Cambodia calling
Liz French travelled to Cambodia and experienced firsthand the work of the Tauranga-based Cambodia Charitable Trust, meeting her sponsored child and learning about the brutal history of this beautiful country.
Liz French travelled to Cambodia and experienced firsthand the work of the
Tauranga-based Cambodia Charitable Trust, meeting her sponsored child and learning about the brutal history of this beautiful country.
Words Liz French
It’s an emotional moment when a 16-year-old high school student weeps with gratitude for the difference you are making in her life. Sear Sun Nary attends Ang Rokha Secondary School in the Takeo province south of Phnom Penh. My $60 per month, less than I spend on lattes, not only helps her but takes the pressure off her family, who live in a home smaller than my lounge, without running water or electricity. Dad farms their couple of cows, two pigs and a few chickens. Mum is a vendor, a precarious job at best.
Our Cambodian experience began in Phnom Penh. We took a tuk-tuk from the airport to our city hotel, the first of many rides in these rickshaws with open sides pulled by a motorbike, or with the engine incorporated in the more sophisticated ones. We soon discovered that if your group has more than one tuk-tuk, it becomes a race. We shot through frenetic streets full of scooters and a surprising number of late-model cars, all vying for road space in the chaos.
It’s a culture shock to arrive in a seething city, winterised bodies hitting mid-30s temperatures. The White Mansion, a former American Embassy residence, provided just the oasis of respite we needed, with large air-conditioned rooms, a cool pool and superb breakfasts, all for around NZ$100 a night. Mid-range accommodation is amazingly reasonable in Cambodia.
The next morning, we hit the markets. The Toul Tompoung, or Russian Market, harks to its popularity with Russian expats in the 1980s. It’s a labyrinth of stalls and sensory sensations where freshly skinned poultry hangs near stands of cheap clothing, trinkets, machinery components and cosmetics. The Phsar Thum Thmei (meaning New Grand Market), better known as Central Market, was completed in 1937, and fans out from a high art deco dome. More of the same in a slightly more salubrious and orderly setting.
The rarity of old people in Cambodia reflects the way Pol Pot virtually wiped out a generation. You cannot visit Phnom Penh without acknowledging this harrowing history. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (referred to by Khmer Rouge as S21) is a former school where, between 1975 and 1979, thousands endured torture and the exacting of false confessions before death. Rooms that held hundreds are now sparse spaces with subtle suggestions of the horror. Boards display photos of victims, one a commemoration of Kerry Hamill from Whakatane, who was plucked from his yacht off the coast and eventually executed. I felt I held my breath the whole time I was there.
It was a privilege to visit schools with Denise Arnold, founder/director of the Cambodia Charitable Trust. An immeasurable difference has been made by asking what was needed and delivering just that, by improving teacher training, and supplying basic needs like libraries and toilets. Her (and by default our) welcome reminded me of the way Sir Edmund Hillary was revered for his work with the Sherpas.
I was particularly taken with the children, who seemed equally fascinated by a little white lady. I was mobbed by primary kids on break and trailed by preschoolers, all in pristine uniforms, when visiting one of their homes reinforced their subsistence existence. Travelling with someone who has been there many times meant interesting off-the-beaten-track places, like the homestay where we were hosted overnight and saw their thriving cotton weaving cottage industry.
I was distressed by the proliferation of single-use plastic. But what can you do when the water is not fit to drink, when life in a third-world country is tough enough without worrying about the state of the planet? We even cleaned our teeth with bottled water. Plastic is strewn along the roads, and when we went to the top of a hill to see some ancient ruins and rural views, we climbed hundreds of steps littered with debris. It seemed that to be clear of rubble you had to be a regal or religious site. The Royal Palace grounds in Phnom Penh were a pristine vision; temples were tidy.
Our travels took us to Kampot, an attractive town with a sprinkling of French colonial architecture where an English woman owned our hotel, a cleverly converted cinema, and a Dutch expat ran our favourite riverfront restaurant; then to Sihanoukville on the coast where it was nicer to see the sea than the effects on the skyline of huge Chinese investment. It was a relief to hop on a plane to Siem Reap.
For many tourists, Cambodia is Siem Reap. They pour into the modern airport, take wide tree-lined streets into the bustling centre, stay in one of hundreds of hotels (ours was jaded but had a resort-quality pool), and eat cheaply in restaurants galore, many on Pub Street. Cocktails for a couple of dollars? Another one, please! Though it was quiet on the tourist front, we saw more Europeans here than the entire trip to date.
Angkor Wat is the drawcard. Angkor Wat means City of Temples and is said to be the largest religious monument in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 160 hectares was built in the 12th Century, the work, our guide told us, of 6,000 men and 4,000 elephants. Endless wall etchings depict bygone battles, and restoration work is never ending. There are several areas, so it pays to have a local guide and a tuk-tuk. The clean, green jungle setting is a balm to the soul.
I left my soul with the children of Cambodia, with their joy in education and the love and appreciation they showed for these visitors from a far land bringing them a brighter future. Nary, who I sponsor, wants to go to university and have a career. I will support her all the way.
To sponsor a child through the Cambodia Charitable Trust, visit cctnz.org.nz
Let it snow
Flying south for the winter, UNO editor Hayley Barnett attempts to turn her family into thrill-seeking adventure enthusiasts, with mixed results
Flying south for the winter, UNO editor Hayley Barnett attempts to turn her family into thrill-seeking adventure enthusiasts, with mixed results.
Words Hayley Barnett
As far as winter getaways go, you don’t get much better than Queenstown. It’s a hub for skiers, thrill seekers, partiers and foodies, and, although partying was off the agenda this time, it’s the perfect destination for a family’s first ski holiday.
Getting my kids on skis has long been a dream of mine, but with COVID-19 restrictions and the recent debacle that kept our local ski fields closed, my grand plans have never come to fruition. Until now.
This year was the year, I decided. It’d be the year the kids would finally fall in love with snow sports and we’d become one of those families who hit the slopes every winter, toasting marshmallows in front of the fire at the end of a long, enjoyable day skilfully flying down the mountain at top speed. Après ski, here we come.
If you have kids, you can probably guess it didn’t all go completely to plan. Five-year-olds don’t always comply in an environment where everyone is wearing ski masks and wielding large planks around. But I can officially say I have skiers now, and I can also recommend some amazing activities to do in the area on those days you don’t quite make it to the slopes.
OAKS QUEENSTOWN SHORES RESORT
Jumping on the Booking.com app, I came across Oaks Queenstown Shores Resort, serviced apartments on the outskirts of Queenstown with incredible views of Lake Wakatipu. A two-bedroom apartment was
the perfect size for the four of us. With an electric fireplace, fully self-contained kitchen and two bathrooms, it has everything you need when sharing with kids and a snorer. The apartment was huge and meant we didn’t have to venture out to get breakfast. We even stayed at home for dinner one night because it was too cosy to leave. There’s a gym for those who don’t get all their energy out on the mountain, and an inviting reception area with a fireplace, dining room and a bar, overlooking the lake.
CARDRONA SKI RESORT
With friends staying in Wanaka, we decided Cardrona would be a good place to meet up for a couple of days skiing. It was recommended I book lessons for the kids well in advance – and tickets, too, as they were limiting the number of people on the ski fields this year. The winding hour-long drive did make me question our decision not to just book at Coronet Peak or The Remarkables, the much closer options, but it ended up being the best decision of the trip. The smoother, flatter slopes proved to be much less intimidating to my three learner family members (who were expecting the steeper runs of neighbouring mountains), and Cardrona had the most centimetres of snow that week. Score!
Having booked our vacation a week before the school holidays, it meant there were hardly any chairlift lines to wait in. I managed to get a heap of runs in that first day, despite the visibility being somewhat dismal.
Luckily, for our second day at Cardrona, the weather had improved. The sun was peaking out and we’d had a large dump of snow overnight, replacing slush with powder. Having learned from the previous day, I dropped the kids off at their lessons, pockets stuffed with lollies (top tip to convince small – and big – kids to do anything) and took off up the mountain again.
By the end of day two, Poppy was flying down from the top, as I’d hoped, and Oscar had learned to avoid crashing into anyone who ventured into his eyeline. Jumping on the bus back down to our rental car, we were soon on our way to the Cardrona Hotel for some well-deserved pub grub and drinks.
TRANSPORT
If you want to get the most out of your Queenstown family holiday, a reliable vehicle is a non-negotiable. Enabling travellers to seamlessly plan their travel, Booking.com offers much more than just accommodation and is a one-stop solution offering a wide range of travel services such as car hire without ever having to leave the platform or app. We easily secured a mid-sized Toyota Corolla via the app. I added booster seats for the kids and chains for the wheels. Pick up was easy. We caught a ride with the Snap Rentals van from the airport and 15 minutes later we were in our car and heading off to our accommodation.
CARDRONA HOTEL RESTAURANT & BAR
A five-minute drive from the turn-off up to Cardrona Ski Resort is one of New Zealand’s oldest hotels and one of only two remaining buildings from the Cardrona Valley gold rush era. These days, it’s most well known for its après ski pub food and drinks and its warm and cosy atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to take the kids, with plenty of room to run around outside, featuring a playground and a giant outdoor fireplace. There are bags of marshmallows, which we purchased a few of, after discovering Oscar had devoured the first bag before we even made it over to the fireplace. We can highly recommend the loaded wedges and the seafood chowder, both washed down with some local gin from the Cardrona Distillery across the road.
PUZZLING WORLD, WANAKA
One of the highlights for all of us was Puzzling World. Yes, we had to travel for an hour from Queenstown, but boy, was it worth it. I had booked tickets through Booking.com when securing our accommodation
months ago, which forced us out of our cosy, warm beds on a non-ski day. By the time we got there we knew we’d made the right decision.
The family-run attraction started with a wooden maze in 1973 and evolved into a science museum that has become famous across the country – and internationally. Home to the world’s first multi-level “mega maze”, Puzzling World offers a challenging course that takes around an hour to complete (well, it did for us, anyway). Participants must reach all four towers located in four corners of the maze. The kids were the perfect age for it and no one noticed they’d been running around for an hour.
The Illusion Rooms inside the museum provided hours of entertainment. The slightly nauseating Tilting Room was a favourite for the kids, as was the Ames Room, where they suddenly outgrew us adults, becoming giants to our dwarfed bodies. Afterwards we headed out to the idyllic Lake Wanaka, just a five-minute drive from Puzzling World, to recover from all the excitement.
ARROWTOWN
On our way back home we decided to stop at the little historic village of Arrowtown for dinner. Proving to be just as pretty at nighttime as it is during the day, we took our time wandering up and down the town centre’s main drag, overwhelmed by the many dining choices on offer. We settled on Bendix Stables – a “watering hole and food emporium” built in 1873 as a stable to keep local politician Bendix Hallenstein’s horses. We had the top floor to ourselves where we devoured giant burgers and toasted marshmallows for s’mores.
KAWARAU RIVER JET BOAT TOUR
On our last day, we headed into Queenstown for one more adventure – the Kawarau River Jet Boat Tour. It popped up as a recommendation on Booking.com and was super easy to add as a last-minute addition
to our itinerary. There are two tours to choose from – a 20-minute joy ride around the lake or an hour-long tour up the river. We went for the hour, which was filled with thrills and not-too-many spills, thankfully. The kids loved the build-up of suspense when our driver raised his hand in warning each time he slammed on the brakes for a heart-stopping 360-degree spin. The scenery became more and more impressive the further down the river we spun. An exciting attraction for families with just
the right amount of thrill for the littlies.
To book your holiday to Queenstown, simply download the booking.com app and get planning!
Business meets bliss
A trip to Sydney gives the opportunity for some work-life balance.
A trip to Sydney gives the opportunity for some work-life balance.
Words Jenny Rudd
Why bother flying somewhere fun if you aren’t going to give yourself the time to enjoy it? This year I’ve been back and forth to Australia for work, and last time I went to Sydney, instead of cramming everything into a couple of days and whizzing back home, I extended the trip and turned it into a wee holiday for one. It was just the right blend of career and care.
A top-rated apartment in the CBD was found on booking.com, made all the more luxurious as they organised and paid for a taxi on arrival. I did nothing. A message popped up on my booking.com app as soon as I’d landed, telling me where to meet the driver. A great start to the week.
A CITY WALK
I’d been sitting in a plane for many hours, so fresh air and leg stretching were first on the list. An easy loop started at Hyde Park with giant fig trees and the Archibald Fountain, a tribute to the Franco-Australian relationship. You can walk straight over to the Botanical Gardens, and follow the water’s edge round to the money shot - the Sydney Opera House. The garden holds deep cultural significance as it’s situated on the traditional lands of the Cadigal people. You can learn about Aboriginal heritage with artwork, and interactive displays explain indigenous plant uses and the connection between Aboriginal communities and the land. Past the Opera House, I settled in for the French menu at Whalebridge. Warm evening light, a view of the bridge over the harbour and rippling water. I was ready for work the next day.
BONDI
It’s oh so easy to travel in Sydney. I just tapped my Visa card on and off trains, buses and ferries. Staying by Town Hall station made everywhere seem like a few minutes away. I had a meeting in Bondi, so we met at Blackwood Cafe. Bright pink tuna crudo eaten in the sunshine and talking to ambitious founders of a business bound for the States was followed by a walk round the iconic beach. I’d stuffed my bikini in my handbag so got happily smashed about in the waves before heading back to the CBD.
LIGHT UP
I’m not much of a party girl these days, but I do love to walk around cities at night. Each year Sydney’s buildings and skies light up with their Vivid Festival in May. Hundreds of drones take to the skies and videos of artworks cover landmark buildings. Follow the light walk from Circular Quay and grab snacks en route.
BARANGAROO
Everyone here likes to have early meetings, which has been perfect as I get the rest of the day to explore. The morning was spent with Startmate, one of Australia and New Zealand's best-known tech startup accelerators in the Stripe offices at the incredibly hip WeWork building. The whole area, Barangaroo, has been recently redeveloped. The land is named after an influential Aboriginal woman from the Eora Nation. Gleaming buildings line the water, it’s a pretty magnificent working environment. The development has turned an inaccessible industrial area into a waterfront for everyone to enjoy, and linked up some of the central Sydney points with the Wulugul (kingfish) Walk.
SHELLY BEACH
Take the ferry from Circular Quay to Manly Beach and walk the picturesque pathway cut into the cliffs round to Shelly Beach. A towel, snorkel, mask and a good book are all you’ll need to while away a good part of the day. There’s a lovely beachside restaurant called the Boat House which doesn’t take bookings. And a huge reef round the headland at the end of the beach, which is where your mask and snorkel comes in handy. If you’re hot on the walk back to Manly to catch the ferry, stop off at Cabbage Tree Bay and have a quick dip off the rocks.
INDOOR WATERFALL
Okay, I think this is my favourite thing in Sydney, and I found it by accident walking through Town Hall shopping centre to get to the train. An actual waterfall covering an entire wall in Eternity Café. I went there every day. It’s got a very kitsch vibe. I was a big fan of the smoothie bowls and salads.
Top tips for solo travel in Sydney
Use booking.com app for the best one-bedroom apartments in the CBD.
Eat outside peak restaurant hours to get the best seats in town.
Walk everywhere! You’re on your own schedule.
Escape to Mother Nature
With headlines echoing rising concerns around climate change, 44 percent of Kiwi travellers say that recent news about climate change has influenced them to make more sustainable travel choices. With Mother’s Day fast approaching, what better way to show your appreciation for the mother figure in your life by planning an escape to Mother Nature this Mother’s Day?
Woodside Bay Chalets
Booking.com’s Sustainable Travel report for 2023 shows that 66% of Kiwi travellers want travel companies to offer more sustainable travel, having launched its Travel Sustainable Badge recognising accommodations for their sustainability efforts . Thankfully, you don’t have to travel far to spend a night or two at a sustainable stay. Here are five Travel Sustainable certified properties that tick all the boxes for you and Mum this Mother’s Day.
The Fairways Luxury Accommodation, Kaikoura
The Fairways Luxury Accommodation, Kaikōura
The picturesque coastal town of Kaikōura is the perfect place for marine life encounters, coastal walks, and tucking into a plate of sustainably sourced seafood. Kaikōura is an ecological playground for marine mammal encounters – whales, fur seals and dolphins live permanently in the coastal waters. Whale watching trips leave the town several times a day and the local seal colony is always entertaining.
Situated next to a golf course for our travellers who love to putt, Fairways Luxury Accommodation can be found along Kaikoura’s spectacular coastline. With luscious landscapes overlooking the countryside and enough rooms for the whole family. Fairways Luxury Accommodation also has numerous walking and bike trails to further immerse yourself in the great outdoors.
Woodside Bay Chalets
Woodside Bay Chalets, Waiheke Island
Waiheke is a haven of beautiful vineyards, olive groves and beaches, beloved by all who step foot on the island. The island is the go-to destination for those wanting to escape the big city without having to travel too far as it is just a 40-minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland.
If you’re planning a weekend away in Waiheke, the Woodside Bay Chalet has a variety of wellness activities for all to participate in. Get your yoga mats out for some sun salutations or unwind with a well deserved hot stone massage. There are several packages on offer that are catered perfectly for indulgence and self-care in the intimate atmospheres where you can focus on your wellbeing in this divine Travel Sustainable find.
Heaven’s Rest B&B
Heaven’s Rest B&B, Pukekohe
Equestrian and farm to plate garden fresh vegetables are just some of Pukekohe’s highlights. This large country town is always buzzing with activity and is just under an hour’s drive from Auckland’s bustling city centre.
Escape the city noise and surround yourself with farm land and animals at Heaven’s Rest B&B. Catch the sunset, or the sunrise while you take in the picturesque landscapes and fresh outdoor air. With available hot tubs for use, step in and unwind while you wait for your BBQ to grill on their outdoor deck.
Fable Terrace Downs Resort by MGallery
Fable Terrace Downs Resort by MGallery
Set against the majestic backdrops of both alps and ocean, Canterbury has lush vineyards and wild coastlines along with sky-piercing mountains and pristine glacial lakes that is out of a movie scene.
Overlooking some of the most stunning golf courses and mountain peaks you can find in Canterbury, Fable Terrace Downs Resort has delicious first class dining experiences available inhouse for you to savour. Fable Terrace has both golf courses and tennis courts for you to spend a day in the sun. There are other nearby unique ventures for you to participate in including jet boating, clay bird shooting, quad biking and fishing.
Cascade Creek Retreat, Milton
Tucked away in the heart of the South Island, the historic town of Milton has a number of stunning heritage buildings that will take you back in time.
Cascade Creek Retreat is located 45 minutes away from Dunedin and is near a variety of calming bushwalks. This eco-friendly stay gets you feeling more down to Earth than you ever have before. Its romantic and private atmosphere helps couples enjoy their quality time on Mother’s Day. Take a dip in their outdoor tubs and open a bottle of your favourite wine. If you’re looking to explore a bit more, Cascade Creek Retreat is only a day trip away from the Catlins, get your feet sandy while you spot native seals and penguins or simply stay in and enjoy being away from the bustles of life.
booking.com
Chase the sun
Say goodbye to the winter chill. The Cook Islands heat is calling. As the days get chillier and we cosy up by the fire in our winter woolies, it can be difficult not to daydream about sun kissed beaches and warm summer breezes.
Say goodbye to the winter chill. The Cook Islands heat is calling
As the days get chillier and we cosy up by the fire in our winter woolies, it can be difficult not to daydream about sun kissed beaches and warm summer breezes. Blessed with endless days of glowing sunshine and balmy temperatures, travelling to the Cook Islands is a sizzling temptation for Kiwis this winter as summer is just a short flight away!
If you’ve caught the case of the winter blues and are in need of an uplift, research from Booking.com reveals that getting away on holiday is said to be the form of self-care in 2022 (more so than daily exercise or mindful meditation!) with over three-quarters of people (79%) affirming that travel helps their mental and emotional wellbeing more than other forms of rest and relaxation. Here are Booking.com’s top Rarotonga destinations for the ultimate tropical getaway.
Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa is a beachfront paradise for travellers wanting to live their summer day dream. Overlooking the beautiful Muri Lagoon, these luxury villas offer a truly 5-star experience with a private pool and patio. Guests can make the most of the island life with free use of kayaks, so they can spend their days on the glowing blue water taking in their surroundings. The Te Manava Spa offers relaxing therapies including massages and pedicures, so travellers can really unwind and recharge at the end of their holiday. Furthermore, these villas are ideal for the eco-conscious traveller as they’re a Booking.com Travel Sustainable property.
Inspired by the turquoise water of Muri Lagoon, Crystal Blue Lagoon boasts stylish modern villas in an idyllic beachfront location. This tranquil retreat features an infinity pool with breath-taking sea views, where guests can truly feel like they’re in paradise.
Guests are able to enjoy free use of snorkelling gear, so they can hop from pool to lagoon and explore all of the beautiful reefs nearby. These self-contained villas offer guests privacy, with all of the required facilities to ensure they have everything they need for their stay.
The beachfront Ocean Spray Villa offers incredible panoramic views of the lagoon, beach and the Pacific Ocean, so Kiwis will be able to truly immerse themselves in the ‘beach bum’ life while they chase that summer feeling. The spacious, homely rooms have an almost ‘Bach’ like vibe, so Kiwis will feel right at home when they’re chasing more of those summer days.
Situated right on the beach, Muri Beachcomber offers direct access to Muri Beach and its extraordinary white sand. The crystal clear water looks like something off of a postcard, guaranteeing travellers a real slice of paradise!
Guests are given free access to kayaks and paddle boards, meaning they’re able to make the most of the island lifestyle and cruise over the stunning ocean waters all day long. Whether you want to swim in the outdoor pool, snorkel in the lagoon just metres from the property, or book in scuba diving and sailing, guests can be sure they won’t find themselves bored here.