat out as a family before. However, contacting restaurants in advance made us feel ready to finally give it a crack.
Pig & Whistle Historic Pub
Local landmark and crowdpleaser the Pig & Whistle was our first stop for dinner. Being a Friday, we really enjoyed being part of the lively pub atmosphere while still having enough room to move around the table and talk over the music. Seated fireside, Jeff and I enjoyed a selection of the not-so-small plates washed down with a couple of tap beers, while the kids happily devoured their first ever restaurant meals of steak, rice and veges. The amazing wait staff kept checking in on us and made it fun for everyone.
Capers Cafe + Store
Under the same ownership, Capers conveniently had the same chef on shift for our next night, meaning the kids’ dinners were pre-planned and again ran smoothly. In between eating they enjoyed watching a movie in the kids’ room, and with our table positioned just outside Jeff and I were able to enjoy our meals with a side of adult conversation. My nourishing Salmon Poke Bowl was cooked to utter perfection, and Capers’ extensive selection of desserts proved so tempting that slices of Biscoff Cheesecake and their famous Chocolate Mudcake may have made it back to the hotel with us.
Stratosfare Restaurant & Bar
Spoilt for choice once more, the incredible array of freshly prepared food at Stratosfare’s buffet lunch was seriously to die for. Jeff lived the dream and managed to eat his bodyweight in seafood, and we were personally visited by head chef Dan to ensure Donny’s needs were met. With stunning panoramic views of Lake Rotorua from our table and full puku, it was hard to leave, but with kids champing at the bit to get lugeing we eventually tore ourselves away.
Okere Falls Store
Even though our epic escape was coming to an end, I was excited for lunch on the way home at a personal favourite – the Okere Falls Store. Daphne and Don made fast friends to explore the beer garden with, while Jeff and I chatted with locals over a yummy Avo Smash and Grilled Cheese Toastie. With its outdoorsy, community feel, we could have very easily settled in for the afternoon, especially with the largest selection of craft beers in Rotorua on offer.
Rotorua Duck Tours
PLAY
Skyline Rotorua
Luge riding has definitely gone up a notch since my last rodeo! With lit up tunnels, branching tracks and towering dinosaurs, three runs on the Skyline Rotorua Luge went by super fast and left us wanting more. These days there are five tracks and two chairlift lines – which also meant lines were never long, even on a busy Saturday. We were surprised that even two-year-old Daphne absolutely loved it, and neither kids were scared at any point including on the gondola rides – another highlight for spotting rabbits, deer and impressive downhill mountain bikers.
Redwoods Nightlights
Daphne was, however, a little dubious at the Redwoods Nightlights, unfortunately. The suspended bridges moving underfoot weren’t her cup of tea, so while the boys took to the heights Daph and I enjoyed the atmosphere from down below. Which was actually really fun in itself, like being at Disneyland at night time. With sounds and voices all around, there was a cool 3D projection to watch while we waited for the boys, who returned with stories of incredible illuminations amongst the stunning redwoods. We’ll definitely be back once Daphne’s a bit older.
aMAZE me
Polynesian Spa
As a long time visitor of the Polynesian Spa, but first timer in the family pool, I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed it. At 33 degrees, the supervised large pool features a small hydroslide, a shallow toddler section and a deep end. There’s a couple of small hot pools too, but the temperature of the main pool was all we needed for a fun family splash. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good hot swim as much as the next person. But getting drained of energy when you’ve got toddlers is not a vibe.
Rotorua Duck Tours
Speaking of relaxation, Rotorua Duck Tours lulled both kids to sleep at different points. The ex-military trucks are pretty bumpy and loud, creating ideal napping conditions. But with tour guide Olly cracking corny jokes and fact dropping at any given opportunity, Jeff and I were thoroughly entertained throughout and enjoyed learning about the area from a tourist’s perspective. And what better way to sightsee in a lake region than from a WW2 amphibious vehicle? It took us around the Rotorua lakefront, and out and on to the Blue Lake as well as Lake Ōkāreka.
Agrodome Farm Show and aMAZEme
We spent our final morning in Rotorua at the legendary Agrodome Farm Show and aMAZEme, both of which are really suited to young families. What kid doesn’t love a farm animal? Especially when there’s multiple bustling about on stage, and plenty of opportunities to touch and interact with them. Both attractions had amazing play areas for kids and we could have spent an entire day between the two. Thanks to Donny and I, some members of the family managed to complete the maze successfully while others didn’t quite have the patience.
Winter on Waiheke
The phrase “on island time” may seem incongruous as wet weather approaches, but Waiheke Island offers the perfect – alas, temporary – escape from winter woes.
The phrase “on island time” may seem incongruous as wet weather approaches, but Waiheke Island offers the perfect – alas, temporary – escape from winter woes.
words Hayley Barnett
It’s widely known that Waiheke Island is the place to be during the summer months, but many are unaware of the island’s lure during the cooler season.
Over winter Waiheke transforms into a different kind of wonderland, with vineyards displaying stunning autumn colours and fewer crowds, providing visitors with more intimate experiences.
With a bit of help, it’s easy to get around the world-class wineries, and if you can find a good place to hunker down when the weather gets bleak, then you’ve found yourself the ideal winter island getaway.
Omana Luxury Villa
Located at Woodside Bay, Omana Luxury Villa boasts breathtaking panoramic views, a private beach, and offers all the modern amenities required for a luxury hideaway.
Upon entering the spacious apartment, it was immediately apparent that relaxing and unwinding are of the utmost importance here. Within 10 minutes of our arrival I was making use of the oversized bathtub while enjoying the view and precariously balancing a glass of Thomas Estate blanc de gris on the side.
The floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the stunning natural beauty surrounding the apartments. Each villa has been given a name – Serenity, Haven, Surrender, and Joy – to reflect the type of experience the owners hope their guests will have during their stay.
The super king bed is perfect for snuggling up and watching movies, which is just what we did for an entire afternoon and night one rainy day – although watching a storm roll by through the huge windows is entertainment enough.
The dining table and kitchenette containing all the necessary appliances allowed us to stay cooped up in luxury, without the need to leave.
When the sun finally came out the following day, we ate breakfast on the private terrace overlooking the incredible views of the rolling hills and water. Each morning breakfast is delivered to your door and includes an omelette, croissants, granola, and fresh fruit with orange juice. Each apartment is equipped with a coffee machine that takes the finest Waiheke beans, so there’s no need to even venture out for a coffee.
Casita Miro
Tour Waiheke
Graeme from Kiwi Connect Tours picked us up right on our doorstep the day after our arrival at Omana. His large-yet-economical and environmentally friendly electric vans make for a comfortable, relaxing journey around the winding hills of Waiheke. And his well-informed chat kept us entertained as he ferried us from vineyard to vineyard. Graeme has been living on Waiheke since 2019, just before the first COVID-19 lockdown decimated his tuktuk business in Auckland. The move to green vehicles was a genius move on Graeme’s part, as much of the island’s population has long been an environmentally conscious community. Since starting the business, Graeme has adapted to island life well, knowing the best places to go and the history behind each winery.
Casita Miro
Our first stop is one of the trendiest vineyards – Casito Miro – to indulge in a wine tasting. At 10am it did seem a little early to start on the vino, but I wasn’t complaining. The Spanish-style building immediately transports you to Barcelona with its Gaudi-esque mosaic design. With the vines stretched out below you as you sample each of Casito Miro’s best wines, you’d be forgiven for believing yourself to be somewhere far beyond in the Mediterranean. Though they do make amazing wines here, it’s the tapas that attracts the foodies. The goat’s cheese croqueta and patatas bravas are menu must-tries.
Batch
Next it was on to Batch, where the young, hip vibe was immediately apparent. Three hens’ dos and posters advertising its summer festivals were the first two giveaways. As we were guided through to the cellar door, a young Frenchman gave us a rundown on what makes Batch so unique. His passion and knowledge for wine was impressive and infectious.
By the time we swayed unsteadily out towards the restaurant for lunch, we felt we were already well-educated wine connoisseurs and looked forward to critiquing our wine matches with lunch.
Cable Bay
Perched atop a hill overlooking Auckland City is the highly reputable Cable Bay.
I have vague, fond memories of spending my 30th here for lunch just over 10 years ago. Not much has changed other than the layout of the restaurant and the menu but, as the saying goes, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Here, we’re treated to a vineyard tour and tasting. The first vineyard was built here in 1998, and today the business has expanded to include the winery, olive groves, organic gardens, two restaurants, event spaces, a cellar door and an expansive outdoor lawn area.
Tantalus Estate Vineyard
Returning home to our villa in the early afternoon after Cable Bay, sheets of rain swept into our island cove and we spent the rest of the day hunkered down watching movies.
Thankfully, it was the rain that saved us from a brutal hangover the next day. We had enough energy reserves to head out to Tantalus Estate before catching our ferry back to the city.
The estate prides itself on using local New Zealand ingredients where executive chef Gideon Landman experiments with bold flavours and textures. We were treated to the Tantalus “Trust The Chef” lunch, which consists of six courses and what seems to be never-ending welcome snacks (not that we were complaining).
The taste and presentation of each dish was exquisite and we were soon on the edges of our seats waiting for each course to arrive.
We waddled out of there fully satisfied and somewhat surprised that we had just experienced one of the best meals of our lives.
Making it back in time for the ferry, we sadly farewelled our temporary island home, right before the rain clouds set back in.
Paradise found
Aitutaki’s crystal-clear waters and relaxed vibe isn’t just for honeymooners. It’s what makes Rarotonga such a must-visit destination for Kiwis.
Aitutaki’s crystal-clear waters and relaxed vibe isn’t just for honeymooners. It’s what makes Rarotonga such a must-visit destination for Kiwis.
words Cameron Scott
There’s much more to the Cook Islands than Rarotonga, the colourful tropical island which, thanks to its international airport, use of New Zealand currency, and excellent tourist infrastructure, draws most of the Kiwi visitors to this far-flung tropical paradise.
This tiny South Pacific country is actually made up of 15 islands with a total land area of just 240 square kilometres, but scattered over a mind-boggling two million square kilometres of Pacific Ocean – from isolated Penrhyn in the north, to cooler-climate Mangaia in the Southern Group.
Of all the outlying islands, Aitutaki tops the list for visitors wanting to explore more of what the Cook Islands has to offer. This languid tropical paradise covers an area of just 18.05 square kilometres, but there’s certainly no lack of things to do or see – and plenty of opportunity to abandon your cares and relax on a pristine beach beside one of the world’s most spectacular lagoons.
Some first-time visitors to the Cook Islands organise their flights to catch a quick connection to Aitutaki shortly after their arrival in Rarotonga. But I’d recommend first spending a couple of days in Rarotonga to get used to the balmy Cook Islands weather and experience a little of the 32km-diameter island’s many cultural and scenic attractions. For a quick taste of Aitutaki, a day trip with Air Rarotonga is also highly recommended and will surely inspire a longer return visit.
Home to just 1800 people, Aitutaki is even more relaxed and laid-back than Rarotonga, retaining much of its authentic charm. The low-lying atoll itself has 15 islands (only one is inhabited), and its spectacularly vast and gorgeous lagoon is surrounded by a protective reef.
Aitutaki has an excellent selection of accommodation to suit all budgets and, in general, is warmer and sunnier than Rarotonga, with a better chance of blue skies. And while it is small, you’ll find no shortage of beautiful, private beaches fringed with coconut trees. There’s also plenty of things to do, most of them naturally involving water activities.
You’ll arrive at Aitutaki Airport, a former WWII airfield located at the triangular-shaped island’s northern point. The island’s largest village, Arutanga, is on the west side.
PLAY
Of all the things to do on Aitutaki, exploring the lagoon and its islets is the best. Go kayaking from a secluded white sand beach or join a boat tour and visit One Foot Island, where you can have your passport stamped at the world’s smallest post office. There’s some of the finest snorkelling you’ll find anywhere, in pristine waters teeming with colourful tropical fish. At night, enjoy an island night cultural show with a traditional umu (the island equivalent of a hangi) feast and Cook Island dancing. It’s also an essential part of the Aitutaki experience to meet some of the friendly, fun-loving locals and visit the oldest church in the Cook Islands, built of coral and limestone in Arutanga village in 1823. A good way to learn the history and culture of the island is to take a guided tour, or simply hire a scooter or bicycle and explore at your leisure.
Wet & Wild Water Tours
Wet & Wild Water Tours offer boat charters, a water taxi, kite and wake boarding, tube riding, water skiing, fishing and spearfishing, whale-watching, sightseeing and much more. Humpback whales pass near Aitutaki on their migratory path from July to October.
Bishop’s Cruises
Famous for its well-organised lagoon cruises, offering a truly memorable experience, Bishop's Cruises also specialise in organising spectacular weddings on One Foot Island. Whatever you want to do, they’ll take care of every detail, making your big day ultra-special.
Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish
If fishing is your thing, Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish offers full and half-day guided fly fishing adventures on the Aitutaki lagoon, targeting bonefish and trevally. The bonefish are big, averaging 28 to 30 inches, while the trevally are guaranteed to put up a big fight.
Aitutaki Day Tour
At the top end of the scale, Island Hopper Vacations offer an exclusive Aitutaki Day Tour which includes return VIP airport transfers on both Rarotonga and Aitutaki, return private jet flights, a private tour of Aitutaki and a private boat charter and lagoon cruise, with a special buffet lunch on an uninhabited motu (island).
Pacific Resort Aitutaki has won awards for its luxurious accommodation and superior service.
STAY
Pacific Resort Aitutaki
The spectacular award-winning Pacific Resort Aitutaki offers 29 luxurious bungalows and villas with wide views across the lagoon. Indulge with a massage at Tiare Spa or grab a kayak or stand-up paddle board to explore the lagoon waters. The only member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World in Aitutaki, the resort welcomes guests aged 12-plus.
Tamanu Beach Resort
On the eastern coast of Aitutaki, Tamanu Beach Resort has relaxed Polynesian-style bungalows and is right on the beach in Amuri village. The resort has two wings, one for adults only and the other for families. On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 6.30pm, the resort hosts a special feast featuring delicious local food as well as the
island's traditional singing and dancing.
Rino’s Aitutaki Beach Apartments
At the affordable end of the scale and offering
all the essentials for a relaxing holiday, Rino's Aitutaki Beach Apartments has a selection of cozy self-catered beach apartments a few steps from the beach.
Aitutaki Beach Villas
With just four private, self-contained beach bungalows, this tranquil spot is ideal for everything from honeymoons to family getaways. Set beside a safe and beautiful beach, it’s also an easy walk from the island’s larger hotels, restaurants and shops.
The freshest of seafood features on the menus of most Aitutaki restaurants and cafés.
EAT
Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant
Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant offers a true Pacific Island dining experience with delicious foods and friendly, island-style hospitality. Nestled on the beach beside Aitutaki's sensational lagoon, this a la carte restaurant has a good selection of Pacific Island cuisine along with a Western favourites and opens seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
tamanubeach.com/restaurant-bar
Avatea Café
Boldy staking claim to “the best food in Aitutaki,” the family owned Avatea Café is located in Tautu and is known for its laid-back outdoors atmosphere and friendly service. The well-presented food ranges from crepes and coffee for breakfast, to sashimi pizza and the café’s famous fish curry and homemade naan bread for dinner. After a day exploring the lagoon, their Aitutaki Brewery beer is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner every day except Sunday.
The Boat Shed Bar & Grill
A reliable destination for good drinks and seafood for lunch or dinner, this popular establishment offers wonderful views of the lagoon and beyond. The menu includes Japanese sushi platters, sashimi plates, chicken teriyaki, and local seafood dishes. If you’ve had a successful day’s fishing, the chefs are happy to cook your catch. The children’s playground is a plus – as are the well-priced cocktails
Mango Take Away Aitutaki
If you’re looking for a good meal on the go, you’ve found it right here. Mango Take Away in Amuri is handy to some of Aitutaki’s main resorts and hotels and serves up a delicious selection of pizza, pasta, burgers and Asian dishes, as well as cakes, pastries and desserts. You can tell how good this unassuming little establishment is by the number of locals who visit.
cookislands.travel/supplier/mango-take-away
Getting there
Aitutaki is the ideal place to shake off the stresses of modern-day living and escape the chilly depths of a New Zealand winter. Air Rarotonga flies a jet-prop Saab 340B Plus aircraft from Rarotonga to Aitutaki up to five times daily. You can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.
The cruising Kiwis
From personal tragedy was born an incredible oceangoing journey, with this intrepid family following their hearts – and their sense of adventure – circumnavigating the globe.
From personal tragedy was born an incredible oceangoing journey,
with this intrepid family following their hearts – and their sense
of adventure – circumnavigating the globe.
words Liz French | photos Jon Nash, Ivan Hamill + SV Selki
Declan, Ivan, Rachel and Rob dressed for the Australian beaches.
Circumnavigating the world on your catamaran is a massive adventure. It has been normal daily life for the Hamill family of five (six counting the cat) for the last five years. The backstory, and one reason for it, is a devastating event that has been forever woven into the fabric of Rob Hamill’s life.
Whakatāne-born Rob was 14 when the family lost contact with his older brother Kerry, known to be sailing in Southeast Asia. In 1978, when Rob was 16, it was confirmed that Kerry’s yacht had been ambushed in Cambodian waters by the Khmer Rouge and that he and a crewmate (the third shot during capture) had been held in the notorious Tuol Sleng prison in Phnom Penh, tortured, forced to sign false confessions, and murdered.
Kerry with his girlfriend Gail aboard the Foxy Lady with her freshly painted eyes in
Phuket, Thailand.
Knowledge that could have stymied Rob Hamill has, if anything, impelled him forward. Rob represented New Zealand in rowing for 16 years, winning a silver medal at the World Rowing Championships. He rowed in the Atlanta Olympics and may be best known for when he and crewmate Phil Stubbs won the 1997 inaugural Atlantic Rowing Race. Rob wrote a book, The Naked Rower, about this. He also made a documentary, Brother Number One, based on the quest for resolution for Kerry. His magnetism as a raconteur made him a popular fixture on the speakers’ circuit.
While the desire to retrace his brother’s journey was clearly a catalyst to set sail, it’s obvious this is a man with intrepid adventure in his DNA. He’s proud that his wife Rachel and sons, 22-year-old Finn, Declan (19), and Ivan (16), plus the cat, fully embrace it.
They bought Javelot, a 43-foot Fountaine Pajot catamaran, in Whangārei in 2014. It had been sailed out from Belgium and required maintenance before the family could make their first foray out of New Zealand. They honed their skills with several months of Pacific Island sailing. Rachel was new to sailing and recalls a particularly gruelling trip to Tonga as the only time she just wanted off.
Javelot, the Hamills’ floating home seeing out the day at Queensland’s, Double Island Point.
They departed on their circumnavigation of the globe in October 2018, making it to Darwin where Kerry had originally sailed from in 1977. When COVID-19 kept them in Australia, they discovered a captivating coastline, the Kimberley region in Western Australia a highlight. Being hit by lightning off the Gold Coast was the lowlight with thousands of dollars of electronics decimated.
Watch the Hamill boys on YouTube (“Kiwi Boys”) to see how they are revelling in having the world as their playground and classroom. You see the fearless three leaping off the catamaran, shimmying up rigging, and swimming with whale sharks. Declan, referred to fondly as “EMC” (the Expendable Middle Child,) cutting free a craypot that got stuck around their rudder. Eldest son Finn freediving to near disaster. All exploring wherever they are mooring. “They react calmly and rationally to every situation and show emotional intelligence way beyond their ages,” says their father, confident the lessons in resilience learned at sea will serve them well.
Finn was pulled from the depths by his father and brothers following a free diving blackout (re-enactment).
Finn is off the yacht often in his quest to row in the Paris Olympics this year, having already gained Silver in the Under 23 World Champs and competed in the men’s lightweight single at the World Championships in Serbia.
Their route has so far taken them from Darwin up through Indonesia, including Ende on the island of Flores that Kerry had reported visiting. Then to Malaysia and Thailand. Future fluid plans include sailing up to the Mediterranean and on to the Caribbean before returning to the Pacific via the Panama Canal.
Finn, Declan, Rob, Rachel and Ivan at Cambodia’s magnificent Angkor Wat.
The Hamills have felt the pull of Southeast Asia, where they experienced nothing but friendship and kindness, felt very safe and lapped up the local street food. “It goes against all our accepted food prep rules, yet we ate it for months and never got ill,” says Rob while admitting that drinking dodgy water did him in. They have also made friends with fellow yachties from all over the world. “The Kiwi flag is a positive thing.”
The longer passages have proved challenging as they involve overnight sailing. The family takes turns at being on watch and Rob says he is always hyper alert for any natural or man-made threats. Technology is the other challenge, as it is vital for navigation and communication. Lose it or, worse still, your phone (which has happened), and it can take forever to regain all the apps and information on which life at sea and in a myriad of different countries depends.
Because thousands are vicariously voyaging with them via their YouTube channel, “The Cruising Kiwis”, they make a commitment to post an update every Sunday. Rachel spends hours editing and collating the weekly videos of a family living their best (and occasionally worst) lives. Watch them and share what she describes as the privilege of being “strangers in strange lands”.
Out of the surf
Whangamatā's biggest attraction might be one of New Zealand’s best beaches, but did you know it’s also the perfect spot for a weekend adventure all year round?
Whangamatā's biggest attraction might be one of New Zealand’s best beaches, but did you know it’s also the perfect spot for a weekend adventure all year round?
Salt District Brewing
A small idea that started in a garage in Whangamatā a few years ago has quickly gained traction among locals and travellers alike. With everything falling into place, Salt District Brewing now has a cellar door located in town. Open Thursday to Saturday, you can sample the brews, which are all made on site, and transport the suds back home in a Salt District flagon (glass amber growler). You can now find the beer in Whangamatā at over six different cafés and restaurants. The team are passionate about their product, their town and community, and aim to stay hyper-local, hosting regular small events. Keep an eye out for Salt District cans at selected retailers soon.
Whangamata Ridges
Five minutes from the township on State Highway 25, Whangamatā Ridges is a mountain bike park with a difference. It suits everyone, from beginners to experts, with grade two to five trails. There's a fun single track, plenty of downhills and climbs, and the trails offer incredible views of the ocean and forest, cleared forest terrain and native bush.
Camina
Camina is a restaurant that honours the ancient bond between humans and fire. A celebration of owners Barend and Rowan's shared passions for food, music and community, the restaurant uses locally sourced ingredients cooked over the open fire as a way of recreating the experience of sharing stories, warmth and the simplicity of eating together. With a Spanish and North African influence, the menu and wine list is ever-changing with the seasons.
Bella Design
Located on Whangamatā’s main road, Bella is a gift and homeware store offering a carefully curated selection of quality gifts and homewares catered to a slow beach life and bach aesthetic. From accessories and fashion to gifts, lighting and furniture, Bella is one of those stores that needs to be experienced to be believed.
Palm Pacific Resort & Motel
Nestled in the vibrant heart of Whangamatā lies Palm Pacific Resort & Motel — a haven of modern two-bedroom apartments amid a tropical oasis, with established facilities for all guests. Experience the convenience of town-centre living, where every amenity, café and golden-sand beach is just a leisurely stroll away. With a children's playground next door, your perfect coastal escape awaits. Palmpacificresort.com
(Re)Built to enjoy
Christchurch is like the adventurous and fun friend everyone needs
Christchurch is like the adventurous and fun friend everyone needs.
Words Jenny Rudd / Images supplied
Starting over again after everything’s fallen apart takes grit. Marian Johnson, CEO of Ōtautahi Christchurch’s Ministry of Awesome said that the city had a choice to just rebuild what they’d lost, or go for gold and reimagine where they want to live. Christchurch is shaping up to be a seriously special city in our beautiful country.
Te Pae Convention Centre
A brand new, futuristic curve of reflective metal and glass features 43,000 herringbone tiles, a nod to the region’s braided rivers. The centre buzzed with life on our visit. Tourists and locals filled the space as they meandered through art exhibitions and a television crew was set up
in the entrance interviewing delegates to a conference. Puamiria Parata-Goodall says, “The ancestral bones of Ngāi Tahu are in this land. The new Ōtautahi reflects both its Ngāi Tahu and European history. Māori language, art, and stories are recognised and celebrated like they haven’t been before. My ancestors have their voice back again in our landscape.”
Murals
Huge bangs of colour, life and passion are spread across the raw faces of buildings throughout the CBD. Art says something words can’t. It gives the city warmth, and is an indication of where they are headed. There’s a sense of purpose and fun that made us feel like we wanted to stay there and be part of it.
Mount Dobson
No trip to the South Island is complete without a trip to Mount Dobson (that’s the word from my teens, anyway). This year the mountain’s season straddled both school holidays in July and October, making for an elongated season at the warm end, with great snow and sun in the sky. It’s about two-ish hours from Christchurch, making it a good overnight detour, especially if you bunk down in Fairlie near the bakehouse and its famous pies.
Ministry of Awesome
Does everything it says on the tin. The output of MoA is world-changing startups, solving every kind of global problem you can imagine. And it’s led by the indomitable Marian Johnson, who’s leading the charge to put Christchurch on the global map. We were invited to the demo day event at the end of Electrify Accelerator, where 20 female-founded startups had been working to grow their businesses over 12 weeks, and then pitched to a room full of the country’s top investors.
She Is Not Your Rehab
One of the startups that has been through the Ministry of Awesome’s programme. Conversations between founder Matt Brown and clients in his barbershop to help men break the cycle of abuse they have been born into, has spawned a whole movement. Matt and his wife Sarah have set up an art gallery in the CBD, where you can get a limited edition print of a piece of artwork by Tauranga’s Mr G. You can also get married there; Sarah is a celebrant! This couple are determined to change the world by healing our tāne and break the cycle of generational physical and sexual abuse.
The tram
We didn’t have a car with us, as it’s a short Uber ride into the city, and why drive when you can take the tram!? Kōrero about Christchurch’s history, the rebuilds post-earthquake, and the cultural landscape of the city gave us a local’s view of the city. We bought an all-day ticket, and rode round the circuit a couple of times. If you can get a reservation, The Tramway Restaurant looked extremely fun!
Riverside Market
We didn’t cook a single meal in Christchurch. As soon as we discovered this market, there was no mental space for anything else. The list of must-tries in here is as long as my arm. On day one I barely got through the entrance before I was eating a dosa crammed with fragrant chicken curry. I pushed it all down with a beesting. Oh. My. Word. A brioche, soaked in honey, stuffed with a mascarpone custard and sprinkled with flaked almonds. Thank goodness the tram was outside. I needed a moment before walking again.
California dreaming
Catherine Sylvester and her family escaped the Kiwi winter for a scenic coastal road trip in sunny California, hitting up the best the Golden State has to offer along the way.
Catherine Sylvester and her family escaped the Kiwi winter for a scenic coastal road trip in sunny California, hitting up the best the Golden State has to offer along the way.
The Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
Four weeks, one state, multiple Costco lunches with mostly fabulous weather, and I can safely say we love California. Flying into San Francisco and departing from Los Angeles meant renting the biggest car I’ve ever seen, and hundreds of miles covered in between.
First stop: San Francisco. Steep streets, Mrs Doubtfire, the Summer of Love and the painted lady houses of Full House fame. The presence of two iconic structures looms large over this northern California city – the Golden Gate Bridge and former prison Alcatraz. Both are situated over the harbour – one a conduit of movement and travel, the other an insurance against it. We tackled both with equal enthusiasm.
Golden Gate Bridge
Hiring bikes in town, we cycled along the waterfront in beautiful sunshine, pulling off jumpers and reapplying sunscreen. Upon reaching
the bridge, we entered a low-hanging, chilly cloud, causing the rapid redonning of clothing. Such is San Francisco. To the accompaniment of harbour fog horns, we made our way across the bridge and onto the adorable tourist town of Sausalito for burgers and ice creams back in the sunshine before the ferry ride home.
The island of Alcatraz.
Alcatraz Island
Make sure you book well in advance for Alcatraz as tickets sell out fast. We took the first ferry of the day, which was wise, as the island fills up steadily with tourists. A self-guided tour through the former maximum security federal prison allows you to move at your own pace and get all the photos you like. A fascinating look at a self-contained island and penitentiary that was home not only to some of America’s most notorious criminals, like Al Capone and The Birdman of Alcatraz, but hundreds of guards, employees and their families.
Locked up at Alcatraz.
The gift shop at the end of the tour meant books for the road for me, written by those who grew up on the island, detailing their quite normal lives in a quite unusual setting.
El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a 3000ft climb from base to summit.
Yosemite National Park
Depending on road conditions, the drive to Yosemite takes around four hours from San Francisco, and the scenery is stunning.
We stayed in cabins at Thousand Trails Yosemite Lakes and felt very Bear Grylls as we roasted marshmallows for s’mores over an open fire. Although there was no foraging for bear droppings or whatever it is Grylls dines on, we still felt quite rustic.
Squirrel, chipmunk and deer sightings were big winners with our kids, though I did face a conundrum when a cute skunk sidled up to the campfire. How to move it on without alarm, thereby causing the release of its bespoke odour? Thankfully, a quiet “Shoo!” and soft clap of the hands did the trick.
California Tunnel Tree, Mariposa Grove, with a hole cut in 1895 to allow horses and buggies to pass through.
Emerging from Tunnel View into Yosemite National Park itself is breathtaking. Heavy snows last winter meant waterfalls were the fullest and most powerful they’d been in 50 years. We were fortunate to be there, as only weeks prior to our trip the park was closed due to flooding caused by the melting snow.
Mariposa Grove is worth the hike for the enormous sequoia, and a gentle ride on hired bikes to the Mirror Lake is also very manageable. Due to the change in the volume of the waterfalls, the Misty Trail hike up to Vernal Falls was more like the Torrential Trail, but quite spectacular and well worth the effort.
Pacific Coast Highway
On down the coast to the old fishing town of Monterey, then the exquisite artist colony of Carmel-by-the-Sea, and on to San Luis Obispo – home of the bubble-gum wall (exactly what it sounds like), and the one-of-a-kind Madonna Inn (nothing to do with either the virgin or the singer).
Carmel-by-the-Sea, an artist colony.
Individually themed rooms with names like Caveman, Fabulous 50s, and Hearts and Flowers make the Inn a unique experience, and while we didn’t stay there this trip, a housekeeper was kind enough to let us take a peek. Definitely on our list of future accommodations.
Horse riding at Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo.
A leisurely meander across picturesque hills on horses from the Inn’s Trail Rides tested my courage. Snakes, spiders and the most nauseating of roller coasters I’m up for, but I am a little nervy around our equine friends. Thankfully I was gifted the docile Cherokee, to whom I softly whispered, “Please be nice!” all the way up the hill, and “Thank you for being nice!” all the way down.
Even if you’re not staying at the inn, you must grab a stool at the restaurant counter and order an American-sized slab of pink champagne cake and a soda. Look around the Barbie-pink explosion of finery that is the Steak House, and sneak into the world-famous men’s washroom with waterfall urinal – but best have a male friend check the coast is clear first!
World famous Steak House at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo.
Malibu and Los Angeles
Other highlights of a jam-packed trip were dinner on the sand at Paradise Cove in Malibu, watching Clueless by the pool and under the stars engulfed in the heady scent of jasmine at The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, dining on wiener schnitzel and cabbage in the Danish-style village of Solvang, Dodgers baseball games, and a mandatory marathon two days exploring Disneyland and California Adventure Park.
At a Dodgers baseball game.
Saying goodbye to California is always hard, so as we crammed our shopping into the extra fit-for-purpose bags we’d bought and shared one more fabulous Mexican meal at Pancho’s in Manhattan Beach, plans were already well under way for our next trip to The Golden State.
The Danish-style village of Solvang.
California travel tips
School summer holidays run from the beginning of June through August. Tourist spots fill up then. Yosemite in May was perfect, but by mid-June it was apparently packed.
Prices often look good, but always consider the exchange rate. Most goods will cost more than the price tag indicates due to state taxes that don’t appear until you’re at the checkout.
When you’ve finished dining, your server will “bring you the check”, and you pay while seated, rather than at the till. It’s not warmly received if you bypass this process.
Hollywood Boulevard itself is fun and a bit crazy, but you might want to keep the kids close and avoid after dark.
What we call entrées, Americans call starters. What we call mains, they call entrées. Knowing this can avoid accidental over-ordering of food.
If you hanker for some simple food, try the slightly fancy supermarket Whole Foods, as they have a self-serve smorgasbord arrangement. It’s not the cheapest, but by week three I was grateful for some plain salads and vegetables.
We love LA but locals don’t refer to June weather as “June gloom” for nothing. Be prepared you may have a few overcast days.
If visiting Disneyland or California Adventure Park, it is worth the extra investment of the Lightning Lane Pass, as it significantly cuts down wait times for rides.
Seaside staycation
Tourism and the Bay of Plenty go hand-in-hand this summer, with activities and adventures for everyone – plus plenty of opportunities to relax, eat, and take it all in.
Tourism and the Bay of Plenty go hand-in-hand this summer, with activities and adventures for everyone – plus plenty of opportunities to relax, eat, and take it all in.
Polynesian Spa
An iconic geothermal oasis on Lake Rotorua's shores, Polynesian Spa has been a global wellness destination for 50 years. Its 28 mineral-rich pools provide soothing experiences, from muscle relief in the Priest Spring to skin nourishment in the Rachel Spring. Geothermal marvels create a serene lakeside setting, complemented by diverse spa treatments, yoga, and meditation. Enjoy thoughtfully prepared meals at the café and discover unique gifts.
Luxe Cinemas
Looking for something to do on those rainy days? Luxe Cinemas has recently launched
in Tauranga and Papamoa, showcasing a wide range of films, from art house and documentaries to Hollywood blockbusters. The family-owned boutique cinema chain believes that going to the cinema should be an experience. With a luxurious lounge area, plush couches and beautiful foliage, even arriving at the cinema feels like the ultimate escapism. Sit back with your choice of beverage – perhaps a Mills Reef wine, Fitzpatrick craft beer or Excelso coffee – and snack to enjoy your film in luxury.
Dolphin Seafaris
Encounter wild dolphins on a thrilling adventure with Dolphin Seafaris. Set sail in the beautiful open waters of Tauranga and head out on an unforgettable journey to witness these enchanting creatures in their natural habitat. This is one for the whole family. Book your seats through the website or over the phone.
Flavours of Plenty Festival 2024
Having recently earned two awards at the NZEA New Zealand Event Awards for Best Local Government Event 2023 and Best Lifestyle Event 2023, the Flavours of Plenty Festival is returning again next year. Embark on a gastronomic adventure spanning from Waihī Beach to Ōhope Beach for eleven days, from April
4 to 14, 2024. Explore the coastal wonders of the Bay of Plenty as delectable treats collide in degustations, workshops, dish challenges, cook-offs, long lunches, tours, and so much more. Tickets and the programme will be unveiled in February 2024.
SmallGusta
What happens when you shrink a golf course to 10 percent of its size? You get Smallgusta! Only 15 minutes from the CBD and the Mount is New Zealand’s premium miniature golf course. Perfectly fun for all abilities, Smallgusta is a nine-hole, par 35 putting challenge with epic views, licensed café as well as thermally heated pools.
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 9pm.
Marshalls Animal Park
Looking for something fun to do with the kids? Marshalls Animal Park provides a fabulous day out in the country for young and old. Hand feed the friendly animals, check out the eel spring, and play on the flying fox playground. Bring a packed lunch to enjoy at the picnic tables, then head off for an easy nature walk, with an option to drive if needing special access. Pony rides available 11.30am to 1.30pm. Located at 140 McLaren Falls Road just outside Tauranga, the farm is open weekends and holidays 10am to 4.30pm, and Wednesdays to Fridays 10am to 2pm.
Mount Surf Academy
Experience the joy of surfing at Mount Maunganui beach this summer. Expert instructors make learning to surf a blast. Mount Surf Academy provides surf therapy, surf for mums, a women's programme, surf and yoga sessions, group packages to Matakana Island, plus many more fun activities.
Coastal charm
Sun, sand, strolls along the beach… Ōhope is a little slice of paradise with so many options for families, couples, and solo travellers to enjoy this summer.
Sun, sand, strolls along the beach… Ōhope is a little slice of paradise with so many options for families, couples, and solo travellers to enjoy this summer.
The beautiful Ōhope, just 6km from Whakatāne, is one of the Bay of Plenty’s hidden gems. With 11km of pristine golden sand, along with picturesque natural beauty, native birds and views of Whakaari/White Island and Moutohorā/Whale Island, it’s been voted
New Zealand’s most-loved beach for a reason.
Ōhope’s new hotspot
Situated at Port Ōhope Wharf, Wharfside is the place to be this season. Bring your family and friends and set off on a harbour cruise, hire SUP, kayaks, and e-scooters for some family fun, or sit and relax with a craft beer and bite to eat while the kids practice their manus off the wharf. This popular spot is open from December 27 through February 5, and select weekends throughout autumn. Visit the pop-up isite Visitor Information Centre to get all the inspo – and booking assistance – you need to
have an epic Eastern Bay summer.
Cruise & shuck
Discover Ōhiwa’s rich history, oyster farming, cultural significance and stunning harbour on an immersive Ōhiwa Tour. Experience the ocean’s bounty through an engaging oyster experience where you’ll learn the art of shucking oysters, followed by a tasting of delicious kaimoana. Tio Ōhiwa is more than just an oyster farm and takeaway shop; it's a community hub and indigenous-owned business that believes in bringing people together through good food and good company.
Get movin’
The calm waters, easy beach access and great scenery make VMAC Rides’ base on Wharfside, Ōhiwa Harbour the perfect place to have a go at stand-up paddleboarding. Whether you are a first-timer or a seasoned professional, VMAC Rides has the boards for you to get out there and enjoy yourself! Or if you’d rather stay on land, you can explore this little slice of paradise on an eScooter or eBike. Suitable for both adults and children, it’s a great way to have family fun together.
vmacrides.co.nz
Mata Brewery
Mata Brewery Taproom & Eatery is a much-loved family-friendly gathering place for Whakatāne locals and visitors alike. With a selection of 12 taps and several packaged options, there’s a wide variety of beer and cider to satisfy every taste. Try a tasting tray or grab a glass – they have a good selection of wine, low-alcohol, and non-alcoholic drinks, too. At Wharfside, they'll have a pop-up brewery with all their favourite beers and ciders, bar snacks and live music. It's a great spot to sit and relax while the kids swim and jump off the wharf.
Must-dos nearby
Surf and turf
Gaze at the stellar harbour views, take in a stellar sunset, and enjoy the beachy vibe from the spacious deck of Fisherman’s Wharf Café. Surf and turf is their speciality, with excellent steaks and sumptuous seafood – try the fish tacos – and there’s a decent beer and wine selection to ease you into another relaxed Ōhope evening. If you’re wanting tasty takeaways, fish and chips are available from the handy window too.
facebook.com/fishermanswharfcafe
Take to the water
With experienced guides who know the local history and environment, KG Kayaks offers tours and freedom hires in a variety of locations around the Whakatāne and Ōhope Beach area. The relaxing, family-friendly Ōhiwa Harbour tours, and trip out to Moutohorā/Whale Island via sailing catamaran are particularly memorable, with regular wildlife encounters and a hot water beach experience making it a day to remember. Novices are welcome, and safety is always first priority – they also offer options for school and corporate days out.
On the trail
Perfect for cyclists and walkers alike, the Ōhope Harbourside Trail is a gentle amble for all ages and abilities. Winding along the shoreline of one of our most unspoiled and culturally significant estuaries, Ōhiwa Harbour, you’ll come across a multitude of birdlife, shellfish and fish species. Traversing esplanade and recreational reserves, the walk has been designed to ensure the least disruption to the natural environment while allowing for stunning views.
Seven travel predictions for 2024
Booking.com reveals the most extensive travel predictions research to date and ranks Rotorua amongst the top 10 trending destinations around the world.
While travel used to be a means to escape life, new research from Booking.com reveals that travel is life in 2024 with three quarters (74%) of Kiwis stating they feel more alive than ever when they are on holiday.
With over half (58%) of Kiwi travellers thinking they are the best version of themselves while on holiday, and 64% wanting to be more like their holiday self in their day-to-day life back home, these trends reveal how Kiwis will go about bottling those feel-good holiday vibes so they don’t get left on the doorstep when they arrive home.
The research also reveals that AI is set to transform 2024 as travellers are increasingly plugging into tech to do the grunt work, freeing them up to tune into their intuition and spark more soul-stirring experiences.
Booking.com’s annual Travel Predictions research, which gathers insights from more than 27,000 travellers across 33 countries and territories, including over 1,000 from New Zealand, explores how travel will transport people out of autopilot and into living their best lives.
“Heading into a new year, Kiwis are demonstrating a renewed sense of optimism when it comes to travel, looking for opportunities to reinvigorate and reinvent themselves, be it on international escapades or simply exploring their own backyard, to level up their day-to-day lives,” comments Todd Lacey, Regional Manager of Oceania at Booking.com.
“Our 2024 Travel Predictions reflect the idea that travel is not a means to escape life, but instead a catalyst to live our best lives. At Booking.com, it’s our mission to make it easier for everyone to experience the world and we are committed to empowering extraordinary experiences that resonate with the heartbeat of each and every traveller in 2024 and beyond.”
1. (Alter) Ego Enthusiasts
People often take on different personas when travelling to feel more alive, with some even going as far as to make up stories about themselves to those they meet when travelling (20%). Over half (56%) of Kiwi travellers enjoy the anonymity that comes with travel, seeing it as a chance to recreate themselves and more than a third (34%) would even pay to rent a nicer car than they drive at home to live their finest lives with confidence.
Taking inspiration from aliases and avatars in the metaverse, half (51%) of travellers feel their ‘main character energy’ shine through on their travels, bringing their digital fantasies to life to fuel their boundless wanderlust by travelling to any real-world destinations of their choice.
2. Cool-cationers
Whilst Kiwis are hoping for a long, hot summer after endless months of rain, in other corners of the globe it seems heat has officially had its vacay heyday. Whilst Aotearoa has yet to experience soaring temperatures in 2023, heat waves around the world have accelerated a rise in travellers chasing cooler climates to holiday in. Only a third (30%) of Kiwis want to use their holiday in 2024 to cool down elsewhere - significantly lower than the rest of Asia Pacific travellers at 61%.
For many travellers, a rise in water-centric travel will take the edge off the heat with nearly three quarters (74%) agreeing that being close to water instantly makes them feel more relaxed, and over a third (42%) are interested in water-centric holidays such as cruising through scenic fjords or admiring the cityscapes on a yacht.
3. Surrender Seekers
Shifting from rigorous planning to chance encounters with a roll of the dice, nearly half (47%) of Kiwi travellers would like to have no prior plans set in stone for their travels, with a similar number (48%) wanting to see where the wind takes them by booking a surprise trip where everything down to the destination is unknown until arrival.
What’s more, the explosion of AI has already seen the launch of Booking.com’s AI Trip planner and over a third (34%) of Kiwi travellers would trust AI to plan a trip for them, further leaning into spontaneous travel that paves the way for lesser known locations and experiences, with nearly half (49%) preferring to venture off the beaten path.
4. Culinary Excavators
Kiwi travellers are keen to dig deep into the roots of cuisine by bucking next-gen food trends in favour of experiencing heritage flavours with the majority (87%) wanting to savour indigenous cuisines while exploring the world.
What’s more, over half (56%) are interested in learning about the origins of a destination’s ‘must-eat’ delicacies. Expect an increase in indigenous tourism experiences that bring greater visibility to communities around the globe such as this local Maori Village Tour in Rotorua that takes travellers on a storytelling journey behind the food they serve.
5. Reboot Retreaters
Kiwi travellers will be looking to travel experiences to unlock new versions of themselves with almost half (47%) seeking solace to do so. This group plans to travel alone in 2024, prioritising their own vitality through trips that see the partner and kids left at home.
A smaller subset are planning to use travel as a means to reflect on their relationships and drive reconnection. Nearly a quarter (24%) of travellers would carve out time for a matchmaking holiday to find love, while a similar number (27%) would focus on a heartbreak holiday to get over an ex. For those already coupled up, a quarter (25%) want to deepen that connection with their partner as their main priority for travelling in 2024.
6. A La Carte Affluencers
Kiwi travellers will employ money saving hacks to cut costs, yet level up holidays with ‘à la carte’ luxuries, scoring a rush from luxury travel – even if just for a moment in time. Further cementing the increased presence of AI in travel planning, around half (53%) of travellers want insights and tips from AI to curate budget-friendly travel itineraries with suggested deals, all with a tap of their finger.
These à la carte ‘affluencers’ want to appear wealthy through curating budget-friendly travel itineraries. For example, 45% are willing to pay for day passes to use the amenities in a five-star hotel rather than staying there and 52% of parents plan to travel outside of peak school holiday seasons to make their money stretch further in 2024.
7. Mindful Aesthetes
A growing movement of hotels and unique stays are responding to significant environmental and social challenges through architectural design. Mindful travellers will hunt down jaw-dropping architecture that has environmental features at its heart, with nearly half (41%) looking for accommodation that has a wow-factor in sustainability innovation and a majority (62%) wanting to see the outside brought indoors with green spaces and plants in accommodations.
Alongside contributing to conservation efforts, sustainable itineraries will give travellers exclusive access to the places they are helping preserve, in the most mindful and responsible way. Nearly half (48%) of Kiwi travellers are interested in sustainable travel apps where they can unlock experiences, such as adventures with locals to off-the-beaten-path areas (59%) or visiting remote locations that tourists otherwise have limited access to (50%).
For more information about Booking.com’s 2024 Travel Predictions, visit the official report here.
Cambodia calling
Liz French travelled to Cambodia and experienced firsthand the work of the Tauranga-based Cambodia Charitable Trust, meeting her sponsored child and learning about the brutal history of this beautiful country.
Liz French travelled to Cambodia and experienced firsthand the work of the
Tauranga-based Cambodia Charitable Trust, meeting her sponsored child and learning about the brutal history of this beautiful country.
Words Liz French
It’s an emotional moment when a 16-year-old high school student weeps with gratitude for the difference you are making in her life. Sear Sun Nary attends Ang Rokha Secondary School in the Takeo province south of Phnom Penh. My $60 per month, less than I spend on lattes, not only helps her but takes the pressure off her family, who live in a home smaller than my lounge, without running water or electricity. Dad farms their couple of cows, two pigs and a few chickens. Mum is a vendor, a precarious job at best.
Our Cambodian experience began in Phnom Penh. We took a tuk-tuk from the airport to our city hotel, the first of many rides in these rickshaws with open sides pulled by a motorbike, or with the engine incorporated in the more sophisticated ones. We soon discovered that if your group has more than one tuk-tuk, it becomes a race. We shot through frenetic streets full of scooters and a surprising number of late-model cars, all vying for road space in the chaos.
It’s a culture shock to arrive in a seething city, winterised bodies hitting mid-30s temperatures. The White Mansion, a former American Embassy residence, provided just the oasis of respite we needed, with large air-conditioned rooms, a cool pool and superb breakfasts, all for around NZ$100 a night. Mid-range accommodation is amazingly reasonable in Cambodia.
The next morning, we hit the markets. The Toul Tompoung, or Russian Market, harks to its popularity with Russian expats in the 1980s. It’s a labyrinth of stalls and sensory sensations where freshly skinned poultry hangs near stands of cheap clothing, trinkets, machinery components and cosmetics. The Phsar Thum Thmei (meaning New Grand Market), better known as Central Market, was completed in 1937, and fans out from a high art deco dome. More of the same in a slightly more salubrious and orderly setting.
The rarity of old people in Cambodia reflects the way Pol Pot virtually wiped out a generation. You cannot visit Phnom Penh without acknowledging this harrowing history. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (referred to by Khmer Rouge as S21) is a former school where, between 1975 and 1979, thousands endured torture and the exacting of false confessions before death. Rooms that held hundreds are now sparse spaces with subtle suggestions of the horror. Boards display photos of victims, one a commemoration of Kerry Hamill from Whakatane, who was plucked from his yacht off the coast and eventually executed. I felt I held my breath the whole time I was there.
It was a privilege to visit schools with Denise Arnold, founder/director of the Cambodia Charitable Trust. An immeasurable difference has been made by asking what was needed and delivering just that, by improving teacher training, and supplying basic needs like libraries and toilets. Her (and by default our) welcome reminded me of the way Sir Edmund Hillary was revered for his work with the Sherpas.
I was particularly taken with the children, who seemed equally fascinated by a little white lady. I was mobbed by primary kids on break and trailed by preschoolers, all in pristine uniforms, when visiting one of their homes reinforced their subsistence existence. Travelling with someone who has been there many times meant interesting off-the-beaten-track places, like the homestay where we were hosted overnight and saw their thriving cotton weaving cottage industry.
I was distressed by the proliferation of single-use plastic. But what can you do when the water is not fit to drink, when life in a third-world country is tough enough without worrying about the state of the planet? We even cleaned our teeth with bottled water. Plastic is strewn along the roads, and when we went to the top of a hill to see some ancient ruins and rural views, we climbed hundreds of steps littered with debris. It seemed that to be clear of rubble you had to be a regal or religious site. The Royal Palace grounds in Phnom Penh were a pristine vision; temples were tidy.
Our travels took us to Kampot, an attractive town with a sprinkling of French colonial architecture where an English woman owned our hotel, a cleverly converted cinema, and a Dutch expat ran our favourite riverfront restaurant; then to Sihanoukville on the coast where it was nicer to see the sea than the effects on the skyline of huge Chinese investment. It was a relief to hop on a plane to Siem Reap.
For many tourists, Cambodia is Siem Reap. They pour into the modern airport, take wide tree-lined streets into the bustling centre, stay in one of hundreds of hotels (ours was jaded but had a resort-quality pool), and eat cheaply in restaurants galore, many on Pub Street. Cocktails for a couple of dollars? Another one, please! Though it was quiet on the tourist front, we saw more Europeans here than the entire trip to date.
Angkor Wat is the drawcard. Angkor Wat means City of Temples and is said to be the largest religious monument in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 160 hectares was built in the 12th Century, the work, our guide told us, of 6,000 men and 4,000 elephants. Endless wall etchings depict bygone battles, and restoration work is never ending. There are several areas, so it pays to have a local guide and a tuk-tuk. The clean, green jungle setting is a balm to the soul.
I left my soul with the children of Cambodia, with their joy in education and the love and appreciation they showed for these visitors from a far land bringing them a brighter future. Nary, who I sponsor, wants to go to university and have a career. I will support her all the way.
To sponsor a child through the Cambodia Charitable Trust, visit cctnz.org.nz
Asia Pacific’s culinary gems
If you’re planning your next holiday, there are plenty of destinations around the Asia Pacific region that are culinary gateways to a world of gastronomic adventures
If you’re planning your next holiday, there are plenty of destinations around the Asia Pacific region that are culinary gateways to a world of gastronomic adventures.
KINN Capsule Hotel, Singapore
Finding yourself scouring socials to find the best restaurants, cafes or markets to enjoy delicious food when planning for your travels? You’re not the only one! Savouring local cuisine is one of the many ways to immerse yourself in the destination’s culture. In fact, Booking.com’s Travel Confidence Index for 2023 revealed 63 percent of Kiwi travellers said Food and Dining was top of mind for their next travel agenda.*
From the hidden hole-in-the-wall joints of Japan to the bustling night markets of Taiwan, embark on a mouthwatering adventure that is sure to leave your tastebuds dancing with delight. While you’re out and about indulging in local cuisines, you can rest your food-filled bellies at some of the best accommodations recommended by Booking.com — rest assured that your stay will be as remarkable as your dining experiences.
Zagame’s House
Melbourne, Australia
Spanning across various suburbs, travellers can find themselves pampered with choice when strolling down Melbourne’s iconic Lygon Street. Here travellers can find a diverse culinary offering from restaurants boasting a 400 cheese pizza to fiery ramen, depending on which side of the street you’re on.
Where to stay: Located in the heart of historic Carlton, Zagame’s House is a labour of love from hotelier brothers Victor and Robert Zagame. This 97-room hotel showcases the best of modern interior design, luxurious amenities, and sustainable architecture. From the art to the menu, every inch of Zagame’s House is designed to inspire you.
Beauty Avenue Inn
Kaohsiung, Taiwan
Step into a vibrant tapestry of flavours, colours and cultural experiences at Taiwan’s Liuhe Night Market, nestled in the heart of the city of Kaohsiung. This bustling market plays host to a multitude of food stalls offering Taiwan’s most tantalising street food. From fresh seafood delicacies to the delectable bubble tea that Taiwan is renowned for, each bite tells a story you’ll be delighted to partake in.
Where to stay: Beauty Avenue Inn is a short walk from Liuhe Night Market and a short drive from other famous attractions including the Kaohsiung Museum of History and National Science and Technology Museum. Regardless if you’re travelling solo or in a large group, this boutique hotel has a range of rooms to accommodate guests.
Tokyo, Japan
Discover a taste of Japanese comfort food at Homemade Ramen Muginae. Tucked away in the bustling streets of Tokyo, this unassuming hole-in-the-wall store exudes an authentic charm — but don’t be fooled by its humble exterior for the wait for a seat could take up to two hours!
Luckily, the restaurant takes daily reservations starting at 9am, leaving travellers plenty of time to explore the surrounding streets. With one third (33 percent) of Kiwi travellers wanting to immerse themselves in local culture when travelling, tasting authentic cuisine at critically-acclaimed restaurants like this is the way to go.
Where to stay: JR-East Hotel Mets Omori is ideal for those who spend most of their days out and about in the city streets as it’s at the centrepoint of various attractions. The hotel is an eight-minute walk from Homemade Ramen Muginae and is near well-known attractions such as the Atre Omori Shopping Mall and a myriad of shrines such as the Omori Sanno Hie Shrine, Iwai Jinja Shrine and Enno-ji Temple.
Hong Kong
Prepare to be amazed by the culinary excellence of Cheung Hing Kee, a Michelin-recommended street food destination located in the lively streets of Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.
Renowned for their Shanghai pan-fried buns, this eatery is a testament to the exceptional gastronomy Hong Kong boasts. Indulge in equally-mouthwatering local dishes including the siu mai and har gow as Cheung Hing Kee presents a symphony of flavours that is sure to capture the true essence of Hong Kong’s street food scene.
Where to stay: If you’re looking for a fancier stay, the Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong boasts seven dining options, including a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant, tapas bar and cocktail lounge for foodies to continue their culinary crusade. The refined Asian-influenced decor blends seamlessly with richly coloured furnishings amid captivating views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong’s iconic skyline. The hotel enjoys a strategic location in the dynamic Tsim Sha Tsui neighbourhood, ideally situated for urban discoveries in Hong Kong’s shopping and entertainment district.
KINN Capsule Hotel
Singapore
Also ranked amongst the Top 10 most searched international destinations by Kiwis this winter season**, bustling Singapore is renowned for its street food culture. A must-not-miss culinary checkpoint is the iconic Maxwell Food Centre, which promises an array of rich flavours and aromas. Situated in the heart of Chinatown, this hawker centre is a culinary melting pot — whether you’re craving a traditional serving of laksa, a beloved national dish of Hainanese chicken rice or looking to beat the heat with a refreshing bowl of ice kacang, options here are plentiful and diverse.
Where to stay: You’ll have a great night’s rest in the spacious yet cosy capsule KINN Capsule Hotel. Boasting a total of 72 capsules designed for your comfort and privacy, this boutique capsule hotel is located in the heart of Singapore, a short distance from Chinatown, the Singapore River and National Gallery as well as a 10-minute walk from Maxwell Food Centre. It features a communal lounge and sun terrace, perfect for socialising on your travels.
*Methodology: Research commissioned by Booking.com and independently conducted by Milieu Insight among a sample of 8,800 respondents across 11 countries and territories across APAC (including 800 from New Zealand).
**Methodology: this report looks at search sessions in April (between 2023-04-03 and 2023-04-16) with check-in dates between July and August (2023-07-01 and 2023-08-31). For comparison figures we looked at search sessions between the same time period last year (2022-04-04 and 2022-04-17, with check-in dates between 2022-07-01 and 2022-08-31).
In the blood
Racing is all in the family for the McClymonts, a three-generation clan of Baypark Speedway legends
Racing is all in the family for the McClymonts, a three-generation clan of Baypark Speedway legends.
Words Catherine Sylvester | Photos Alan Gibson + supplied
Brent, Hayley, Luke and Emma at Baypark Speedway.
If Shakespeare was correct when he wrote “music be the food of love”, then the soundtrack to Brent and Hayley McClymont’s romance was playing long before they met. Instead of chords and harmonies, however, the backing track to their lives consisted of revving engines and the roar of a crowd as they travelled the speedway tracks of the North Island with their fathers.
Hayley and twin sister, Kylie, grew up around motorsport with their dad, Brian Audas, racing at Mystery Creek in Hamilton. A hundred kilometres away in Tauranga, Brent and his brother, John’s dad Dave, were also racing, and had helped build the old Baypark racetrack, behind what is now a trucking yard across the road from the current venue. Christine, the matriarch of the McClymont clan, has been involved with Baypark Speedway for many years, serving in a variety of roles including treasurer and secretary.
Dave and Christine McClymont
With both senior members of the family holding honorary lifetime club memberships, and their lengthy involvement in racing, it’s unsurprising that Brent and John followed in dad’s tyre tracks and took up the sport themselves. There was even a time when all three McClymont men were competing weekly against each other on the track.
Brent McClymont
Keeping things in familia, more than 20 years ago Hayley married Brent, and Kylie married John. Both couples had children – Luke and Emma, and Jack and Josh, respectively – and the third generation of McClymonts became involved with speedway, either behind the wheel or in the pits.
Call it fate, karma or kismet, but Luke even made his earthly debut the opening night of speedway 20 years ago.
“It was also Brent’s birthday,” laughs Hayley. “Brent didn’t want to miss any racing, so he stood outside the hospital while I was in labour, doing a rain dance in the hopes it would be postponed – the speedway, that is, not Luke!”
While still only a few days old, Luke and Emma could be found at the racetrack, and grew up around the sport, playing in prams and sleeping
on chairs. The speedway community was like family, and all the competitor’s children would have a collective eye cast their way to ensure they were safe and staying out of trouble.
Although Brent hung up his helmet at the end of the 2014/15 season after 25 years of racing, he did so with an impressive array of trophies to his name. He’s a two-time NZ champion and has the distinction of being the only competitor to have placed in the top three on the podium for seven consecutive national titles since the recognition of the saloon class of cars.
The decision to pass the racing baton to his son came after Luke was rushed to hospital following a crash one night, with Brent unable to accompany him due to already being strapped into his own car and sitting in the line-up. He knew he could no longer fully support Luke and maintain his own racing career.
“I had another go last year when Luke was sick with COVID-19,” Brent explains. “Now, though, it’s watching the kids coming through the ranks
that I get a buzz from.”
Luke says racing is in his blood and that he’ll never get rid of it, nor would he want to.
“Dad raced on the first ever opening night of speedway at Baypark, and there’s definitely a legacy there,” says the winner of the Regional Competitor of the Year Award 2023. “It’s something I’ll definitely want my kids to do, too.”
Unable to officially race at Baypark before the age of 12, Luke and Emma, along with cousins Jack and Josh, started out in motocross. When old enough, the three boys moved into racing mini-stocks, with Josh and Luke now competing against each other in the six-shooter category. Even Emma’s boyfriend, who used to race, has been brought into the fold as part of the McClymont pit crew.
Apart from a handful of “mums’ races” during fun days held at Waharoa Speedway (that turned quite competitive when sister Kylie joined in), Hayley is happy off the track, behind the scenes and in the pits. When they began dating 30 years ago, Hayley knew what she was getting into and jumped in boots and all. After race-day, she could be found polishing the car’s aluminium panels and cleaning Brent’s helmet. She acknowledges that although it’s the drivers who get the accolades, Brent and Luke know the work their crews do behind the scenes is what enables them to get out there and do what they do best. Competing is a full McClymont team effort.
“The crew make sure the gear is cleaned, memberships completed, accommodations booked when travelling for competitions, and entry forms filled out,” Hayley explains. “Brent and Luke always get up and thank everyone behind the scenes when they win, and that means a lot.”
The family credits their sponsors, particularly the ongoing, long-term support of local business McLeod Cranes, with their ability to keep racing.
Dave McClymont
“McLeod’s have always been on the side of our cars – Brent and John’s saloons, all the boys mini-stocks, and now Luke and Josh in the six-shooter class,” explains Hayley. It’s no surprise to learn there’s even a family connection there. “Brent’s mum is godmother to one of the boys who now run the business!”
With Luke firmly buckled into the driver’s seat and eyes focused forward (at the time of print Luke received sponsorship from Seamount Racing, taking him into the Midget class), dreams of racing sprintcars are on the horizon. However, his biggest obstacle in getting this out the gate isn’t the competition, but the financial outlay it requires.
“The only way that it could happen is if someone else owns the sprintcar package, Luke races it and we help maintain it,” says Hayley. “That’s the dream scenario, anyway – or to win Lotto!”
If the family’s record of wins is anything to go by, the odds are most likely in their favour. And with two competitors still in the game, we’ll no doubt be hearing the name McClymont announced for the victory lap over loudspeakers at Baypark for quite some time to come.
Heart of the village
A wander into Bethlehem Town Centre uncovers some hidden treasures, both old and new
A wander into Bethlehem Town Centre uncovers some hidden treasures, both old and new.
If you haven’t visited Bethlehem Town Centre recently, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to discover new offerings among its boutique specialist shops.
Ko Ko Dak is the newest eatery on the block, offering Korean cuisine with a twist. Now a choice of burgers offers even more of a fusion between east and west.
Luxurious new nail bar Majestic Nail Salon is a relaxing stop for shoppers looking for some retail respite, with a comfortable space and competitive pricing.
Other favourites like Caroline Eve, award-winning salon Rodney Wayne and home of Tauranga's famous fudgery Options Gifts on the High Street
make it easy to lose yourself in a day of retail therapy and pampering indulgence.
With spring upon us, the allure of Bethlehem's High Street lies not only in its boutique treasures but also in its inviting ambiance. For those seeking a touch of nature, take a leisurely stroll through “the grove”, a serene enclave of native trees accessible via a charming boardwalk. With over a dozen mature trees, the grove creates an atmosphere of relaxation and tranquillity.
Shoppers can begin the day with a steaming cup of rejuvenating coffee at one of the charming cafés that bookend the street, like the revamped outdoor dining at The Coffee Club. Or savour the scenic views from Columbus Coffee, where a menu of local favourites await, curated by owners Alana and Steve.
So whether you're drawn to designer fashion, pampering beauty treatments, or a serene natural retreat, Bethlehem Town Centre's High Street has something for every discerning visitor. Unveil the charm of this shopping haven and indulge in the pleasures that await around every corner.
TRENDING IN BETHLEHEM
Fashion and gifting is at the forefront of Bethlehem Town Centre. Some of the village style gurus tell us what’s on offer for spring.
SHOO
Shoo is welcoming a fun new season with a pop of colour for spring. Handcrafted shoes from Italy showcase bright oranges, cobalt blues and emerald greens. With a strong European influence in store, key brands this season include Laura Bellariva, Repo, Manufacture d'essai, and Repaini, all from Italy. Kathryn Wilson is bringing a touch of 70s with cork outsoles on high platforms and fun colours with bags to match. New sunglasses range Otra is in store and well priced from $89.
AFTER HOURS BOUTIQUE
With main designer brands being Joseph Ribkoff, Frank Lyman and Anthea Crawford, the trending colours for Spring/Summer 23 are hot pink (thank you, Barbie!) and emerald green. Tropical florals are going to be popular for wedding season, while sequins are having a major comeback for party/cocktail wear. There are a lot of floaty styles coming in as well as more structured silhouettes.
URBAN VOGUE & GEORGE EDWARD
Two iconic fashion boutiques sit side by side in the town centre. The sister boutiques stock some of the country's leading fashion designers such as Kinney, Lemontree and Nice Things, Blackstone, MIMOSO and Noa Noa. Led by a small and experienced team who help their customers curate beautiful, stylish looks that are built on quality, taste and superb design, it's an experience to shop here that is matched only by overseas fashion houses.
TANGO’S SHOES
Chrissie Blazen (pictured) is fashioned with linen, giving an earthy, minimalistic look – a key style this spring. Providing an effortless flair
with chic ruffled French pleat detail, the look is finished with this stunning mule. Available in Natural and Black Linen. Exclusive European brands include Aerobics, Andacco, Carrano, Gaimo, Plakton and Viguera.
BETHLEHEM EYE CARE
Discover the epitome of elegance in eyecare at Bethlehem Eye Care,
where independent optometrist Stuart Willats and his team redefine vision excellence. With more than 20 years experience delivering unparalleled high quality and professional care, they specialise in comprehensive eye examinations, precision contact lens fittings and bespoke spectacles. Brands include Woody®, Barcelona, Face & Cie and Vanni.
DECK THE HALLS
Bethlehem Town Centre is gearing up for a busy Christmas season. Each year, the centre makes the most of its open-air village experience by featuring Santa’s sleigh, Tauranga’s biggest Christmas tree and New Zealand’s largest Nutcracker Soldier. There will be some fun new additions to this year’s Christmas installs, including some Christmas card-worthy photo opportunities with gingerbread man and Santa chairs, and a 3D Christmas card. The village is also home to a beloved Santa – he’s a third-generation Santa Claus!