Start anew
Cashmore Clinic’s Leanne Cashmore on a treatment that can help you gain a firmer foundation.
Cashmore Clinic’s Leanne Cashmore on a treatment that can help you gain a firmer foundation.
photo Salina Galvan
At the Clinical Aesthetics Symposium I attended in Auckland recently, the talk was firmly focused on skin treatments. There wasn’t a single presentation on botulinum toxin and not much at all about dermal fillers.
So many new and exciting treatments and applications have arrived in New Zealand, making the Australian injectors very envious, as many of them are not yet available there.
Getting things across the line in Australia is more difficult than it is here, so we get to benefit from them a good couple of years before our trans-Tasman counterparts do.
I want to talk about the RF microneedling device that was a hot topic of discussion at the symposium. We’ve had such a device at the Cashmore Clinic for a couple of years now and it’d have to be one of our favourite skin treatments. ‘RF’ stands for ‘radio frequency’.
The treatment is designed to remodel collagen from the inside out and is used for scars, sun damage, wrinkles, stretch marks, pores and improving overall skin quality.
The radio frequency (heat) delivers controlled energy at various depths (via the needles) depending on what we’re treating, to tighten the skin and promote the production of collagen and elastin. It can penetrate deeply to give much better results than your standard needling, which treats only the superficial layers of the skin.
We recommend having RF needling in winter (because avoiding sun exposure is advised post-treatment) and scheduling a series of sessions for optimal results. The treatment takes around an hour. A strong anesthetic cream is applied to the skin and left to take effect, then the needling itself lasts for around 20 minutes. Your skin will be only mildly pink when you leave the clinic, and you can apply make-up and follow your normal routine the next day. Four weeks later, you’ll have a second treatment, then a third treatment a month after that. Three is the minimum we recommend; four to six is even better.
Before and after RF needling.
With RF needling, skin continues to improve for three months after your final treatment. You also have the option to have topical growth factors infused immediately afterwards, such as PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma), where your own blood is separated into red blood cells and plasma, and the plasma (which is full of goodness that further enhances luminosity and improves skin texture) is infused into your skin.
The latest technology to infuse is exosomes. They pack even more of a punch than PRP and are more predictable. Extracted from young human adipose (fat) tissue, this is cutting-edge technology and a good option for hair restoration as well. They’re another whole topic, so I’ll go into it in more detail in a future issue.
People often want a quick fix, like that achieved by botulinum toxin and fillers, but remember, we also need a good canvas to work from. RF needling has limitations. It isn't a face lift, it’s a skin treatment. A full consultation will help us determine if it’s the right procedure for you.
Expert Constance Santos on your skin’s natural barrier
Little good can come of cosmetic treatments if your skin’s natural barrier isn’t functioning well, says our expert Constance of Mt Maunganui’s Epidermis & Sage. Here’s how to get yours sussed.
Little good can come of cosmetic treatments if your skin’s natural barrier isn’t functioning well, says our expert Constance of Mt Maunganui’s Epidermis & Sage. Here’s how to get yours sussed.
Your skin has a protective barrier that functions to keep good things in and bad things out, such as bacteria and pollution. It’s made up of skin cells, and oils like fats, ceramides and omegas. That barrier is sometimes called the lipid layer or acid mantle.
Keeping your skin barrier healthy is vital for good skin health and optimal function. There are lots of things that can impair its function such as poor product usage, environmental factors and diet. An impaired function can lead to chronic skin conditions. Dermatitis, eczema and acne as well as dry, irritated skin are often the signs of a poor barrier function, as is skin that ages rapidly.
There are some fantastic beauty treatments out there – including needling, microdermabrasion and peels – but if your skin’s barrier isn’t healthy, you won’t get the benefit from them. It all comes down to your skin’s ability to make good, healthy, organised collagen. Most of these treatments work by stimulating a healing response, which produces healthy collagen through the controlled creation of a wound that sends the skin into repair mode. If your skin’s barrier is already impaired, you don’t want to add extra inflammation to the mix. Your skin is already concentrating on repairing itself and it can only do so much, so when it’s overwhelmed with an inflammatory response, activities like collagen production become a lesser priority.
How do you ensure your skin has a well- functioning barrier? It needs to stay in balance. For example, make sure you are having enough Omega-3 in your diet. If you aren’t getting enough, it’ll show on your skin. Another simple way of repairing an impaired barrier is to use a great cleanser (I recommend the Roccoco Botanicals Pore Cleansing Oil or Roccoco Botanicals Soothing Cleansing Oil) that works to restore balance to the barrier function.
Don’t forget, though, everything’s connected. What you eat and drink also affects your skin and gut, which makes taking essential fatty acids (EFAs) effective too (I recommend Pure Encapsulations EFA Essentials). Doing so will nourish your skin from the inside, and they’re anti-inflammatory as well. As I said, balance is important. Omega-3 is the best EFA for the skin. Omega-6 and Omega-9 also have good benefits, but too much Omega-6 can actually be inflammatory, so it’s best to talk to a skin therapist and get the right blend and dose for you.