The art of ink
UNO talks to local experts about the transformation of the Bay’s tattoo industry and the healing power of this often misunderstood art form.
Words Karen Clarkson
In 2012, when celebrated tā moko artist Julie Paama-Pengelly (Ngāi Te Rangi) set up shop in Mount Maunganui, there were four tattoo studios in the area. Today, the local body-art industry has expanded to nearly 100 artists, operating from Waihi to Te Puke.
“Only a decade ago, the perception of the tattoo industry wasn’t positive. It sat within a genre which was not understood or recognised as mainstream. Aotearoa is now considered in the top five in the world as a destination for body art, and the scene here in the Bay of Plenty is as vibrant as ever,” says Julie, owner of Art + Body Creative Studio, which embraces a range of experienced artists offering contemporary tattoo alongside traditional tā moko and custom Māori design.
Overall, New Zealanders are becoming more discerning, respecting the honoured tradition and its therapeutic benefits, and selecting artists who value authenticity and originality. “For a while there it became a copying profession and people were wanting the same as a friend, or choosing a design straight from the wall. Tattoo is like any fine art form, where originality is what drives and defines what we do, and there is more appreciation for that now,” says Julie, who features in World Atlas of Tattoos, a book showcasing 100 notable artists from around the globe.
Tattoo as therapy
Tattoo artist Veronica de Oliveira, of Black Orchid Collective Studio, moved to New Zealand 20 years ago from Brazil and agrees the perception has changed radically. “When I first got my neck tattoo and walked around, people just stared. There is a renewed appreciation and respect for this form of self-expression, including its transformative power,” she says.
“Tattooing alters your state of consciousness,” she explains. “The chemicals your body produces to manage the discomfort changes the energetic field and transforms your body into a different state. When you alter the vibration, you can heal the cells, make new cellular memories, and create a new state of mind. It's a special, sacred process that can heal people,” Veronica says.
Julie agrees. “In the tā moko space, it is very much a therapy-based practice. Yes, there is execution, care and aesthetics that goes into the marking. But you’re also confronting pain, past trauma, covering scars or claiming a new path, which opens a healing, spiritual and cultural journey for people.”
The COVID-19 pandemic presented an interesting phenomenon for the local tattoo industry, with a huge spike in demand after lockdowns and studios booked out months ahead.
“People were confronted with mortality, loneliness, and disconnection from the world. They had time to research a meaningful piece of art that reflects their story, where they have come from and where they are going. For some, it was a way to mark a critical time in their life or to set a future goal,” Julie explains.
TRENDS
International artists sharing their work online and connecting with people globally have challenged stigmas, resulting in a range of ages and stages getting inked – from Gen-Z first-timers or groups of millenials wanting to memorialise something, to an 80-year-old ticking off their bucket list.
“Larger, colourful pieces seen on heavily tattooed people in Europe or America are gaining momentum here alongside full sleeves, legs, necks and heads. I recently did a project with an older lady, maybe in her 70s, who wanted to fully cover her back. It was a beautiful, vulnerable experience,” says Veronica.
Cover ups or redos are on the rise, too, with Kiwis wanting to reink old tattoos, or cover “regret” and “party” tattoos. “Some people go for years hiding a tattoo that reflects a bad memory or experience in their life. We can take something shameful and create something beautiful together,” says Veronica.
MODERN TECHNOLOGIES
From hand-tattooing to machine-produced designs, new technologies are constantly evolving and opening the doors to a range of clients desiring thinner, more stylised lines, shading, florals, and delicate work.
“The rise of portraiture and realism in the Bay of Plenty mirrors the growth internationally. Micro-tattooing allows portraits across smaller
areas using finer needles, different machines and ink,” says Veronica.
Julie credits the Māori art revival as playing an important role in the changing psyche of New Zealanders and popularity of tattoo. “We are highly regarded for tā moko and the work of Aotearoa tattoo artists is honoured around the world. Indigenous cultures that have embraced this sacred art form have created a pathway for tattoo in general,” she says.
“Tā moko and tattoos are one of the most powerful forms of communication. There's authentic connection and cultural function that is created through this historical practice. When you get a tattoo, you embody that art form, its power and healing, and share that everywhere you go.”
Read on to discover the many tattoo artists around the Bay.
Sacred honour
Veronica de Oliveira brings art and healing together through her collective of creatives.
While the Western world may have adopted tattooing in recent decades, ancient cultures around the world have performed this sacred art form for millennia. One local tattoo artist has set up a creative studio combining body art with holistic healing, products and services, all honouring a theme of healing, transformation and community.
Black Orchid Creative Studio in downtown Mount Maunganui is a collective of artists offering tattoos, hair and barber services, piercing, massage, coffee and healing reiki. Owned by Veronica de Oliveira, tattoo artist and mum of three, she is determined to transform the male-dominated industry, reclaiming its feminine history.
“Ancient cultures used body markings to acknowledge the energy of the divine feminine, and some of the earliest recorded tattoos were found on female Egyptian mummies. Considered gods of birth, Egyptian women were tattooed on the abdomen and upper thighs, to celebrate creation and provide protection over the birth,” she says.
Veronica studied Reiki and is passionate about increasing understanding about the transformative power of tattoos by offering a large range of healing modalities alongside body art. “Tattooing is a historic blood ritual that transforms energy through art to someone's skin. There's an opportunity for more people to be educated on this sacred experience for its ability to heal trauma, overcome shame, provide empowerment and increase body positivity,” says Veronica.
Inspired by her own journey to becoming a body art professional, Veronica believes with the accessibility of Youtube tutorials, and machines easily purchased online, it's important to create opportunities for the next generation to learn all the elements needed to become a professional tattoo artist.
“My goal is to create an educational platform and offer workshops, education and guest speakers so up-and-coming artists can not just hone their artistic talent, but learn about the history of tattoo, its healing powers, how to honour the client, as well as the ins and outs of running your own business,” she says.
Quick questions with Veronica de Oliveira
UNO: How long have you been in the industry?
Veronica: About seven years.
How did you become a tattoo artist?
I’ve always been an artist; I believe you are born like that. I am a self-taught person, and when something interests me, I can’t stop until I master it. Before tattooing, I was working as an interior and events designer and as a florist. I tried a friend’s tattoo machine once and never went back! I was quite good on it to start, which made me buy my own equipment. I’ve offered free tattoos for family and friends until I worked as a volunteer in the Tattoo & Art Extravaganza and met my mentor, Pepa, who gave me my first opportunity to work in a shop. By that time, I had two small children on my own. It was my return to work life, and I knew I was supposed to do something big with my life.
What do you love most about your job?
My job empowers me. Through art, I can transcend reality and bring happiness to people. My studio is my temple, my dream. I love to come to work, meet people, share energy and heal.
Do you have a favourite piece of work?
At the moment I’m working on a collection of star sign goddesses. I’m in love with it! I create large pieces with my clients’ astrology characteristics in a black and grey neo-traditional style.
Who and/or what inspires you?
I could name so many artists that inspire me, but my real inspiration comes from my family and my devotion to women, the Divine Feminine. I think we are so resilient, so powerful and beautiful. Most of my clients are women, and we learn so much from each other.
What do you think makes a good tattoo artist?
Drawing skills, creativity, drive, humility, compassion, cleanliness, good customer service, ethical professional mentality, good communication and understanding, intuitive people reading. Good common and aesthetic sense. Hunger for learning.
What do you think has changed positively in the tattoo industry in the last 10 years?
The increase of women in the industry and the technology. We now can rely on amazing equipment and material. Social media became a great marketing tool for artists to show their work. There is also less discrimination against tattooed people and artists. I also love that we see young and older people getting tattooed in the same room. Tattoo art has also evolved significantly – these days, artists are doing the most incredible art on peoples bodies.
What do you want to see in the future for the tattooing industry?
I would like to see more recognition
of the profession from governmental institutions through more regulations and more educational incentives to apprentices and mentors. At the moment, I’m in the planning phase of an introductory tattoo course and workshops, to be released next winter. I believe that so many people out there are trying to learn on their own and wanting some guidance, support
and the opportunity to succeed
in the profession.
Making her mark
Characterised by openness and support,
this tattoo studio balances the mana of its artists with deep respect for its clients.
Step into Art + Body Creative Studio in Mount Maunganui, and embrace a vibrant, collaborative, light-filled space buzzing with a large team of artists including tā moko and contemporary tattoo artists working alongside eager apprentices. The open-plan workshop, complete with
bus-theming throughout signifying the shared journey between artist and client, is the antithesis of the closed-off, traditional tattoo shop stereotype; a deliberate design by owner Julie Paama-Pengelly.
“When I opened ‘Body’, I wanted to reject the conventional male-led tattoo paradigm; expose the mainstream to the often hidden nature of the industry, while also demystifying tā moko. As a result, we have created an environment where the powerful, intimate and transformational practice of tattoos is shared and celebrated,” explains Julie.
Considered one of New Zealand’s leading tā moko artists, Julie (Ngāi Te Rangi), has played a key role in the revival of Māori arts since the 1980s. With a background as a university lecturer, arts faculty leader and renowned arts advisor, it was natural to combine her experience in education space with her commercial studio, evolving a pathway for apprentices since 2015.
“As client demand for experienced moko artists took off, I knew I had a role to play to support the succession of artists. More female practitioners were also coming to me asking, ‘How do we get access to more knowledge, more learning, more mentors?’, and I was passionate about supporting the rise of Māori women practising tā moko,” she explains.
In the last nine years Julie has trained over 20 artists, with one to two per year graduating to full-time employment at Art + Body Creative Studio or starting their own successful business.
“Our apprentices learn technical skills and hone their artistic niche, but at the forefront of our kaupapa is creating an environment to support the clients' physical, emotional and spiritual transformation. This includes learning protocols, tikanga, health and safety, and coordinating an open and supportive client dialogue - which is less about the purchase and more on creating an honourable, respectful exchange,” she explains.
Julie’s education work also extends beyond the studio, into orchestrating festivals, exchanges and exhibitions working to strengthen and enrich Māori arts and indigenous tattoo around the world. Toi Kiri, the world indigenous arts festival, developed by Julie and the team from Te Tuhi Māreikura Trust, was held in Tauranga last month. The fourth world indigenous tattoo event is held annually in October over 10 days, featuring a symposium, exhibition and public event showcasing 45 tattoo artists and 200 cultural performers from 16 different nations around the world.
“We have worked hard to create a healthy and vibrant tā moko and tattoo community in Tauranga, and as a result of the vision here, New Zealand is at the forefront of an international movement supporting the revitalisation and exhibition of indigenous arts around the world,” says Julie.
Tā moko on display
Julie Paama-Pengelly is one of eight cultural tattoo practitioners selected to take part in a world-first exhibition at the Museum of Vancouver in 2024. Internationally-acclaimed tattoo artist Dion Kaszas is curating “True Tribal: Contemporary Expressions of Ancestral Tattoo Practices”, an exhibition featuring podcasts, documentary, live performances, living portraits and a photographic exhibition; all celebrating the work of contemporary indigenous tattoo artists around the world.
Quick questions with Julie Paama-Pengelly
UNO: What's your background? How did you become a tattoo artist?
Julie: I have a background in design and did an undergraduate degree in anthropology, which gave me a cultural context to Māori ethnography, world view, and also the importance of our historical art objects. This led to an interest in Māori and Pacific Island development and a Masters of Third World Development. I then did a Bachelor and a Masters in Māori Visual Arts and went on to teach at Massey University School of Design, doing tā moko on the weekends. Tā moko is a cultural signifier of identity and pride; in the early days, it was a community practice that happened on marae and in whanau contexts, as part of the ongoing reclamation of health and wellbeing for Māori.
How long have you been in the industry?
I have been applying tā moko for more than 30 years, at times around my other roles as teacher, writer, exhibiting artist, and parent to two children. When I moved to Tauranga to be closer to my tribal base (I’m from Matakana and Matapihi), I saw the contrast between an affluent Western community and the relative position that Māori now occupied in Tauranga after suffering loss of land and capacity during colonisation. In 2011, I decided to open a studio to locate tā moko within other tattoo practices, to clarify the relative differences between tā moko and tattoo, and to engender further acceptance of tā moko – particularly facial markings which had historically faced discrimination in Western tattoo history.
How would you describe your style?
I am a tā moko specialist and since I have been practicing for an extended length of time, this practice has developed quite a bit. I understand that the principles of tā moko design are underpinned by an inherited language vocabulary (Māori didn't have a written language so our arts served a powerful role), and once you know this, its up to the tā moko artist to expand on this and to reflect the changing nature of Māori experiences and society. When non-Māori copy tā moko, they fail to understand the language system, the design meaning as a personalised engagement between the wearer, their community and Māori ancestors, connecting us with our ancestors throughout time.
Do you have a specialty or area of expertise and if so what?
Within tā moko, I now focus most of my attention to doing moko kauae (the chin area) and moko peha (the lower back, buttocks and down the legs) on women. My body doesn't hold up like it used to, so my focus is now on what I can contribute to the ongoing practice of tā moko. As one of the few female practitioners, it is important for me to consider what unique voice I bring and how I can help keep the art form current into the future.
What do you love most about your job?
Tā moko is all about the people, and while this requires energy, it is the most rewarding part of the job. Particularly the therapy that we each share on the journey, what their story is, their hurdles and celebrations, and being able to collaborate to bring forth something that holds the meaning of generations of Māori. With bigger pieces where clients return time after time, they become family and we all feel connected, and this affects our studio too. Some clients will seek out our other artists to get pieces that reflect their specialties, which makes for a really nice working environment.
Tell us about your most memorable experience with a client.
This is a difficult one, but I have had affirmation of the healing power that tā moko can have. One client who received a significant piece (some
60 hours of work) as a moko peha had a significant history of understanding that she couldn't conceive. She went on to have a child four years later, and more recently reflected that the moko peha might have contributed to this.
Do you have a favourite piece of work?
I treasure my large projects the most, as they allow me to build a significant design relationship between the elements as well as a bond with the receiver. My original first full moko peha piece on Jeanette Rata in 2004 still resonates with me, because the work flowed quite spontaneously from session to session, and the image has been widely viewed so I have had plenty of time to be critical of the work. My current moko peha piece on Erena Mikaere represents how my practice has developed over a 20-year period.
What inspires you?
The work of my ancestors, particularly when I see photos and marvel at the expertise of what they executed with tools fashioned from nature. They remind me of why it’s important to continue this practice, not necessarily to replicate their work, but to look at how they responded to the world. If only we had more primary material from artists back then! I am also inspired by everyone that takes on the commitment to wear tā moko. It’s a mark of bravery and a commitment to wear their identity, experiences and journey forever. They are the ultimate muse, creative influence and legacy for our tā moko traditions.
Art with heart
Pepa Heller of Bohemian Tattoo Arts in Tauranga strives to provide a friendly, relaxed atmosphere in his well-established, legendary parlour, with plenty of talent to choose from.
UNO: How long has Bohemian Tattoo Arts been open?
Pepa: We opened the studio in 2002, so we've been established for more than 20 years now.
Did you have a big party to celebrate the anniversary?
Not quite a party but we wanted to do something special that would also support the wider community, especially those in need of help. We also wanted to express gratitude to our clients and supporters, so we decided to run a mental health awareness fundraising project for I AM HOPE. It took us more than a year in preparation and about four months to execute.
What was the project about?
One of our team members, Jeffrey Robinson, had the idea of coming up with an animation in support of mental health. It consisted of 100 sketches of John Dory fish in support of men's mental health. The storyline is that the fish was absorbing a lot of darkness and negativity and became sad, only to realise that it could speak 'bubble' to become a happy fish once again. This was to represent mental health struggles. Everyone was really excited about this, so we decided to go ahead with it. The task was to tattoo 101 animation frames on 101 people. All profits were donated to I AM HOPE. Tattooing that many people takes a lot of time, so we called for more tattoo aficionados, mostly the ex-Bohemian crew to help us out. By the time we finished, it had taken us four months to complete all 101 tattoos. We are very happy to have fundraised over $15,000 for a great cause.
That's amazing. How many artists worked on the project and how many do you have in the studio?
Fifteen artists took part in completing the John Dory frames. We have eight amazing tattoo artists at the studio at the moment.
Could you elaborate on your artists and their styles?
Our team, from four different continents, consists of incredible talent and covers a broad spectrum of tattoo art styles. I cover large-scale realism/freehand kirituhi, while Julie of Reconnectink has her own unique style that is strongly connected to nature and good energy. We are both from Czech Republic. Grace of Ink_trek (NZ) is a master of fine lines, mandala art and stipple shading. Paul Collier (NZ) is amazing with large-scale colour and black and white realism. Bryn of spookeestuff.tattoo (UK/NZ) specialises in traditional tattoo style with solid lines and fine shading. Matias of Eme_Ese from Argentina is a solid artist on the rise. Sanjay of Swostiktattoo (Nepal) holds a Masters degree in Arts and focuses on oriental style and realism. Last but not least, Aidan Holland (NZ) covers most styles. Just as cherished and important is our shop manager, Aja, along with professional piercer Olive, both hailing from Bohemia, Czech Republic.
What do you think makes a great tattoo?
I believe there must be a great deal of understanding and good communication between the artist and the client. The client needs to be tattooed by an artist whose style aligns with what the client wants. We are very fortunate to be able to cover most styles of tattooing at Bohemian Tattoo Arts. A great tattoo must strike a balance between scale, proportion, and flow while meeting the client's goal.
How do you work with clients to create a custom design?
First, we arrange for a free, no-obligation consultation, during that time we discuss the client's ideas and offer our own professional input. For the best possible result, it is important to come to a mutual understanding regarding the concept. Once we strike that balance, an appointment is determined and we start designing.
What's the most interesting tattoo you've ever done?
My awesome client Brent gave me his full back to do whatever I wanted, so naturally, I reached for a portrait of a majestic horse. During the first session, to my surprise, Brent was keen to make the commitment and come along with me to the Las Vegas Tattoo Convention in only four weeks. At that point, it sounded impossible to finish such a large-scale tattoo, but in the end, that’s exactly what we did. There were a lot of hours squeezed into a short time, but it was well worth it.
What do you love most about your job?
I am the luckiest man in the world to have the job that I do. It is creative and intimate; I get to know my clients very well and I feel privileged to be part of their life and journey. In the end, they will never be the same after they leave my chair.
Do you have a favourite piece of work?
The personality of my client and the project itself go hand in hand to determine my favourite projects, and there are a lot of these. So, if you’re reading this, and have a tattoo in mind, don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Body of work
With almost 20 years of history, this tattoo studio is a multi-generational hub of creativity, where originality and custom designs take centre stage.
Originally established in Dunedin in 2004, Visual Intelligence is a boutique-style tattoo studio, which recently moved to Pāpāmoa from the Mount. With three tattoo artists – Aaron, Emily and Kyah – the studio has a combined experience of almost 50 years. Macaela, who paints canvases for the studio gallery, is the manager and what the staff call the “organiser of everyone’s lives”. The studio specialises in all styles of tattooing and offers a friendly, professional and personalised service, together with high-quality artwork, in a comfortable and relaxed environment.
Here UNO asks the team a few burning questions.
UNO: How long have you been in the industry?
Aaron: Visual Intelligence has just celebrated its 19th birthday! I’ve been tattooing for 26 years, Emily for 20 years, and Kyah for two years.
How would you describe your style?
Aaron: We don't box ourselves into one particular style. We specialise in all styles of tattooing, from realism/portraits, to Tā Moko and Polynesian, full-colour, black and grey, illustrative, neo-trad, fineline, and everything in-between. We also custom design almost all of our work because, first and foremost, we are artists.
What is your favourite style of tattooing?
Aaron: I prefer big, bold custom work in black and grey or colour – tattoos that are built to last and will stand the test of time. I also have a large portfolio of Tā Moko/Māori, Polynesian and Japanese-style work.
Emily: I love illustrative and neo-traditional art, but am happy to do all styles of tattooing.
Kyah: I’m Aaron's apprentice and son, so I’m following in Dad's footsteps. I have a passion for tā moko/Māori, Polynesian and Japanese art.
What do you think makes a great tattoo?
Macaela: A customised design which has been skilfully executed, aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and one that both the artist is happy with and the client is proud to wear. It's also important to note that even a perfectly executed tattoo needs to be followed up with a perfectly well-healed tattoo. We provide personalised aftercare advice which is the responsibility of the client. This would include keeping the fresh tattoo clean at all times and out of the sun, sand and surf, using an aftercare product specifically for tattoos, and even once healed, using sunscreen whenever exposed to the outdoors.
How do you work with clients to create a custom design?
Macaela: The client would come to us with an idea or reference images and we then go through a consultation process, with the artist talking through their ideas, what will and won't work, size and placement and whether they're wanting colour or black and grey. Consulting with the client eliminates the need for multiple designs to be done, as a solid tattoo plan is discussed prior to any designing. There also needs to be an element of trust between client and artist. At the end of the day, the client has come to us through either a recommendation or because they've loved the work they've seen, and are happy to wait months in advance for a booking. Some clients like to see a design prior to their booking; however, most trust our process and only see their design on the day of their booking.
What inspired you to become a tattoo artist? What is your background? How did you become a tattoo artist?
Aaron: I’ve been drawing since I could hold a pencil and I’ve been an artist my whole life. Drawing and design led me to becoming a self-taught tattoo artist and eventually Macaela and I opened Visual Intelligence in Dunedin in 2004. I also enjoy digital art and painting in oils and acrylics, and as well as being a tattoo artist, I was an aerosol artist for many years in Dunedin, painting large-scale murals. More recently I’ve been busy with commissions for custom-carved skate decks, inspired by my love for music, art, culture, skating and tattooing.
Emily: I was brought up in West London and, as a teenager, was into the punk scene and also enjoyed designing tattoos for friends to get tattooed by other tattoo artists. I was always stoked to see my own designs as tattoos on my friends and one of them suggested I should look for an apprenticeship. I approached one of the best tattoo studios in West London for an apprenticeship, and that's where it all started! I have since tattooed in London, Perth and Sydney, and then joined the
Visual Intelligence team in 2018. I also enjoy painting in oils, acrylics and watercolours.
Kyah: My parents are Aaron and Macaela and I’ve basically been brought up in a tattoo studio my whole life. I’ve always been surrounded by their art and seeing what my dad could do in the tattoo studio inspired me to focus on my art at college. In my final year, I received the Mana Toi Tāne Award, which is awarded to "the male student who represents their culture through visual arts with perserverance, commitment and pride." I also completed a Certificate in Art & Design at Toi Ohomai and started my tattoo journey in 2021.
What makes your studio unique?
Macaela: Our studio not only produces high-quality, custom work, but also provides our clients with an experience. We have a beautiful new studio in Pāpāmoa and our environment is a professional hub of creativity, artistic flair, with a personalised service created for each individual client. Our clients feel welcomed, listened to and looked after throughout their tattoo journey. The majority of our clients are also repeat customers and are always thinking ahead and discussing with us the next project they wish us to help them undertake, whether that be on skin, canvas or a wall!