Northland: About as good as it gets for UNO editor Jenny Rudd
WORDS JENNY RUDD / PHOTOS SUPPLIED
If you mention Northland to anyone in Aotearoa, it’s often met with sighs of longing. People love it. Warmth, beauty, isolation – the best things come in threes. The top of our country has that delicious feeling of being a gazillion miles from anywhere, and there’s so much to do! This is the second year in a row my family and I travelled up there in the school holidays, and I feel like we’ve barely touched the surface. But here are my top picks – so far – from the land where the sun always shines.
STAY
Via HomeAway, on this trip we rented a holiday house in Coopers Beach dubbed As Good As It Gets. It turned out to be a fair description. The property was on the water's edge in a private bay, so we were able to snorkel straight from our doorstep. This little town overlooking Doubtless Bay also had everything we needed to keep us happy, including a great supermarket, a dairy selling ice creams by the beach, and a spot for playing housie with my mum on the Saturday night.
STRETCH
We blew away any lingering cobwebs with daily strolls at Taumarumaru Reserve between Coopers Beach and Cable Bay. An oversized grassy knoll, the scenic reserve has lots of tracks that take you up to some great vantage points from which you can gaze out over the ocean.
SNORKEL
Just up from Coopers Beach is Maitai Bay at the end of the Karikari Peninsula, which curves around the top of Doubtless Bay. As we walked over the lip of the carpark and onto the top of the dunes, I saw a dream-like fantasy beach spread below us – white sand in a perfect crescent with rocks sprinkled at either end. While younger children stood in the shallows and dipped their heads beneath the surface to look at baby squid, my husband, UNO publisher Mat Tomlinson, and I snorkelled in bright blue water, which was teeming with wildlife thanks to the no-take rāhui. We went out around the coast with our four teens to swim through caves, holding rocks so we could sit on the bottom and look up at the fish floating around us.
Most mornings we kicked off with some sunrise fishing on Tokerau Beach. It’s the quintessential start of a day for a Kiwi on holiday. The kids loved it, although their interest in waking up at dawn waned as the week went on and they realised our fishing skills weren’t bagging us any fish.
SLIDE
Head further north to Te Paki’s giant sand dunes, where you can rent a boogie board and tear down the slopes on your stomach. I’d never seen dunes this size before, and the view from the top was spectacular, all the way back to Ninety Mile Beach. Going really fast down seriously steep dunes made us laugh a lot, so here a top tip: laugh with your mouth closed when you’re tearing downhill. At the bottom of the dunes, you can follow the Te Paki stream to the west coast in a 4WD to check out the endless beach.
SNACK
A few minutes drive from our Coopers Beach base was the Mangonui Fish Shop. As well as exemplary fish ’n’ chips, they sell all things kaimoana at this picturesque spot on the water. If you’re not too full after your meal, see if you can manage an extra treat from their fine array of $5 desserts. We had to go back again so I could have the ice cream sundae and half a pint of chocolate mousse. On your way up to Te Paki, you should stop at the Container Café in Pukenui for a paua pie. Put it in your sat-nav: 4229 Far North Road. They’re world- famous in New Zealand.
The Northland website has some great ideas on things to do and places to stay. Plan your trip out here. NORTHLANDNZ.COM