Expert Constance Santos on your skin’s natural barrier
Little good can come of cosmetic treatments if your skin’s natural barrier isn’t functioning well, says our expert Constance of Mt Maunganui’s Epidermis & Sage. Here’s how to get yours sussed.
Little good can come of cosmetic treatments if your skin’s natural barrier isn’t functioning well, says our expert Constance of Mt Maunganui’s Epidermis & Sage. Here’s how to get yours sussed.
Your skin has a protective barrier that functions to keep good things in and bad things out, such as bacteria and pollution. It’s made up of skin cells, and oils like fats, ceramides and omegas. That barrier is sometimes called the lipid layer or acid mantle.
Keeping your skin barrier healthy is vital for good skin health and optimal function. There are lots of things that can impair its function such as poor product usage, environmental factors and diet. An impaired function can lead to chronic skin conditions. Dermatitis, eczema and acne as well as dry, irritated skin are often the signs of a poor barrier function, as is skin that ages rapidly.
There are some fantastic beauty treatments out there – including needling, microdermabrasion and peels – but if your skin’s barrier isn’t healthy, you won’t get the benefit from them. It all comes down to your skin’s ability to make good, healthy, organised collagen. Most of these treatments work by stimulating a healing response, which produces healthy collagen through the controlled creation of a wound that sends the skin into repair mode. If your skin’s barrier is already impaired, you don’t want to add extra inflammation to the mix. Your skin is already concentrating on repairing itself and it can only do so much, so when it’s overwhelmed with an inflammatory response, activities like collagen production become a lesser priority.
How do you ensure your skin has a well- functioning barrier? It needs to stay in balance. For example, make sure you are having enough Omega-3 in your diet. If you aren’t getting enough, it’ll show on your skin. Another simple way of repairing an impaired barrier is to use a great cleanser (I recommend the Roccoco Botanicals Pore Cleansing Oil or Roccoco Botanicals Soothing Cleansing Oil) that works to restore balance to the barrier function.
Don’t forget, though, everything’s connected. What you eat and drink also affects your skin and gut, which makes taking essential fatty acids (EFAs) effective too (I recommend Pure Encapsulations EFA Essentials). Doing so will nourish your skin from the inside, and they’re anti-inflammatory as well. As I said, balance is important. Omega-3 is the best EFA for the skin. Omega-6 and Omega-9 also have good benefits, but too much Omega-6 can actually be inflammatory, so it’s best to talk to a skin therapist and get the right blend and dose for you.
The skin and within: Constance Santos of Epidermis and Sage shares her holistic approach to beauty
UNO’s beauty editor Lisa Shea catches up with Constance Santos of Epidermis & Sage, who takes a holistic approach.
UNO’s beauty editor Lisa Shea catches up with Constance Santos of Epidermis & Sage, who takes a holistic approach.
Sitting down with skin therapist Constance Santos in her beautiful new space in Mt Maunganui, I could tell from her carefully selected products that she has a real passion for all things skin. The clinic is clean and calm with a contemporary, comfortable feel, and I couldn’t wait to find out what’s behind it all.
LISA: How did you decide the name Epidermis & Sage?
CONSTANCE: I wanted a name that represents the way I believe in treating the skin, using more natural products and holistic methods combined with science. The epidermis is the area of the skin that we treat the most and where lots of important skin cells live, so that’s the science part of the name. As a herb, the “sage” part relates to the natural side of my business. Sage is a cleansing herb and I felt like it symbolised a new beginning for me and for my business.
What makes you different?
At Epidermis & Sage, we treat the skin quite differently to a lot of traditional methods. In my career, I’ve found that it’s never been enough to simply recommend products or treatments to clients, especially when you’re treating difficult skin conditions, as there’s often an internal trigger and it’s most likely gut-related. If you’re not treating the skin from within or trying to eliminate triggers from the inside, you’re not going to have much success with using products on the outside, so we combine both methods to get our amazing results. We also set up our clients with the knowledge and tools to continue on, even when they’re not seeing us. If they have an acne outbreak or an eczema outbreak, for example, they can look back and figure out what triggered it and address it themselves, and I think that’s important.
What can I expect in a consultation?
Our consultation process is extremely in-depth. There are so many things that can cause difficult skin conditions, so you need to find the triggers and go through medications and everything else with a fine-tooth comb. Our clients get a long form to fill out, then we get them in for a diagnostic Observ Skin Scan that gives us about 18 different views of the skin, including lipid levels, inflammation and pigmentation at different levels. All this allows us to treat the skin with absolute precision and means our clients can purchase the products we recommend or come in for a treatment knowing we already understand exactly what’s needed. Because a lot of skin problems come from stress, part of our method is making sure that we create a luxurious, pampering experience. Our clients get into a lovely, lush bed and receive their relaxing treatment.
Can you explain to me the importance of skin nutrition and how it’s different to general nutritional supplements?
People quite often have huge nutritional deficiencies – a big one that I harp on about is the common deficiency in essential fatty acids (EFAs). Your cells need EFAs to function properly, and when you don’t, you notice things like poor healing and chronic skin conditions such as eczema. We look at diet and address deficiencies, and bolster our results with supplements that aid in collagen production, for example. That’s also really important when addressing age-related skin concerns. Rather than blasting the skin with heat or over-peeling it, to rejuvenate skin, we like to focus on DNA repair and getting the skin functioning well. There’s no point trying to stimulate your skin with products and devices on the outside if your cells don’t have the right nutrition, so we really focus a lot on internal supplements and happily refer clients to some amazing holistic nutritionists in the area who we work closely with.
What products or equipment do you use in your treatments?
We use some high-tech devices. We have the Exceed medical microneedling device, which we use for our collagen induction; no one else has that device in this area. We also have the LED light Lutronic Healite, and using that kind of stronger, medical- grade equipment means our results are a lot better. What also makes us special is our expertise and continuous training – we’re always studying. We’re not about quick-fire or sticking-plaster treatments that mask the issue – we want our clients to see real changes in their skin that they can maintain permanently.
Autumn’s top treatment:
Constance Santos of Epidermis & Sage recommends...
Microdermabrasion is the perfect autumn reset for the skin after a long summer of sun damage and endless sunscreen application. It clears away built-up skin cells, increases circulation, supports the skin’s natural lymphatic drainage, eradicates toxins and gets the skin in optimal condition to absorb skincare products.
It is a form of exfoliation that uses tiny crystals to slough away dead skin cells while a vacuum acts as a pump for the body’s lymphatic drainage process. The machine we use at Epidermis & Sage has fully disposable heads and allows us to customise treatments, monitoring the intensity so it’s used at a safe level for your skin. We can apply peels before the treatment to get a better result, and calming and hydrating masks afterwards when the skin is more accepting, so the product gets to where it’s needed most. The Healite LED is included in our more advanced microdermabrasion treatment and it not only calms the skin, but also simulates the fibroblasts to help the healing and anti-ageing process.
Come in for a consultation with our state-of-the- art Observ scanner, so we can see exactly what your needs are and create a bespoke treatment tailored specifically to you.
Top summer product and treatment picks from Tranquillo
Top-to-toe summer product and treatment picks from our appearance pro Sue Dewes at Tauranga’s Tranquillo Beauty Clinic.
Top-to-toe product and treatment picks from our appearance pro Sue Dewes at Tauranga’s Tranquillo Beauty Clinic.
Top Products
For your eyes
O Cosmedics No Baggage Native Collagen Eye Mask
Your new best friend before those special events, this eye mask smooths fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrates, plumps and firms the delicate skin around the eyes. Dampen with water, smooth on, boost with an O Cosmedics serum if you wish, then sit back and relax, and you’ll see visible results in just 20 minutes.
For your feet
Gehwol Refreshing Balm
This footcare brand has a solution for every problem, ensuring your feet always feel comfortable. This balm is my favourite summer product from the range as it combats that burning feeling tired feet can bring when the weather’s hot. With menthol and peppermint oil, it cools, deodorises and moisturises.
For your face
Juvenate B-Hydrated 4D
I love to support New Zealand skincare companies, so for me this multi-active hydrating complex is a win-win. Designed to de-stress, soothe, smooth, strengthen and protect the skin while promoting collagen formation, it’s suitable for anyone concerned with hydration but extra-beneficial for those dealing with inflammation or acne.
For your nails
FABY nail lacquers
Cruelty-free and without toxic chemicals, Italian-made Faby nail polishes are considered among Europe’s most innovative. In a vast array of fashion colours, they’re formulated without the ‘big five’, so you can have fun using them to accessorise your summer look knowing they won’t compromise your nails or your overall health.
For your protection
Environ RAD Shield Mineral Sunscreen
Fewer chemicals but more complete protection designed to be applied more often, this is your safe, effective, daily shield against UVA, UVB, infrared rays and blue light. It combines powerful physical blockers zinc oxide and titanium oxide with a boost of antioxidant including vitamin E to minimise the free-radical damage triggered by UVA radiation.
Special treatments
Lash lifts & tints
A wonder treatment with all the benefits of extensions but none of the maintenance and trauma to your natural lashes, lash lifts make your lashes look longer but curling them gently upward, opening up the eyes for a more youthful look. The result is simply beautiful, with a tint to top them off that means mascara can be a thing of the past for several weeks. For a complete treatment, combine with a brow shape and tint.
Spray tans
There’s no doubt about it, a tan can make you look healthy, and with the Eco Tan line, a naturalistic tan is yours with no sun damage involved. Ingredients matter to me, so we offer the formulation that’s best for your skin and the environment, and this certified-organic range produces a beautiful colour almost immediately. We can also teach you how to care for your tan to give you a consistent look all summer long.
Pedicures
Want to look your best barefoot at the beach and in those summer sandals? Come and see us for a thorough Tranquillo pedicure. Winter feet are simply not ready to be summer feet without some TLC, so don’t let your neglected toenails let you down – let us soak away that dry, rough skin, then enjoy a invigorating, velvety massage finished with Faby nail polish for all the the glam with none of the nasties.
Bespoke facials
Summertime and the living is easy and more social too, so if you’d like to feel your best when you’re out and about, we can design a gorgeous facial for you to beautify your skin while relaxing your body and mind. Achieving an authentic healthy glow is so rewarding and our full facial analysis will help us tailor a treatment that’s perfect for you. Regular facials will also help to repair any skin damage and prevent warm-weather skin issues.
Better than ever
“I wanted Mount Skin & Body to be a community hub as well as a place you can sneak into to take some time for yourself, a place that appeals to all your senses and encourages you to take time out of your busy life.”
We talk to Mount Skin & Body owner Kelly Kingston on her clinic’s new look.
UNO: Mount Skin & Body has been at the heart of the beauty scene at the Mount for many years, but we love your salon refit – what did it entail?
KELLY: We’ve been here for 15 years now but have recently renovated the space to better reflect what we spend our time doing. It was a long process – two years of talking to clients, staff and industry professionals about where we’re headed – but I wanted Mount Skin & Body to be a community hub as well as a place you can sneak into to take some time for yourself, a place that appeals to all your senses and encourages you to take time out of your busy life.
I worked with talented people on the renovation, including Rachael Hackett-Jones of Rubix Design Collective, whose vision completely aligned with my ethos; she came up with elegant, sustainable ideas and really understood what would make our clients feel comfortable. My trust in her expertise meant I was able leave her to it and focus my attention on reinventing how we serve our clients.
Our beautiful new space includes an interactive skin bar and a secluded spot in which to relax before and after treatments, plus we’ve made it easy for people to pop
in to shop for skincare, make-up and gifts. We’ve also set aside a dedicated space to give our therapists more room to plan, write notes and relax between clients. The more organised and rested they are, the more our clients benefit.
UNO: In what other ways has your salon evolved to meet your clients’ needs?
KELLY: Personal and professional growth has always been very important to me. I believe our ongoing training helps improve both my team and our clients’ wellbeing. We’ve attended skin symposiums in France, the US, Australia and Queenstown to keep up with the best trends and treatments around the world, and we’ve also continually invested in technology to ensure we can offer the very best in beauty.
UNO: Do you have any new treatments on the menu to match your new look?
KELLY: We do! Collagen induction therapy has been our favourite for a while now, IPL and LED light therapy are relatively new additions, and more recently we launched dermaplaning and hydrabrasion, which is microdermabrasion with a water component – think your cleanest, smoothest skin yet. We’re also slowly reintroducing some of our popular spa treatments.
UNO: What else do you think makes Mount Skin & Body so special?
KELLY: Skin and personalised service are our true loves. We pride ourselves on delivering luxurious therapies that leave our clients feeling and looking radiant. The skin tells a story, so we take a holistic approach to any concerns, looking at all area of our clients’ lives and working together to discover the root cause. We also take care to use environmentally friendly and sustainable resources whenever we can.
As for personalised service – it requires a lot of energy and enthusiasm, so as a team we like to support each other and keep each other’s tanks full, which in turn ensures that our clients are well looked after. It’s really important to me that everyone on our team loves their job. I believe when people are happy in their work, it filters through to their family, and hopefully the community, too.
mountskinbody.co.nz