A new era

Registered nurse Leanne Cashmore from the Cashmore Clinic has more than 26 years' experience in women’s skincare. Here she takes us through the challenges that menopause can have on skin, and what we can do to combat them. 

Menopause can have a dramatic effect on the skin. Without hormones, our aging accelerates by around 30 percent. Because our skin is so visible, being the largest organ on the body, it is one of the areas we first notice the most rapid changes. 

Often people tell me they feel like it happened overnight. One of the reasons for this is that oestrogen receptors are very abundant around the face and the decline of oestrogen is part and parcel of menopause.

Tell-tale signs can include thinning skin, wrinkles, skin laxity and dry skin, as well as hair loss, thinning of the hair and hirsutism (abnormal hair growth in women on the face).

The best way to treat perimenopausal and menopausal skin is to find a good skin therapist, and make sure it’s someone you can trust. Take a hormone replacement if your doctor recommends it for you, too.

There are many cosmetic options these days, including amazing bio stimulator hyaluronic acid dermal fillers that promote hydration. This involves basically injecting moisturiser into the skin and stimulating your own collagen by way of regular needling appointments. 

Needling helps with tightening and minimising the visibility of fine lines, and it has been scientifically proven. So if you don't already do it, start now! The latest technology, Secret RF radio frequency needling, uses heat to tighten the skin and needling to cause collagenesis.

Peels and resurfacing treatments brighten the skin and diminishes
pigment and irregularities.

Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) is another way to promote collagen. Your own blood is full of growth factors that can be injected or infused into the skin, to produce collagen for fine lines and thinning skin.

Low-level light therapy promotes skin rejuvenation by stimulating
collagen production.

Outside of the clinic, it’s a good idea to consistently stick to a skincare regime which includes lots of hydrating serums and moisturisers. Never use soap. Use a cleanser that is suitable for your skin and try to use a mild cleanser at night, which will allow serums and moisturisers to absorb.

Use an SPF daily, take oral supplements such as zinc and collagen powder, and adhere to a healthy diet while getting plenty of sleep and limiting alcohol and sugar. All these combined will have an amazing effect on the skin.

You can get away with ignoring these health principles when you're younger, but it's impossible after 40.

Treating your skin is a journey. It's maintenance that is no different to maintaining a car or a house. It’s no different to colouring your hair or
whitening your teeth. It's a commitment, and the changes don't happen overnight. If you’re considering using botox or fillers, a good canvas to work with is important.

We have to remember it has taken years to get our skin to get to where it is today, and it's going to take some time and patience to bring it back to life. But it's never too late. Small changes over a course of time make big changes to your confidence when you see the results.

Visit Leanne at Cashmore Clinic and have your skin analysed with the latest technology, Observ 520, or simply get some skincare advice. 

cashmoreclinic.co.nz

Clean slate

An all-new beauty treatment proves you don’t have to suck it up when it comes to general skin problems, but it helps to know the HydraFacial can do just that.

Words Hayley Barnett / Photos Salina Galvan + supplied

If you spend any amount of time on social media, or read magazines or beauty blogs, there’s a good chance you’ve come across the much-hyped HydraFacial. It’s being recommended by everyone from well-respected dermatologists, to highly-influential celebrities like Kate Winslet. Being the first in the Bay to offer the HydraFacial, it wasn’t hard for Constance Santos from Epidermis & Sage to convince me to give it a try.

Walking into the treatment room I was met with a large machine that looks like it belongs in a surgery, which is slightly intimidating when you think you’re there for a facial. Fittingly, the person who invented it is a plastic surgeon who wanted to offer clients with all skin types the opportunity to extract impurities from their skin, with a more gentle treatment, compared to, say, microdermabrasion procedures. And the tagline, '3 steps. 30 minutes. The best skin of your life', sounds promising. 

The reason the machine is so big is because it has three main functions – firstly to cleanse and peel, with gentle exfoliation and resurfacing; secondly to extract and hydrate, with painless suction and nourishing moisturisers; and lastly to fuse and protect with antioxidants and peptides. To do this, it uses a patented Vortex-Fusion delivery system, or what I would describe as a sucky pen thing attached to a machine by a clear tube, extracting debris from your pores. You can literally see the gunk being sucked out of your face as the pen glides across your skin like a deep-cleaning, moisturising vacuum cleaner.

“So it’s a vacuum for your face?” I asked. “Uh, yes,” came the reply, accompanied by a sideways glance. My very scientific description was confirmed when Constance held up a large, clear container full of liquid with a whole lot of small, black floaties – my blackheads. It’s safe to say a whole lot of gunk was removed from my skin, which was embarrassing yet satisfying. Add to that, my face felt naked, but also like it was breathing for the first time. 

The whole experience was much more relaxing than it sounds. The procedure is completely painless, and Constance says it combats any skin problem – from pigmentation to acne. But it's also suitable as a regular cleanse. She recommended I have it done once a month, to keep my skin clean and clear, but the frequency depends on your skin type. Oily skin, for example, may need a couple of treatments within one to two weeks of each other, before moving to monthly. 

A few weeks later, my skin still feels clean and naked without my usual blackheads filling my now-empty pores. I might try to stretch it out to every six weeks, but rest assured that I’ll certainly be back for more. 

epidermissage.nz

Expert Constance Santos on your skin’s natural barrier

Little good can come of cosmetic treatments if your skin’s natural barrier isn’t functioning well, says our expert Constance of Mt Maunganui’s Epidermis & Sage. Here’s how to get yours sussed.

Your skin has a protective barrier that functions to keep good things in and bad things out, such as bacteria and pollution. It’s made up of skin cells, and oils like fats, ceramides and omegas. That barrier is sometimes called the lipid layer or acid mantle.

Keeping your skin barrier healthy is vital for good skin health and optimal function. There are lots of things that can impair its function such as poor product usage, environmental factors and diet. An impaired function can lead to chronic skin conditions. Dermatitis, eczema and acne as well as dry, irritated skin are often the signs of a poor barrier function, as is skin that ages rapidly.

There are some fantastic beauty treatments out there – including needling, microdermabrasion and peels – but if your skin’s barrier isn’t healthy, you won’t get the benefit from them. It all comes down to your skin’s ability to make good, healthy, organised collagen. Most of these treatments work by stimulating a healing response, which produces healthy collagen through the controlled creation of a wound that sends the skin into repair mode. If your skin’s barrier is already impaired, you don’t want to add extra inflammation to the mix. Your skin is already concentrating on repairing itself and it can only do so much, so when it’s overwhelmed with an inflammatory response, activities like collagen production become a lesser priority.

How do you ensure your skin has a well- functioning barrier? It needs to stay in balance. For example, make sure you are having enough Omega-3 in your diet. If you aren’t getting enough, it’ll show on your skin. Another simple way of repairing an impaired barrier is to use a great cleanser (I recommend the Roccoco Botanicals Pore Cleansing Oil or Roccoco Botanicals Soothing Cleansing Oil) that works to restore balance to the barrier function.

Don’t forget, though, everything’s connected. What you eat and drink also affects your skin and gut, which makes taking essential fatty acids (EFAs) effective too (I recommend Pure Encapsulations EFA Essentials). Doing so will nourish your skin from the inside, and they’re anti-inflammatory as well. As I said, balance is important. Omega-3 is the best EFA for the skin. Omega-6 and Omega-9 also have good benefits, but too much Omega-6 can actually be inflammatory, so it’s best to talk to a skin therapist and get the right blend and dose for you.

EPIDERMISSAGE.NZ

The skin and within: Constance Santos of Epidermis and Sage shares her holistic approach to beauty

UNO’s beauty editor Lisa Shea catches up with Constance Santos of Epidermis & Sage, who takes a holistic approach.

Sitting down with skin therapist Constance Santos in her beautiful new space in Mt Maunganui, I could tell from her carefully selected products that she has a real passion for all things skin. The clinic is clean and calm with a contemporary, comfortable feel, and I couldn’t wait to find out what’s behind it all.

LISA: How did you decide the name Epidermis & Sage?

CONSTANCE: I wanted a name that represents the way I believe in treating the skin, using more natural products and holistic methods combined with science. The epidermis is the area of the skin that we treat the most and where lots of important skin cells live, so that’s the science part of the name. As a herb, the “sage” part relates to the natural side of my business. Sage is a cleansing herb and I felt like it symbolised a new beginning for me and for my business.

What makes you different?

At Epidermis & Sage, we treat the skin quite differently to a lot of traditional methods. In my career, I’ve found that it’s never been enough to simply recommend products or treatments to clients, especially when you’re treating difficult skin conditions, as there’s often an internal trigger and it’s most likely gut-related. If you’re not treating the skin from within or trying to eliminate triggers from the inside, you’re not going to have much success with using products on the outside, so we combine both methods to get our amazing results. We also set up our clients with the knowledge and tools to continue on, even when they’re not seeing us. If they have an acne outbreak or an eczema outbreak, for example, they can look back and figure out what triggered it and address it themselves, and I think that’s important.

What can I expect in a consultation?

Our consultation process is extremely in-depth. There are so many things that can cause difficult skin conditions, so you need to find the triggers and go through medications and everything else with a fine-tooth comb. Our clients get a long form to fill out, then we get them in for a diagnostic Observ Skin Scan that gives us about 18 different views of the skin, including lipid levels, inflammation and pigmentation at different levels. All this allows us to treat the skin with absolute precision and means our clients can purchase the products we recommend or come in for a treatment knowing we already understand exactly what’s needed. Because a lot of skin problems come from stress, part of our method is making sure that we create a luxurious, pampering experience. Our clients get into a lovely, lush bed and receive their relaxing treatment.

Can you explain to me the importance of skin nutrition and how it’s different to general nutritional supplements?

People quite often have huge nutritional deficiencies – a big one that I harp on about is the common deficiency in essential fatty acids (EFAs). Your cells need EFAs to function properly, and when you don’t, you notice things like poor healing and chronic skin conditions such as eczema. We look at diet and address deficiencies, and bolster our results with supplements that aid in collagen production, for example. That’s also really important when addressing age-related skin concerns. Rather than blasting the skin with heat or over-peeling it, to rejuvenate skin, we like to focus on DNA repair and getting the skin functioning well. There’s no point trying to stimulate your skin with products and devices on the outside if your cells don’t have the right nutrition, so we really focus a lot on internal supplements and happily refer clients to some amazing holistic nutritionists in the area who we work closely with.

What products or equipment do you use in your treatments?

We use some high-tech devices. We have the Exceed medical microneedling device, which we use for our collagen induction; no one else has that device in this area. We also have the LED light Lutronic Healite, and using that kind of stronger, medical- grade equipment means our results are a lot better. What also makes us special is our expertise and continuous training – we’re always studying. We’re not about quick-fire or sticking-plaster treatments that mask the issue – we want our clients to see real changes in their skin that they can maintain permanently.

EPIDERMISSAGE.NZ

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Autumn’s top treatment:

Constance Santos of Epidermis & Sage recommends...

Microdermabrasion is the perfect autumn reset for the skin after a long summer of sun damage and endless sunscreen application. It clears away built-up skin cells, increases circulation, supports the skin’s natural lymphatic drainage, eradicates toxins and gets the skin in optimal condition to absorb skincare products.

It is a form of exfoliation that uses tiny crystals to slough away dead skin cells while a vacuum acts as a pump for the body’s lymphatic drainage process. The machine we use at Epidermis & Sage has fully disposable heads and allows us to customise treatments, monitoring the intensity so it’s used at a safe level for your skin. We can apply peels before the treatment to get a better result, and calming and hydrating masks afterwards when the skin is more accepting, so the product gets to where it’s needed most. The Healite LED is included in our more advanced microdermabrasion treatment and it not only calms the skin, but also simulates the fibroblasts to help the healing and anti-ageing process.

Come in for a consultation with our state-of-the- art Observ scanner, so we can see exactly what your needs are and create a bespoke treatment tailored specifically to you.

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Gimme some skin: UNO’s autumn hair and beauty favourites

Skin essentials

The Dynamic Detox Duo is the latest addition to the Osmosis Wellness collection. Two high-potency supplements designed to improve your internal health, they’ll help you achieve the best skin of your life - from the inside out.

Regenerate

Regenerate addresses your body’s internal filtration system - your liver. It accelerates liver repair and maintains optimal liver health with the perfect balance of bioavailable collagen, amino acids, fat-soluble vitamins and alpha-ketoglutarate (AKG).

Recovery

Recovery is a complete prebiotic blend of essential fatty acids including omega-7. Regular use supports whole-body health at a cellular level, restoring gut health, recovering the loss of facial fat-pad volume and providing additional liver support.

All the better

Just when we thought Osmosis Skincare’s best-selling, award-winning serum, Rescue, couldn’t get any better, they’ve added breakthrough ingredients to amplify its legendary repair capabilities.

Throw compromised skin a lifeline with this uniquely powerful serum proven to neutralize toxins, calm inflammation and activate epidermal wound and DNA repair to dramatically improve skin texture and age spots. Now it also improves radiance and protects skin from environmental stressors and blue light damage.

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Eye on the needle

Take a closer look at the latest treatment from Mt Maunganui’s Lucy Shalfoon-Roberts, aka The Skin Girl.

UNO: What do we need to know about NanoFusion?

LUCY: It’s a unique skin treatment that delivers amazing results, and unlike traditional needling, there’s no downtime. It creates nano-scale channels in the skin, improving the penetration and absorption rate of active ingredients. Along with massage and vibration, it promotes skin healing and collagen production to help you look rejuvenated and refreshed.

Who’s it suited to?

It’s great for all skin types, and can help with specific concerns such as pigmentation and acne.

Why is now a good time to do it?

This is a great autumn treatment because you don’t need to worry too much about preparing the skin ahead of time or avoiding the sun pre and post-treatment. Just swipe over a good-quality BB or mineral make-up afterwards and you’re away.

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Get your bounce back

UNO chatted with Sam Crapp of Shine Hair Co. about how we rehab our hair post-summer.

UNO: Why is my hair so dry after summer?

Sam: Our hair has a protective coating called the hydrolipidic layer and the summer months - with all the sun, salt water and chlorine can cause this coating to become depleted. This results in extreme colour fade, and dull, lifeless locks. Your hair will be crying out for moisture!

What can we do about it?

Wella’s new ColourMotion range with Wellaplex goes beyond anti-fading - with regular use it actually improves hair quality in three areas that are specifically important for coloured hair; colour protection, shine and hydration.

Don’t get mad, get even: say goodbye to patchy skin

PHOTO Alexander Krivitskiy

Skin looking a bit patchy post-summer? Never mind – Tauranga’s Skin Centre has an exclusive product formulated in-house to fix that, and practice nurse Georgie Herbison is here to tell us about it.

UNO: Georgie, what causes pigmentation and how can we prevent it?

GEORGIE HERBISON: Melanin in the skin acts as a defence mechanism, which is why people commonly get a tan where their skin is exposed to the sun. Hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin over-produces melanin, resulting in dark patches and an uneven look. Hormonal changes can cause hyperpigmentation, but the main cause is the sun, so it’s important to always wear sunscreen or, better still, cover up or stay indoors during the hottest time of day. 

UNO: Why has Skin Centre created this specialised pigmentation product, Complex K?

GEORGIE: So many patients come into the clinic distressed about their pigmentation, having tried different treatments and creams with no visible results. It’s great to be able to offer them our prescription-only product to use at home, knowing it’ll really work for them. 

UNO: What makes this cream so effective?

GEORGIE: Complex K is a sun damage and skin-lightening treatment. It contains components proven in multiple independent clinical trials to reverse the effects of excessive sun, including hydroquinone 4%, a pigment inhibitor that works by reducing the production of pigmentation and increasing the production of melanosomes in melanocytes by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is needed to make melanin. It also includes a mild topical hydrocortisone to prevent irritation, mixed with a vitamin A derivative (retinoid) that can reduce the ageing effects of the sun on our skin and stimulate collagen synthesis, while reversing photo damage and increasing the absorption and efficacy of the hydroquinone.

UNO: How should we use Complex K?

GEORGIE: This is a prescription treatment that your skin needs to adjust to slowly, so our clients use it alongside their own skincare products a few nights a week to start with, and gently increase from there.

UNO: What kinds of pigmentation is it effective on and what kinds of results do you see?

GEORGIE: We’ve had some very good results treating clients with general pigmentation and freckling, the hormonal pigmentation melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. They notice a definite lightening of the affected skin after using the cream for 12 weeks, and the overall skin texture is smoother.

UNO: Is Complex K complemented by treatments you use in the clinic? 

GEORGIE: It works well in conjunction with our Fraxel laser. The non-invasive Fraxel can reverse visible signs of ageing and damage, reducing pigmentation and evening out skin tone, and Complex K  helps to maintain these results.

UNO: Who would you recommend this product to?

GEORGIE: We’d recommend it to clients with darker skin, who have a higher chance of hyperpigmentation, or anyone who’s tried other treatments with poor results. It’s especially effective for people with melasma and is a great option for anyone who doesn’t want to use laser treatments and would prefer to use a cream at home.

SKINCENTRE.COM

Bakuchiol: the plant-based alternative to retinol is our new skincare hero

PHOTOS SUPPLIED 

Have you heard of bakuchiol? Pronounced “buh-koo-chee- all”, this plant-based skincare ingredient is a gentler alternative
to retinol that helps target the look of wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Compared to retinol, bakuchiol is better tolerated by skin, is mild enough to be used morning and night, is safe to use with other skincare ingredients and it’s vegan-friendly, too.

Bakuchiol is one of the three hero ingredients used in Arbonne’s new AgeWell range, a vegan skincare collection that embraces a holistic approach to skin ageing. Formulated using a range of dermatologist favourites, the trifecta of ingredients – bakuchiol, vitamin C, and plant stem cell extract – work together to deliver youthful-looking skin.

The second ingredient, vitamin C, supports collagen by providing the skin with moisture, but can’t be used at the same time as traditional retinol. However, vitamin C and bakuchiol are fine to use together, so you can get the benefit of both ingredients at once.

Sustainable plant stem cell extract is the third ingredient taking centre stage in the AgeWell range. Plant stem cell extract helps skin to look more vibrant and improve firmness, and it’s derived from natural origins but uses less water during production than traditional versions. This harmony of ingredients works to target visible signs of ageing without being harsh on skin.

COLLAGEN NURTURING SERUM WITH 2% BAKUCHIOL: Indulge your skin in this super-concentrated formula which helps reduce the look of facial wrinkles, along with stabilised vitamin C to help boost and maintain moisture by supporting collagen.

MOISTURE RESTORING CREAM WITH 0.5% BAKUCHIOL: This versatile moisturiser contains shea butter, avocado oil, coconut oil, and squalene complex to help replenish
the skin’s moisture barrier
and reduce the appearance
of fine lines.

MOISTURE RESTORING CREAM WITH 0.5% BAKUCHIOL: This versatile moisturiser contains shea butter, avocado oil, coconut oil, and squalene complex to help replenish
the skin’s moisture barrier
and reduce the appearance
of fine lines.

ARBONNE.COM