Local roots to global rise
The Bay of Plenty is home to some incredible examples of entrepreneurs
who have backed themselves and taken a concept or product to global scale. We talk to three local businesses at different stages of their life cycle – one that has been established for nearly 19 years, one nine and one three. All prove without a doubt that the best way to do it is ‘to do it’.
words NICKY ADAMS | photography GRAEME MURRAY
hair + make-up DESIREE OSTERMAN styling LILIA CASS
Lara Henderson from Pure Mama.
Great expectations
Lara Henderson, co-founder of Pure Mama, knew from the outset she wanted her brand to go global. Picking a name for her product that would resonate with customers internationally, and taking the plunge by paying over the odds for a .com domain name, the intent was always to take her Pure Mama brand to New Zealand and beyond.
With products that have taken the pregnancy world by storm since their inception three years ago, meeting Lara very quickly dispels any notion that this was an accidental success. I must admit I was curious how these beauty products had gained such traction. Within three short years they’ve gone from being packed in Lara’s front room to being launched in the holy grail of markets, the United States.
In person Lara is warm, friendly and inspirational in a very matter of fact way. She can systematically break down her strategy, while giving kudos to her team and strong family support, and lets it be known that she is happy to share what she has learnt from her journey with others. Lara came from a corporate background, where after completing a marketing and commercial law degree she had forged a successful career in the advertising and marketing world. She fell pregnant in 2019 and during this time a germ of an idea sprouted.
“I went down this journey of looking for new skincare because there’s a lot of things you need to change when you’re pregnant… I questioned why there wasn’t a product out there for the modern conscious consumer that values high integrity of products but still loves beautiful packaging and refined design.”
The quest continued after the baby was born. “I was looking for something to support my breastfeeding journey – and I couldn’t find anything natural I could use on my skin. I had this idea for a range of products to support women on their pregnancy or post-partum journey. I started doing research and I ran an online survey of about 700 women. The further I dug into it the more I discovered there was an opportunity in the market.”
Ten months post-partum she went for a meeting with an old colleague and mentor. He listened to her idea and saw the potential. “He really gave me the confidence to push go.”
Two years of product development and packaging design research followed before coming to the market in 2021 with three product lines (SKUs): Belly Oil, Bump Scrub and Nipple Butter, and a gift set. I noted it was intriguing how Lara had navigated the world of skincare, when it wasn’t an area she was familiar with. “I didn’t realise but there are amazing manufacturers in New Zealand that can produce skincare, so I pitched my concept to one of the leading laboratories here. For them to take you on as a client they have to believe in your potential as a business. I took my formulations on what I would like to have in it, which became my core ingredients. I’d researched every single ingredient and every single competitor product, and then worked with an advanced skincare chemist to bring a product to market that has stability for three years and with ingredients that all work together.”
The process of bringing the product to market was a learning curve; there was the science behind the product, as well as the slow and arduous task of getting everything absolutely perfect. Add to this the cost – estimated at about $120,000 to get to this stage, and, Lara points out, “I had to really believe in it.” Lara has a surety about her which gives her real gravitas. Despite her conviction in her product, launch day was, she says, “terrifying”. Here she had experience to draw on though. “Turning on the website was where my digital marketing came in – I understood the consumer journey.”
Lara Henderson from Pure Mama.
Going live in May 2021, the minimum order to start manufacturing was around 2,000 units per SKU. Within three months the Belly Oil had sold out, with the other products also performing incredibly well. This, she says, “gave me a clear indication of proof of concept – there was a market need out there and the product was good enough to sell (we haven’t changed our formulation since day dot).”
The first 12 months in New Zealand were really promising, and, says Lara, “I’d looked at New Zealand, Australia, as well as the US and the competitive landscape across all of those markets. And I still felt strongly that we had a positioning in there – that was always my intention – but to get that proof of concept in a test market like New Zealand is amazing.”
With the success of the product followed a gradual expansion of the team, which now numbers at five. Maggie was first on board in October ‘21 to support with sales and partnerships, Lara’s sister Yasmin who had been integral since the offset during the company conception officially came on board as a partner and full time in September ‘23. With her came high-level expertise in corporate finance. The team are all in accord, with the ability to have honest, frank dialogue and respecting each other’s opinions. Lara believes, “One of our strengths as a team is that we adapt and change really quickly to help optimise us as a business.”
While the original formulation hasn’t changed, the pursuit of perfection continues with constant tweaks to the packaging (which it is obvious Lara is passionate about), and the addition of gift sets and Magnesium Body Rub. Ten new launches are dropping in 2024/5, which the loyal Pure Mama community will all be waiting for expectantly. The social community of 48,000, Lara says, is something she really values, and she personally responds to the direct messages which fly around with questions about quality, performance and general queries. The connection with her people has been loyally rewarded – back in August 2023 word got out that Kourtney Kardashian was looking for recommendations for clean body care recommendations for pregnancy. Lara asked her community to support her, and they did. In addition, “we were able to get products to Kourtney through numerous different channels.” Lara waited in anticipation, but heard nothing. “Then Kourtney had her baby and an article came out around what she packed in her hospital bag, and our Nipple Butter was featured – and then another article came out about her pregnancy skincare regime and all three of our other products were there. What I love about Kourtney Kardashian is that she’s so conscious about her skincare. She looks at every ingredient, she checks with everybody about what she puts on her skin – so for all four products to be recommended by her is absolute gold for a business like ours.”
Despite the fleeting euphoria, Lara is a pragmatist. “It’s a moment in time, and you’ve got to take those wins and go ‘what am I doing next?’ I’m not particularly great at celebrating the achievements. I often look at opportunities it opens and then ask, ‘what's next?’”
It’s very clear though that the wins come down to strategy, rather than lucky breaks. Lara and the team have worked hard at not just producing a premium product, but at ensuring it has exposure to the right audience. Despite over two hundred requests from potential retailers in the first two years, from the outset she had her eyes set on MECCA, a premium beauty retailer with global recognition, and Pure Mama launched with them in July ‘23. Although it was put into a test category, the products have outperformed all expectations.
There are no current plans to vastly diversify, as Lara points out: “We’ve got a consumer for a limited amount of time – we’re very niche but our potential is huge. We want to be the best at what we do and we want to offer the safest highest grade products for the pregnancy and postpartum journey.”
With business booming Lara is amping up for the next challenge. For the last 12-18 months she has been working her way into the United States, where they’ve secured Macy’s, Nordstrom, Revolve and Erewhon (the cool kids’ upmarket store of choice in California). Manufacturing will continue in New Zealand, and Lara is confident in their ability to upscale. Nevertheless, it’s terrifying and exciting all at once; scale, logistics and funding all have to be considered – production is being upped at a vast rate, and myriad international rules and regulations will be navigated.
Pure Mama’s New Zealand office and warehouse remain in Pāpāmoa, where packages continue to whizz out at lightning speed. They also now have warehousing in Melbourne and California to service international markets. As a final feather in the cap, the clinical trials have just finished in Europe, with amazing results, proving the products work – stretch marks disappear and the skin is deeply hydrated. I wonder again at Lara’s linear path and her unwavering belief in her product, which comes without a trace of arrogance or delusion. Apparently she listened to a lot of podcasts in her downtime.
Says Lara: “When you start thinking about going global and accessing these networks, nothing is impossible and we’ve worked hard to build our business strategy around making sure all of that is within reach.”
Sam Kidd from LawVu.
Wonder Kidd
Under the careers opportunities section of the LawVu website, potential applicants are asked if they bring the WOO. What is woo, I wonder. But when I meet with co-founder Sam Kidd it becomes pretty clear what kind of WOO you need to join the team.
Sam and co-founder Tim Boyne created LawVu; a software platform that was created to revolutionise the way that in-house legal teams in organisations run their systems. It is, Sam explains, “a productivity and management tool for corporate legal… For us, LawVu is built around how internal legal teams like corporates collaborate with each other, and also with the wider business and how they manage their work product.”
The software platform has made waves on a global scale, placing ninth in Deloitte’s Fast 50 Index of 2022, to date raising about NZ$55million and with a team of around 130 worldwide. Any pre-conceptions about the type of person behind a techy concept are quickly dispelled on meeting Sam, who is gregarious and engaging. Sam, who was born and raised in New Zealand before spending 25 years in Ireland, moved to Tauranga in 2013, where he became interested in the concept of creating something for what he saw as an open space. He had started digging around in the in-house legal arena mainly out of curiosity after having identified a lack of systems and processes. “It was trying to solve a gap, and one thing led to another… It wasn’t like we woke up and saw a massive hole in the market.”
Sam was introduced to Tim via a work colleague. While Sam had a background in online project management, Tim was working in a law firm, but on the business operational side. “We worked solidly together for seven years (Tim moved onto new projects two years ago). The conversations that we had were very quickly aligned
on what we wanted to do and we both had the mindset of cracking on and getting stuff done – and it was a partnership that worked incredibly well.”
From inception, the plan was always to go global with the product. “It was a greenfields opportunity when we moved into it,” says Sam. “There were no real products doing what we did, which was both exciting and terrifying. We questioned whether it was just a really bad idea that no one wanted. At the start we were trying to sell the concept of doing things differently to a group of people (lawyers) who haven’t changed the process for 100 odd years. It’s been a journey to become an overnight success – we’re nine years in – the first three years were pretty lonely building the product with a handful of customers and early users. There were always things that kept us going but we didn’t hit the ground and just explode.”
Yet the pair never questioned their ambitions when it came to taking it overseas, with very much an all-in attitude from day one. I wondered why they hadn’t started with a more tentative approach. “If you build things for a New Zealand market thinking, ‘once we get this right, we can go global’, without realising it you can build nuances into your product that really only suit a smaller market. You need to get off the island as fast as possible. And you don’t need the same sort of war chest that you used to because before you had to have people on the ground – an office, a building − all of those sorts of barriers have been removed.”
Sam was undoubtedly forward thinking from the get-go, having previous experience of working remotely stood him in good stead. “When we started LawVu we were doing remote working before it became a thing. We’ve got customers through Australia, US, UK and Europe. Covid was an unlock – as horrible as that was for the world, I think it’s been a massive net positive for New Zealand-based companies because the whole idea of not having to be in market, or remote selling, has taken off. We were already building that muscle so when Covid hit it didn’t slow us down – it actually accelerated us because people weren’t comparing us to a sales team that could come in and meet them. I think it’s been such a good thing for Kiwi companies because we’ve got such great talent here and the world is getting smaller all the time. So, building product and building it with a global mindset from day one made a huge difference.”
Be under no illusion that the path was paved with gold from the outset – the sweat, toil and dollars were pumped in from the get-go. “A local investor seeded the first $100,000 in and I matched that, which got us going and then he and I funded it – I was five years with no salary. Then we kept putting money in. You don’t want to fail at that stage. I’ve always believed in never having a plan B. Plan A has to work. It keeps you motivated.”
Despite reservations initially that perhaps law was an unfamiliar space, Sam believes in some ways it helped him ask and solve different questions, in different ways. Another aspect of the business he has strived to change is to foster a sense of community and knowledge sharing among the lawyers working away in the corporates, through InView. This is both an online forum, and in magazine form where ‘unsung heroes’ are given space and elevated.
Ultimately, Sam points out, the shift in the very traditional industry of law was one that needed to happen. “The younger generation come in and they’re digital natives... so for them to step into an industry that doesn’t have a platform would be weird.” He emphasised that being a changemaker is not all glamour, in fact it’s very much grind, but the result is gratifying, and Sam intends to carry on growing, expanding and enjoying the satisfaction of making a difference and generally pushing forward. “It definitely feels surreal having LawVu folks representing at events all over the world – it’s humbling and exciting… and it’s hard to believe it started from here. It’s quite cool to see.”
Lisa Ebbing from HotMilk.
Hot stuff
Lisa Ebbing is very low key when it comes to her hold-on-to-your-seat success. Despite the phenomenal achievements of Hotmilk, the lingerie business she started in 2005 with her husband Roly and business partner at the time Ange Crosby, she is incredibly understated when talking about how far they’ve come. Achievements have been racked up on a global scale, including the dizzying heights of last year being taken on by American lingerie behemoth Victoria’s Secret.
When Lisa and Roly moved to the Bay they had already made the decision to start a business: the product they landed on was almost obscure – indeed, a niche within a niche. Hotmilk is a lingerie line for pregnant, breast-feeding and post-partum women, but with a luxurious fashion-forward focus. The need for underwear that was more than simply functional was a gap in the market that the couple quickly identified after Lisa became pregnant with her first baby and couldn’t find nursing bras. Despite not having a directly relevant skillset, between them they had a solid background in photography, TV and film – and their business partner at the time had also been working in sales. “So we had the sales and marketing expertise to bring to it. We didn’t know anything about lingerie: my husband actually sewed the first few prototypes to see what was possible, so that was a steep learning curve.”
Navigating a totally unknown market meant a massive amount of research needed to be done. Lisa reflects on the drive of those early days. “We travelled, studied up on samples, went to China, worked with factories, saw products that we liked, and figured out how we could improve them.” The next step was rolling out the product itself, which meant finding the right people. “It took quite a while to get the expertise, to find the seamstresses that had the right equipment – then getting prototypes ready and then be big enough to go to China, which probably took a year. And then you really do have access to great technology. It is possible to make them in New Zealand but there are no machinests left here, so our only choice was to work with China, who are experts in lingerie. You can tap into amazing resources and work with some very skilled people… We would have loved to have kept
it in New Zealand but there’s not even the equipment to keep it here, sadly.”
Having landed on a product with a limited target market, it was always clear that a global market was going to be necessary, but self-belief gave them the confidence to propel forward, initially starting with four core products of bras and matching underwear. “We’d done research on the size of the New Zealand market and realised we needed to go overseas quickly. So, it was pretty much within the year we were in Australia and headed to the UK.”
The factories themselves demanded large volume orders (2,000 bras in one colour), which also forced them offshore from the early stages. Luckily the rest of the world had also neglected this corner of the market, underestimating a demand for lovely lingerie during and post pregnancy, so Hot Milk found itself warmly welcomed in all corners of the globe. “There was no competition really. All the big companies had a token nursing bra on the side that they put very little effort into. That was the same globally – it was very beige and grandma’s bra.” Lisa pauses to reflect, and acknowledges, modestly, “I’m still very proud of that – we definitely changed the landscape for nursing lingerie. Now there’s lots of competitors, but we were the first, and we’ve changed the experience for women worldwide now.”
With New Zealand only taking about 10 percent of the market, and Australia around 40 percent, the other 50 percent is global. At one point peaking with as many as 800 retailers, Hot Milk is able to boast the crème de la crème of stores in which its lingerie can be found. From the undisputed underwear queen of Marks and Spencer in the UK, as well as the prestigious John Lewis, there is Bravissimo, David Jones in Australia and now Victoria’s Secret. With this American juggernaut comes a vast customer base: “They’ve sent emails with our product to 70 million people.” The relationship works both ways though. “Victoria’s Secret really understand what we’re trying to achieve, and the inclusivity and the diversity that our brand offers,” says Lisa. “It’s been really exciting to be chosen for that. While they do their own – they’re really good at a certain size range and style − we fill the gaps of their expertise.”
Diversity is clearly something Lisa is passionate about, and certainly her faith in its value has been validated.
It hasn’t, however, all been smooth sailing. The GFC needed strategic navigation. “Our niche was that we were sexy and beautiful so very fashion forward, then when the GFC hit we realised what happens in a financial crisis is that women can’t afford nice underwear or feel like they shouldn’t treat themselves. But they do know they need the basics so they will buy a black or a nude plain T-shirt bra. We did have to adapt and bring in our essentials range, which is more staples as well, to sit alongside our fashion… You can see it post Covid where people are returning back to the basics. Black and nude and plain are what sells through a financial crisis and when things start to get better people start to treat themselves again.”
Already set up online, Covid wasn’t the disaster it could have been, so while competitors were scrambling, Hotmilk actually had some of its best financial years. Says Lisa: “We found we could adapt between different markets or online or wholesale.” At this time Lisa brought out her partner and has subsequently entered a refreshed phase, which has led to doubling her team. “Since Covid we’ve decided we’re going to stick with and focus on what we do well,” she continues. “It’s better for our brand to stay close to lingerie… We are still a small team competing against really major players. Nevertheless, we’ve got some exciting things we’re working on that will see us become a bigger player… We’ve definitely got a growth strategy but it’s in its infancy.”
Ultimately, it wasn’t just good fortune that led to this success – quality and the inclusivity factor, which had been hitherto largely forgotten, played a huge part.
On a final note, I ask what advice Lisa would offer to others. “In the Bay there are some amazing advisors who want to help − and I probably should have put my hand up earlier and asked for advice, because there’s a lot of trial and error.
“I always used to say − everyone has great business ideas but it’s the people who follow through that actually make it.”
