Adventure awaits

Nicky Adams explores the timeless appeal of Disneyland and discovers its magic isn’t only reserved for the kids.

It’s hard to put your finger on just what makes theme parks so magical, when most of us are way past our Disney delight days.

‘We’re doing it for the kids,’ mutter the adults as they race behind the super-sized Mickey Mouse, not a child in sight. The fact is it doesn’t matter what age you are, there is something wonderful about being transported into another world, where everything is bright, fun, and essentially make believe. To quote Walt Disney, ‘You’re never too old to be young.’

I think the sheer fantasy is what makes me love it so much – the larger-than-life characters, the ‘cast members’ (staff) dressed up as a 1950s Barbershop Quartet belting out random a capella on Main Street, the sight of a Mark Twain-style steamboat making its way down the Mississippi. The wild imagination of it all is nothing short of joyous.

Ironically, I hate roller coasters, but there’s a million and one other rides to try, from flying through Neverland on the low-level Peter Pan’s Flight to the exhilaration of gunning down enemy craft as you take the helm on the Star Wars’ Millennium Falcon Smugglers Run.

Disneyland Anaheim opened in 1955 and is made up of Disneyland and the latterly added California Adventure (which opened in 2001); between the two parks they cover every single age and stage.

Both parks are divided into ‘lands’ and tactically feature rides and references to the original Disney days but have kept up to date with all the latest stories and characters, so no genre is left untouched. There’s the old-worldly fairground feel of the ferris wheel in California Adventure (where you can choose between a carriage that stays static or one that swings), or there’s the high-tech Rise of the Resistance, the latest simulation Star Wars ride in Disneyland. In between you have the fan favourites of the indoor rollercoaster Space Mountain, river rapid ride Grizzly River Run and of course the dark speed of the Radiator Springs Racers.

The fantasy world that you’re about to step into starts before you enter the parks themselves. Downtown Disney District serves as the soft launch; connecting the two parks and the three hotels, it’s free to get into (although you do need to go through security) and is a lively and beautifully landscaped, easy-to-navigate outdoor shopping and dining area that hums with entertainment. It’s also home to a dangerously delicious Wetzel Pretzel café – try at your peril. This is the area from where you enter one park or the other – the Park Hopper ticket will gain entrance to both on the same day. Exploring both parks will likely take you a good couple of days, although with opening hours going between 8am and 10pm it’s possible – if exhausting – to simply keep going, to get the most out of your ticket entrance. However, if you do, brace yourself to cover an awful lot of ground during your day.

Visiting in October, the weather was cool in the morning and evening, but by 10am had warmed up to high 20s, which may sound sweltering, but low UV saved burning. Saying that, it wasn’t a heat you wanted to stand around in for too long, so a queue- jumping Fast Pass was invested in at an extra cost.

While this certainly saves plenty of time in the queues (you can book an advance time slot) it’s by no means a perfect system. We found it incredibly frustrating that you could only hold one slot, and when the time shown came up it often gave you a later time slot than shown on the Disney app. The waiting, I’m afraid, is unavoidable. On the plus side, the queues are incredibly civilised and, other than slowing you down, could just be accepted as part of the experience. The cost is another aspect to be considered. A weak NZ to US exchange rate, along with post-Covid price rises, doesn’t go unnoticed when on top of the ticket price comes a day of theme park treats. Saying that, while there are plenty of in-park refreshment stops, packing your own water bottles and snacks is worthwhile.

As I mentioned – as someone that is terrified of rollercoasters, you might think that it would be hard to find things to do. Oh contraire! Weirdly, although I’m rollercoaster averse, I found I was born for the simulated rides, which (I was quietly smug about) other far gutsier family members struggled with.

My pick would without question be Soarin’ Around the World. If I could have done it all day long, I would have. Strapped into a simulator you whizz above the African plains, Eiffel Tower – even tropical islands – all the time being infused with the scent to match.

Sounds weird I know, but it was incredible. Another goody was the Pirates of the Caribbean – I lost count of how many times we all did this. A couple of wee water drops was as scary as it got, but an underground journey through the land of the pirates was more fun that you can imagine with something different to see every time. The detail was so mesmerising it came as no surprise to learn that it was the ride that inspired the movie. The adrenalin junkies did Big Thunder Mountain Railroad on repeat, loving the thrill of the ride, but everyone agreed you needed nerves of steel for the Guardians of the Galaxy.

Formally called Hollywood Tower of Terror, involving stomach-churning drops. Nothing would possess me to do this.

All the while you wander – or race depending on your timeframe – through the parks, there will be a million other things going on around you. Bands marching followed by carriages carrying Cruella de Vil and her henchmen, Disney Princesses amid eager young children waiting for a hug, Storm Troopers arresting bystanders. And then there’s the parades – crowds stand aside while highly decorated dancers dance and singers sing. The excitement stretches well into the night, with light shows and weekend firework extravaganzas. Just when you think you’re all out of energy, you might find that last bit in the tank for another round of rides.

Without doubt the easiest way to maximise your time is to stay at one of the three Disneyland Resort hotels – the newly vamped up Pixar Place, Grand Californian, or original Disneyland Resort. A stay here will ensure you get early access to the parks before any other guests arrive and gives you the ability to bob back and forth to regroup throughout the day. It also extends the magic as the hotels are home to more characters, round reception corners and you might bump into Chip and Dale – peep above your poolside cocktail and you may spy Goofy on his way to wow the diners at the Goofy’s kitchen restaurant. In the worlds of Walt Disney: “Here you leave today and enter the world of yesterday, tomorrow and fantasy.”