Home away from home

If Tauranga’s Redoubt Eatery isn’t already your local, get down there for some comfortable vibes, good conversation and signature Sticky Chicken.

Words Dan Collins  |  Photos Erin Cave

Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came. Those may be the lyrics to the theme tune of the old classic sitcom Cheers, but for Jacob Henderson, proprietor of Redoubt Eatery, they’re words to live by. “Redoubt is your home away from home,” he says when UNO pops in on a sunny Tauranga afternoon. “You get greeted by name. You don’t have to try too hard or try and be cool. It’s that kind of place.”

Situated about halfway down Tauranga’s picturesque promenade of The Strand, it’s that easygoing and down-to-earth attitude that typifies and differentiates the Redoubt experience. It’s welcoming and unpretentious. The kind of place that knows your name and what you drink, and gets them ready for you as you walk in.

“You don’t have to study a wine list that’s got five sauv blancs, you’ve just got the one,” Jacob says by way of example. “It’s good. It’s reliable. You feel safe and comfortable.” Jacob’s fresh perspective on what makes a place worth visiting could stem from the fact that he’s new to the Tauranga scene and excited to be here. “We’ve got one Redoubt Eatery in Morrinsville and one in Matamata,” he says. “We wanted to see if what we do is good enough to work in the big city.”

It may have only opened its doors in August but it certainly seems to be working. There are plenty of people coming through the doors and, most importantly to Jacob, an ever-growing number of regulars settling in and making Redoubt their local.

He describes the move into town as a happy accident. His cousin walked past one day earlier this year and saw that the previous establishment was for sale. He called Jacob, who immediately spotted the potential. “We thought it was the best location, being on the corner here, and with that deck upstairs. Initially, we thought that deck might be a pain, but it’s such a great area. It’s one of the few places along here where you can see out into the harbour.”

Those gorgeous elevated harbour views are bound to make it a favourite for long summer lunches or post-work evening drinks. “Just about every second person is asking for a table up there. We’re praying for that weather!” he jokes.

With seating for 70 people, Redoubt should be able to accommodate most sun-chasers. But to be on the safe side, you can always book a table. In fact, Jacob says, the team are happy to accommodate wherever they can. It’s all part of making Redoubt Eatery feel like a second home. It’s a philosophy that’s come from Redoubt being a part of his family legacy.

“The first Redoubt Eatery opened in 1999 in Te Awamutu. That was opened by my parents,” he says. “In 2002 my wife and I were overseas. My father rang and asked if I wanted to lease the pub. We said yes, came back and leased the pub for about two years while they went overseas.”

When his parents returned, it was obvious there were now too many chefs in the kitchen, so Jacob and his wife started looking around. In 2006 they opened a Redoubt Eatery in Matamata. The original in Te Awamutu was sold around 2016 so is no longer part of the family. However, Matamata was going so well that they opened a Redoubt Eatery in Morrinsville in 2018.

“Morrinsville doesn’t have a huge amount of eateries,” he says. “It’s nice to go to a place where you’re needed and it was a great opportunity. You always like to think you’re pretty cool and that what you do would work everywhere. Morrinsville went really well. When we went from one to two, it didn’t feel like a huge strain. We’ve got a bit of confidence. That’s why we got so excited about The Strand and thought, ‘What we do could work.’”

That said, some things have been tweaked for the Tauranga market. The decor and fit-out is fairly similar, with sports photos and memorabilia – like an autographed Mike Tyson boxing glove and photos of famous local sports heroes – decorating the walls, but the food and drinks menus have been given a slight makeover. Again, with the specific goal of making you feel relaxed.

“We don’t want people to feel intimidated. We don’t want you to have pretend that you know what certain words mean you know,” he laughs. “We want it to be very Kiwi-themed and comfortable. Certainly good and certainly fresh and seasonal. That goes without saying. But I don’t want anyone to feel intimidated when you’re in here. People can pick up the bone and stuff like that.”

He says they kept on some of the staff from the previous establishment, including the head chef Johnny, who presented his new owners with some ideas for the menu. “It was really impressive. His food is bloody good,” Jacob enthuses. “So the menu is different from Matamata and Morrinsville, except for one dish.”

This is Redoubt Eatery’s secret weapon, their hit. The one thing he knew they had to serve. “It’s called the Sticky Chicken. It’s our biggest seller in Matamata. It’s our biggest seller in Morrinsville and now it’s our biggest seller in Tauranga,” he grins as he talks about the chicken dish that comes drizzled in a ginger sauc and served on coconut rice. “It’s comfort food. We can’t take it off. It just goes off. It’s one of the few dishes that’s on the lunch and dinner menu.”

Again, the word “comfort” comes up when Jacob talks about Redoubt. It’s something incredibly important to him, and it turns out there’s a very good reason why. “When I was 19, I was travelling the world and ended up in this town in West Cork, Ireland called Clonakilty. The first day I was there, I went into this pub and the guy behind the bar urged me to try a Murphys and introduced me to a couple of locals. About a week later I was still jobless, running out of money and it was raining. I was thinking my dreams of travelling the world were over. I walked back into the pub and Barry was behind the bar again. He went, ‘Jacob! How are ya mate? Here’s your Murphys.’I just felt like I belonged, and he made me feel special. I thought, ‘This is where I want to be.’ I stayed there for two years. It turned everything around. “That’s what we want to do. It’s so cool to walk in and have someone say, ‘G’day, Jake, here’s your drink.’” 

That’s the vibe Jacob wants to create. A home away from a home. A place where everybody knows your name and… Well, you get the idea. This philosophy of creating a community even  extends to the photos lining the walls. “The vast majority of the pictures on the wall are of Tauranga things, Tauranga heroes or Tauranga villains. We’re always looking to grow that,” he explains before giving an example.

“I was talking to a mate and his son won the New Zealand freestyle scooter award. He’s a kid, 15 years old, and does triple flips and stuff. We’re gonna get his photo and put it up on the wall. He’ll sit next to Kane Williamson there – who goes without introduction,” he says pointing to a blank spot beside the Tauranga-raised Black Caps captain.

“That’s what makes a good local!” Jacob exclaims. “What I want is for you to be able to sit here and go, ‘That’s my bloody neighbour on the wall!' Because then you feel like you belong there. Eventually, these walls will be covered. I want a photo of your second cousin who played hockey for New Zealand in 1985. People like that. I reckon that’s worthy of being on the wall.”

Jacob’s vision for Redoubt Eatery – and, of course, its signature dish, the Sticky Chicken – should ensure it’s a hit. A relaxed place where you can go with your mates to catch up and chill out with a drink or two and grab something delicious to eat. If only there was a word for something like that. Turns out there is. “One of the meanings of the word Redoubt is ‘a place of refuge or safe haven’,” Jacob smiles. “So I quite like that as well.” 

redoubt.nz/the-strand

Get crafty

If your beer knowledge is a little cloudy, then
Mount Brewing Co’s head brewer Pawel Lewandowski is the perfect can-noisseur to clarify the common craft beer varieties.

 Photo + Styling Roz McIntosh

XPA

Golden Hour Hazy XPA 4.7%

Hazy IPA is a unique bond created between malt, hops and yeast and like the name implies it has a cloudy appearance. Golden Hour – Hazy XPA has lower than regular IPA alcohol content, much drier body yet a fruity, juicy hoppy hit (think passionfruit, green pineapple, lime with a touch of coconut) delivered by careful selection of American and New Zealand hops, malts and yeast. 

APA

Mermaid's Mirth 6%

American pale ale replaces traditional English hops with modern bold, citrus, tropical, pine-like American varieties. APA continues to evolve as breweries experiment with different local ingredients. It's one of the most food-friendly beers that goes very well with meat and cheese. We brew our clean, crisp, medium-bodied Mermaid's Mirth only with American hops.

Pilsner

Mountie 5.2%

All pilsners are lagers, but not all lagers are pilsners. Pilsner is always bright in colour, should be more bitter and hoppy than lager yet smoother with more malt characteristics than IPA. Mountie is brewed with four different New Zealand hops, giving it a more grassy, citrusy and bitter flavour than lager, which makes this pilsner a more complex drinking experience.

NZ IPA

Sea Beast 6%

Indian Pale Ale originated in England for shipping to the British colonies in India in the 18th century. It was pale only compared to the usual darker brews of the day, quite hoppy and had a higher alcohol content (a great preservative for the long trip to India). A good example of a modern IPA is our Sea Beast. It's brewed using only Kiwi hops, giving it a gooseberry, citrusy, floral and piney flavour. It's bitter and balanced with arich malt character.  

New England IPA

Crazy Hazy Daze 6.4%

A go-to for lovers of beer in its prime – unfined and unfiltered. Our New England IPA, where bitterness
along with big hoppiness
is balanced with a fuller and rich body, is packed with Citra, Amarillo and Nelson Sauvin hops used only in the whirlpool and dry hop addition, bringing a mango, passionfruit, zesty-like flavour and aroma. 

Lager

Relax it's only a lager 4%

This type of beer tends to be less hoppy than pilsner, easier to drink in bigger quantities and, like Relax, it should be clean, crisp and refreshing. A lager uses simpler ingredients so it's far more difficult to brew nice, clean lager that is free from off flavours — because all the mistakes occurred during the brewing process are much harder to cover, which is why we use the best brewing equipment and processes. 

IG: mountbrewingco.brewery

mountbrewingco.com 

Plant-based pleasers

Raglan local Emma Galloway shares some
of her most popular recipes from her latest cookbook, Every Day.

Words EMMA GALLOWAY
photos supplied

Emma Galloway’s website, My Darling Lemon Thyme, is responsible for introducing what were once alternative ingredients into many Kiwi homes. These gluten-free, vegan recipes from Every Day are so packed with delicious flavour and nutrition, they might even convince the most ardent meat eater to become flexitarian. From a spicy Vietnamese noodle dish and protein-packed burgers, to the flavourful Middle Eastern pilaf and chocolate-topped cheesecake bars, these recipes will cater to many requisites – but mainly to great taste.

Tempeh + mushroom burgers with smashed avocado

These burger patties keep well in the fridge for a couple of days – chill for at least 30 minutes before cooking because this helps keep them together. Store-bought gluten-free bread has come a long way and good gluten-free burger buns are now readily available. 

Makes 4 | Gluten-free | Vegan

INGREDIENTS 

1 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, finely diced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

250g button mushrooms, trimmed and finely chopped

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped 

1 tsp paprika

250g packet tempeh, roughly chopped

30g gluten-free breadcrumbs

Fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil, to cook

4 gluten-free burger buns, sliced in half

1 large ripe avocado, smashed in a bowl with a little lemon juice, salt and pepper

Good-quality mayonnaise (vegan or regular), pesto, lettuce or microgreens, red onion, tomato relish and avocado, to serve

Method 

Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add oil and onion and cook, stirring often, for 4–5 minutes or until tender and golden. Add garlic, finely chopped mushroom and thyme and cook, stirring often, for a good 5–8 minutes or more, until the mushrooms have released their juices and these have evaporated, so they’re almost dry, tender and golden (this is important because you don’t want any excess moisture or your patties won’t hold together). Add paprika and cook for a further 20–30 seconds. 

Transfer to a food processor, add tempeh and breadcrumbs and pulse until finely ground. Season with salt and pepper. Shape into 4 large patties, cover and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days if preparing ahead of time. 

If you don’t have a food processor, finely chop the tempeh, add onion mixture and breadcrumbs then, using your hands, scrunch everything together until it holds its shape. Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add a splash of olive oil and cook the patties for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until golden. Grill buns on the cut side until golden. 

Spread a little mayonnaise and pesto onto the base of each burger bun, then add a patty, a few microgreens or lettuce, some onion slices or pickled red onions. Top with smashed avocado and spread a little relish on the cut side of the top bun and place over.

Note: The patties can be frozen for up to 3 months – just defrost in the fridge overnight before using.

Black pepper tofu bún cha

Bún cha is a grilled pork and noodle dish from Hanoi, Vietnam, served with piles of herbs and the famous nuoc mam cham dipping sauce made with fish sauce, lime/vinegar, sugar, chilli and garlic. Here’s a vegan take, with peppery tofu and a soy sauce-based version of nuoc mam cham, served with tasty sweet and sour Vietnamese pickles which you can make 4 to 5 days in advance and store in the fridge.

Serves 3–4 | Gluten-free | Vegan

Ingredients
DRESSING

2 tbsp gluten-free soy sauce

2 tbsp brown/white rice vinegar

2 tbsp golden caster sugar

1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped (de-seed for less heat)

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

BLACK PEPPER TOFU

Coconut or olive oil

300g packet firm tofu, cubed

2 tbsp gluten-free soy sauce

1 tbsp pure maple syrup or golden caster sugar

2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Rice vermicelli, cooked according to packet instructions or soaked in boiling water for 10–15 minutes, then drained

Baby cos lettuce, sliced

Cucumber + mint leaves to serve

Method

To make the dressing, combine dressing ingredients in a small jar and shake well.

To make the black pepper tofu, heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add a little oil and pan-fry tofu until golden on all sides. Reduce heat and add soy sauce, maple syrup and black pepper. Continue to cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens and the tofu is golden and coated.

To serve, arrange rice vermicelli in bowls, top with black pepper tofu, arrange a handful of lettuce leaves, some sliced cucumber and mint leaves in each bowl and drizzle a little dressing over the top.

Carrot + daikon pickles

Ingredients

100ml boiling water

65g (⅓ cup) golden caster sugar

½ tsp fine salt

100ml brown/white rice vinegar

1 carrot, finely shredded (use a mandolin or finely slice with a knife)

1 cup finely shredded daikon (approx ¼ of a large daikon)

Method

To make the pickles, combine boiling water, sugar and salt in a bowl then stir until dissolved. 

Add vinegar and set aside to cool completely, before adding the grated carrot and daikon. 

Mix well and set aside for at least 30 minutes.

Tomato pilaf with black lentils and caramelised onion

This delicious and nutritious almost-one-pan-meal was inspired by Turkish tomato pilaf and Mujadara, a tasty combination of rice, lentils and onions found throughout the Middle East. This dish manages to extract every ounce of flavour from just a handful of simple ingredients. Use puy-style or brown lentils in place of black lentils, if you prefer.

Serves 4 | Gluten-free | Vegan

Ingredients

115g black (beluga) lentils, rinsed well

60ml olive oil

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

250g vine or cherry tomatoes, finely chopped

340g white basmati rice, rinsed and drained well

750ml water

Coriander leaves, roughly chopped, to serve

Caramelised onions

2 tbsp olive oil

3 onions, finely sliced

Fine salt, to taste

Method

Place lentils into a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and set aside.

Heat a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add oil and garlic and cook for 30 seconds, before adding chopped tomato. Cook, stirring often, for 3–4 minutes, or until soft and juicy.
Add rice and stir then add water and a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside with the lid on for a further 10 minutes.

To make the caramelised onions, as soon as your rice is happily cooking away, heat oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, for 20–25 minutes or until deeply golden, taking care in the final 5–10 minutes to ensure the bottom doesn’t catch and burn. Season with salt. These can be prepared in advance and will store in a glass jar in the fridge for up to 3 days.

When the rice is cooked, remove the lid, stir through lentils, adjust seasoning if needed and serve topped with caramelised onions and chopped coriander.

Cardamom + dark chocolate “cheesecake” bars 

A great make-ahead dessert as it stores 4–5 days in the fridge. Use freshly ground cardamom seeds for fuller flavour but cardamom spice works fine, too. Start this recipe the night before to soak the cashews. Tip: Cashew pieces are cheaper than whole ones and give the same result.

Makes 12–14 slices | Gluten-free | Vegan

Ingredients
Base

240g dried pitted dates, roughly chopped

100g raw almonds

1 tbsp virgin coconut oil, melted

Filling

375g raw cashew nuts, soaked overnight in cold water and drained well

185ml virgin coconut oil, melted

125ml freshly squeezed lemon juice

125ml pure maple syrup

2 tsp vanilla extract

¼ tsp fine salt

2 tsp ground cardamom

Chocolate topping

85g dairy-free dark chocolate, roughly chopped

60ml coconut milk

2 tbsp pure maple/brown rice syrup

Method

Soak the cashews overnight.

To make the cheesecake base, line a 28cm x 18cm slice tin with baking paper, overlapping the sides by 2cm. Put the pitted dates, almonds and melted coconut oil into a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Press the mixture into the tin, using the back of a spoon to pack it in firmly.

To make the filling, place all the filling ingredients into a high-powered blender and blend on high until smooth. If you don’t have a high-powered blender, finely grind the cardamom seeds in a mortar and pestle first, before adding to the blender. Pour the mixture over the base and smooth the top. Allow to set in the fridge for at least 6 hours or preferably overnight.

To make the chocolate topping, place the dark chocolate into a small heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of boiling water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl. Add the coconut milk and the maple/brown rice syrup and heat gently until melted. If it starts to look a little split (this can happen because of the coconut milk), whisk to bring it back together into a smooth sauce. When just melted, remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly, before spreading over the cheesecake. Return to the fridge until set. Once set, slice into 12–14 bars, using a sharp knife warmed under running hot water.

Pearl of the Bay

Good food, good coffee and good vibes are top priorities for
the new owners of Pāpāmoa’s award-winning Pearl Kitchen.

Words Monique Balvert-O’Connor Photos Rachel Hadfield

Nestled in the heart of Coast Boulevard in Pāpāmoa Beach, Pearl Kitchen has become an iconic spot, with an amazing team behind it.

A relaxed place, with an ethos centred on delivering “banging coffee, delicious food and vibrant staff”, it's the perfect place to enjoy hearty food packed with ingredients by local growers and suppliers. And it’s also a “go to” on Friday night, offering drinks, tapas and gourmet pizza, to unwind after the working week.

How good does all that sound? It gets better. Pearl Kitchen is the winner of the most recent Bay Hospitality Awards’ Outstanding Café accolade.

To its many loyal followers, the award was no surprise. Just ask one customer who travels from Whakatāne and back specifically for breakfast Pearl Kitchen style. And, in the words of a local: “Gorgeous and well thought out design and layout, fabulous service, delicious and interesting food, perfect coffee, atmosphere, and diet choice sensitivity from staff.”

It's little wonder that Chanel and Justin Rawiri are immensely proud to now own this winning eatery. They’re quick to assure little will be changing, although, of course, a seasonally appropriate menu will be introduced in late October (with the old faves remaining).

“We couldn’t be more excited to join such a talented team and amazing community,” Justin says.

“The key message from us is that we fell in love with Pearl Kitchen just the way it is, so aren’t planning to make any significant changes. It will be the same great team, relaxing vibe, scrumptious food and delicious coffee."

The whole team remains, led by Nigel Reid and Kirsty Moore. Along with key staff David Stuart and Tanesha Horsburgh, all were instrumental in the café’s award-winning success, and are celebrated members of the Pearl Kitchen team with serious credentials, Justin praises.

Chef Nigel Reid started his career as protégé of top New Zealand chef Simon Gault. After a seven-year stint overseas, Nigel returned to become Simon's right-hand man as group head chef for the Nourish Group. Cooking in London for a group of restaurants (under the Cubitt House umbrella), he had the opportunity to serve some of the world's elite and even some royals. Back in New Zealand he’s played an integral part in setting up top eateries. He includes Pearl Kitchen on that list. 

Nigel, who loves people who love food, can be found front and centre in Pearl's open kitchen warmly welcoming its patrons each day. His recipes are inspired by travel, family and the seasons. 

“Creating and leading with passion, I share my own brand of honest and exciting cookery,” he says.

Front-of-house manager Kirsty Moore hails from Edinburgh, Scotland. Armed with a degree in History of Art and Design and a Master’s degree in marketing, she arrived in New Zealand six years ago seeking a complete lifestyle change after working as a marketing manager. Queenstown beckoned and she managed Mrs Ferg (part of the famous Fergburger empire) there. Tauranga has been home for two years. There’s much to love about working at Pearl Kitchen, she says, such as the great work-life balance, family culture, love for customers, fun environment and delicious food.

David Stuart also hails from Edinburgh and happens to be engaged to Kirsty. David studied Culinary Arts and Food Preparation and worked as a chef in Vietnam, then in Melbourne, and also at an award-winning cocktail bar (with a focus on small bites) in Edinburgh. Add to that five years clocked up as head chef of a Mexican restaurant in Queenstown, before moving to Pearl Kitchen as sous chef. His experience and knowledge of Asian-style dishes influences Pearl Kitchen’s much-enjoyed Friday night tapas menu.

Rosario Ross Murro identified his passion for pizza at an early age – he began work as a pizza chef at 14! From Puglia, Italy (a region known for its great food and beaches), Rosario makes a true Italian-style pizza with hand-stretched sourdough and fresh ingredients, cooked in Pearl Kitchen’s wood-fired oven. He has been in New Zealand for four years, working in Melbourne beforehand.

Love a good cocktail? If yes, then chances are you may already know of Tanesha Horsburgh. This Pāpāmoa local studied Food and Beverage Hotel Management before finding her niche in hospitality. She moved from Auckland to help open Pearl Kitchen, where she now looks after the bar and drinks menu. Her Friday night cocktail specials are a highlight of the week for many customers.

As for new owners, Chanel and Justin, they’re proud to have such an excellent team of 17, and excited to be part of the greater Pearl Kitchen community. The couple moved from Auckland with their young apprentices – Charlotte (4) and Georgia (2.5) – to a region that was already familiar. Justin grew up in Tauranga, and both have family here. 

“We are both foodies and we bought Pearl Kitchen because we love it," says Chanel. "We look forward
to becoming part of such a great community." 

Pearl Kitchen, 20 Coast Boulevard
Open: Saturday – Thursday 8am–2pm
Friday 8am–8pm (Happy Hour 4pm-6pm)

Pearlkitchen.co.nz

Insta: pearlcafecoast

Perfect match

These scintillating summer pours from Mount Brewing Co. will tantalise your tastebuds and keep you cool on the hot, sunny days to come. Find your favourite and match with our delicious meal suggestions.

Words Hayley Barnett / Photo Emma Galloway

Feijoa GIN & TONIC - Tempting tangy tipple

You can’t go past the sweet-yet-tart taste of the country’s favourite seasonal fruit, the humble feijoa. Meal match with your favourite blue cheese and a drizzle of honey for a complementary kick.

Peach & Apricot GIN & SODA - Fresh and delicate

Two summer stone fruits, muddled with gin and soda, this mix creates a drink that’s perfect for the beach and beyond. When dining at home match with the spicy heat of a rogan josh.

Pink GIN & TONIC - Charm in a can

Crisp premium gin and tonic comes blended with juicy red raspberries, to give it a taste to die for. Pair with lamb kebabs cooked in a berry marinade and, voilà, you have your barbecue menu sorted.

Classic APPLE CIDER - Cool, timeless classic

Traditionally made apple cider is given a makeover by blending it with fresh and juicy apples. Not too sweet, not too dry, apple cider is perfectly matched with a roast pork fillet salad.

Dark n’ Stormy CIDER - Spice up your life

Real ginger, molasses and spices make up this unique and delicious cider. With a medium-sweet cider base, the aroma is familiar, but really kicks off when paired with a spiced ginger pud. 

Strawberry & Lime CIDER - Here comes the sun

Cool down with a fruity thirst-quenching cider. Strawberry and zesty lime offer a medium sweetness and tart finish when matched with a savoury strawberry salad. 

Tart Rhubarb Cider - Sharp yet refreshing

Perfect for spring, this distinctive cider will hit the spot with rhubarb lovers. It’s fun, it’s elegant and it’s particularly delightful when paired with a creamy carbonara.

mountbrewingco.com

Sister act

Good things come in threes – and Nectar, the third hospitality venue from sisters Jess Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty, certainly brings charm and class to Tauranga’s social scene.

Words Monique Balvert-O’Connor / Photos Erin Cave + supplied

When Jessica (Jess) Mackenzie and Shelby Rafferty say Tauranga’s new hospitality offering named Nectar delivers something excitingly different for the city, best believe them.

Not only are the two sisters the owners/creators of Nectar, they also know their patch. Located at 97 The Strand, Nectar is but a hop, skip, and jump from The Crown and Badger and Volare – both owned by this young duo. Jess (30) and her parents bought Crown and Badger five years ago, and about a year ago, Shelby (26) returned from her nursing job – and lengthy pandemic lockdowns – in Melbourne to secure an ownership interest in all three places. Jessica has assured her there will be time for a breather on the buying front now that property number three has been purchased! After all, the sisters are “super excited” about Nectar and are loving watching an appreciative public become acquainted with this new offering on the block.

It's hard, they say, to define Nectar’s “excitingly different” vibe within a mere sentence. So, they offer a few…

“It’s a premium venue without the pretentiousness. It’s a place to hang out and it incorporates some Melbournian kind of fun.

“It’s an all-day eatery (a day and night place), a place to relax with special occasion food in an inviting atmosphere. 

“Think big-city vibes, not standard café food. It’s not a café and not a wine bar. The food’s delicious and flavour-wise diners can expect to be pushed and challenged. There are lots of sharing plates to suit Nectar’s social theme.

“There are couches by the fire, high leaners, mid-height leaners, tables, and booths. There are power plugs and USB chargers everywhere as Nectar is wired for connectivity. It really is a hangout.

“It offers a sense of elegance. It’s also relaxing and classy, approachable and fun. It’s a balance between lots of wonderful things – and a place where people want to be.” 

It is also an undeniably beautiful place, in terms of both locality and décor. Jess has been making eyes at the building (long-time home to Japanese restaurant Tikara) for the last four years. 

“I have stared out at it from the Crown and Badger, thinking, ‘I need that big site with its full sun.’ When I knew it was coming up, I knew we had to get in quick. It’s so beautiful, and has water views too,” she enthuses. The corner site can sit 48 inside comfortably, but 150 all up when the pavement area is included.  

Sitting inside is inarguably a delight, thanks to interiors with wow. 

“There’s greenery galore – it’s a bit of a jungle,” Shelby laughs, adding that there’s a lot going on, but it works so well. Décor delights include glossy green tiles, oak features including a wall in a stunning herringbone pattern, hand-blown glass light fittings of varying shapes, gorgeous upholstery, rimu and tawa floorboards, and walls of green (painted by Shelby and Jess). There’s also rainforest-themed wallpaper and a dramatic, 2.5 metre-tall mural featuring a woman at one with plants. It’s “unique and empowering and perfect.”

The seating booths and oak features were created by Christchurch company Harrows, and Auckland’s Sophie Burns of Burning Red Interior Design masterminded the interior design. Other than that, the focus was very much on local creatives, from both the big details to the small. The entire fit out was tackled by Mt Maunganui-based Ramma Construction, the dramatic mural is the work of local artist Millie Newitt, and the water jugs are from the pottery wheels of Waihi’s Laughing Pottery. As for the logistical side of things, Jess, who has a management degree and extensive international hospitality experience, did much of the project management too, working alongside the Ramma Construction team. 

Being hands-on and full-on is how Jess and Shelby rock. But they have, of course, called on key people as part of Nectar’s ongoing team. People like Martin Allan, who designed the menu and is executive chef (he’s ensured there’s lots of plant-based food, and meat and fish can certainly be found on the menu). And people like bar manager Katie Short, who has created cocktails especially for Nectar. 

“She does a bloody good Bloody Mary and a magnificent matcha cocktail called You’ve Met Your Matcha,” Shelby attests. Nectar also boasts an extensive and very good wine list and great coffee, too.

Also an integral part of the team is Jess and Shelby’s mother, who still does the books but admits it’s quite tricky these days with so many moving parts. Their “very grounded” dad remains an encouraging mentor, who keeps them moving forward. The couple (who raised their children in Gisborne) have retired to Russell, happily leaving their daughters to thrive at the coalface. And thriving they are.

Says Jess, “It’s been a long journey and a big logistical exercise. We signed the lease about 18 months ago, but have been dreaming it up for a long time.  

“We are super excited about this, and super excited for Tauranga, too.”

@nectar.eatery

Creating and innovating

Hospitality really is at the heart of this restaurant.

Words Nicky Adams Photos supplied

Bethlehem’s Somerset Cottage has something of a multi-faceted footing in the food world. In addition to offering an unforgettable dining experience, it runs cook schools and provides the option of accommodation in an architecturally designed adjoining studio. It is unique not just because of its ‘dine, learn, stay’ ethos, but also because, under owner/operator husband and wife team Anne and Rick, Somerset Cottage has been creating cherished food memories for over 36 years, which in hospitality is monumental. 

Anne and Rick are respectively front of house and chef, and a mutual respect of the importance of each other’s roles goes a long way in their recipe for success. Anne has a unique gift in that she combines an efficient professional manner with friendliness and open humour. Rick is reserved, with modesty masking his mastery and expertise. He is miles away from the stereotype of bullish, egotistical chefs – in fact the thought of him raising his voice, throwing a tanty or melting down over a split sauce is frankly laughable. 

This calm, understated vibe is what defines Somerset Cottage, and the fact that Anne and Rick actively shy away from the limelight is in some way what has allowed them to seamlessly evolve from the small BYO restaurant that started in July 1986, to offering the symbiotic foodie experience that they excel in today. 

With a keen eye on the advances in dining expectations, they understand the need to move with the times. As Anne points out; “We’ve evolved on a food front, but also on a wine front – the drinks are no longer just about wine, increasingly it’s about cocktails and non-alcoholic options. Food has progressed immensely: people’s dietary requirements have necessitated that. We’ve embraced a vegan menu – as a long-established restaurant you have to offer the dishes that you are strongly associated with, but at the same time if regular customers don’t see change, some of them critique that - hence our weekly menu that accommodates the seasons.” Ironically, a regular diner I spoke to tells me, she often feigns delight at the array – then circles back to the tried-and-tested favourite dish, Sauteed Squid, every time.

While the food is exquisite – so much so that my visiting best friend smuggled vacuum-packed items back to Melbourne with her – the cook schools are at once informative, interactive, engaging, and entertaining. Held with Rick demonstrating and Anne explaining, the intimate vibe and the wealth of knowledge means that even the most timid home cook comes away with tips and the know-how to recreate restaurant-quality dishes. After the cooking demonstration the group together enjoy a long lunch and paired wine: the bonhomie and jokes flow as freely as the wine, and Anne remarks with obvious pleasure that “it just works.”

With the cook schools attracting participants far and wide, Anne and Rick made the decision to build a loft-style studio next door. According to Anne, “We had a vision – a small, intimate space that’s all about the bush - a space to decompress.” Whether just for a ‘staycation’ or to visit the restaurant or cook school, it’s a stunning stand-alone experience.

With a stubborn determination to remain under the radar, Somerset Cottage is a beguiling mix. It offers world-class food yet prizes the relationships with its customers above any accolade. While moving with the times – you’ll find Anne gleefully telling tales of sourcing the latest New Zealand distilleries – some things haven’t changed for 30 years; you will no more find yourself charged for your side dish than be allocated a restricted dining time slot. You are here for the experience – and the team will do its best to ensure it’s an unforgettable one.

Somersetcottage.co.nz

Plenty of flavour

Incredible foodie offerings proves there’s so much more to the Bay than good surf and sunshine.

Words Sue Hoffart / images supplied

When Flavours of Plenty Festival director Rae Baker moved to the Western Bay of Plenty in March last year, it was a homecoming of sorts.

Although she was largely raised in Scotland and has been living in Queenstown for four years, her Kiwi father attended Tauranga Boys College. She has spent copious childhood summers at Waihī Beach and still has a network of extended whanau and old family friends in the region. Pulling together the festival programme has fast-tracked the newcomer’s food knowledge.

“This festival celebrates a place I’ve loved my whole life,” Rae says. “When we were living in Edinburgh my dad would always say kumara is kumara and jandals are jandals. 

“But I’m still learning more about the region. There have been plenty of revelations, like the fact we’ve got more truffle farms in the bay than in any other region in New Zealand. I knew about the kiwifruit and avocados but I didn’t know about the chocolate and blueberries, or the macadamias.”

The inaugural Flavours of Plenty Festival, which runs from April 7-10, aims to celebrate the coastal Bay of Plenty’s world-class culinary offerings. This year’s festival will showcase horticultural heroes through workshops and demonstrations, degustations and pop-ups, restaurant nights and themed in-house menus, cultural and māra kai (food garden) events.

“Obviously, this region has always been famous for its landscapes and beautiful beaches but we have a really rich food story to talk about and I think it’s about time we did.”

Rae says the Flavours of Plenty steering group, formed by Tourism Bay of Plenty, has uncovered hundreds of food-related producers between Waihī Beach and Ōhope.

The group has also established that the region hosts more than 600 cafes, restaurants and other eateries. In Tauranga city alone, the food and beverage sector generates more than $150 million and employs about 4400 people.

She says natural advantages, such as excellent soil and a sunny climate, are increasingly teamed with skilled growers, scientists, chefs, manufacturers and educators to produce premium products.

“Restaurants are really starting to showcase what’s great and locally grown. Our Toi Ohomai campus has an amazing culinary department and we’re seeing real efforts to connect people to the produce we grow here.

“Personally, we’ve bought a place in Papamoa and I have a vege garden now and, oh my gosh, the tomatoes. My South Island friends can’t believe I don’t need a greenhouse. And, coming from Scotland, there’s no way we have the opportunity to grow avocados and feijoas, lemons, passionfruit, clementines.

“I’m loving having access to farmers markets here, with all those people making kombucha or vanilla or sourdough. And I’ve loved taking friends to Dinner In The Domain at the pony club in Papamoa. I’m blown away and it’s time we really started singing from the rooftops about it.”

Markets and the domain dinner are included in the festival offerings, alongside events such as craft brewery tours or a multi-course modern hāngī or a family-friendly cheese rolling contest run by Mount Eliza cheesemakers.

Mount Sourdough Co’s mother-son duo Margaret and Sam Langlands are also promising foodies a new experience. The sourdough starter, which requires regular feeding with a flour and water mix, has been around for at least 15 years thanks to Margaret’s dedication and skill. Both she and her son has been known to take the precious starter along on their respective holidays, in order to keep it alive.

Sam learned baking skills from his former primary school teacher mum and became serious about dough only after working in corporate finance. He was planning to head overseas – flights were booked, visa confirmed – when their small, homegrown bread business grew unexpectedly quickly. 

Four years ago, the engineering graduate set up a Facebook page to sell bread baked in the family kitchen at Mount Maunganui. When they outgrew that space, the pair expanded into the garage and developed a range that now includes a spiced fruit version, one with olive and rosemary and another studded with flax and sunflower seeds. These days, Mount Sourdough produces 500 loaves a day from a dedicated bakery and has plans to expand both the team and the small commercial kitchen. While Sam’s airline tickets and visa have long since expired, Flavours of Plenty ticketholders will have a chance to hear the Langlands’ story and discover the history, health benefits and science of sourdough. Guests will also get their hands on some dough, learn how to look after and bake the perfect loaf and take home a sourdough starter pack of their own.

As part of the festival, at least 16 eateries will utilise a matching ‘produce box’ to showcase what’s grown and made along the coast. Judges will pick winners but diners are also encouraged to taste the specially-designed cocktails or menu items and vote for a people’s choice award. 

Fife Lane restaurant’s Flavours of Plenty lunch was the first event to sell out, while Sugo restaurant has designed a plant-based ‘king’s feast’ luncheon and Elizabeth Café is hosting a dinner created by Pepper & Me food business owner Cherie Metcalfe. 

At Paengaroa, The Mediterranean Escape will see ticketholders visit a truffiere and an olive oil producer before heading to the Trading Post restaurant in Paengaroa for a degustation dinner. 

In Whakatanē, The Good Fusion fashion and food event teams local boutiques and designers with live music and locally-made wine or kombucha as well as grazing platters that feature locally-made or grown products. Proceeds will support a charity that helps families facing childhood cancer. Whakatanē will also welcome diners to a long lunch at the award-winning Mata Brewery, led by brewer Tammy Viitakangas.

“This festival ticks all the boxes,” Rae says. “It’s great for the community, great for people who visit the region, for families. I see the event growing and growing, expanding every year.” 

Flavoursofplentyfestival.com

Worldwide Wahine

In the eight years since sisters Karena and Kasey Bird wowed the Masterchef kitchen with their home-grown culinary flair, they’ve collected more awards and travelled around the globe showcasing their kai. Now Kasey has an exciting new food critic on board to taste test all their fresh ideas.

words Sue Hoffart / image Graeme Murray
Baby Koaretaia Biel is destined to eat exceptionally widely and well, given the legendary cooking prowess of his mother and aunt.

The Maketu boy was 11 weeks old when mum Kasey Bird and her older sister Karena flew to Dubai on an official government cooking mission. The television stars and award-winning cookbook publishers travelled to United Arab Emirates in January, to help showcase New Zealand’s culinary culture. During their stay, the pair undertook a cooking challenge, led a kitchen demonstration event, designed a hangi-inspired beef dish and created a Matariki-themed multi-course feast for the World Expo.

But, even while preparing a degustation dinner for international dignitaries, Kasey regularly stepped out of the kitchen with a breast pump to keep her milk supply going in readiness for their return. She did the same thing on flights, in restaurants and while holed up in a quarantine hotel. The jet-setting mum left litres of milk with her baby’s grandparents and trainee teacher father Patuara Biel, who sent daily updates and videos of their son. Meanwhile, Karena has been researching baby food traditions in other cultures, to plan Koaretaia’s first solid meals. An Indian-inspired dahl perhaps? Or a turmeric-laced puree using vegetables grown in his grandparents’ garden. They also like the Chinese tradition of giving teething babies dried fish to gnaw on, though of course theirs would come from Bay of Plenty waters.

The sisters (Te Arawa, Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Manawa) are determined this baby will be raised by  whānau, with his feet in Maketu sand and his taste buds roaming the world. It’s a recipe that has certainly worked for them.

Growing up in the coastal village, east of Tauranga, the pair would dash across the road after school to swim or gather shellfish. Their earliest memories revolve around digging for pipi in the estuary, then cooking the molluscs on an old cake rack over an open fire on the sand. 

“It felt so safe, really idyllic,” Kasey says of their Maketu childhood. “It was normal to let kids go to the beach by themselves. Mum could see us from home and our Aunty would whistle and all the kids knew it was time to come home.”

“Every Sunday, we would have this big pot luck dinner with all the family and friends, everyone bringing a different dish. And we’re the type of kids, if we saw something we didn’t recognise, that’s what we wanted to try.”

Food dominates their memories. Kasey has always been drawn to the kitchen, while her sister was the eager eater in the family. It was Kasey who caught and smoked her own fish and pestered aunts and grandmothers for lessons and recipes or begged for cookbook gifts each Christmas. Although her sibling had little interest in cooking, she was equally excited by a good meal. Especially if it involved new flavours.

Karena recalls marvelling at the magical ingredients – capers, olives, sundried tomatoes – in a salad her aunt brought to the house. Her sister was certain she had found “the nicest thing on earth” after tasting crème brulée for the first time.

Kasey was 10 when the girls’ parents Kerry and Atarangi Bird shepherded the family onto a plane and headed overseas, intent on expanding their daughters’ horizons.

“They always wanted us to know where we’re from and be grounded,” Karena says. “And they also wanted us to see the world was a big place, to see a world full of possibilities.” 

Decades after ticking off Los Angeles and New York, London, Paris and Sweden, it is the culinary memories that linger. They still talk about discovering fresh pretzels and just-made lemonade, sushi and Mexican food for the first time. Or the French bistro where they happily ate lentils with sausages and “really stinky cheese”.

As teenagers, the sisters would scour ‘top 50’ restaurant lists and pool their pocket money before driving to Auckland to dine out. 

“When we were in high school, food was all we talked about. While our friends bought concert tickets and clothes and CDs, we would save up money to go and eat in restaurants. We’d take pictures, try new things, then come back to Maketu and try to replicate it.”

Their horrified parents  – this dining out compulsion was wasteful according to chartered accountant dad and university lecturer mum – insisted the duo pursue proper careers. Both made choices that now confound them. 

Kasey initially studied fashion in Melbourne until homesickness drew her home, where she enrolled in an accountancy degree and found local work auditing health contracts. Her sibling headed to Wellington to begin Bachelor of Commerce studies. 

Neither was particularly interested in balance sheets or finance and neither was destined to complete her degree.

Instead, Kārena decided to attend the cordon bleu cook school in Sydney, while obsessively watching competitive cooking television programme Masterchef New Zealand.

“My flatmates thought I was crazy. I’d never cooked one meal in the flat and on leaving night, they gave me a Masterchef cookbook and wrote ‘can’t wait till you’re on the cover one day’. They were thinking it was a big joke. I still have that book.”
Karena only ventured into the kitchen once she was home again, intent on saving and practicing for her pending culinary training. With no restaurants nearby and no escaping the family cooking schedule, she threw herself into trialling techniques and trying to outdo her sister when it was her night to cook.

“I was making up for lost time,” she says. “I cooked heaps. I’d watch food shows then recreate it. I learnt a lot.”

Without realising it, the sisters were also amassing a portfolio of images, menus and experiences that would impress television producers looking for talent to feature on the show. A week after submitting their application, the duo had an interview and launched into auditions. 

The rest is history. In 2014, the Te Puke High School graduates – Karena is a former head girl – attained national celebrity by winning the reality show Masterchef New Zealand. Their own travel cooking series followed; Karena and Kasey’s Kitchen Diplomacy saw the pair film 20 episodes in 20 countries over a two year period, with a host of impressive international cooking engagements on the side. Trips to Asia and Europe and South America were interspersed with five separate stints in China, work for wine and food companies and starring roles in a food safety programme for the Ministry of Primary Industries. They have also run a diabetes education programme for kuia and kaumatua in a community hall in Murupara. And they have self-published two sell-out cookbooks, the first of which collected an international award. Their third book is expected to hit shelves later this year and will be written entirely in Te Reo, with pages of text and glossy photographs laid out in their parents’ house. Kasey and her husband live across the road and Karena is a one-minute walk away. Master Koaretaia is passed between all three homes and adored by everyone, including youngest Bird sibling Michaela. Auntie Michaela is an actress living in Auckland but spends plenty of weekends back home, doting on her nephew.

Maketu is the well-travelled sisters’ turangawaewae, the place they come home to for a dose of reality and unconditional love. Their mum will ask whether they have done their laundry and insist they place newspaper on the floor while cooking, to mop up any mess. No-one cares that Karena has been dining in an exclusive restaurant overlooking 15,000 fish inside the world’s largest aquarium. Or that she had to pick gold leaf out of her teeth. Back home, she is expected to rinse her dinner plates and contribute to family life.

“I think it’s what keeps everything in perspective,” Kasey says. “Just being part of the fabric of whanau and community, everyone is just the same. 

“I like to think we have the best of both worlds, that idea that a modern woman can have your baby and go to Dubai. And eat truffle and go to the marae and be in the kitchen with the aunties. The next generation can have all of that. You can still be worldly and still be really grounded.”

It was their grandfather who arrived in nearby Te Puke, from Rotorua, to open a branch of the family’s jeans manufacturing company before moving to Maketu. But the Birds have had holiday homes in the beach community for six generations;  Kasey lives in a house her paternal great great grandparents once inhabited. In recent years, they learned a Scottish female forebearer opened Te Puke’s first bakery in the 1800s.

“We loved growing up in Maketu. It’s still unspoilt, it’s remained that real quintessential beach town. It’s such a safe haven for us.

“Travel definitely gave us the real deep appreciation of where we come from and of our family.”

It also helped shape their determination to learn te reo. Although they spoke the language as young girls and grew up around it – their mother is a Maori language lecturer – their enthusiasm waned. That interest was reignited through learning about other nations’ culture, language and history and realising they knew too little of their own. 

“Being Maori is really important to us but we almost started to feel like imposters,” Kasey says.” People were so proud of us but we didn’t have the language.”

It was Kārena who pushed for them both to place their international schedule on hold and spend a year at Waikato University’s Tauranga campus, learning te reo full time. They did still squeeze in work trips to Fiji, China and Taiwan before emerging as fluent speakers, at the end of 2019.

The timing has been remarkably fortuitous. As Covid slammed international borders shut, their new skill led to new work. Like a string of Matariki-related engagements or the television miniseries that saw them teach a master class in cooking, solely in te reo. Or the  nine-course fine dining event that tells the Maori creation story through food.

“I think the best thing about learning it, though, is the feeling we have, feeling complete. And now, having a baby, it makes it all worthwhile. He’s going to have both languages.”

This year will bring another round of speaking engagements and celebrity cheffing roles, including high guest spots in the inaugural Flavours of Plenty festival. Their Hangi With Karena and Kasey event promises “a deeply cultural feast” that blends traditional cooking techniques with modern twists, whilst celebrating the Bay’s plentiful plethora of produce.

No doubt there will be more international travel in future, too.

“Always, all the time, we are looking at each other and saying ‘how good is our life?’,” Karena says of their last eight adventurous years. 

“We never take it for granted,” her younger sister chimes in. “We always pinch ourselves.”

Division of labour

Much of the sisters’ work and home life is deeply enmeshed. They even refer to Koaretaia as “our baby” and Karena attended a few antenatal classes when the father-to-be couldn’t make it.

But they do take account of each other’s strengths when it comes to sharing the load.

Kasey is the organised one, the logistics and planning expert. She is happiest behind the scenes and her accounting background has come in handy after all; she looks after the finances. 

Karena is the outgoing people person. She’s more bossy, generally takes the lead in the kitchen when it comes to plating food and tends to do the talking in public, though Kasey has plenty to say one on one. 

Karena likes to claim she brings the x-factor to the partnership. “And the humility,” she jokingly adds, as the sisters break into laughter. 

“Being sisters, we just know what our roles are without even talking about it. We have this innate understanding.”

Would they ever consider splitting up to pursue separate careers? Especially now there is a baby in the mix?

“We’re not for or against the idea,” Kasey says. “If something came up for Karena that was really awesome, we’d just be happy for each other. We want what’s best for each other.”