Philanthropist Sally Morrison on her life’s missions

You’ve gotta give it to lifelong philanthropist Sally Morrison – she’s one very special woman.

WORDS MONIQUE BALVERT- O’CONNOR PHOTOS JAHL MARSHALL

It’s been 18 years since you first wrote about me,” says Sally Morrison. “Frog Cottage,” she prompts, and I’m transported back to the character green- and-white home she owned on Tauranga’s Devonport Road.

Actually, there have been several stories over the years highlighting her gardening prowess, beautifully bedecked homes and more. I may be slightly vague on the details, but I forgive myself, and for a good reason that has nothing to do with the passing of time. Quite simply, such memories are superseded by my recall of Sally’s philanthropy. What I remember with great clarity is Sally’s volunteer work at a Vietnamese leper colony.

We settle down to chat in Sally’s Mt Maunganui apartment, where she tells me that the leper colony chapter of her life started back in the 1990s. A fellow Tauranga Sunrise Rotary Club founding member spoke to her about his auntie, a Catholic nun, and her work in Vietnam. Sister Sheila O’Toole went to Saigon during the Vietnam War, was held hostage in a prisoner-of-war camp, and was one of the last people to depart from the US embassy in 1975. She returned to Vietnam in 1992, spent another 12 years there and is the most decorated New Zealander in relation to Vietnam.

Enthralled, Sally filed away the Sr Sheila information, vowing to one day hunt her down. That day came later that year, after Sally’s daughter Trinity celebrated her 21st birthday.

“I thought Trinity had had a reasonably good life and I wanted to show her how other people lived,” says Sally. “I took her to India for a month and on the way back we called in to Vietnam to see if I could meet Sister Sheila O’Toole.”

Sally’s life path changed when “a lady, just about in rags” pulled up on a motorbike to meet this inquisitive fellow Kiwi. “She sat down and told us about her service at a leper colony. She’s the most amazing, bravest woman I’ve ever met.

“We sat there in the middle of nowhere in a street that was like another planet – so much poverty – and we were spellbound. She took us later to Ben San [Leprosy Centre], which was then run by nuns. It took about three-quarters of a day to get there from Ho Chi Minh. It’s walled, barbed-wired, and there were guards. I thought, ‘This challenge is a bit of me’ and that’s how it started.”

Sally went back to her Sunrise Rotary Club armed with the news that there was a lot of good they could do there, and got the desired support. An initial step was acquiring a licence so she could teach the nurses at the centre (none of whom were registered) how to look after leprosy patients. This was in the late 1990s and over the next 14 years, Sally visited voluntarily seven times for two-week stints of teaching and nursing. Nurses from other hospitals attended her lessons and she thinks she trained about 50 staff over the years. Sally left them her training manuals so they, in turn, could help others.

“It was very hands-on,” says Sally. “I’d help deal with the head lice, which were crawling; I’d massage lotion into the skin of those with scabies [previously they’d been scrubbed with pot mitts]; I’d go in at night and sit with the dying; and the nuns would teach me Vietnamese and I’d teach them English.

“The people there had so little. I used to take nail polish over and they treated it like absolute gold. They’d line up so I could paint one or two fingernails (that’s all they had) and they – women and men – loved it. The nails on every finger they had left would be painted a different colour.”

While there, Sally stayed at the colony in a bedroom where netting was a blessing as the spiders were “as big as dinner plates”. Initially, there was no hot running water, but Sunrise Rotary changed that by putting in solar heating. They also sent a container full of goodies including spare beds from the hospital she owned, Oakland Health. She also brought furniture, linen, games, felt pens and colouring books for the children at the school within the colony. Both contributions were life-altering.

Then there was the goodness that came from Comvita; namely, $149,000 worth of wound-care product. The healing effect that had on the leprosy patients blew Sally’s mind.

Sally’s missions to Vietnam continued until 2007. That same year she sold Oakland Health, having bought it 27 years earlier. Back then, it provided for 19 medical patients, mostly aged-care and a medical patients, mostly aged-care and a few young, severely disabled people. Under Sally’s watch, it grew to support more such patients, plus others with traumatic brain injuries, young patients, post-operative orthopaedic care and war veterans from Wellington, and offered aggressive and slow-stream rehabilitation and physiotherapy services, palliative care and a meals-on-wheels service. Apartments and a hydropool for rehab were added, which saw it catering for 102 people in-house and about 140 outpatients.

They were busy days, but there was always time for doing charitable good. Sally held governance positions at organisations such as Private Hospital Association and the Acorn Foundation. She helped start Tauranga’s first Lioness Club, the Tauranga Festival, and her precious Tauranga Sunrise Rotary Club, and judged competitions involving enterprising young people. The Queen’s people took note. “I got a gong,” smiles this New Zealand Order of Merit recipient.

Sally can’t park philanthropy. These days, she and some other women are part of a giving circle with the Acorn Foundation. “We put money in the can every month, then give it out,” she says, citing Women’s Refuge and disadvantaged children among the recipients.

She remains “neurotic” about New Zealand’s health system. It just doesn’t provide well enough for the many needs out there, she says.

Amid time with friends and family (her grandchildren live nearby) and beach walks with her two dogs, Sally is writing a book to inspire people to act on their dreams. “It’s not a look-at-me story,” she says. “It’s about how even if you come from nothing – I came from a state house – you can achieve whatever you like, with effort. My advice is to always surround yourself with a good team of supportive people. I couldn’t have done anything by myself – I owe whatever I’ve done to a team of people.

“Read about people with grunt, be a bit mouthy like me, and stick up for yourself and your basic principles,” is her advice.

Sally concedes she’s done good in her time but quickly adds that she doesn’t need awards, flowers, a red carpet or stories written about her. “If I get a smile, I’m as happy as a pig in mud.”

ROTARYTAURANGAAM.CLUB

Take me to the river - a winter weekend away in the Waikato

Take me to the river...and the zoo, and the gardens – UNO’s Hannah Keys has hot tips for a weekend getaway in the Waikato.

PHOTOS HANNAH KEYS

With a free weekend and the whole family to entertain, we decided a trip to Hamilton was on the cards. Searching Booking.com, I found a gorgeous house just outside the city and right on the river; signed myself, my children Nico (7) and Inez (2), and my parents Janet and Roger up for two nights; then set about planning an itinerary that explores some of the city’s hot spots.

STAY

ON THE RIVER

When we arrived at our accommodation, On The River, after dusk on Friday evening, the air was heavy with the scent of eucalyptus. Fire and electric blankets on, we settled in with hot chocolate and felt right at home. This architecturally designed house is an absolute winner for group travel, with a huge kitchen and living areas in the main dwelling, along with four bedrooms. In the morning, the full majesty of the property was revealed, including its big outdoor space, rambling gardens and pebbled pathways leading down to the banks of the Waikato River. It would have been easy enough to snuggle up for the day and enjoy the serene scene at our doorstep, but our littlest travel companions put a swift end to that idea.

DO

WAIKATO MUSEUM

This trip was a reminder for me of the history Hamilton offers, from the early architecture lining the streets of the central city to the museums. We visited the Waikato Museum Te Whare Taonga o Waikato, taking in the fantastic exhibition of Marti Friedlander photography and the E Hina e! E Hine e! display exploring the contemporary relevance of female Maaori and Kanaka Maoli (Native Hawaiian) ancestors. There’s an interactive science gallery for kids as well.

HAMILTON ZOO

As soon as the kids caught wind of the fact that Hamilton has a zoo, it rocketed to the top of the to-do list. Actually, it was just as appealing for the adults, proving to be an enjoyable wander through a really-quite-beautiful compound. The animals’ enclosures are structured in such a way that you’re able to have the kind of close encounters you wouldn’t get elsewhere; think zebras scratching their backs on the fence a metre in front of you and giraffes having their lunch an arm’s length away.

HAMILTON GARDENS

We caught a break in the winter weather that let us explore the otherworldly Hamilton Gardens. We’d all either never been or not visited for a good decade, so we were all greatly impressed by these meticulously designed and transportive gardens, which left us feeling inspired and surprisingly well-travelled as we headed back home over the hill.

EAT

HAYES COMMON

Near the river in Hamilton East is the very cool Hayes Common. Reservations are a good idea, but we were lucky enough to nab a table outside on the fly, and it was well worth braving the cold for. The eggs Benedict and maple-soaked crêpes went down a treat, while my winter salad was a taste explosion, with house-cured salmon, smoked beetroot and a touch of citrus.

GREY STREET KITCHEN

We also stopped in for coffee and cake at Grey Street Kitchen, which is co-owned by two-time New Zealand barista champion Dove Chen. The food here is delicious; I had my eye on the gluten-free gnocchi with Hamilton-grown oyster mushrooms.

Our stay at On The River was courtesy of BOOKING.COM. I found the app so easy to use and the flexible cancellation policy meant I was happy to book without hesitation.

Northland: About as good as it gets for UNO editor Jenny Rudd

WORDS JENNY RUDD / PHOTOS SUPPLIED

If you mention Northland to anyone in Aotearoa, it’s often met with sighs of longing. People love it. Warmth, beauty, isolation – the best things come in threes. The top of our country has that delicious feeling of being a gazillion miles from anywhere, and there’s so much to do! This is the second year in a row my family and I travelled up there in the school holidays, and I feel like we’ve barely touched the surface. But here are my top picks – so far – from the land where the sun always shines.

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STAY

Via HomeAway, on this trip we rented a holiday house in Coopers Beach dubbed As Good As It Gets. It turned out to be a fair description. The property was on the water's edge in a private bay, so we were able to snorkel straight from our doorstep. This little town overlooking Doubtless Bay also had everything we needed to keep us happy, including a great supermarket, a dairy selling ice creams by the beach, and a spot for playing housie with my mum on the Saturday night.

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STRETCH

We blew away any lingering cobwebs with daily strolls at Taumarumaru Reserve between Coopers Beach and Cable Bay. An oversized grassy knoll, the scenic reserve has lots of tracks that take you up to some great vantage points from which you can gaze out over the ocean.

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SNORKEL

Just up from Coopers Beach is Maitai Bay at the end of the Karikari Peninsula, which curves around the top of Doubtless Bay. As we walked over the lip of the carpark and onto the top of the dunes, I saw a dream-like fantasy beach spread below us – white sand in a perfect crescent with rocks sprinkled at either end. While younger children stood in the shallows and dipped their heads beneath the surface to look at baby squid, my husband, UNO publisher Mat Tomlinson, and I snorkelled in bright blue water, which was teeming with wildlife thanks to the no-take rāhui. We went out around the coast with our four teens to swim through caves, holding rocks so we could sit on the bottom and look up at the fish floating around us.

Most mornings we kicked off with some sunrise fishing on Tokerau Beach. It’s the quintessential start of a day for a Kiwi on holiday. The kids loved it, although their interest in waking up at dawn waned as the week went on and they realised our fishing skills weren’t bagging us any fish.

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SLIDE

Head further north to Te Paki’s giant sand dunes, where you can rent a boogie board and tear down the slopes on your stomach. I’d never seen dunes this size before, and the view from the top was spectacular, all the way back to Ninety Mile Beach. Going really fast down seriously steep dunes made us laugh a lot, so here a top tip: laugh with your mouth closed when you’re tearing downhill. At the bottom of the dunes, you can follow the Te Paki stream to the west coast in a 4WD to check out the endless beach.

SNACK

A few minutes drive from our Coopers Beach base was the Mangonui Fish Shop. As well as exemplary fish ’n’ chips, they sell all things kaimoana at this picturesque spot on the water. If you’re not too full after your meal, see if you can manage an extra treat from their fine array of $5 desserts. We had to go back again so I could have the ice cream sundae and half a pint of chocolate mousse. On your way up to Te Paki, you should stop at the Container Café in Pukenui for a paua pie. Put it in your sat-nav: 4229 Far North Road. They’re world- famous in New Zealand.

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The Northland website has some great ideas on things to do and places to stay. Plan your trip out here. NORTHLANDNZ.COM

Just keep swimming: a love affair with year-round outdoor dips

WORDS Annette Lees PHOTOS Supplied

The Bay of Plenty could have been called “Bay of Plentiful Waters” – with hundreds of streams cascading down off its ranges, deep rivers delivering the streams to numerous wetlands and estuaries, and then all of that fresh water flowing into the sea.  

It’s a watery place, and so it’s a swimmy place. Every little neighbourhood here has its outdoor swim – a fizzing plunge pool in the local creek, a rope swing out across the river hole, a place to float in the warm estuary water and, of course, the coast with its surf and rock pools.

From the very first, outdoor swimming has defined the Bay. The first swimmer in Tauranga may have been Taurikura, a puhi of Ngāti Ranginui. Taurikura was from a village called Kahakaharoa in the Omanawa Falls area. She was shamed for refusing to fetch water for her grandfather, so she slipped away from her village one night, changed into a ngārara (a reptile-like being), and dived into the river.  On that swim, she carved a new course for the river, in the process naming some of our favourite swimming places, until she reached the sea. 

I grew up in Whakatāne. My childhood, like that of almost every other kid I knew, revolved around our swimming places. I swam everywhere I could, building layers of water memories and a strong sense of place and home – a “water-biography”. It wasn’t until my own kids became teenagers that my habit to jump into any water at my feet started to fade. And then came a fateful summer when I dipped into wild freshwater only once or twice. 

I shocked myself. I had never wanted to be that dry adult who stood on the bank or the beach, lazily watching the kids have all the fun. So I made a resolution to swim every day the coming summer to break the spell and return me to the delight of immersing myself in the wild.

That year, I did swim every day of summer. I loved it so much that I carried on, swimming every day all through autumn and into the winter and then through spring. 365 days that had a mini-holiday inserted into them every time I jumped in.  

I swam wherever I found myself that day, so I frequently entered unknown waterscapes. I approached strangers to ask where they swam and, through this, a nationwide network of very local swims opened up to me. I met people everywhere taking a dip in all kinds of weather, all through the year, and collected swimming stories from all over the country.

As I collated those stories into a book, I had the sense of a great swell of serious passion for water and swimming by New Zealanders that goes back hundreds of years.

I found 100-year-old stories from childhoods spent in the creeks of the western Bay of Plenty. In one, a memory from the 1920s, local kids filled coal sacks with stones to dam the Waitete Stream near Waihi. Each swimming hole had its own name and if you helped dam it, you were a member of that place for the summer and could swim there whenever you wanted. Winter storms washed the whole thing away, but no one minded the fun and watery job to rebuild it the following summer.

Mount Maunganui, of course, has a long history of happiness in the water. One memory from the 1920s featured the use of the ironing board to catch the waves.

Water-biographies are still being built all over the Bay of Plenty. Any beach, any river hole you were at this summer, you would’ve seen kids in the water. And with Tauranga’s recent investment in the Tidal Steps, you’re invited to step into the water any old time you’re in town.  

The Tidal Steps is an officially sanctioned bombing place where kids can practice the old leaps - the Pin, the Gorilla, the Coffin Bomb, the Knee Bomb, the Angel, and the more traditional Cannonball. In recent years, we have the Manu, a bomb simulating a bird taking flight. A good Manu bomber enters the water in a perfect V, with legs and arms straight up and the tailbone entering the water first.  Advanced is to hold a rugby or volley ball between your legs as you pop the Manu, sending the ball tens of metres into the air when you hit the water.  

Bombing is a competitive sport now, with its own town and national tournaments. In 2017, Tauranga had its first official bomb competition at the newly opened Tidal Steps. More than 30 bombers fought it out that year for the Best Bomber title, and the numbers of people entering these competitions grows annually. There’s even an “old people’s” category for those over 45.

Don’t let the arrival of winter put you off a dip. This season can provide us with some of our best swimming. Winter swimming has a seriousness about it. In my year of swimming, I found it did take a little more dedication to out in the cold, rain and gales. The sun is slow to rise and early to descend in winter, so I would sometimes have to swim in the dark to keep my pledge, but there is an added deliciousness about night time swimming.

Founder of that New Zealand icon the Plunket Society, Dr Truby King placed cold-water swimming among his top six essentials for health. The others were fruit, raw vegetables, coarse bread, water-drinking and vigorous towelling-down.

It is true that swimming in very cold water is one of life’s great experiences. A glorious shock awakens the entire body. You are made instantaneously present and aware. You have a vivid sensation of inner cleansing, revitalising and freshening. All of your senses are sharpened by peril, so that light appears crisper, your sense of touch precise, your tastebuds bright and the scent of coldness concentrated.  

When you emerge, the blood returns to your skin in a visible fizz of pink health. You are burning from head to foot, and you are likely to be laughing. The coolness, freshness and sparkle will stay with you for many hours, leaving you with a bountiful sense of wellbeing and joy. You will be kinder to your family and more generous to your workmates. You feel calm. You feel assured that the day will be exactly the right length to achieve what needs to be done. Well, that’s how it feels, anyway. I bet you swam in cold water as a kid. Try it again. Nothing’s changed.

There are actually proven health benefits to cold-water swimming. People suffering from pain or allergies (rheumatism, fibromyalgia and asthma) describe how their symptoms are eased by winter swimming, perhaps because of the sudden burst of neuroendocrines which act as natural painkillers and anti-inflammatories. Swimming regularly in winter significantly reduces tension, fatigue, and negative memory and mood states. 

You could, of course, just have a cold bath, but then you miss out on all the loveliness of wild water. Open wild water adds to each swim special qualities of sunlight slanting through the lake or sea, watery views of the natural world, full immersion in the temperature of the season, and a taste of the water’s origin. Water has 600 times the resistance of air, so it is an effort to swim through it. At the same time, it holds us up, allowing us to discover its multiple dimensions – sideways, down and back up again. We get to explore as if we’re flying. We feel weightless and freed: A 70-kilogram adult weighs only 3.5kg in water.  

Only outdoor swimming has bright light shafting through the water. The pools of watery darkness as clouds pass overhead. The wind and waves. The sense of risk and wildness and freedom. Unknown things rising up out of murky water. A feeling of falling when the water below is so deep and clear you can see fathoms. Disorientation without painted lines on the bottom. Not being able to stand, just in case you need to. The cold. The underside of paddling ducks, the flicking swish of a fish, the silence, the wobbling horizon, the distant mountain, the reflection of clouds, the fresh silkiness of wild water on your skin, the ripples and coins of light on the water surface, the rocking of the waves and currents, the watery blue. Fear and joy all mixed up. The wild blue yonder right here in the Bay of Plenty.

Swim: A Year of Swimming Outdoors in New Zealand, by Annette Lees (Potton & Burton $39.99). Available from pottonandburton.co.nz and booksaplenty.co.nz

A dash of the special sauce.

New restaurant Sugo serves Italian food at its finest – fancy-ish but wholly fuss-free.

When Ian Harrison says Tauranga’s new eatery, Sugo, is his happy place, it’s a comment to savour. He’s opened 19 restaurants and hotels on behalf of others, five of them in two years as an executive chef, and cooked his way around the world for 20-plus years working with chefs of high repute and at Michelin-starred restaurants. Until recently, his dream was to own an intimate fine-dining restaurant, but now he’s toned it down a tad – and he couldn’t be happier. He suspects New Zealand has rubbed off on him.

British-born Ian is chef and co-owner of Sugo, which became a tasty addition to Tauranga’s eating scene in early November. “It’s contemporary, seasonal, fresh and a nod to Italy, but it’s also no fuss,” he says. “I now know I’ll never open that fine-dining restaurant I used to dream about. I just want good, fresh food in a relaxed setting. I think I’ve become a Kiwi!”

Ian came to New Zealand for eight months, 10 years ago. He fell in love with the country – and one of its inhabitants, whom he’s since wed. Five years were spent in Auckland then it was on to the Bay of Plenty, where he was executive chef at Alpino and Clarence. At Alpino, he sharpened his skills in Italian cuisine; at Clarence he fine-tuned his European-Kiwi tools. “Those combined, brought me to Sugo,” he says.

On Wharf Street, Sugo is hard to miss. The facade of the Italian-inspired eatery is green, white lights and planters hang overhead, and red umbrellas shelter tables topped with terracotta plant pots. There’s an abundance of décor wow indoors, where a variety of seating options cater for 60 to 70. Alfresco dining numbers (when the Wharf Street upgrade is completed) will sit at 50. 

Sugo’s tagline is “Italian inspired” and Ian believes anyone who’s been to Italy will taste the connection. Ian, who preserves and ferments as well as cooks, enthuses over seasonal and fresh food, and says pasta and antipasti are stars, as are unsung heroes in the meat world. ‘Sugo’ means ‘sauce’ and there’ll be plenty of that – he’s a dab hand at making them and they’re a key element in Italian cooking.

Instead of fussing excessively over presentation and the addition of numerous ingredients, Ian says he’d rather spend time finding suppliers (he has about 19) who offer top-notch products. “I want to source the best ingredients I can find, do as little as possible to them, then deliver so the products can sing. He doesn’t see the need for too many ingredients per dish, either, nor an extensive menu.

Ian and business partners Josh Fitzgerald and Warren and Megan Lippi-Smith have ensured Sugo dining is also relatively affordable – most mains are $30 and nothing’s over $35. A lunch menu will be added in February, perfect for those working in the CBD. Oh, and free of charge are dog biscuits made on-site for visiting pooches. 

“I’m cooking good food, enjoying myself and making my mum and dad proud,” says Ian. “This place reminds me why I got into doing what I do.”

SUGO.CO.NZ

Column: Craig Orr shares his secrets to property success

Growing up, my family had a bach at the Mount on Oceanview Road, so we’d escape Hamilton and spend our summers here by the beach. But it wasn’t until I met my wife Natasha not long after I moved back to New Zealand from Perth that I finally moved to the Bay for good. Tash was working at clothing store Augustine, and one day I went in there with my sister and son Duke (now 11), who was two at the time. It was instant fireworks. Now Tash and I are raising our daughters, Estelle (7) and Ivy (3), while Duke, a budding surfer, lives in Jan Juc in Victoria. Safe to say I’m itching to see him when the trans-Tasman bubble gets going! 

Being in real estate with Bayleys means I have the flexibility to be there for my kids a bit more. I live for the mornings when we scooter to school and kindy. It’s that close-knit-village feel of our city that makes it such a fantastic place to work and raise a family. 

I started as a lifestyle-property agent but naturally moved into residential property through referrals and as my family-minded clients moved around, selling their properties to upgrade or downsizing after their kids had moved out. I cover much of Tauranga and the outskirts, from the Mount to Waihi Beach, but you’ll often find me in Omanu, Te Puna and Tauriko. The best part is I’ve made some really good friends working in the business. I even attended the wedding of some great clients who recently got married on the Te Puna property I sold them.
People buy from agents they trust, and I can tell almost instantly how a buyer feels about a home. You can sense it – and that’s the key to being a great agent. 

Just the other week, I had a woman wanting to buy a property I’d listed, but she needed to sell hers first. We got it on the market for her and sold it within a week. To help someone make the move they want to make in a stress-free, positive way is what it’s all about. 

As a former landscaper, part of what I bring to the table is my hands-on experience in making a home more liveable when it comes to the backyard. In the Bay of Plenty, so many of us live outside, so I can help clients see how to create the ideal outdoor spaces. 

In my twenties, I moved to Western Australia to play semi-professional rugby in the coastal suburb of Cottesloe. It was through the club I met a French stonemason and learned the ropes. That led me to setting up my own landscape construction business alongside a friend and carpenter. We grew it into a successful business, but in 2011, after 15 years, it was time for me to come home. The shift got me thinking about how long I wanted to stay on the tools, and after chatting with my good friend Stephen Shale – a Bayleys auctioneer who was then manager of Bayleys Waikato – I was motivated to follow my passion into property, where I’m proud to say I’ve been for nine years.

I also couldn’t do it all without my personal assistant, Corinne Littlejohn. You need to work as a team and she’s my backbone.

On weekdays, you can find me heading up the Mount with my phone torch at dusk. In the weekends, between open homes, I get down to the beach with the kids and out on my surfboard whenever I can. That’s the thing about living here – you can have a busy day, but the minute you head up the Mount or hit the sand, it all just washes away.

Hot Hawke’s Bay

WORDS KSENIIA SPODYNEIKO PHOTOS ALEX SPODYNEIKO

Heat, wine and art deco parties. Welcome to Hawke's Bay

WINE AND DINE

World-famous wineries are obviously a big drawcard. You can cycle your way round the wineries (bikeabouttours.co.nz) which could end up being challenging if you over-indulge on the way round! If you're tempted to indulge, the cosy boutique Wineries Ride through. But if tipsy bike balancing is not the way you imagined your perfect vacation, focus on the “three whales” of local vineyards to skim the cream off the best Hawke’s Bay has to offer.

Mission Estate is definitely the first check point for any tourist. The oldest winery in New Zealand is located 20 minutes away from Napier – quite hard not to call on the way to the other sights. Outdoor lunches are adorable here! Pretty much the way you would imagine them to be in the year 1851, when the winery was established. Elegant architecture, muted talks, inspiring views and fantastic food. Leaving this place without giving local cheeses platter a try is a crime. Creamy blue “Kapiti Kikorangi” itself is worth $32, but this price also includes two more sorts and a bunch of fruits, jams and crackers. 

The other must-sees are Craggy Range (voted Best New World Winery) and Elephant Hill. Two “sisters” where built by the same architect and share the same standards of producing the best wine ever. Though skipping any of these would be a mistake. Surrounded by the epic mountains Craggy Range celebrates all things French – from cuisine to the architecture and landscapes. Whereas family-owned Elephant Hill belongs to Germans – determined and precise people focused on high technologies and outstanding presentation. Just ask for their iconic Airavata Syrah degustation ($120 per bottle while the degustation is only $5) and be ready to watch the show.

WHAT TO SEE

To feel the vibes of the festive Hawke’s Bay start with exploring its gem – Napier. The best way to discover this city is obviously by vintage car. Because where else if not in the world’s Art Deco capital? Either rent a lovely Hooters’ open top next to the Masonic Hotel or book one of the perfectly polished Art Deco Trust cars around the corner. Tere Morales-Probert from the latest is the guide to die for. 45 minutes in one car with her and you are ready to move here immediately – impossible to resist her jokes, positive attitude and touching love to Napier.

After the tour around the city and aesthetically beautiful lunch at Mission Estate head towards Havelock North – quiet small town right next to the picturesque Te Mata Peak. But no more city life for today! Time for some tough outdoor calories burning. Leave the car by the main entrance – only you, your big water bottle and spectacular surroundings are ahead. The 5 km hiking trail across Te Mata is challenging, but definitely worth the sweat. Just imagine yourself balancing on a narrow path at the very top of the mountain chain – scorched by the sun valleys on both sides, wind in your hair and Giant Redwoods at your feet. Welcome to the Real Middle Earth! The only thing ruining the euphoria of conquering the top is a steady roadway right to the peak. Honestly, how dare all those people distract you from this workout by passing by in their air conditioned 4x4? 

But nothing on Earth can ever compare with an adventure of getting to the famous Cape Kidnappers on a 1949 tractor! Sure, you’ve heard the story about the Tahitian boy, kidnapped by local Maori from the Captain Cook’s ship. Yes, that is that place! No one kidnaps people here anymore, on the contrary, they come willingly to see the world’s largest accessible Gannet Colony. There are several ways to get to the beautiful birds, starting from the 9 km walk along the beach – definitely not the most pleasant option! Mind the way back as well. Whereas comfy and fun trip with Gannet Beach Adventures is. Those guys use huge vintage tractors to bring people right to the bottom of Cape Kidnappers. As if the trip on the machines like that wasn’t epic enough itself, tractors are driven into the ocean or up the massive stones to make adrenaline rush through your veins. Guides tell interesting stories about this unique place and make jokes after jokes. Though the one about four million dollars made by one of the guides looked not quite as a joke! And he is divorced by the way. Just saying…

WHERE TO STAY

Hawke’s Bay is all about atmosphere and the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier is 100% the perfect place to dive into it from the very first second. Located in one of the rare buildings not ruined by the 1931 earthquake, this hotel is insane.

Just imagine, they still keep the secret underground bar, operated during the years when alcohol was prohibited! Bar counter, graffiti, chairs – everything is left as if it was abandoned only yesterday. Though, guests are not allowed to come down these days. 

Many other things are preserved here right as they were made a century ago: massive staircases, tiny doors (how slim and short people used to be!), old-fashioned chandeliers and mirrors. So you literally live in history.

The most exciting part about this hotel? Not a single room is like another! Makes every of your 46 trips to Hawke’s Bay pretty special, huh? That is exactly how many rooms they have.

Masonic Hotel can easily be called the city’s centre of gravity – no matter if you’re in search for the Six Sisters houses, returning from the jazz concert, or just feel like buying a scoop of real fruit ice cream from the nearest shop – you will always end up nearby the hotel. Isn’t it just convenient?

UNO Staycation: Rotorua

We wanted a weekend away with our children; an antidote to screen time: adventure, laughing, and fun. And we didn’t want to spend ages travelling. So we took a staycation in Rotorua! The money we saved on travel (just an hour down the road) and accommodation (we didn't need any, we slept at home!), we spent on experiences. It was a decision well made.

There must be something in that Vegas air, everyone working in this booming tourist industry was friendly and knowledgeable, and they all genuinely love their jobs.

We were a fairly big group: Mat, his mum (love you, Susie!) and I, our five children and a young nephew. The children ranged from four up to 13, so adrenaline was the order of the day. And that's what we got!

Saturday am: Up the Skyline Gondola and down the luge. I'm a wimp so doubled up with my daughter and took the slower of the three routes down through the trees.

Saturday lunch: A hearty lunch at the iconic Pig & Whistle refuelled the whole team, ready to go again.

Saturday pm: Agroventures is home to six adrenaline-fuelled rides. Our big children found soaking the youngsters on the Agrojet he most amusing activity!

We drove back home to The Mount, had a huge dinner and fell asleep almost immediately. Up early on Sunday morning and a short drive back to the Rotorua thanks to that brilliant toll road round Te Puke.

Sunday am: This was my favourite: sloshing around in warm water inside an inflatable rolling ball at OGO. Our stomach muscles ached from giggling.

Sunday afternoon: After all that action, the Polynesian Spa was a great choice. We loved the new Priest Spring acidic mineral hot pool overlooking the steamy lake.

A debrief and afternoon tea at the country's café of the year, Capers, rounded off our weekend just perfectly.

#UNOLovesRotorua

The itinerary:

Saturday

Morning: Up the Skyline gondola and down the luge

Lunch: Pig & Whistle

Afternoon: Agroventures

Sunday

Morning: OGO

Lunch: I took a picnic

Afternoon: Polynesian Spa, followed by afternoon tea at Capers

Cam’s camera roll

UNO’s cover story photographer and writer, Cam Neate, shares some favourite pics from his roll for the EVES Photo Feature.

@camneate

Go to town

It’s not all ancient history at Tauranga’s Historic Village. In fact, there’s a world of contemporary pleasures to get amongst.

WORDS Kate Underwood PHOTOS Salina Galvan

At the foot of 17th Avenue West is a village where makers, bakers, creatives and community organisations come together to offer a unique heritage destination amid original and replica early-Tauranga buildings. The grounds are open seven days a week and entry is free, so gather the crew for a nostalgic excursion to explore and meet the locals. Here are a few you could encounter…

The Whipped Baker

Fuel a wander of the old-timey streets at The Whipped Baker, where you’ll be greeted with a feast for the eyes as well as your stomach, with an array of treats including generous cream donuts, steak and cheese pies, raw salads and ‘freaking good’ shakes. Initially a humble bakery stall founded by Fran and Aaron Cooper at the Tauranga Farmers’ Market in 2006, by 2016 The Whipped Baker had a permanent corner site in the heart of the Historic Village, complete with plenty of local Little Drum coffee to perk up visitors and neighbours. They also have a catering service that offers antipasto platters and birthday cakes for all your party needs.

THEWHIPPEDBAKER

White Silk Bridal Couture

At White Silk Bridal Couture, you’ll find a timeless collection of elegant silk and lace-laden wedding gowns. Each piece is hand-crafted here by lead designer Nicky Hayward, who prides herself on creating a seamless and enjoyable experience for all her brides. Everything is made to measure and of the highest quality befitting of such a significant day. Whether you’re a bride or not, it’s worth popping into this whimsical sanctuary to lust over the Swarovski jewels.

WHITESILKBRIDAL.COM

Imprint Gallery 

Imprint Gallery celebrates original, diverse and affordable prints from local and national artists. Co-owner Jackie Knotts is a printmaker who specialises in linocut relief printing, while painter Stella Clark has her studio base at the gallery and works with fine-art prints called giclée created on high-quality cotton rag paper. Both are deeply passionate about the intricate nature of printmaking and love chatting to visitors about the techniques involved. 

IMPRINTGALLERY.ART

The Makers 

If you’ve enjoyed Tauranga’s Oktoberfest, Gincredible or Night Owl Cinema, you have The Makers to thank. Amy Kemeys and Becks Clarke are the dynamic and resourceful duo behind the multi-faceted project and event company, based at the Historic Village. With 25 years of experience, they believe in the power of gathering together and can turn any idea into an engaging occasion, whether a private theatre screening, a corporate party or a boutique culinary celebration.

WEARETHEMAKERS.CO.NZ

Leadlight Expressions

Lynn and Steve Sinclair are the masterminds at Leadlight Expressions, purveyors of beautiful fused leadlight and stained-glass creations. Part of the village since 2003, they design, manufacture and repair everything leadlight, from commissions for private homes to restorations for churches, including Tauranga’s Holy Trinity. No design is repeated, the couple working with each of their clients to transform simple sketches into stained or textured-glass form. As well as selling made-to-order jewellery and more, they host monthly workshops at which you can craft an exquisite piece of your own. 

LEADLIGHTEXPRESS.CO.NZ

HISTORICVILLAGE.CO.NZ

Hamilton through the Insta-lens: the most snappable spots in the city

Modern-day travels are not only about new places, people or flavours anymore. Perfect Instagram pictures are playing the leading role. Not a problem in Hamilton – probably the most Insta-suitable city in the area.  

WORDS Kseniia Spodyneiko PHOTOS Alex Spodyneiko

#TeaWithAView

To start this one-day photo-hunt in the Waikato region, we drove extra 10 km from Hamilton – directly to the hidden in between the fields and farms aristocratic Zealong Tea Estate. From the spacious black-and-white shop to the traditional high tea ceremony - this place is all about sophistication. 

Even its story is extraordinary: 11 years ago local tea lover Vincent went to Asia and selected 1,500 cuttings to start tea growing in New Zealand. Little did he know about the upcoming challenges! After the long quarantine only 130 plants survived! Those were the strongest and the best ones. The ones that quickly turned Vincent’s small garden into a 1 million sprouts organic plantation. 

And by “organic” they mean certified world’s highest food safety standards. Literally, they are not even allowed to spray the grass. At Zealong they hire people to get rid of bags manually instead! And I thought having a personal Whittaker’s flavour “Waikato Grown Oolong Tea in Dark Chocolate” was already cool enough…

We were lucky to be guided around by the amazing Annalese Webber. Currently the administrator, she started her career as a waitress in Zealong café, where she still makes traditional tea ceremonies for guests. And that is a must! Followed by a high tea on the terrace with an epic view over the plantation, this process is simply hypnotizing. 

Talking about the views – grab the cutest cupcake from a traditional British three-tiered tea plate and proceed to the small lookout nearby. Strike a pose and be ready to wake up famous. 

#NeverStopExploring

Hamilton Gardens are yet another place not to be missed. After all, what else if not all those colourful flowers are the reason for the nowadays photo hysteria? 

The famous local sight is a tricky labyrinth of traditional for different countries and centuries gardens. Dive into the Italian Renaissance for the impressive geometry and symmetry. Japanese corner surprises with its picturesque pond. Sustainable Backyard brings in a touch of coziness and childhood memories. And the authenticity of the Indian Char Bagh can confuse even the most experienced travellers (the best perspective is at the corner to the left from the entrance).

In the second half of the exciting walk you will bump into the Tudor Garden that truly steals the show! Epic stone tower, beasts’ sculptures, recognisable green and white stripes (thank you Jonathan Rhys Meyers for turning us into the Tudor experts) – perfect spot! Stay on the balcony to capture the fantasy atmosphere of this place in its best angles.

#Foodporn

When it comes to food, nothing can go wrong in Hamilton. This city is famous for vibrant interesting restaurants. Overlooking the beautiful Waikato River is the popular Gothenburg with its fancy tapas menu. Crispi potato gnocchi with blue cheese, walnuts and pear are a win-win: delicious and beautifully plated. By the way, this place is known for the best view over the river. You got the idea.

For a less pretentious lunch head to Mexico or Iguana. Located right across each other on Victoria Street, they can turn the decision-making into a nightmare. Softshell tacos with achiote plancha pork belly in apple chutney or a seasonal pizza with coffee-rubbed venison and smoked mozzarella on a plum sauce base? Both, please.

No matter what your choice is, make sure you leave room for dessert. Duck Island Ice Cream (300a Grey Street) is organic, made in-store and is literally the best ice-cream ever! Will trade my left hand for an extra scoop of that Maple, Honeycomb and Smoked Almond calorie bomb. And they have 17 more outstanding flavours. Rhubarb Szechuan Peppercorn, anyone?

Iguana Restaurant

#SkyIsTheLimit

The rest of the day we spent admiring Zuru Nightglow. Annual hot air balloons show is the part of the weekly Balloons over Waikato festival. This event is huge – Zuru Nightglow alone is said to be visited by 80 000 people! 

At 8 pm enormous balloons in shapes of hugging birds, cartoon helicopters and rockets start to, well, glow following the rhythm of the popular hits. Culmination comes with the fireworks. As beautiful as hard to capture! You simply can’t beat thousands of people photobombing your pics.

But there is always a second chance for someone fascinated by the hot air balloons in Hamilton. During the summer season they fly over the city every morning. 

#RealLife

(Things to do in Hamilton for those not addicted to Instagram):

Te Aroha Mineral Spa

Fed by the world’s only hot soda geyser, this spa offers private wooden tubs and relaxing beauty treatments by Mount Te Aroha. 

The Base

The largest shopping centre in New Zealand is definitely worth a visit. Loved by beauty moguls for The Body Shop, Lush and L’Occitane all in one place.

Waikato Museum

Dinosaurs, Tourism posters, Milk production – Waikato Museum exhibitions are anything but boring.

The Global Kitchen recipe: Roasted lamb rump with pea purée

London restaurateur Lloyd Rooney and Kiwi partner Mike Fraser are known for producing innovative seasonal menus and have earned a reputation locally and on the international culinary stage. Global Kitchen cookbook includes favourites from the restaurants’ head chefs hailing from Brazil, India and New Zealand, creatively merging South Pacific, Asian, South American and European cuisine.

PHOTO GRANT ROONEY

Lamb
6 x 200g lamb rump (cap on)
50ml canola oil
800g baby potatoes
2 Tbsp dukkah
Salt and pepper to taste 

Pea puree
500g frozen peas
200g butter 

Salad
200g frozen peas
2 long red chillies
1 small red onion
1 bunch of mint
1 bunch of parsley
50g feta cheese
100ml The Quay vinaigrette 

Preheat an oven to 200°C. Rub lamb with salt, pepper and canola oil. Heat oil in heavy-based fry-pan over medium heat. Place lamb fat-side down and keep moving and pressing frequently for about 10-12 minutes. Once the fat is fully rendered, transfer rumps to an ovenproof dish to roast for 8-10 minutes. Remove from heat and rest for 10 minutes. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil, add the peas and boil for 3 minutes. Strain peas and combine with butter in a mixer. Blend until smooth and season well. Finely chop salad ingredients and toss in vinaigrette. 

SERVES 4 

For more recipes like this, check out Global Kitchen by Lindy Davis, or book your own experience and buy the book at: FIREATTHEMOUNT.CO.NZ | NO8MOUNT.CO.NZ

Father + Son: Tim and Finn Rainger

Both freelance writers, father and son team Tim and Finn Rainger talk about their relationship.

FINN RAINGER: SON ON FATHER

My Dad, or Munter as I more frequently call him, is far from your average human being. He’s a self-described outsider with an affinity for the strange. Surfing, he reckons, brought purpose into his life as an alienated and vexed youth. The memory of my first proper wave, aged 16, at Taupo Bay with him hooting from the beach, drifts into my consciousness every so often. “No wife, no career, no mortgage – it is not a lifestyle that many live, and thank fuck for that,” he stated during lunch recently. I admire his resolve in pursuing a lifestyle that suits him.

This year I indulged our shared obsession for chasing waves by joining him for the season in Indonesia, where he has spent the last four years away from the New Zealand winter. We have many similarities: a psychotic tendency to twirl strands of our hair when concentrating, and a passion for reading, writing, and taking photos. One of my earliest memories is sitting in the passenger seat of his van in Cornwall, England, probably on the way home from the beach, with Sublime playing loudly and smoke billowing out the window.

Like the surf, Dad can be fickle and stubborn, and hard to contact, but when you do have his attention he usually brings something to the table, whether it’s a plan, story idea, or advice on the age-old question of what is the point? He is adept at putting life into perspective, and it was his advice combined with my Mum’s that convinced me to take a job working as a reporter for the Gisborne Herald in 2015.

His capacity to impart advice and wisdom to people who want to hear it, as well as those who do not, earned him the nickname “The Sheriff” from the Canngu, Bali, locals. He patrols the line-up in the water, always on the lookout for a snake (someone who commits the cardinal sin of paddling inside other surfers and not waiting their turn for a wave), and does not shy from the confrontation that ensues (never violent in my experience).

The nickname is applicable on land, as he has a sharp moral compass that he willingly extends beyond his own periphery. A group of European “hipsters,” as he labelled them, were drinking and listening to dodgy music at around 10pm at our homestay in Canngu and around 10pm at our homestay in Canngu and Dad, wanting to sleep, got out of bed with a grim smile on his face and headed over to sort them out. “This is a homestay. There are plenty of places to party in Canngu without keeping me awake. Live and let live!” They were not happy and got a few digs in, “This is what happens in Canngu now. It’s not the 70s anymore old man.” But he had a point, and they vacated the premises soon after, honking the horns on their scooters as they hooned down the driveway.

All those hours spent battling his two brothers at home, and bullies at Auckland’s Kings College have toughened his edges and he can be an intimidating, yet compelling character. Dad’s a softy at heart though, and has a tender spot for the underdogs of life. A couple of German girls recently told him that if he were to write a story on his life, they would read it. Me too - if I hadn’t heard most of it already.

---

TIM RAINGER: FATHER ON SON

To commit to print my thoughts and feelings for my son is hard. Relationships are so fluid and print is pretty final. Every word scrutinised for each subtle nuance. Plus I’m sharing a room with him as I write this; we have been for eight weeks. Surfing together every day, eating, drinking, hanging out. There is no luxury of distance. But here we go.

Let’s start with the bigger picture. We are more like an older and a younger brother than most fathers and sons. Most of the time. There are obviously moments when I have to lay down an ultimatum but they’re pretty rare. Ever since he did a milk-puke down a cold Kronenberg I was drinking (without me noticing), and which I subsequently gagged on, I’ve cut him a bit of slack. He’s always been quite determined to do stuff by himself, and certainly never wanted my advice.

When he was about two, his mum was on the phone so he flipped over a bucket, got up on the bench and merrily began chopping potatoes, which apparently was going fine until it wasn’t. By the time I got there to take him to hospital, there was blood sprayed all round the kitchen walls. He’s very close to his mum and his young brother, as well as his step-dad and all their extended family. There is a sixteen-year age gap between him and his little bro, and it’s funny observing how their patterns of behaviour mirror ours. At times he parents him hard, and others they josh around and have lots of fun.

He’s always loved reading and music, and especially loved being read to as a kid. “One more story dad!” was a line I heard a lot. It’s a great pleasure now, sharing books and bands, picking the guts out of movies and so on.

We’ve done a lot of surfing together since the beginning and it’s been a great thing for our relationship. Setting the clock. Getting up in the dark. Trading waves. It’s our mutual happy place. It’s our second season in Indo; this time we’re here for 6 months, and that’s a lot of time living cheek by jowl.

A few people raise their eyebrows when we tell them what we’re up to, like I’m being irresponsible letting my kid quit his job and spend all his savings on a surf trip. My take is: well, he’s qualified, and he works for his own dough, saving for a year to get here. And now he’s really focused on surfing hard, doing yoga, eating well. This is an experience that will shape him physically and mentally in really positive ways, and is one he’ll never forget.

He’s a good kid. I’m proud of him. And I like hanging out with him. Most of the time.