Choice as
Pāpāmoa was recently crowned ’New Zealand’s Choicest Suburb’. With its recent developments and array of foodie offerings, it’s easy to see why.
Pāpāmoa was recently crowned ’New Zealand’s Choicest Suburb’. With its recent developments and array of foodie offerings, it’s easy to see why.
photos ALAN GIBSON + SUPPLIED
The people have spoken. And what the people have said is that Pāpāmoa is officially ’New Zealand's Choicest Suburb’.
Every suburb in Aotearoa was eligible, but the Bay’s popular beachside location won, earning more than 50,000 public votes in the competition hosted by Trade Me Property.
But what was it about the unassuming suburb that won people over? Well, the natural environment is what truly sets Pāpāmoa apart. There’s the amazing beach, the recently redeveloped walks on Pāpāmoa Hills and numerous parks and reserves to enjoy. The accessibility to the beach combined with the expansive green spaces makes it an ideal place to live and unwind.
But it’s not just about the physical beauty of the area. It’s what’s on the inside that counts. And Pāpāmoa enjoys a welcoming and strong sense of community. Along with the gentle sea breeze that blows in from the sea and up over the dunes, you can also sense the community spirit.
People smile at each other when they walk by and there’s a sense of friendliness that harkens back to a time before people were rushed off their feet.
With that in mind, of course, its popularity has increased in recent years. The area’s growth is evident in the exciting ongoing developments that are improving the livability and options for people of all ages, who are attracted here by the promise of its lifestyle.
There is a master plan for the community that is being followed. It includes amenities like roading networks, cycleways and walkways, schools, childcare centres, dining options, supermarkets, office spaces, cinema, vet services, churches and retail along with a diverse variety of housing options suited to different lifestyles.
The focus of the plan is on creating a place where people can live and thrive and ensuring that Pāpāmoa remains a welcoming place for everyone.
You could even say it’s choice.
Pāpāmoa’s wonderful world of food
A visit to Pāpāmoa is akin to taking your tastebuds on an gastronomic adventure around the world. Whether you’re after an intimate date night, a social outing or some family fun, you’ll find Pāpāmoa has you covered.
Ali Baba’s House
Open says-a-me if you’re after a tasty Turkish feast. From mouth-watering kebabs to tasty pizzas and sweet baklava you’ll find plenty of culinary treasures here. You can dine in, take away or even have it delivered.
255 The Boulevard, The Sands
Grill and Green
This vibrant, Mediterranean-inspired menu is full of fresh, flavourful dishes like Turkemen Chicken, Open Souvlaki as well as classics like calamari, Scotch Fillet steak and their popular GnG burger. There’s indoor and outdoor seating and a relaxed vibe, or if a seaside picnic takes your fancy, takeaway options are available.
Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre
Hello Sushi
Hello? Is it sushi you’re looking for? Then roll up to Hello Sushi. Their made-to-order sushi is bursting with flavour. Find classic rolls through to creative new combinations.
Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre and 255 The Boulevard, The Sands
Henry and Ted’s
We’re hesitant to spread the word about Pāpāmoa’s best-kept secret, but this lively café is a popular favourite with the locals for its chill vibes and delicious breakfasts, brunches and lunches. The sweet treats in the cabinet are forever tempting and the coffee is worth the trip alone.
Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre
Great Spice Indian
All the flavours of India are brought straight to your table at Great Spice. With a warm atmosphere and a dedication to authenticity, your cravings will be well satisfied whether you’re after a rich curry, a sizzling tandoori, or a fragrant biryani. Vegetarian and vegan options ensure there’s a dish for everyone to enjoy.
Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre
Pablo
For a Latin-inspired dining experience, Pablo is the place to go. With a menu powered by traditional Brazillian flavours, its modern tapas-inspired dishes are perfect for sharing and enjoying a social night out. Be sure to indulge in one of their expertly crafted cocktails.
255 The Boulevard, The Sands
Papa Mo’s
This Pāpāmoa institution has a well-earned reputation as being the home of serious fun. Offering an extensive menu of pub faves like fish n’ chips, burgers and tacos as well as classic dishes like lamb shanks and pasta. With live music on Fridays and Sundays, quiz nights and other regular events, you can bet there’s always something happening at Papa Mo’s.
Golden Sands Drive, Excelsa Centre
Matakana: A foodie’s dream
Matakana is well known as a hub for Auckland beach-goers, but, thanks to its flourishing food and beverage scene, it’s now on the map as a highly-desired destination for those beyond the Bombay Hills.
Matakana is well known as a hub for Auckland beach-goers, but, thanks to its flourishing food and beverage scene, it’s now on the map as a highly-desired destination for those beyond the Bombay Hills.
words HAYLEY BARNETT
Matakana, located just north of Auckland, may not look like much on a map – a few buildings lining a roundabout on your way to more populated destinations like Omaha and Leigh. But looks can be deceiving.
By the weekend, the usual 10-minute drive from Warkworth into Matakana becomes an hour-long standstill queue. Everyone’s desperate to get their hands on some of the best food products the region has to offer.
The best way to experience this little food haven is to get in before the weekend crowds by making it your base.
My husband and I came across two local businesses which allowed us to do just that. Canopy Camping Escapes became our base, just an eight-minute drive from the town, and Village Picnic offered a way for us to explore the region through its burgeoning food and beverage producers.
STAY
High on a hill, nestled in native bush, are two secluded glamping sites named Sola and Sokoon. We booked into Sokoon, the Persian of which means tranquility and stillness – exactly what we were craving after dropping the kids at Grandma’s in Auckland.
Besides the WIFI, this accommodation offers the feeling of being completely off grid. To get to the site you need to park your car at the top of the hill and make your way down a steep, narrow track. Top tip: don’t take a suitcase.
Owners Rachael and Ario were kind enough to lend us a backpack to transport a few essentials down to our site. They live on top of the hill with their two daughters in a house they’ve recently restored, with panoramic views of the coast and mountains. They both believe strongly in living as sustainably as possible, and this is evident in the way they’ve set up the two glamping sites. Many of the salvaged materials from their home rebuild have been repurposed into the domes, giving them, as they say, a “sustainable charm”.
Beyond the dome is a sheltered kitchen, bathroom, outdoor shower and bath. Don’t let the sustainability factor fool you, however. The site has everything you need to make your stay comfortable and the interior is every bit as beautiful as the scenery.
DO
On our way in from Auckland, we stopped at Village Picnic in Warkworth. Philippa Potaka cleverly puts together mystery picnic adventures for those wishing to meet and explore local producers, to taste test the very best of the region. At the end of a fun scavenger hunt you have yourselves a very ample picnic to feast on at your f inal destination. You don’t know what you will be scavenging, or where you’ll end up, which is perfect for these explorers who love good kai. Ours covered the coast from Matakana Village down to Algies Bay and finished in Warkworth. Other packages include the areas of Puhoi, Pakiri and Leigh.
EAT
Matakana Markets
We started at the famous Matakana Markets. Without giving too much away, our first clue took us straight to two popular stores at the market. Joining a long line, which weaved through the shop and out on to the street, we were treated to the delicious aroma of freshly baked bread.
From there, it was on to a chocolatier that specialises in artisan bonbons. After an insightful chat with the store’s very knowledgeable staff, we picked up our parcels from each, stowed them in our chilly bin and moved on to the next clue.
Charlies Gelato
This popular gelato cafe wasn’t on the list, but happened to be home to our next mystery vendor – a place where you can pick your own flowers. The hidden garden sits between a giant wood-fired pizza kitchen and a gelato store, located on Sharp Road, about five minutes drive outside of Matakana Village. We arrived just before lunch and the place was already buzzing with pizza and gelato lovers getting their fix. Thankfully we had the garden to ourselves as we picked a bunch of flowers to take with us on our picnic. As we precariously wedged the jars of flowers between our car seats, we worked out the next riddle and headed towards the coast.
Snells Beach
Next we found ourselves at the water's edge and a home to cute miniature villages, where we picked up some equally cute homemade condiments from a local residence. The next clue took us to a long winding driveway and through to a magical world of art and horticulture. As we took in the sights and sampled an array of beverages on offer, it became apparent that we must start eating our collected edible treasures, so we made the next stop our final picnicking place.
Highfield Gardens Reserve
This reserve at Algies Bay is known as ‘the donkey park’, for the amount of donkeys roaming around the grounds. You can drive through the gates of the park up to the top, which overlooks the whole of the bay. It was the perfect spot for what had become more of a banquet than a picnic. As well as the treats we'd picked up along the way, Philippa had also supplied us with a range of cheeses, crackers, deli meats, pickled vegetables and drinks. We quickly found a picnic table before the rush and got to work on our feast. Later, we found we had more than enough to last us through dinner!
EAT
Brick Bay Winery
This, we discovered, is one of the area’s most famous wineries. As you enter, art sculptures are dotted along the farmland, and an impressive glass house that seemingly floats above a large pond is home to a beautiful restaurant and bar. The Row, where the tastings take place, sits outside this – a greenhouse-esque structure completely covered in grapevines, which provides a cool and quirky shelter to mingle and taste the best of Brick Bay’s vintages.
Viet-Q Vietnamese
Definitely worth a mention is Viet-Q's Vietnamese food truck. This was recommended to us by our lovely hosts at Canopy Camping. The trailer is tucked between houses on the main road coming into Matakana Village but is hard to miss. The amount of people milling around the area will immediately catch your eye. Head chef and founder Phuong Graham trained in food technology before introducing locals to her authentic Vietnamese flavours. Today it’s one of the most popular eateries in the region. From Banh Mi to Chilli Chicken, this is authentic Vietnamese cuisine at its best.
Adventure awaits
Nicky Adams explores the timeless appeal of Disneyland and discovers its magic isn’t only reserved for the kids.
Nicky Adams explores the timeless appeal of Disneyland and discovers its magic isn’t only reserved for the kids.
It’s hard to put your finger on just what makes theme parks so magical, when most of us are way past our Disney delight days.
‘We’re doing it for the kids,’ mutter the adults as they race behind the super-sized Mickey Mouse, not a child in sight. The fact is it doesn’t matter what age you are, there is something wonderful about being transported into another world, where everything is bright, fun, and essentially make believe. To quote Walt Disney, ‘You’re never too old to be young.’
I think the sheer fantasy is what makes me love it so much – the larger-than-life characters, the ‘cast members’ (staff) dressed up as a 1950s Barbershop Quartet belting out random a capella on Main Street, the sight of a Mark Twain-style steamboat making its way down the Mississippi. The wild imagination of it all is nothing short of joyous.
Ironically, I hate roller coasters, but there’s a million and one other rides to try, from flying through Neverland on the low-level Peter Pan’s Flight to the exhilaration of gunning down enemy craft as you take the helm on the Star Wars’ Millennium Falcon Smugglers Run.
Disneyland Anaheim opened in 1955 and is made up of Disneyland and the latterly added California Adventure (which opened in 2001); between the two parks they cover every single age and stage.
Both parks are divided into ‘lands’ and tactically feature rides and references to the original Disney days but have kept up to date with all the latest stories and characters, so no genre is left untouched. There’s the old-worldly fairground feel of the ferris wheel in California Adventure (where you can choose between a carriage that stays static or one that swings), or there’s the high-tech Rise of the Resistance, the latest simulation Star Wars ride in Disneyland. In between you have the fan favourites of the indoor rollercoaster Space Mountain, river rapid ride Grizzly River Run and of course the dark speed of the Radiator Springs Racers.
The fantasy world that you’re about to step into starts before you enter the parks themselves. Downtown Disney District serves as the soft launch; connecting the two parks and the three hotels, it’s free to get into (although you do need to go through security) and is a lively and beautifully landscaped, easy-to-navigate outdoor shopping and dining area that hums with entertainment. It’s also home to a dangerously delicious Wetzel Pretzel café – try at your peril. This is the area from where you enter one park or the other – the Park Hopper ticket will gain entrance to both on the same day. Exploring both parks will likely take you a good couple of days, although with opening hours going between 8am and 10pm it’s possible – if exhausting – to simply keep going, to get the most out of your ticket entrance. However, if you do, brace yourself to cover an awful lot of ground during your day.
Visiting in October, the weather was cool in the morning and evening, but by 10am had warmed up to high 20s, which may sound sweltering, but low UV saved burning. Saying that, it wasn’t a heat you wanted to stand around in for too long, so a queue- jumping Fast Pass was invested in at an extra cost.
While this certainly saves plenty of time in the queues (you can book an advance time slot) it’s by no means a perfect system. We found it incredibly frustrating that you could only hold one slot, and when the time shown came up it often gave you a later time slot than shown on the Disney app. The waiting, I’m afraid, is unavoidable. On the plus side, the queues are incredibly civilised and, other than slowing you down, could just be accepted as part of the experience. The cost is another aspect to be considered. A weak NZ to US exchange rate, along with post-Covid price rises, doesn’t go unnoticed when on top of the ticket price comes a day of theme park treats. Saying that, while there are plenty of in-park refreshment stops, packing your own water bottles and snacks is worthwhile.
As I mentioned – as someone that is terrified of rollercoasters, you might think that it would be hard to find things to do. Oh contraire! Weirdly, although I’m rollercoaster averse, I found I was born for the simulated rides, which (I was quietly smug about) other far gutsier family members struggled with.
My pick would without question be Soarin’ Around the World. If I could have done it all day long, I would have. Strapped into a simulator you whizz above the African plains, Eiffel Tower – even tropical islands – all the time being infused with the scent to match.
Sounds weird I know, but it was incredible. Another goody was the Pirates of the Caribbean – I lost count of how many times we all did this. A couple of wee water drops was as scary as it got, but an underground journey through the land of the pirates was more fun that you can imagine with something different to see every time. The detail was so mesmerising it came as no surprise to learn that it was the ride that inspired the movie. The adrenalin junkies did Big Thunder Mountain Railroad on repeat, loving the thrill of the ride, but everyone agreed you needed nerves of steel for the Guardians of the Galaxy.
Formally called Hollywood Tower of Terror, involving stomach-churning drops. Nothing would possess me to do this.
All the while you wander – or race depending on your timeframe – through the parks, there will be a million other things going on around you. Bands marching followed by carriages carrying Cruella de Vil and her henchmen, Disney Princesses amid eager young children waiting for a hug, Storm Troopers arresting bystanders. And then there’s the parades – crowds stand aside while highly decorated dancers dance and singers sing. The excitement stretches well into the night, with light shows and weekend firework extravaganzas. Just when you think you’re all out of energy, you might find that last bit in the tank for another round of rides.
Without doubt the easiest way to maximise your time is to stay at one of the three Disneyland Resort hotels – the newly vamped up Pixar Place, Grand Californian, or original Disneyland Resort. A stay here will ensure you get early access to the parks before any other guests arrive and gives you the ability to bob back and forth to regroup throughout the day. It also extends the magic as the hotels are home to more characters, round reception corners and you might bump into Chip and Dale – peep above your poolside cocktail and you may spy Goofy on his way to wow the diners at the Goofy’s kitchen restaurant. In the worlds of Walt Disney: “Here you leave today and enter the world of yesterday, tomorrow and fantasy.”
Adventure in comfort
Tanya Chaffey from Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates is UNO's new travel columnist, this time offering her expert advice on navigating luxury travel with the whole family.
Luxury and family-friendly travel don’t always go hand in hand. But travelling with children doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the finer things in life. Tanya Chaffey from Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates is UNO's new travel columnist, this time offering her expert advice on navigating luxury travel with the whole family.
photos SALINA GALVAN + supplied
Embarking on travel with children creates life-long memories that you and your family will treasure for years to come.
It does, however, require a bit more planning to balance relaxation with family-friendly needs. Here are a few tips to get you going.
• When it comes to choosing which destinations to visit with children, look for spots that offer both premium amenities and child-friendly activities. Think resorts with dedicated childrens' clubs, private villas or hotels offering family suites and family activities.
Luxury resorts in places like the Maldives, Bali or the Caribbean offer specialised kids' programmes and family activities, ensuring there’s something for everyone. Also, consider destinations with easy access to nature, such as safaris in Africa, or mountain retreats in Europe, which can engage children while offering relaxation for parents.
• Invest in private tours or excursions. A private guide for a day trip, a yacht charter, or even private spa treatments can offer both family-friendly activities and some quality adult downtime. This can be especially helpful if your child has specific interests or needs (eg a zoo tour for animal lovers). Luxury hotels sometimes offer VIP access to major attractions, meaning you can avoid long lines and crowds, which makes it easier with children.
• Many cruise lines offer amazing inclusions for children, like standing waves, rock climbing walls and even dodgems. And the wide variety of cuisine onboard means there will be options for even the fussiest eaters. Be sure to enlist the help of a travel agent, who can suggest the best cruiseline that will work for you and your family.
• When booking flights, ask your travel advisor to book with an airline that has child-friendly amenities (like bassinets, entertainment and children's meals). Many airlines offer priority boarding, extra legroom, and specialised children's kits to make the flight more enjoyable.
• Finally, even with the best planning, travelling with children can bring surprises – meltdowns, sickness and the like – so remain flexible. Having an advisor on hand means there is always someone available to accommodate last-minute changes or requests. But staying relaxed and patient is the key to enjoying the experience!
Tanya Chaffey is a specialist for premium travel for the Bay of Plenty. Having been in the industry for 17 years, she’s explored 65 countries, with many more on her bucket list, and is a master at planning journeys off the beaten path.
She visits hidden gem destinations and finds experiences that give her an incredible perspective on the culture of a place. One of her best travel experiences was visiting Paro Taksang, or Tigers Nest Monastery, in Bhutan and most recently visited the Five Stans of Central Asia.
No matter your travel plans, whether it's a multi-generational trip of a lifetime, or a romantic seaside escape, the team at Chaffey and Turner Travel Associates will make your holiday special.
Celebrate the Eastern Bay
If stunning scenery and sun-filled days aren’t enough to draw you to Whakatāne and Ōhope this autumn, event season certainly will – and there are plenty to choose from.
If stunning scenery and sun-filled days aren’t enough to draw you to Whakatāne and Ōhope this autumn, event season certainly will – and there are plenty to choose from.
Flavours of Plenty events
Scales and Ale’s
Saturday, April 5
An evening of exceptional flavours at Fisherman’s Wharf. Indulge in a four-course dinner, each course paired with craft beers sourced from the region. Enjoy delicious, locally grown produce while taking in the stunning harbour views. This event is a must for beer lovers and foodies, offering a fusion of taste and ambiance. Don’t miss out on this unforgettable culinary experience, showcasing local brews and seasonal ingredients.
Tamariki Foodie Fair
Saturday, April 5
Treat your youngsters to a day of delight at the Tamariki Foodie Fair – the ultimate foodie event for children, offering fun, sensory experiences such as blind tasting, nut cracking, face painting, stilt walkers and food demonstrations for kids by kids. Food trucks will be there to serve kids’ favourite treats throughout the day at Wharfside overlooking Ōhiwa Harbour. Treat your Tamariki to a day of delight – the perfect day out for families. Free entry ensures everyone can join in, with delicious treats and selected activities for purchase.
Late Summer Farm Kitchen
Saturday, April 5
A unique farm-to-table experience celebrating the joy of cooking, sharing and savouring local produce. Set on a beautiful family farm with expansive gardens and a hand-built barn, this long summer lunch is part workshop, part cooking class, and part indulgent feast. Guests will enjoy a hands-on experience before sitting down to a long, leisurely lunch built around the best seasonal produce the farm has to offer. Whether a seasoned cook or a beginner, there’s the option to get involved or simply relax with a glass of wine and soak up the rural charm while enjoying great food, local wines, and warm hospitality.
Discover Wainui's Food Secrets Tour
Saturday, April 12
Join this exclusive food tour through Wainui, where you’ll explore the region’s best-kept edible secrets. It will take you to five carefully selected stops, each with its own remarkable story. From the oyster farms of Ōhiwa Harbour, where cultural significance meets sustainable farming, to the unlikely truffle success story, the journey unfolds as you meet local producers and taste their creations.
A Taste of Wainui Marketplace
Saturday, April 12
Celebrate the first-ever Wainui Producers Market, held in the picturesque Waingarara Valley. This free, family-friendly event showcases the region’s best food producers, offering fresh oysters and organic produce to truffles, olives, honey, macadamia nuts, berries, ice cream and wood-fired pizza. A licensed bar will be available for beer and wine purchases, while live entertainment adds to the fun atmosphere. Enjoy lunch, shop, and discover unique local produce in this scenic, community-focused event.
Cray Tails and Cocktails
Saturday, April 12
Enjoy four delicious crayfish dishes, each paired with a cocktail, all served in a laid-back atmosphere at Fisherman’s Wharf. With local produce, stunning waterfront views, and a relaxed vibe, this evening is all about indulging in tasty food and having fun. Whether you're a seafood fan or just looking for a casual night out, this event is one you won't want to miss.
To purchase tickets to any of these events, visit:
Retail paradise
If you make a weekend of it, be sure to save time for some retail therapy. Whakatāne and Ōhope have a selection of beautiful boutiques, featuring well-loved national and international brands.
Whakatāne
Whakatāne’s CBD has come of age in recent years. The attractive and bustling town centre makes it easy to roam with a range of boutique shops. After some retail therapy, soak up the plentiful sunshine at one of the outdoor eateries. Veer off the main drag and you’ll also find a few hidden gems.
TOP PICKS
Ōhope
Although it can be hard to drag yourself away from the waves of New Zealand’s most-loved beach, it’s worth taking a pit-stop at Ōhope Village to enjoy the laid-back shopping scene. Distinct and 4Artsake both offer beautiful giftware, art, clothing and accessories.
Make your bed
George Street Linen is one of those rare retail gems that is a delight to discover. Browse the ultimate selection of New Zealand-designed premium bed linen and bedding in a charming, light-filled store, abundantly stocked with inspirational textiles, home fragrances, and giftware. Their knowledgeable, friendly team prides themselves on hands-on service and passion for the brand.
110 The Strand
GEORGESTREETLINEN.COM
Style by design
Stocking top New Zealand and international labels – Deadly Ponies, Kathryn Wilson, NYNE, Elk, Lolly's Laundry, Zoe Kratzmann, Briarwood and POM Amsterdam among them – Capiz is centrally located in the heart of the shopping precinct. Its carefully curated range has made it Whakatāne’s boutique destination of choice for designer fashion, footwear, handbags and accessories.
156 The Strand
CAPIZ.CO.NZ
Other events
West End Wiggle 2025
Friday, April 11 – Sunday April 13
A traditional longboard festival presented by Salt Air Surf, this weekend includes lots of surf, art and music. This will be the event’s sixth year running.
Farming Like Grandad & Country Fair
Saturday, April 12
Experience farming as it used to be. Clydesdale horses, sheep shearing, farm animals, tractors, and farm machinery, food, music and much more for a fun day out for the whole family.
Ōhiwa Oyster Festival
Saturday, May 17
Don't miss out on this unforgettable celebration of oysters and local culture at Wharfside Ōhope. The opening ceremony will blend oyster appreciation with cultural celebration. Savour mouthwatering oysters, explore local food stalls, and groove to live entertainment from 12pm to 4pm.
Ramping up
Shaun Boucher is an internationally acclaimed skateboarding champion who wants to help others become one too. And that includes you.
Shaun Boucher is an internationally acclaimed skateboarding champion who wants to help others become one too. And that includes you.
words Karl Puschmann | photos Katie Cox
“You could almost classify it as like a gladiator pit,” Shaun Boucher smiles. “There’s big grandstands, the energy’s high, the crowd’s cheering, people are clapping and you’re standing at the bottom.”
On this sunny morning at a café in Pāpāmoa, we’re not discussing mortal combat. Instead, Shaun’s describing the electric atmosphere of a skateboarding competition.
“You do your last run, they announce you’ve won and you hold your board up and everyone’s clapping… it’s hard to describe that feeling and how special it is.”
It may be hard to articulate but it’s a feeling the 31-year-old pro skateboarder knows well. The Mount Maunganui local has been competing at the highest level of skateboarding, both here and internationally, for over a decade. Ask him what competitions he’s won and he struggles to recall them all.
“I’ve won the New Zealand Bowl skateboarding title about six times in
a row — potentially maybe seven. I won the New Zealand Park skateboarding championships about two years ago in Gisborne. I’ve won the Australian Bowl Riding championships and the Australian Street Skating championships,” he says. “Probably the biggest one was the
Dew Tour over in Long Beach in California, about four or five years ago. I’d been meaning to go back, but then COVID hit and the contests shut down.”
Shaun’s journey to become one of Aotearoa’s most celebrated skaters
has incredibly humble beginnings. And, funnily enough, doesn’t even
start on a skateboard.
“I was actually rollerblading. But my brother, his friends and my close friends were all skateboarding so I felt like I was the black sheep,” he grins. While they didn’t peer pressure him into trading the blades for a deck, they did subtly encourage him to give it a go.
“I’d go down to the Mount skateboard ramp and they slowly but surely brought their spare or old skateboard parts down until I had enough to eventually assemble a skateboard.”
Having cobbled his first skateboard together from these recycled parts
he quickly fell in love with the sport and the social aspect it provided.
“The big reason I got into skating was the freedom it gave me. It was a great form of transport and I could get everywhere,” he says. “And, I felt
like people could resonate with me. Skateboarding is like an identity as well.”
It soon consumed him. He not only hung up his rollerblades but also his rugby boots, preferring the challenge of constantly improving and bettering his abilities as opposed to competing against rival teams.
“I grew up in the Bayfair Estate area and the skate park was right there.
So I used to skate before school, after school, and every weekend religiously,” he says. “I just lived down at the skate park.”
This, he says, is the secret to his success. It’s not supernatural talent or blessed good fortune, just good old-fashioned hard work.
“If you do want to get really good at something, you’ve got to put countless hours in. I wasn’t your naturally talented skateboarder. I struggled early on. However, hard work beats talent at the end of the day, if talent’s not ready to work hard. I channelled that mentality and started to develop my skills and get better and better.”
Now, he’s helping other people develop their skills. When he started skating there wasn’t any way to learn other than by doing. Over the years he’s watched people who had potential gradually lose interest in the sport after becoming discouraged at their lack of progress. He figured if they had proper guidance and instruction they’d flourish instead of feeling frustrated. So he decided to do something about it.
Having recently returned to the Mount after living in Australia’s Gold Coast for the past seven years he started Mana Skateboarding and began offering private and group skateboard lessons at the Mount Maunganui skate park.
“I found it really profound when I came back. I was like, ‘I'll just start slow,’ and build up my clientele but I got swamped straight away.”
Then he laughs and says, “I was not expecting that.”
Right now he’s teaching kids as young as five through to teenagers. There’s even a bunch of parents reconnecting with their teenage pastime.
“They see their kids doing it and see how much fun they're having and
they want to have that fun too. I feel like we're cultivating a community
down there.”
As well as teaching the fundamentals to beginners and pro techniques to more experienced skaters, Shaun also emphasises skating’s wider benefits.
“I teach the basics and get them enjoying the pure joys of what skating can bring to your life. It’s creative, builds confidence and gives people a sense of purpose.”
An unexpected offshoot is that teaching skating is also doing the same for him.
“I definitely feel like I’ve stepped into that ‘teacher’ realm and like I’ve owned it,” he says. “That feeling of helping someone achieve something makes you feel so good. It’s inspiring and makes you want to do a better job the next day and be a better teacher and role model for these kids.”
Then he smiles and says, “I’m really enjoying it. I feel like it’s taking me on a pretty good journey.”
Island bliss
UNO editor Hayley Barnett experiences the ultimate family getaway: Fiji’s Plantation Island Resort, where luxury meets value with endless fun for kids and adults alike.
UNO editor Hayley Barnett experiences the ultimate family getaway: Fiji’s Plantation Island Resort, where luxury meets value with endless fun for kids and adults alike.
As a family of four, it can be difficult to find a place to holiday that won’t break the bank and that caters to both parents as well as kids.
Most of the time, you either have to bake in a tent or come up with $700 per night for a cabin in the middle of a campsite. But did you know there’s a gem in the Pacific Ocean that offers everything you could want from a family holiday in a five-star location for a fraction of that cabin price?
Plantation Island Resort has been around for more than 50 years and is still owned and operated by the family who built it − and it shows. Everything here is set up with families in mind. Convenience, comfort, and most importantly fun were obviously all high on the agenda when it came to setting up this island paradise.
We booked five nights in October and by the end of our holiday we could all agree it wasn’t nearly enough. Here’s a rundown of everything we managed to squeeze in between sunbathing and cannonballing around and into all four pools.
DO
Handline fishing
Our seven-year-old, Oscar, often pressures us to organise a fishing trip, but we don’t own a boat and we aren't what you'd call ’boat people’. So the Handline Fishing Tour seemed as good a time as any to tick it off the list and satisfy him for a wee while. It turned out to be the highlight of the whole trip for Oscar. He caught eight fish! Of course, they were of the tropical variety and he had to throw them all back, but he didn’t mind. And Dad was relieved to get the beautifully-patterned creatures back into the water where they belonged.
The inflatable water park is a must for kids.
Hair braiding
For regular vacation goers at Plantation, hair braiding is a bit of a holiday tradition, especially for young girls. It takes around an hour and 40 minutes, during which time you can choose to have your own treatment or simply order a cocktail while gossiping with the staff. My daughter, Poppy, opted for the corn rows over the box braids. She walked away very pleased with her choice and took every opportunity she could to get an unhealthy amount of selfies by the pool.
Underwater Museum
One of the best parts of Plantation Island is the most hidden − its reef. It lies so close to the resort that you can simply swim out from the shore, or in our case practically swim out from our bure. Once you get there, a quirky underwater museum awaits snorkellers, full of fish and coral. There are golf buggies, a dining scene with a table and chairs, and various other objects to attract fish to the area. One of the resort’s resident marine biologists, John, swam out with us to make sure we found the museum and the reef itself. We had swum out the day before but had completely missed the reef, so it was great to have a guide show us exactly where to go. John explained that the pieces in the museum were put there to encourage coral conservation and growth. Plantation Island is big on conservation, so much so that they created what is called the ‘Bula Reef’ − a giant man-made coral reef in the shape of the word ‘Bula’, which means ‘hello’ in Fijian. It’s the world’s largest underwater coral display. Although it’s not a public snorkeling site, Dulcinea Tours do once-per-week visits where guests can view the reef from above the water.
Taking full advantage of the free water equipment
Afternoon Delight snorkelling tour
There are a few different privately-owned charter companies offering boat trips around the surrounding islands. We jumped on a trip with Dulcinea and headed out to Castaway Resort’s reef for some more adventurous snorkelling. A short boat ride took us along Malolo Island, giving us a glimpse into island life for those residing on the island as well as other resorts. Our driver pointed out a small island to our left – ‘Google Island’. Apparently, the search engine company owns it. We jumped off the boat close to Castaway’s water park and snorkelled over the coral reef. The reef itself was large and colourful and teeming with tropical fish and marine life. We spent half an hour there then moved on to Funky Fish Surf Resort for some drinks and snacks before heading back to our slice of paradise.
Hayley’s family poolside at Plantation.
Paddleboarding, kayaking and water park
Most of the water activities and gear is free for guests and can be picked up from the boat shed at the main beach of the resort. We took advantage of the paddleboards and kayaks and journeyed out to the water park with the kids. They would have stayed there all day if they could, but kids under eight need supervision and after a couple of hours it was time for my daily cocktail on the beach. There’s also a new Jungle Water Park which costs FJ$10 per person and consists of two trampolines, a slide and Tarzan swing. My kids could barely handle the bouncy castle water park so we flagged the more extreme version.
Kids’ Club
On arrival we were given a timetable of all the Kids’ Club activities, of which there are many. We highlighted those that the kids were keen on and planned our days around it. There is everything from tie dye t-shirt making to crab hunting, and the staff were very warm and friendly, so we felt good about leaving them in their capable hands.
Lomani Island Resort & Spa
When the all-day fun fests get a little much for parents, it’s nice to know there’s an adults-only sanctuary right next door. Plantation has its own spa with plenty on offer, but Lomani gives you that extra peace and quiet you might need for some time out. We escaped halfway through our trip to experience the couple’s massage right on the beach. The idyllic surroundings and the resort itself was just the calming activity we were looking for. Lomani Island Resort is right now building a brand new spa with four rooms, an ice bath, plunge pool, sauna and relaxation deck − to offer a full wellness experience − which will open in February 2025.
EAT
Copra Restaurant
This is the main restaurant that offers a buffet breakfast until 10am every day. It’s also the best restaurant in terms of views. Situated right on the beach, guests can opt for the veranda-style dining room and watch the kids’ activities on the beach at night. It does offer buffet dining every night, however, so if you prefer a la carte, the other restaurants might be more preferable.
Copra Restaurant.
BOWL
BOWL only opened in October 2024 and is already one of the most popular eateries on the island. Offering a variety of fresh poke bowls using local fish, tuna and chicken, it’s the perfect poolside meal for adults wanting to break away from the usual family fare of burgers and pizza for lunch.
Black Coral
This is a must-dine at least once on your trip. We ended up there three times, not just for the delicious food, but also for the convenient location. It’s right next to the Kids’ Club and there’s a playground directly in front of the dining area. The steaks (including tuna) are cooked on hot volcanic stone, making this a unique dining experience.
Gourmet delights at Black Coral.
Tavola
Tavola Restaurant and Bar is the newest dine-in restaurant, opening only a few years ago. It’s next to our favourite pool spot and became a santuary for our family to swim and dine. The restaurant offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a variety of different cuisines, from Italian to Thai.
Flame Tree Restaurant
This eatery is located at Lomani Island Resort & Spa next door, the adults-only retreat. It offers a lot of local ingredients and plenty of options. The dinner menu is great for meat lovers, and the cocktails are on point.
TOP TIPS
Join the Facebook page
‘We Love Plantation Island Resort Fiji’ offers advice from guests past and present, and allows you to ask any burning questions you might have before your trip.
Bula Bikes
These are the resort bikes that are suitable for all ages. The kids loved riding around the island on these and it gave them a bit of freedom to get about on their own.
Lookout point
There’s a track behind the resort that winds up to a lookout point, which offers views across the island. It only takes about 15 minutes to get up, but wear good walking shoes as it can get a little slippery on the track.
Water stations
You will be given water bottles on arrival. Save them and fill them up at the clean drinking water stations around the resort. There’s one next to the Coco Hutt which we used each morning.
Liquor store
The resort recently opened its own liquor store so you can stock up and have a wee tipple in your room from time to time.
Growing places
Four years of work is beginning to bloom at Hamilton Gardens. We find out about what’s sprouted up and the seeds already planted for the future.
Four years of work is beginning to bloom at Hamilton Gardens. We find out about what’s sprouted up and the seeds already planted for the future.
words KARL PUSCHMANN
Italian Renaissance Garden.
If you’ve never visited the Hamilton Gardens before, you’re probably wondering what all the fuss is about.
That was certainly true for me when last summer my wife suggested we spend a family afternoon there. An afternoon! It seemed a dubious suggestion. How could a garden possibly hope to hold our children’s interest – and if I’m being completely honest, mine as well – for longer than 10 minutes? I voiced my concerns and she just smiled and said, “they’re really good,” and that was that. After lunch we packed the kids in the car and went.
It turns out she had dramatically undersold the place. Walking through the enclosed gardens was a complete delight that enchanted even this naysayer. It felt like walking into a fantastical picture book, where wonder and surprise was planted around every corner and charming detail bloomed all around.
Each of the 18 different themed gardens is thoroughly unique, and represent key moments in world history when there was a shift in civilisation. Some take cues from history, like the Italian Renaissance Garden which shows how man had learnt to tame nature through intricate trellis, grand courtyards and careful manicuring, others highlight different cultures approach to gardens, such as the The Japanese Garden of Contemplation, which offers peace and tranquility amongst its carefully placed stones, while others are full of whimsy and imagination like the Surrealist Garden, where reality twists in oversized and unexpected ways. Weaving throughout, an unmistakable Aotearoa flavour.
Japanese Garden of Contemplation.
It was a fantastic and fantastical afternoon. One that I thought could not be improved upon. But, again, the Hamilton Gardens has proven me wrong.
Just a couple of months ago Hamilton Gardens unveiled the brand new Entry Precinct to the exquisite Enclosed Gardens. This modernisation of the entrance area can be considered the fertile soil for the future growth of the gardens, the plans of which are already mapped out and designed through to 2050.
“This is the realisation of four years of work and gives us the foundation for moving forward,” Lucy Ryan, the Hamilton Garden’s director says. “We have the new visitor centre, we’ve refreshed the whole pavilion and improved visitor wayfinding. We took the opportunity to better embed the Mana Whenua narrative as well. It was an amazing project to be involved in.”
Lucy explains that the Garden’s popularity was the impetus for the project. As Hamilton’s most popular attraction up to 5000 visitors per day were coming through the doors in peak season. The old facility simply couldn’t cope with the numbers.
The new centre also allowed the Gardens to implement their long-signposted change to instigate an entry fee for those over 16. Hamilton residents can still visit for free after registering for a MyGardens Pass. Lucy says 40,000 Hamiltonians have already signed up for the pass.
Introducing this system may have been the pragmatic reason for the upgrade, but it wasn’t the only one. “We wanted to ensure the Mana Whenua story and perspective was woven throughout the entry precinct area design,” Lucy explains, saying that was something that was incredibly important to the team and the Gardens itself. “And the other big overarching one, as corny as it sounds, was that we needed a world-class entry to match our world-class gardens. It was all about the visitor experience.”
Now that the Entry Precinct has blossomed, Lucy and her team are now cultivating the seeds that have already been planted for the Garden's next three big expansions. Fortunately, there won’t be another four-year wait for the first of these to bloom.
Hamilton Gardens Visitor Centre.
“The designs and the civil infrastructure have been done. The groundwork and concrete work, all that sort of stuff for all three gardens is in place already,” she says. “Our big focus now is the Medieval Garden. That should be open by this time next year.
“And then it’s right onto the Pasifika and Baroque Gardens. The designs are completed, so it's just the build factor.”
Each of these will bring a new chapter to the gardens. The Medieval Garden explores the spread of Christianity and charity, the Pasifika Garden focuses on the navigators who explored the seas and the age of navigation, while the Baroque Garden will be a showy affair that highlights how technological advances led to the spectacle of wealth during that period.
Medieval Garden.
This leads nicely into the wealth of events and activities happening at the Gardens over the summer. Every Sunday from 4pm to 8pm Gourmet in the Gardens on the Rhododendron Lawn sees the Garden’s floral scents complemented with the sizzling aroma of food trucks and the rich bird song is accompanied by live entertainment. The popular audio guides and Highlights tour add richness to the experience, and the night-time Pekapeka tours – bat-spotting – is held on select Tuesday and Thursday evenings throughout November to March. While the bats can sometimes be shy, Lucy says they’re big chatterboxes that you’ll hear as you walk through the gardens under the stars.
“You have little bat radars to help try and spot them in the zone,” she says, before adding, “And as you walk along the path looking for them, you'll see glow worms all along the river path, which is really cool.”
And, of course, the Hamilton Arts Festival will be running from the end of February through to March, taking over the whole precinct area and putting on shows within the enclosed gardens as well.
It all contributes to making Hamilton Gardens much, much more than you might expect. “It’s beautiful and it’s gorgeous and it’s delightful with a huge amount of narrative and stories sitting under each garden,” Lucy smiles. “It’s like a magic carpet ride or a journey through space and time.
Eastern eats
Whether you’re planning a holiday in the Eastern Bay or thinking of a day trip, you’ll find a range of eateries for all tastes and some notable spots for a drink or two.
Whether you’re planning a holiday in the Eastern Bay or thinking of a day trip, you’ll find a range of eateries for all tastes and some notable spots for a drink or two.
Cigol.
Whakatāne’s CBD has come of age in recent years. The attractive and bustling town centre makes it easy to roam with a range of boutique shops and tempting eateries. With many outdoor dining options, it’s easy to soak up Whakatāne’s plentiful sunshine and admire the impressive town gardens. Veer off the main drag and you’ll also find a few hidden gems.
Mata Brewery and Tasting Room
An award-winning family-run business, Mata Brewery offers craft beers and good food. It’s also based at new Ōhope hotspot, Wharfside, over the summer. Check their website for regular live music evenings.
Volk & Co
Volk & Co coffee brew bar is the latest coffee locale in Whakatāne. It specialises in espresso, filter and cold brew coffee, with a changing selection of specialty drinks and hard-to-resist cabinet treats.
Cigol
A mouth-watering menu, including slow-cooked pork belly, stone sizzling bibimbap, Korean fried chicken, Japanese yakitori and much more. Wash it down with a good range of Korean beverages and Asahi on tap.
The Comm
The iconic and historic Commercial Hotel has returned to its former glory, with a modern twist. The Comm brings renowned Good George Co. beverages to Whakatāne, along with awesome food and top-notch service.
The Wagon
These guys know good food. The focus here is on damn good burgers washed down with an equally good brew. Great for takeaways too if you feel like an alfresco dinner overlooking the Whakatāne River as the sun sets.
Café Awa
Seriously good coffee and the best cheese scones in town. Often filled with locals who know a good thing. Sit in the sun on the balcony overlooking boats moored along the riverfront.
Gibbo’s on the Wharf
With fish straight off their boats, Gibbo’s serves the best fish and chips in town. Situated right on the wharf, this is the perfect spot for a casual dinner as the sun sets.
Café 4U
Great vibe, great service, great people, and of course, great food. The counter display here is something to behold – sweet treats and epic scones are impossible to resist. Check out the outdoor courtyard out back.
Cadera.
Ōhope
Although it can be hard to drag yourself away from the waves of New Zealand’s most-loved beach, it’s worth taking a pit-stop at Ōhope Village to enjoy the laid-back dining and shopping scene, perfectly aligned with
beach life. At Wharfside, Port Ōhope you’ll meet a similarly cruisy vibe with the best sunsets in town.
Fisherman's Wharf
It’s no exaggeration to say this is one of the best spots in the Bay. Situated right on the edge of Ōhiwa Harbour, the evening sunsets are superb. Fresh oysters regularly feature on the menu. Stop for a drink on the deck, or enjoy an entire evening with exceptional food.
Moxi Café
Super funky container fit-out and really good coffee. Always buzzing, Moxi has been loved by locals and visitors since inception.
Cadera
A social dining experience at Ōhope Beach. Serving up delicious food and seriously unmissable margaritas, it’s great for groups of any size with a super relaxed vibe, aligning seamlessly with the Ōhope way of life.
Tio Ōhiwa Oyster Farm
Enjoy harbour-to-plate oysters with a side of chips overlooking the water.
Julian’s Berry Farm.
Other notable mentions
The Smokin' Goose
This American Barbecue-style restaurant and beer garden, is just a short drive from Whakatāne CBD. This one is a local favourite!
Drift
Whoever said you can only get a good cheese roll in the South Island? You’ll find them here along with superb coffee and a warm welcome to natter away the morning’s news. Loved by Matatā locals and visitors passing through.
Berry Farms
There’s a reason there are so many berry farms in the Eastern Bay – they grow amazing berries of course! Take your pick from Julian’s Berry Farm and Café, Blueberry Corner and R n Bees.
No reservations
Reliving the spirit of their 20s, with fewer compromises and more surprises, mid-life travellers Sue Hoffart and her husband discover the beauty of making it up as they go along.
Reliving the spirit of their 20s, with fewer compromises and more surprises, mid-life travellers Sue Hoffart and her husband discover the beauty of making it up as they go along.
Reflecting on the Con River, Phong Nha.
There is no good reason to leave Tan Son Nhat International Airport the
way we do, that Wednesday morning in May. My spousal travel buddy cannot explain his urge to wave away perfectly good buses and taxis in favour of lugging our backpacks 8.5km to downtown Ho Chi Minh. After 22 hours of travel. In 38°C heat. C’mon, my normally sensible husband insists. It’ll be fun. I’m so shocked – the ill-advised ideas are usually mine – that I agree to mark the untethering of our middle-aged, middle-class lives with that long, hot walk.
When we reach our $50 a night hotel, red-faced and grimy, the sole visible employee is dumbfounded. The man has never heard of anyone walking from the airport. Ever.
Uniformed guard outside a government building in Hanoi.
Our four-hour schlep is a bewildering, exhausting, outlandishly sweaty and strangely satisfying way to acclimatise to the frenetic rhythm of Vietnam’s largest city. Crowds and wonder slow our steps. A verdant park gives way to a tangle of black power lines and concrete jungle. Our first purchase feels like a medical necessity; hydrating fresh coconut
water is urgently guzzled through a straw in an alleyway, flesh scooped from the shell with a plastic spoon.
Every road crossing is an act of faith, only slightly less terrifying each time we step into the beeping, unregulated swirl of traffic and trust drivers to veer around us. Motorbike riders wear masks against the pollution while we suck it all in, teetering on the edge of footpaths crowded with yet more motorbikes.
Breakfast fruit at Mekong Pottery Homestay in Vinh Long.
The city is also home to an ornate French Colonial opera house and a deeply sobering war museum. One street is lined with book vendors, while the vast, vibrant flower market is busiest after midnight. At another market, a woman sells dozens of kinds of edible orbs; humble brown hen’s eggs and tiny speckled eggs, preserved eggs, eggs coated in some kind of black crust and eggs wrapped in red and gold.
Saigon – the city’s official Ho Chi Minh moniker hasn’t really caught on with locals – is where we fall back in love with backpacking. Almost three decades have flown since that fat yellow Lonely Planet guide book was hauled through other corners of South East Asia on our backs. In those days, blue Aerogram letters were dispatched with stories from a prison visit in Bangkok, hitchhiking in Malaysia, island hopping to see dragons on Komodo.
Thung chai, or ‘basket boats’, beside the sea in Mui Né.
The in-between years have brought all the trappings of adulthood, from marriage, mortgages and children to appointment diaries and well-planned holidays with wheeled suitcases.
Now that our grown-up lives are on hold, needs have been pared back to overhead locker size, maximum 7kg. No itinerary, no responsibilities, no proper plans for 36 days.
It turns out independent travel has become a whole lot easier since we last attempted it, thanks largely to phones and ubiquitous Wifi. Google Maps gets us to the Hue train station without fuss, and locates the ferry to Cu Lao Cham island.
Lâm Đong Province.
In the mountain town of Da Lat, a translation app helps us discover more about our Russian-speaking hostess. The new travel card leaves old school traveller’s cheques in the dust, with its instant exchange rate calculator and access to automatic teller machines. It also links seamlessly with the same local transport app that Vietnamese city dwellers use. Meanwhile, online booking sites ensure we can always find a bed before arriving in a new town. Sometimes, we change tack and move on quickly. More often, we linger for an extra day or three, choosing a new route for exploratory morning cycle rides through surrounding streets or rice paddies, past incense-scented temples and coffee stalls. Mostly, we stay in inexpensive small hotels with pool, ensuite, bikes, buffet breakfast and beautiful service.
French Colonial architecture, Saigon.
Because this is very definitely not the “please let there be one clean sheet and no fleas” version of backpacking we knew. It feels a little like cheating, with all the joys of making-it-up-as-you-go travel, and none of the hardships. Our budget has improved but so have the roads; plenty are better than highways back home. On local buses, we meet a Filipino mother teaching English in Vietnam, and a delightful medical student from the provinces. The reclining seats and individually curtained cubicles are a far cry from terrifying rides of old, shared with chain smokers and live animals.
In other ways, nothing has changed. Thankfully, my fellow backpacker and I still journey well together and continue to find this type of travel liberating. We both strive for snippets of the language and quiz new friends about politics and religion, history and their family stories.
Bich Dong Pagoda.
At mealtimes, we turn to the street to perch on child-sized plastic stools in bustling little shacks. When language fails us, we point to whatever a neighbour is eating. Then the neighbour will show us how to fold herbs and salad leaves into a particular dish, or extract a spicy stuffed snail from its shell.
Travel tips are still traded with fellow travellers. The motorbike street food tour in Saigon is a must-do, we tell our bright young backpacker friends. Vinh Long, in the Mekong Delta, is wonderfully devoid of tourists. It’s worth rising early there, to bike 10km down a dusty road and watch the sun rise over brick kilns that look like giant terracotta beehives. Quy Nhon is far more popular with Vietnamese tourists than Westerners but it has some fascinating Kiwi links courtesy of medics who have been helping in hospitals since the Vietnamese-American war. Nha Trang, on the other hand, feels far too much like Las Vegas by the sea.
In the north, Hanoi is a heady mix of lakes and leafy boulevards, Old Quarter tradition, glitzy contemporary shopping malls and communist glory. We splash out on a restaurant meal. This one specialises in duck and the balcony is so tiny it can hold only our table for two. On our last night, an impressive downpour clears the crowded streets; monsoon season has begun and it’s time to fly home. For now, though, this place has washed away the years and made us young again.
The best things in life are free
No budget? No problem! Here are some fun, free things to do around the Bay this summer.
No budget? No problem! Here are some fun, free things to do around the Bay this summer.
words KARL PUSCHMANN
Pāpāmoa Hills Cultural Heritage Regional Park
Affectionally known as ‘Pāp Hills’, the former Pa site has become a favourite for walkers and runners thanks to the various tracks it offers to the summit. While most people tackle the 45-minute walk to the top to bask in the stunning panoramic views, there are plenty of other tracks to explore in this 182-hectare park. With seven historic Pa sites to discover and a brand new walking track that has just opened, there are plenty of good reasons to head for the hills.
Ōmokoroa Playground
After its recent million-dollar facelift Ōmokoroa Playground has become a true destination. Sitting right on the beachfront its setting is spectacular, allowing you to sit and enjoy tremendous views of the harbour and back towards Tauranga while the kids make the most of its rejuvenated playground that includes things like mega-swings, a human-sized mouse wheel, climbing nets and even musical equipment, amongst many, many others. Like similar parks, there’s a BBQ facility, but if it’s a morning visit there are cafes nearby for those requiring much-needed coffee.
Kulim Park
Last month, Tauranga City Council held a public vote to find the public’s favourite play space. Sliding into victory was Ōtūmoetai’s Kulim Park. It was a well-earned result as it boasts plenty of attractions for the whole family. Kids love its boisterous playground, there’s a basketball court for older kids to shoot hoops and there’s a fantastic BBQ area for cooking up lunch or an early evening dinner. There are also walking and biking tracks to enjoy plenty of free parking. Factor in its pristine harbourside location and stunning views back to the Mount and you can see why it was a winner.
Pilot Bay
If you’re after something a little less hectic, check out Pilot Bay. This has become a family favourite as it’s less populated and the water on this side of the maunga is far calmer than its neighbour’s surf-friendly waves meaning you don’t have to worry about a rogue wave wiping out the kids. Add its picnic and BBQ areas, the same easy access to the two walks up or around the Mount itself, and a sensational view of the harbour, it’s an attractive choice for those with young kids.
Memorial Park
If you want to go big this summer, then you need to go to the Memorial Park playground. With two huge playgrounds for kids to explore they’re not going to get bored any time soon. There’s a rocket ship with not one, not two, but three slides shooting off it, a swing bridge, tunnels, and a climbing course along with the expected swings and roundabouts and a giant fountain they can splash about in if they get too hot. There’s so much to play on that you’ll want to bring your book as the kids will be occupied for hours. Along with a BBQ lunch, you’ll also want to pack the skateboards and scooters in case they want to drop into the skate park. This is one place where bringing a few bucks could be a good idea as there’s also mini golf and a mini train operating in summer.
Kaiate Falls
One of the most enjoyable bush walks in the Bay is the one-hour loop that takes in the two sensational waterfalls at Kaiate Falls, which is also known as Te Rerekawau Falls. The well-maintained track contains plenty of maps, pictures and descriptions that allow for appreciation and understanding of the environment. The first section of the walk takes in a ‘3-step’ waterfall, while the second leads you to a classic horsetail waterfall with a plunging 15m drop. The trail is best taken at a leisurely pace and is suitable for all ages. If you’re feeling peckish after the walk, there’s a picnic area to enjoy lunch surrounded by nature before the 30-minute drive back to the city.
Head-long, head strong
Rotorua downhill mountain biking star Lachie Stevens-McNab is representing both his town and his nation on the world stage, carrying with him a whole lot of local knowledge, skill and support.
Rotorua downhill mountain biking star Lachie Stevens-McNab is representing both his town and his nation on the world stage, carrying with him a whole lot of local knowledge, skill and support.
WORDS + PHOTOS Jamie Troughton
Earlier this year, Lachie Stevens-McNab finished 32nd in the elite downhill semifinals of the UCI Mountain Bike World Series in Italy. He was just 0.614secs from making the final. That’s not the impressive part. Set in the Italian Alps, the Val di Sole track is known as the ‘Black Snake’; they say there’s venom waiting on every fang-like rock that racers have to bounce over. It’s one of the hardest courses on the circuit, with riders reaching 65km/h as they drop 550m in altitude over the 2.1km distance.
Let’s set the scene a little more. Not only were the rocks lethal-sharp, they were also slippery thanks to a misty rain, ready to send the slightest mistaken line straight into the trunk of one of the most densely-packed pines lining the trail. At this level and at these speeds, the margin between triumph and abject disaster is infinitesimal. This round would eventually see 14 of the world’s best 160 riders fail to even finish.
Hang on – there’s more. Going into this season, the Union-sponsored rider had spent the best part of 18 months either injured or recovering. His 20-year-old frame was aching; he broke his back in 2022, while a lingering ankle injury suffered last year means he still struggles to run. Although he’d qualified 10th after the first run, in a small, dark corner of his brain is always the thought: ‘what if it all goes wrong?’.
And the punchline? Lachie Stevens-McNab completed all but the first 30-odd seconds of his 3mins 57.713secs semifinal run with no back brakes. He smashed his rear disc rotor just after the start, heading through the Trentino Rocks section, sending the pistons awry.
Anyone with even the slightest concept of physics should stop and think that through for a second. Most of us have been over the handle bars at least once in our lives but avoiding that fate, racing down a hazard-strewn mountain, making hundreds of split-second survival decisions, almost defies comprehension.
“To not have a back brake was so gnarly,” Lachie laconically muses. “I didn’t crash and got to the bottom but that was probably the hardest run I’ve ever done and there were definitely bits I should’ve stopped. It was so scary but I just kept going and tried to finish it.”
The Rotorua star has had much better results – a week earlier, he broke through for his first World Cup podium at the Austrian round in Salzburgerland, finishing third. A week before that, he was fastest on course in Poland, only to crash in his final run. And, as this edition went to press, the young tyro had just picked up his best elite world championship result in Andorra, the leading Kiwi in 16th spot.
But if we’re judged by our hardest battles rather than our finest, then his astonishing, headlong descent down a hill in the Dolomites is particularly revealing; the competitiveness, the desire, the unreasonable skill and the tenacity to keep going.
Those that have known the two-wheeled tyro for any length of time will just nod, sagely.
The eldest of three intrepid boys and the son of two dedicated parents, Lachie is, possibly above all, the product of an extraordinary environment. Halfway through his third year, there was the blonde tearaway caked in mud and diving into a soggy puddle at the bottom of the Skyline gondola in Rotorua, while the 2006 UCI World Mountain Biking Championships raged around him.
If ever there was an infusion of environment into character, this was it, as the sleepy geothermal town transformed into a genuine global mountain biking mecca.
So many things have shaped Rotorua into such an influential place for a young rider, starting with the volcanic, pumice-ridden terrain – they call it ‘aero-dirt’ – which drains rain so quickly and makes riding year-round so feasible. There are the sweeping hills funnelling into the town basin and, crucially, continued access granted by the iwi-owned forestry operation.
And then there’s the community. “We’ve been a real mountain bike town for a number of years, where most cars have a bike rack on the back or they’re utes with a pad over the tailgate,” long-time MTB enthusiast Dave Donaldson explains. “It's not down to any one individual – more a community that’s been inspired by the mountain biking lifestyle we’re lucky to enjoy – and it just gives me a warm feeling.”
The 73-year-old is a former president of the Rotorua Mountain Bike Club, a former policeman and former deputy mayor of Rotorua. With prodigious support from an enthusiastic committee and especially his wife Shreeve, he was a key figure in getting the world championships to Rotorua all those years ago.
“I’ve no doubt that event inspired a bunch of young locals, and Lachie
joins a long list of home-grown ambassadors for the sport here.” He points to current Rotorua-grown stars Tuhoto-Ariki Pene and Jenna Hastings, the likes of Louis Hamilton who, as an 11-year-old, was the ‘sweeper’ at the 2006 Worlds, and Tauranga-based former stars Jon Hume and Vanessa Quin.
BMX beginnings
Pretty soon after his 2006 mud exploits, Stevens-McNab was off on two wheels. Dad Steve – a veteran of the rafting and adventure sports industry – also loved a bit of motocross and as soon as his eldest ditched training wheels, he was fitted out on a 50cc Peewee motorbike.
Coming back from a ride one day, the inseparable pair passed the Rotorua BMX club track and young Lachie was entranced. Soon, he was spending every available hour there.
Even sooner, his desire to win came shining through. By six, he was a BMX world champion. By 11, he’d won three world titles and three runner-ups. Younger brothers Wyatt and Stirling followed him into the sport and Lachie became great mates with Rico Bearman, who has just competed in BMX at the Paris Olympics.
“Every day after school, he’d be asking to go to the track or the forest and I used to have to say no, just to give him a rest from his bike. It was just mad,” mum Kylee Stevens recalls. “He and Rico really pushed each other growing up, and it was awesome. BMX was amazing family time – every weekend, we’d be going somewhere different to ride and Lachie just loved it.”
Sporting DNA
Kylee has a decent sporting pedigree of her own. She spent 12 years in the White Sox, New Zealand women’s softball team, and her father was a tough-as-teak policeman – at one stage serving with Dave Donaldson – and 42-game provincial rugby flanker for Wellington.
From an early age, Kylee and Steve could see that their eldest son was built a little different. “We kept him busy because he was always so active. And he’s always been quite calculating, from a young age. He wasn’t fearless but he would quickly work out if he could do something or not.”
BMX fulfilled the racing urge for Lachie but eventually – inevitably – the Whakarewarewa Forest would come calling. “We went to my last world champs for BMX and the year after that was going to be in Columbia. I was beginning to understand how much money my parents were spending and I wasn’t sure I wanted them to keep spending if I wasn’t really into it. I got my first mountain bike when I was 13 and did my first race soon after and I just started riding more and more in the forest.”
He first conquered Taniwha – Rotorua’s iconic national downhill trail – as an 11-year-old and by his mid-teens, he’d morphed from a wide-eyed enthusiast to a fully-fledged competitor. He rode in the Oceania champs in 2019, won his first national title in 2020 (under-17) and added his first open national crown this year, as well as his first Crankworx Rotorua downhill title.
“I remember thinking, when I was racing juniors and was 10 seconds off the elite times, 'how on earth could I go 10 seconds faster?’ and all of a sudden, this year, I’m hitting those times.”
Riding the talent wave
One of his early heroes is now a friendly rival on the world stage. Brook Macdonald has been one of New Zealand’s finest downhillers in the past two decades, winning the 2009 junior world title in Canberra and accumulating World Cup podium finishes ever since.
“It’s been a long time since we have had such a wave of good riders come out of New Zealand but it seems like we’ve got more depth than ever, with riders like Lachie, who has had a breakout season and found form with consistent results and a podium along the way,” 32-year-old Brook says. “Kids are starting from such a young age and developing skills so quickly, and we have so much in the way of bike parks and facilities, which puts them in a spot of endless opportunity.”
The key to success, the veteran explains, is consistency – getting everything dialled coming into a season, with comprehensive testing and plenty of miles under the belt.
And that means staying injury-free, which in downhill racing is nigh impossible. Lachie estimates he’s broken more than 40 bones in his body over his racing career, mostly in his arms and wrists, though twin vertebra fractures in 2022 at the world championships in France highlighted how serious the sport can be.
“I hate watching,” his mum confesses. “I just feel sick until they’re down safe. There are huge consequences, going so fast down such a steep gradient, with so many trees, roots and rocks. Injuries are going to happen and you just hope they’re not going to be life-changing.”
That’s certainly influenced how Lachie rides these days. “I don’t try and throw the biggest whips on jumps these days – it’s not worth it – and the biggest thing is that when I’m playing these days, I’m not playing too hard. I’m not going to stop having fun on my bike but I don’t want to be having dumb crashes.”
It’s a level-headed approach from a 20-year-old but somewhat appropriate from one who can sense a big future. “I realised the opportunity I had a couple of years ago and I don’t want to throw that away. I try to make sure I’ve done the work and make sure there’s nothing I haven’t done. There is so much shit you can’t control but as long as I’ve done everything I can, what happens, happens.”
Weekend in the city
A girls’ getaway to the Big Smoke doesn’t disappoint.
A girls’ getaway to the Big Smoke doesn’t disappoint.
Having lived in Aotearoa’s largest city for many years of my adult life, I’m
no stranger to its amazing attractions. But, as a city does, Auckland seems to transform every time I return. New shops, restaurants and hotels pop up faster than an Intercity bus on Hobson Street at rush hour.
So when a friend suggested we leave our families for a weekend in the Big Smoke, I jumped at the chance. Shopping, cocktails, amazing food and great company – what more do you need from a girls’ getaway? Said friend arrived early on Friday to pick me up. In jumped two other tired mums, and we all miraculously mustered up the energy to head straight for the shops.
Sylvia Park
Sylvia Park is perfectly positioned for anyone south of Auckland. We pulled right in off the motorway in time for lunch at one of the many restaurants at the mall’s alluring food alley near the entrance. After some traditional Vietnamese pho – and some not-so-traditional cocktails – at Vietflames, we hit the shops. We only had a couple of hours to spare so prioritised all the major brands like Zara, H&M, Country Road, Decjuba and Gorman, as well as the two big make-up and skincare chains, Sephora and Mecca. Yes, we have a few of these in the Bay, but the bigger offerings provide far more variety and options.
Westfield Mall Newmarket + Nuffield Street
The next mall on the hit list was one I hadn’t visited in years. It may have just opened last time I was here, and boy has it changed. Newmarket’s Westfield Mall offers all your usual middle-of-the-road stores but also has great women’s clothing shops like Assembly Label, Sass and Bide, Seed Heritage and COS, as well as the high-end stores such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and the luxe department store David Jones, all of which I successfully avoided.
Three hours free parking gave us just enough time to get through the mall. The building is also perfect for kids with a covered playground, Event Cinemas and plenty of food options.
The top floor is dedicated to dine-in eateries, while the food court offers plenty of healthy food options, and your usual takeaway fare.
Of course, we had to get across the road to Nuffield Street too. A jewellery sale at Karen Walker had us standing outside in line for 20 minutes just to get a look at the new collection. Once we entered the store, free coffee and bowls of candy kept our energy and spirits up just enough to meander down the rest of Nuffield Street, to experience all its great offerings.
Ponsonby Road
Ponsonby has always been a boutique haven for shoppers, but since the addition of Ponsonby Central it now has the glue to hold it all together – and a pinpoint for the Uber to stop smack bang in the middle of the energetic suburb.
Still staying in line with the boutique-focused vibe, Ponsonby Central offers pop-up stores and cafés but also a vintage shop, a food market and Wallace Cotton, which remains a permanent fixture.
Across the road are two of my favourite stores – the Women’s Book Store and Mag Nation, and a bit further down is the famous Scotties Boutique and Zambesi. Of course you can’t go past Workshop and Karen Walker (again), and the many little vintage shops tucked between bars and cafés. I could stay here all day.
Commercial Bay
This new mall in downtown Auckland is obviously designed to cater for the harbour cruisers, but there’s a great amount of variety for your casual shopper here too. It has everything from H&M, General Pants and Lululemon, to Kiwi designer stores, Calvin Klein and Hugo Boss. There’s also some great eatery options with fine dining restaurants such as Ahi, PONI and a whole lot more upstairs.
STAY
QT Auckland
When looking for accommodation, QT Auckland suited us to a T. Centrally located between the Viaduct and Wynyard Quarter, the hotel is a short walk from the downtown shops and restaurants, and a quick Uber to Ponsonby, Parnell and Newmarket.
Its quirky decor is surprising when you walk in from the street. The 20-year-old repurposed office building still fits in with its commercial neighbourhood, yet the interior’s sophisticated character, combined with its avant-garde style, makes you feel as if you’ve travelled to Paris or Berlin. We were offered bubbles on arrival and invited to the rooftop bar where they were celebrating the addition of a new bubbly to their menu. We were planning to go straight up but were so impressed with our rooms that we decided to lounge around in them for a while beforehand.
EAT
QT Rooftop Bar
On our first night at the QT we didn’t even think about leaving the building. We headed up to the top level for a few drinks before dinner, which was booked down on ground level at Esther. The views at the rooftop bar are spectacular, and the cocktails went down a treat after a hard day of shopping. Sipping divine drinks while enjoying the stunning views of the Viaduct and Waitemata Harbour was just what we needed. The place was already packed at 5pm, and somehow got busier as the night wore on. This was obviously the place to be.
Esther
Fronted by top international chef, Sean Connolly, everything about this Mediterranean-inspired restaurant is designed to impress, especially the
food. The slow-cooked roasted lamb was a definite highlight, along with the Truffle Fonduta with ciabatta and black Perigord truffle.
Even breakfast is quite the international food journey with strong Middle Eastern, Asian and Spanish flavours to get us ready for another day of shopping. Dishes such as the Khach a Puri, Baked Shakshuka and Tortilla Espanola were a delight to the taste buds, enough energy for the body and offered just the right amount of stodge to soak up our cocktails from the night before.
Daphnes Bar Taverna
Keeping with our choice of old-timey-turned-trendy-named restaurants, we booked in at Daphnes in Ponsonby for Saturday night. The service was on par with the incredible food, especially when one over-excited friend accidentally flung a whole glass of red wine all over another friend’s newly purchased white Karen Walker blouse. The waiter was immediately to the rescue with laundry tips and expert dabbing. As well as the great wine selection, I would highly recommend the raw scallops,
oyster mushroom skewers and grilled chicken.
Turkish delight
Bridging Europe and Asia, Nicky Adams explores the melting pot that is Turkey.
Bridging Europe and Asia, Nicky Adams explores the melting pot that is Turkey.
PHOTOS Nicky adams + supplied
Throw Turkey into a travel conversation, and you’re sure to get an animated response. From those that looped it in on their OEs, to those who are fizzing to book their own trip.
Seen as a rite of passage for many New Zealanders, with the deep connection to Anzac Bay held dear, most Kiwis would admit to this being on the bucket list.
A land that offers diversity in spades, there is the multi-cultural pull of Istanbul, where east really does quite literally meet west, the opportunity to pay your respects at Anzac Bay, the magic of Cappadocia with its homes built into the hills and underground network, and stunning Mediterranean beaches. And this is just the tip of the iceberg.
Exploring the tunnels and caves of Kaymakli underground city.
I visited Istanbul over 20 years ago, and it was a revelation to look at the city again with a fresh perspective. The blend of cultures is something you can’t take for granted and was a real joy to see. Side by side Muslims and Christians rush around, and the city celebrates both faiths with a rich history. The landmarks are of course every bit as spectacular as they appear in the glossy pages of travel mags; yes, there are crowds and queues but time it right and you can get lucky. And it’s certainly worth the wait – the Blue Mosque is majestic, Hagia Sophia breathtaking, the Topkapi Palace a symbol of Ottoman splendour, and the Dolmabahce Palace (on the shore of the Bosphorus) the architecturally innovative ‘upgraded’ home to the Sultans from the 1800s. Walk through the Yerebatan Underground Basilica Cistern built by the Romans, a strangely beautiful attraction, mesmerising and eerie in equal measure. Meanwhile a trip along the Bosphorus by night lets you hear the beating heart of the city as it shimmers and shines in all its glory.
The balloons create a surreal day-break vista.
It’s hard to resist the most touristy of tourist attractions – a visit to the Grand Bazaar. This is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world dating back to 1453, and the icing on the tourist cake is a guided walk across the rooftop. Showcased in Skyfall, the James Bond movie where Daniel Craig shot across on his motorbike, you’ll find yourself balancing on teeny-weeny ledge ways high above the city, putting one foot tentatively in front of the other. Those with height issues would find this marginally stomach churning (no OSH here) – but the vista below is incredible. Both inside and outside the Bazaar are gazillions of tiny stalls with marketeers peddling their wares; some fabulous, some not so much. It’s hard to get out without having committed to a Turkish rug, which, if you do your research and buy from someone reliable, is potentially the purchase of a lifetime. If you don’t get a rug you have to at least buy the Turkish delight – these delicately flavoured jellies are addictive. The sweet shops are themselves an experience, rammed with ornate delights you’ll likely be regaled with stories of the Ottoman Emperors, the birth of boiled sweets and a million other things you never knew, while being pumped with Turkish coffee and baklava. This is a very hospitable nation.
The ancient, cobbled streets are bathed in baking sunshine but cooled by a breeze from the Baltic – ice cream vendors are everywhere, and pathways are peppered with tiny kittens and wide-eyed cats. Just as you wonder how they’re all so well fed, you see a passerby open their handbag and scatter cat food for these street dwellers. Feeding the strays is apparently a quirk of the city, but with the end game of keeping rats at bay – the Turks are no fools. The tradespeople and cab drivers are also always up for a bit of bartering – it doesn’t take long to get past the embarrassment of a good haggle.
Istanbul’s grand Blue Mosque.
Istanbul is a feast not just for the senses, but also the stomach. I chose
to do a walking food tour through the city; it was wonderful touring the back streets, where cafes are crammed into the narrowest lanes, serving Turkish tea to customers on slouchy sofas. Stopping at historic sights and trying every type of traditionally-made Turkish fare from breakfast eggs to spicy koftas and Doner Kebab, I was loving the rich, flavoursome dishes – until I was faced with the minced lamb intestines, at which point I became extremely squeamish. The older parts of Istanbul are captivating and sit alongside the newer flasher areas – as a city it certainly feels wealthy, and the lavish hotels reflect this – the tourists are as diverse as the natives. Staying at an international chain certainly offered every luxury – but came at a cost, Turkey is not the cheap country some remember from their backpacking days. It’s easy to get around, taxis are plentiful, but some run without meters so it’s worth having an idea of fare otherwise you’re fair game to be charged a very steep tourist rate. As a place with a turbulent past, it was heartening that everywhere you looked there was a strong police presence, and entrance to every hotel and mall involved a bag screen.
Moving on from Istanbul, an air-conditioned coach ride to Anzac Bay was an easy way to travel, and still allowed us to get there in good time to thoroughly immerse ourselves in the experience. It is so many things to so many people, and deserves the time spent walking along the beach and meandering through the gravestones, reading the inscriptions and thinking about the huge sacrifice and loss. It’s emotional on a different level, even if you have no direct link to the fallen soldiers. The on-site museum is also a place of reverence; nicely laid out to give visitors the opportunity to become engrossed in the moment.
Akbas Cemetery and Memorial honouring fallen Turkish soldiers during Gallipoli.
Travelling onto Cappadocia, a region of central Turkey known for its otherworldly landscapes, is to experience a different side to Turkey altogether. Soft volcanic rock formations amongst undulating hillsides feel closer to a film set than reality. Again, the history is at the forefront, as you weave through dusty streets, with houses, hotels, bars, and restaurants all burrowed deep into the rock face. Staying in a boutique hotel with rooms set high in the rocks, this felt luxurious, even though the room was reminiscent of something from The Flintstones. Of course, Cappadocia is home to the balloon rides – and as someone who visualised my time would be spent poolside with feet firmly on the ground, I was not planning on adding this to my ‘to-do’ list. Nevertheless, I dug deep, and I’m so glad that I did – the whole experience felt reassuringly safe; drifting cloudlike above beautiful dusty landscapes, the skies filled at sunrise with a fleet of colourful balloons was a natural as well as physical high. This area is peppered with ancient underground labyrinthine cities built by residents sheltering from invading forces, and for the non-claustrophobic, a tour through Kaymakli, the most historic of them all, is a must. Thought to date back to as early as the fourth century BC it’s insane to think whole communities lived self-sufficiently underground for years at a time – and even more crazy to think for some it was as recent as the second world war.
Istanbul’s Eastern and Western influences, create a dynamic city rich in history and culture.
If you want artisanal keepsakes, then this is the place to find them, as silver and local pottery are the artefacts to shop for in this part of Turkey. Ornate pieces are hard to resist, and there are plenty of manufacturing shops that mean you can be confident you’re buying the real deal. A visit to this area wouldn’t be complete without exploring the famous Fairy Chimneys. Located deep in the dusty hillsides, these natural marvels are simply incredible. Wandering among these distinctive landscapes, you can’t help but be awestruck at the natural wonders of this country.
The intricate vaulted ceilings of the Blue Mosque.
With temperatures that can reach heady heights, the beaches of Turkey are tempting, but can get crowded. Spring and Autumn are lovely times
to visit, especially if you want to do lots of sightseeing. In Turkey everything is diverse – from the landscapes to the cuisine – and it’s this that makes every step of the trip feel fulfilling and joyous. With an abundance on offer, it’s fair to say Turkey leaves you wanting more.
The secret garden
A whimsical wonderland lies hidden in Hamurana for storybook lovers of all ages to discover. With a story of her own, the creator has found freedom in its magic.
A whimsical wonderland lies hidden in Hamurana for storybook lovers of all ages to discover. With a story of her own, the creator has found freedom in its magic.
WORDS Hayley Barnett
If it wasn’t for a giant wooden carving of the majestic lion from Narnia sitting at the entrance to Jenna and Brent Austin’s farmyard property, you’d be convinced you were lost. Hamurana’s Enchanted Storybook Nook is hidden away in the back of what looks to be a rundown greenhouse with a small cabin attached.
“You can see people wondering what they’re in for when they arrive,” laughs Jenna, her long blonde curls contrasting against a black fur coat and bright red lipstick. She teeters on high heels as she walks across the grass to greet us.
It’s a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Jenna has just finished tidying up after a birthday party and is rushing back to the house to put her youngest child – one of four – down to sleep. I assume the get-up is part of a character for the party, but she wasn’t involved. This is simply how she dresses day to day, even on the farm, even with four children. Once you see the hidden garden for yourself, Jenna’s eccentricities suddenly make sense.
Just upon entering the small wooden cabin we’re amazed. Made to feel as if you’re stepping back in time, the beauty is in the details. There’s a reading nook and a secret entrance to the restroom, complete with a faux library wall. The large glass drink dispenser labeled ‘Drink Me’, with a tasty potion inside, is the perfect start to our trip into a literal Wonderland.
“The whole concept began in my mind the second I saw the space,” explains Jenna. “Brent and I discovered a hidden, abandoned shade house when we were viewing the property, before we bought it. I knew instantly it could be transformed into a secret garden. Brent suggested we turn it into a chicken coop, but by that point my imagination had already taken flight and planned the entire thing.”
Brent is a builder and agreed to build the cottage at the beginning of the shade house, which is where you enter the garden through the “Narnia wardrobe” – an antique wardrobe Jenna had bought years ago from Trade Me.
As a child, Jenna was captivated by the movie The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. “Discovering an entire world through an old wardrobe was beyond magical to me,” says Jenna. “I actually purchased that wardrobe with the intent of one day building a secret door behind it that entered into my own secret space whenever we found our forever home.”
Many of the layouts have changed and evolved since its inception but the one thing that remains the same is the yellow brick road which meanders through the entire garden. Fast-forward a few years to its near completion, you can now enter through the wardrobe into a snowy Narnia scene, complete with a lion and lamppost. From there the brick road leads you through all Jenna’s favourite books and movies as a child. Hansel and Gretel, Alice In Wonderland, Peter Pan, Mary Poppins, The Wizard of Oz – the list goes on.
“The whole concept really was just for me,” says Jenna. “I never intended it to be for anyone other than myself. Sure, I delighted in the fact that I could take my kids in there to have tea parties and for them to experience their very own wonderland in their backyard but that was by no means my goal. My driving force was my depression and constant need to get reprieve from the emptiness I feel on a daily basis.”
Jenna has suffered from depression and anxiety for most of her life, ever since she was diagnosed with anorexia at age 14. She was hospitalised four times, and although she’s won the battle with her eating disorder, the feelings associated with it have never really left her.
“I notice when I’m creating I’m immersed in the moment, and all the pain and negativity and the screaming chaos in my head almost ceases to exist. Creating a place full of all my favourite childhood books and movies felt so magical.
“It wasn’t that I wanted to escape into a different reality and be a little girl again. I can’t really explain it, so I typed into Google “nostalgia and healing” and this article came up that said ‘actively reminiscing on happy moments or joining in activities that are tied to positive memories can be emotionally soothing’.”
Jenna’s core memories from when she was a child were of tiny tea parties with her grandma, and the happiness she felt when watching her favourite movies. “I was able to revisit a time when life was calm and joyful and happy.”
When Jenna got started on the garden she commissioned her friend, artist Maria Hermans, to paint a storybook-inspired mural. “She went above and beyond and exceeded my expectations,” says Jenna.
Maria also struggles with mental illness and, over time, both Jenna and Maria gained a tremendous amount of positive focus and satisfaction from creating the garden together.
Maria continued to paint more and more, filling up the garden walls as the years went on. Sadly, Jenna’s grandmother, Gloria, passed away recently. In one of the murals, Maria used a photo of Gloria when she was 18 years old to depict her as Glinda, the Good Witch from The Wizard of Oz.
For Jenna, turning 40 this year has coincided with opening up the garden
to the public.
“I’m blown away at how something that simply started off as a personal passion project is now fast becoming a special destination for the young and old to visit,” she says. “I’m really starting to enjoy being able to share what is essentially the very essence of who I am, as well as the adversity I have overcome and am still to overcome. It’s not just a garden to me, and the outpouring of messages I’ve received proves it’s not just a
garden to others either. It really touches people and captures the nostalgia of their childhoods.”
Jenna points out there’s still space to extend the garden, but for now she’s content with allowing the public through and hiring out the space for the occasional party.
“I might look at hiring a fairy entertainer, so we can hold fairy parties,” says Jenna, who has hung up her own fairy wings for now. “Maybe I’ll focus on catering to the adults in a coffee cart.”
Book via Facebook Messenger: theenchantedstorybooknook
In full flight
Feel the need, the need for speed? Channel your Top Gun fantasies on this international-level adventure.
Feel the need, the need for speed? Channel your Top Gun fantasies on this international-level adventure.
words Cameron Scott
If we want a world-class flying adventure, Bay locals are lucky – we need only go as far as Tauranga Airport. Owned by international airline pilot Craig Mossman and his wife Annie, Fighter Jets NZ is one of just a handful of ventures globally that offer clients exhilarating rides in a rapid and nimble two-seater jet fighter, and as the only business of its kind in this part of the world, it is attracting thrill-seekers from here, there and everywhere.
Of course, the experience of a lifetime doesn’t come cheap, but it’s not something you’re ever likely to forget, and neither is it over in a flash. The actual flight, which lasts around 30 minutes or so, can be customised to suit you. It’s the high point of a two-hour adventure that begins at Fighter Jets NZ’s base at 15 Dakota Way, a lane next to the Classic Flyers Museum, just down the road from the airport terminal. Here, you’re given a detailed briefing about your flight, including all-important safety procedures, before being kitted out with a flying suit, helmet and life jacket. You’re also shown how your helmet works and how to strap yourself into your seat, so no time is wasted before take-off (the ejection seat has been disabled, in case you were wondering).
If you want to bring friends or family along to watch, you’re welcome, says Craig. The record so far belongs to a customer who arrived with 35 people in tow.
Fighter Jets NZ owner Craig Mossman.
Fighter Jets NZ operates three high-performance Albatros military trainer jets designed in Czechoslovakia. Craig purchased the 901km/h aircraft in the US, where they’d been “Westernised” for civil ownership after being sourced in the Ukraine and Russia. He bought the first 12 years ago and used it recreationally before launching Fighter Jets NZ in 2017. He later added to the fleet and put together a full support team when it became clear there was a demand for commercial flights.
Fighter Jets NZ also has an unusual side hustle – participating in war games exercises with the Royal New Zealand Navy. Our air force hasn’t had suitable aircraft for the task since the government disbanded the RNZAF Air Combat Force’s three squadrons of fighter jets back in 2001.
When you’re on board, you’re in the best hands; five international airline pilots share flying duties and two are former RNZAF Skyhawk fighter pilots. The ground crew includes a maintenance controller, a marketing manager and even a Japanese interpreter. As well as handling customer liaison, Annie also manages special events. As for safety, Fighter Jets NZ runs under the close scrutiny of the Civil Aviation Authority of New Zealand and is fully certified.
Passengers can choose from three adventures, among them a 30-minute Top Gun experience that’s aimed at adrenaline junkies and tailored to individual requirements. Craig describes it as “pretty intense”, as it involves a serious aerobatic routine, pulling hefty G-forces. Then there’s the similarly priced and timed Thermal Recon, involving a sightseeing visit to the Rotorua Lakes district (just five minutes’ jet-speed flying time away), with a celebratory roll or two thrown in on the way back.
If you like your flying action slightly dialled back, there’s the 20-minute Buzz & Break, which by all accounts is no less amazing and includes spectacular low-level flying over the lakes. And you needn’t worry about bad weather clouding any of these experiences, as flights are scheduled only for fine days.
Since the business took off, so to speak, there’s been steady demand from around New Zealand and further afield – and not one person has said they didn’t enjoy their flight, says Craig. Some go to extraordinary lengths to get their jet-fighter fix. Annie recalls two Japanese passengers, close friends, who flew to New Zealand with the sole purpose of flying in a fighter jet, making the return trip over a single weekend.
Jet flights make an out-of-the-ordinary birthday or special occasion gift – and if several people chip in, as often happens, the cost becomes quite affordable.
Gift vouchers also make a memorable reward for corporate staff or their clients. Craig says one company liked the idea so much, it bought four flights, and Fighter Jets NZ has flown up to 10 corporate customers in a single day. They’re flexible too. If you’re given a voucher for the Top Gun experience, for example, but aerobatics aren’t your thing, you can swap it for another option.
Videos are available, so you can vicariously share the fun with others, but almost anyone who’s reasonably fit and no more than 145kg can enjoy the experience. So far, the youngest passenger to fly with Craig and Annie’s team was 16, and the oldest a game 94.
As far as thrills go, a flight in a fighter jet might be the ultimate, but for those who prefer to get theirs on solid ground, the Tauranga jets take part in major airshows too. Flown by highly skilled US pilots, they were a highlight of last Easter’s spectacular Warbirds Over Wanaka event, which attracted a crowd of around 65,000 people over two days.
Twinkle toes
Liz French skied the slopes of Canada’s Sun Peaks and Big White resorts, and it made her feel like dancing.
Liz French skied the slopes of Canada’s Sun Peaks and Big White resorts, and it made her feel like dancing.
photos Liz French + Lindy Ellison + supplied
“Skiing is like dancing; the snow is your music,” said Olympic gold medallist Nancy Greene, who calls Sun Peaks home and is a wonderful ambassador. I was privileged to ski in a group with the woman named Canada’s female athlete of the 20th century in 1999 for her prowess and contribution to the sport.
Nancy’s 80 now, but she still skis like a teenager. She generously shared her story and tips for improving our skiing (“Stay on the balls of your feet”), taking us where we might not have otherwise gone – notably the ski cross course, on which you bounce over humps and race around well-cambered corners.
After a couple of cloudy but satisfyingly snowy days, Sun Peaks lived up to its name with bright blue skies and gloriously groomed pistes. My partner and I arrived there from Big White, which also lived up to its reputation as ‘Big Whiteout’. We had six murky days, but the payoff was snow you float through. It’s not like in New Zealand, where heavy cloud cover means skiing by braille. The trees provide definition and the wide, obstacle-free pistes instil confidence.
The slightly eerie feeling of skiing in the mist was enhanced by the sight of ‘snow ghosts’. Big White’s known for these trees on the upper slopes that get so snowbound they take on a sculptural form. To add to the sense of surreal, we went night skiing one evening. One long run is illuminated by lamps that throw pools of light on the snow, the patches of dark between them slightly disconcerting till you get the hang of it.
Members of Liz’s tour group - fast and furious meets sedate.
Skiing in Canada is delightfully different to skiing in New Zealand. Think long, wide, tree-framed pistes groomed to perfection, often with several centimetres of powder laid seductively on top. Sun Peaks has a signature trail, five miles (that’s 8km) from Top of the World to the base. The colder, north-facing side of the resort, Morrisey, has lots of glade skiing; on the south-facing side, Sundance and Sunburst have longer, sweeping trails. If Big White is whiting out, skiing the Black Forest side affords ample visibility. When the sky clears, it’s great to head to the Gem Lake area and the powder runs, most of which we skied without much visibility but with good guides.
The only queues we saw were on the main chairlifts when they opened in the morning, especially on a powder day. Most lifts allow skiers to take green (easy), blue (intermediate and so much fun) or black (advanced) trails down, meaning even amateur skiers can reach the top to enjoy the view.
We book our snow holidays through Auckland’s Ski Travel Specialists, and this year joined one of their group trips that come with the benefit of tour leaders. Ōhope couple Linda and Stephen Clews have been hosting ski trips for years and, as well as facilitating fun, share their knowledge of the fields. I mostly chose to ski with them, as they split the group into fast and furious (usually me!) and slightly more sedate skiers. We also took advantage of the snow hosts.
These usually retired, keen skiers volunteer their time to take visitors on tours of the fields they know and love. The ones we met said they enjoy Kiwis, who they find are usually game for anything.
Skiers need fuel, and both resorts offer a good range of eating, drinking (and shopping) options, though Sun Peaks’ village is more extensive than Big White’s. We even found good coffee, becoming regulars at the Tea Bar at Big White, and Bolacco and Vertical cafés at Sun Peaks. Costs escalate with tax and tips, but hey, you’re on holiday.
There’s plenty to do if you want a change from skiing or snowboarding. We could have gone ice skating, snow shoeing, tubing, sleigh riding, fat biking and axe throwing. I bowed to my partner’s desire to go snowmobiling and spent two hours squawking from the back seat as we shot along the trails, stopping to admire views and to thaw out at a warming hut also used by cross-country skiers. I much preferred dog sledding – sitting in a low-slung sleigh with a musher behind us to ‘steer’ the seven enthusiastic, well cared for canines swooping us along tree-lined trails and out to a frozen lake.
Skiing in Canada gives me a heady mix of ego-boosting snow and spectacular scenery, the adrenaline rush of gravity-enforced speed curbed and increased by skill, and the company of like-minded people. I can’t wait till I get to dance on snow again.
Rediscover Rotorua
This family-friendly geothermal wonderland just keeps getting better.
This family-friendly geothermal wonderland just keeps getting better.
words Stephanie Taylor
Growing up, I spent a lot of time in Rotorua with my family trout fishing and boating from the old Ohau Channel campground, before it was developed into a resort.
Luckily for my brother and I, our parents then went on to buy an old bach in Ngongotahā so we could keep the lake dream alive. Our love of the area only continued to evolve, with both of us taking up white water kayaking at high school and paddling the Kaituna River regularly.
It was all pretty idyllic, so unsurprisingly my partner Jeff and I jumped at the chance to take our own kids to Rotorua on holiday recently. But at two and four years old, we knew the trip would probably look a little different to my childhood adventures. With throwing them off a sea biscuit not yet an option, we took the chance to experience some of the area’s more wholesome, age-appropriate activities. Coupled with beautiful scenery and incredible hospitality, this city smashes tourism out of the water – for overseas visitors and Bay locals alike.
STAY
With 48 hours to spend in the city, Jeff, Donovan, Daphne and I stayed central at the Millennium Hotel Rotorua. Overlooking the steamy, geothermal end of Lake Rotorua, our rooms felt suspended over the incredible natural surroundings Rotorua is famous for. Our toddlers are morning people, which meant we were all lucky enough to watch the sunrise over the lake creating beautiful, changing scenes through the steam. One of nature’s shows that photos just don’t do justice.
The hotel location is right on the edge of the city centre within a brief stroll to some of our excursions. Free onsite parking, comfortable adjoining rooms, and a lush internal native garden to explore on the way to the breakfast buffet were some of our favourite family-friendly features. Special mention to the bottomless drip coffee at breakfast, and the friendly faces serving it!
Skyline Luge
EAT
Jeff and I were equal parts anxious and excited about this portion of the weekend. Managing our son Donny’s multiple food allergies had meant we’d never been confident enough to eat out as a family before. However, contacting restaurants in advance made us feel ready to finally give it a crack.
Pig & Whistle Historic Pub
Local landmark and crowdpleaser the Pig & Whistle was our first stop for dinner. Being a Friday, we really enjoyed being part of the lively pub atmosphere while still having enough room to move around the table and talk over the music. Seated fireside, Jeff and I enjoyed a selection of the not-so-small plates washed down with a couple of tap beers, while the kids happily devoured their first ever restaurant meals of steak, rice and veges. The amazing wait staff kept checking in on us and made it fun for everyone.
Capers Cafe + Store
Under the same ownership, Capers conveniently had the same chef on shift for our next night, meaning the kids’ dinners were pre-planned and again ran smoothly. In between eating they enjoyed watching a movie in the kids’ room, and with our table positioned just outside Jeff and I were able to enjoy our meals with a side of adult conversation. My nourishing Salmon Poke Bowl was cooked to utter perfection, and Capers’ extensive selection of desserts proved so tempting that slices of Biscoff Cheesecake and their famous Chocolate Mudcake may have made it back to the hotel with us.
Stratosfare Restaurant & Bar
Spoilt for choice once more, the incredible array of freshly prepared food at Stratosfare’s buffet lunch was seriously to die for. Jeff lived the dream and managed to eat his bodyweight in seafood, and we were personally visited by head chef Dan to ensure Donny’s needs were met. With stunning panoramic views of Lake Rotorua from our table and full puku, it was hard to leave, but with kids champing at the bit to get lugeing we eventually tore ourselves away.
Okere Falls Store
Even though our epic escape was coming to an end, I was excited for lunch on the way home at a personal favourite – the Okere Falls Store. Daphne and Don made fast friends to explore the beer garden with, while Jeff and I chatted with locals over a yummy Avo Smash and Grilled Cheese Toastie. With its outdoorsy, community feel, we could have very easily settled in for the afternoon, especially with the largest selection of craft beers in Rotorua on offer.
Rotorua Duck Tours
PLAY
Skyline Rotorua
Luge riding has definitely gone up a notch since my last rodeo! With lit up tunnels, branching tracks and towering dinosaurs, three runs on the Skyline Rotorua Luge went by super fast and left us wanting more. These days there are five tracks and two chairlift lines – which also meant lines were never long, even on a busy Saturday. We were surprised that even two-year-old Daphne absolutely loved it, and neither kids were scared at any point including on the gondola rides – another highlight for spotting rabbits, deer and impressive downhill mountain bikers.
Redwoods Nightlights
Daphne was, however, a little dubious at the Redwoods Nightlights, unfortunately. The suspended bridges moving underfoot weren’t her cup of tea, so while the boys took to the heights Daph and I enjoyed the atmosphere from down below. Which was actually really fun in itself, like being at Disneyland at night time. With sounds and voices all around, there was a cool 3D projection to watch while we waited for the boys, who returned with stories of incredible illuminations amongst the stunning redwoods. We’ll definitely be back once Daphne’s a bit older.
aMAZE me
Polynesian Spa
As a long time visitor of the Polynesian Spa, but first timer in the family pool, I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed it. At 33 degrees, the supervised large pool features a small hydroslide, a shallow toddler section and a deep end. There’s a couple of small hot pools too, but the temperature of the main pool was all we needed for a fun family splash. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good hot swim as much as the next person. But getting drained of energy when you’ve got toddlers is not a vibe.
Rotorua Duck Tours
Speaking of relaxation, Rotorua Duck Tours lulled both kids to sleep at different points. The ex-military trucks are pretty bumpy and loud, creating ideal napping conditions. But with tour guide Olly cracking corny jokes and fact dropping at any given opportunity, Jeff and I were thoroughly entertained throughout and enjoyed learning about the area from a tourist’s perspective. And what better way to sightsee in a lake region than from a WW2 amphibious vehicle? It took us around the Rotorua lakefront, and out and on to the Blue Lake as well as Lake Ōkāreka.
Agrodome Farm Show and aMAZEme
We spent our final morning in Rotorua at the legendary Agrodome Farm Show and aMAZEme, both of which are really suited to young families. What kid doesn’t love a farm animal? Especially when there’s multiple bustling about on stage, and plenty of opportunities to touch and interact with them. Both attractions had amazing play areas for kids and we could have spent an entire day between the two. Thanks to Donny and I, some members of the family managed to complete the maze successfully while others didn’t quite have the patience.
Winter on Waiheke
The phrase “on island time” may seem incongruous as wet weather approaches, but Waiheke Island offers the perfect – alas, temporary – escape from winter woes.
The phrase “on island time” may seem incongruous as wet weather approaches, but Waiheke Island offers the perfect – alas, temporary – escape from winter woes.
words Hayley Barnett
It’s widely known that Waiheke Island is the place to be during the summer months, but many are unaware of the island’s lure during the cooler season.
Over winter Waiheke transforms into a different kind of wonderland, with vineyards displaying stunning autumn colours and fewer crowds, providing visitors with more intimate experiences.
With a bit of help, it’s easy to get around the world-class wineries, and if you can find a good place to hunker down when the weather gets bleak, then you’ve found yourself the ideal winter island getaway.
Omana Luxury Villa
Located at Woodside Bay, Omana Luxury Villa boasts breathtaking panoramic views, a private beach, and offers all the modern amenities required for a luxury hideaway.
Upon entering the spacious apartment, it was immediately apparent that relaxing and unwinding are of the utmost importance here. Within 10 minutes of our arrival I was making use of the oversized bathtub while enjoying the view and precariously balancing a glass of Thomas Estate blanc de gris on the side.
The floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the stunning natural beauty surrounding the apartments. Each villa has been given a name – Serenity, Haven, Surrender, and Joy – to reflect the type of experience the owners hope their guests will have during their stay.
The super king bed is perfect for snuggling up and watching movies, which is just what we did for an entire afternoon and night one rainy day – although watching a storm roll by through the huge windows is entertainment enough.
The dining table and kitchenette containing all the necessary appliances allowed us to stay cooped up in luxury, without the need to leave.
When the sun finally came out the following day, we ate breakfast on the private terrace overlooking the incredible views of the rolling hills and water. Each morning breakfast is delivered to your door and includes an omelette, croissants, granola, and fresh fruit with orange juice. Each apartment is equipped with a coffee machine that takes the finest Waiheke beans, so there’s no need to even venture out for a coffee.
Casita Miro
Tour Waiheke
Graeme from Kiwi Connect Tours picked us up right on our doorstep the day after our arrival at Omana. His large-yet-economical and environmentally friendly electric vans make for a comfortable, relaxing journey around the winding hills of Waiheke. And his well-informed chat kept us entertained as he ferried us from vineyard to vineyard. Graeme has been living on Waiheke since 2019, just before the first COVID-19 lockdown decimated his tuktuk business in Auckland. The move to green vehicles was a genius move on Graeme’s part, as much of the island’s population has long been an environmentally conscious community. Since starting the business, Graeme has adapted to island life well, knowing the best places to go and the history behind each winery.
Casita Miro
Our first stop is one of the trendiest vineyards – Casito Miro – to indulge in a wine tasting. At 10am it did seem a little early to start on the vino, but I wasn’t complaining. The Spanish-style building immediately transports you to Barcelona with its Gaudi-esque mosaic design. With the vines stretched out below you as you sample each of Casito Miro’s best wines, you’d be forgiven for believing yourself to be somewhere far beyond in the Mediterranean. Though they do make amazing wines here, it’s the tapas that attracts the foodies. The goat’s cheese croqueta and patatas bravas are menu must-tries.
Batch
Next it was on to Batch, where the young, hip vibe was immediately apparent. Three hens’ dos and posters advertising its summer festivals were the first two giveaways. As we were guided through to the cellar door, a young Frenchman gave us a rundown on what makes Batch so unique. His passion and knowledge for wine was impressive and infectious.
By the time we swayed unsteadily out towards the restaurant for lunch, we felt we were already well-educated wine connoisseurs and looked forward to critiquing our wine matches with lunch.
Cable Bay
Perched atop a hill overlooking Auckland City is the highly reputable Cable Bay.
I have vague, fond memories of spending my 30th here for lunch just over 10 years ago. Not much has changed other than the layout of the restaurant and the menu but, as the saying goes, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Here, we’re treated to a vineyard tour and tasting. The first vineyard was built here in 1998, and today the business has expanded to include the winery, olive groves, organic gardens, two restaurants, event spaces, a cellar door and an expansive outdoor lawn area.
Tantalus Estate Vineyard
Returning home to our villa in the early afternoon after Cable Bay, sheets of rain swept into our island cove and we spent the rest of the day hunkered down watching movies.
Thankfully, it was the rain that saved us from a brutal hangover the next day. We had enough energy reserves to head out to Tantalus Estate before catching our ferry back to the city.
The estate prides itself on using local New Zealand ingredients where executive chef Gideon Landman experiments with bold flavours and textures. We were treated to the Tantalus “Trust The Chef” lunch, which consists of six courses and what seems to be never-ending welcome snacks (not that we were complaining).
The taste and presentation of each dish was exquisite and we were soon on the edges of our seats waiting for each course to arrive.
We waddled out of there fully satisfied and somewhat surprised that we had just experienced one of the best meals of our lives.
Making it back in time for the ferry, we sadly farewelled our temporary island home, right before the rain clouds set back in.
Paradise found
Aitutaki’s crystal-clear waters and relaxed vibe isn’t just for honeymooners. It’s what makes Rarotonga such a must-visit destination for Kiwis.
Aitutaki’s crystal-clear waters and relaxed vibe isn’t just for honeymooners. It’s what makes Rarotonga such a must-visit destination for Kiwis.
words Cameron Scott
There’s much more to the Cook Islands than Rarotonga, the colourful tropical island which, thanks to its international airport, use of New Zealand currency, and excellent tourist infrastructure, draws most of the Kiwi visitors to this far-flung tropical paradise.
This tiny South Pacific country is actually made up of 15 islands with a total land area of just 240 square kilometres, but scattered over a mind-boggling two million square kilometres of Pacific Ocean – from isolated Penrhyn in the north, to cooler-climate Mangaia in the Southern Group.
Of all the outlying islands, Aitutaki tops the list for visitors wanting to explore more of what the Cook Islands has to offer. This languid tropical paradise covers an area of just 18.05 square kilometres, but there’s certainly no lack of things to do or see – and plenty of opportunity to abandon your cares and relax on a pristine beach beside one of the world’s most spectacular lagoons.
Some first-time visitors to the Cook Islands organise their flights to catch a quick connection to Aitutaki shortly after their arrival in Rarotonga. But I’d recommend first spending a couple of days in Rarotonga to get used to the balmy Cook Islands weather and experience a little of the 32km-diameter island’s many cultural and scenic attractions. For a quick taste of Aitutaki, a day trip with Air Rarotonga is also highly recommended and will surely inspire a longer return visit.
Home to just 1800 people, Aitutaki is even more relaxed and laid-back than Rarotonga, retaining much of its authentic charm. The low-lying atoll itself has 15 islands (only one is inhabited), and its spectacularly vast and gorgeous lagoon is surrounded by a protective reef.
Aitutaki has an excellent selection of accommodation to suit all budgets and, in general, is warmer and sunnier than Rarotonga, with a better chance of blue skies. And while it is small, you’ll find no shortage of beautiful, private beaches fringed with coconut trees. There’s also plenty of things to do, most of them naturally involving water activities.
You’ll arrive at Aitutaki Airport, a former WWII airfield located at the triangular-shaped island’s northern point. The island’s largest village, Arutanga, is on the west side.
PLAY
Of all the things to do on Aitutaki, exploring the lagoon and its islets is the best. Go kayaking from a secluded white sand beach or join a boat tour and visit One Foot Island, where you can have your passport stamped at the world’s smallest post office. There’s some of the finest snorkelling you’ll find anywhere, in pristine waters teeming with colourful tropical fish. At night, enjoy an island night cultural show with a traditional umu (the island equivalent of a hangi) feast and Cook Island dancing. It’s also an essential part of the Aitutaki experience to meet some of the friendly, fun-loving locals and visit the oldest church in the Cook Islands, built of coral and limestone in Arutanga village in 1823. A good way to learn the history and culture of the island is to take a guided tour, or simply hire a scooter or bicycle and explore at your leisure.
Wet & Wild Water Tours
Wet & Wild Water Tours offer boat charters, a water taxi, kite and wake boarding, tube riding, water skiing, fishing and spearfishing, whale-watching, sightseeing and much more. Humpback whales pass near Aitutaki on their migratory path from July to October.
Bishop’s Cruises
Famous for its well-organised lagoon cruises, offering a truly memorable experience, Bishop's Cruises also specialise in organising spectacular weddings on One Foot Island. Whatever you want to do, they’ll take care of every detail, making your big day ultra-special.
Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish
If fishing is your thing, Aitutaki Blue Lagoon Flyfish offers full and half-day guided fly fishing adventures on the Aitutaki lagoon, targeting bonefish and trevally. The bonefish are big, averaging 28 to 30 inches, while the trevally are guaranteed to put up a big fight.
Aitutaki Day Tour
At the top end of the scale, Island Hopper Vacations offer an exclusive Aitutaki Day Tour which includes return VIP airport transfers on both Rarotonga and Aitutaki, return private jet flights, a private tour of Aitutaki and a private boat charter and lagoon cruise, with a special buffet lunch on an uninhabited motu (island).
Pacific Resort Aitutaki has won awards for its luxurious accommodation and superior service.
STAY
Pacific Resort Aitutaki
The spectacular award-winning Pacific Resort Aitutaki offers 29 luxurious bungalows and villas with wide views across the lagoon. Indulge with a massage at Tiare Spa or grab a kayak or stand-up paddle board to explore the lagoon waters. The only member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World in Aitutaki, the resort welcomes guests aged 12-plus.
Tamanu Beach Resort
On the eastern coast of Aitutaki, Tamanu Beach Resort has relaxed Polynesian-style bungalows and is right on the beach in Amuri village. The resort has two wings, one for adults only and the other for families. On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 6.30pm, the resort hosts a special feast featuring delicious local food as well as the
island's traditional singing and dancing.
Rino’s Aitutaki Beach Apartments
At the affordable end of the scale and offering
all the essentials for a relaxing holiday, Rino's Aitutaki Beach Apartments has a selection of cozy self-catered beach apartments a few steps from the beach.
Aitutaki Beach Villas
With just four private, self-contained beach bungalows, this tranquil spot is ideal for everything from honeymoons to family getaways. Set beside a safe and beautiful beach, it’s also an easy walk from the island’s larger hotels, restaurants and shops.
The freshest of seafood features on the menus of most Aitutaki restaurants and cafés.
EAT
Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant
Tamanu Beachfront Restaurant offers a true Pacific Island dining experience with delicious foods and friendly, island-style hospitality. Nestled on the beach beside Aitutaki's sensational lagoon, this a la carte restaurant has a good selection of Pacific Island cuisine along with a Western favourites and opens seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
tamanubeach.com/restaurant-bar
Avatea Café
Boldy staking claim to “the best food in Aitutaki,” the family owned Avatea Café is located in Tautu and is known for its laid-back outdoors atmosphere and friendly service. The well-presented food ranges from crepes and coffee for breakfast, to sashimi pizza and the café’s famous fish curry and homemade naan bread for dinner. After a day exploring the lagoon, their Aitutaki Brewery beer is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner every day except Sunday.
The Boat Shed Bar & Grill
A reliable destination for good drinks and seafood for lunch or dinner, this popular establishment offers wonderful views of the lagoon and beyond. The menu includes Japanese sushi platters, sashimi plates, chicken teriyaki, and local seafood dishes. If you’ve had a successful day’s fishing, the chefs are happy to cook your catch. The children’s playground is a plus – as are the well-priced cocktails
Mango Take Away Aitutaki
If you’re looking for a good meal on the go, you’ve found it right here. Mango Take Away in Amuri is handy to some of Aitutaki’s main resorts and hotels and serves up a delicious selection of pizza, pasta, burgers and Asian dishes, as well as cakes, pastries and desserts. You can tell how good this unassuming little establishment is by the number of locals who visit.
cookislands.travel/supplier/mango-take-away
Getting there
Aitutaki is the ideal place to shake off the stresses of modern-day living and escape the chilly depths of a New Zealand winter. Air Rarotonga flies a jet-prop Saab 340B Plus aircraft from Rarotonga to Aitutaki up to five times daily. You can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.