Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin

Ramping up

Shaun Boucher is an internationally acclaimed skateboarding champion who wants to help others become one too. And that includes you.

Shaun Boucher is an internationally acclaimed skateboarding champion who wants to help others become one too. And that includes you.

words Karl Puschmann | photos Katie Cox

“You could almost classify it as like a gladiator pit,” Shaun Boucher smiles. “There’s big grandstands, the energy’s high, the crowd’s cheering, people are clapping and you’re standing at the bottom.”

On this sunny morning at a café in Pāpāmoa, we’re not discussing mortal combat. Instead, Shaun’s describing the electric atmosphere of a skateboarding competition.

“You do your last run, they announce you’ve won and you hold your board up and everyone’s clapping… it’s hard to describe that feeling and how special it is.”

It may be hard to articulate but it’s a feeling the 31-year-old pro skateboarder knows well. The Mount Maunganui local has been competing at the highest level of skateboarding, both here and internationally, for over a decade. Ask him what competitions he’s won and he struggles to recall them all. 

“I’ve won the New Zealand Bowl skateboarding title about six times in
a row — potentially maybe seven. I won the New Zealand Park skateboarding championships about two years ago in Gisborne. I’ve won the Australian Bowl Riding championships and the Australian Street Skating championships,” he says. “Probably the biggest one was the
Dew Tour over in Long Beach in California, about four or five years ago. I’d been meaning to go back, but then COVID hit and the contests shut down.”

Shaun’s journey to become one of Aotearoa’s most celebrated skaters
has incredibly humble beginnings. And, funnily enough, doesn’t even
start on a skateboard.

“I was actually rollerblading. But my brother, his friends and my close friends were all skateboarding so I felt like I was the black sheep,” he grins. While they didn’t peer pressure him into trading the blades for a deck, they did subtly encourage him to give it a go.

“I’d go down to the Mount skateboard ramp and they slowly but surely brought their spare or old skateboard parts down until I had enough to eventually assemble a skateboard.”

Having cobbled his first skateboard together from these recycled parts
he quickly fell in love with the sport and the social aspect it provided.

“The big reason I got into skating was the freedom it gave me. It was a great form of transport and I could get everywhere,” he says. “And, I felt
like people could resonate with me. Skateboarding is like an identity as well.”

It soon consumed him. He not only hung up his rollerblades but also his rugby boots, preferring the challenge of constantly improving and bettering his abilities as opposed to competing against rival teams. 

“I grew up in the Bayfair Estate area and the skate park was right there.
So I used to skate before school, after school, and every weekend religiously,” he says. “I just lived down at the skate park.”

This, he says, is the secret to his success. It’s not supernatural talent or blessed good fortune, just good old-fashioned hard work.

“If you do want to get really good at something, you’ve got to put countless hours in. I wasn’t your naturally talented skateboarder. I struggled early on. However, hard work beats talent at the end of the day, if talent’s not ready to work hard. I channelled that mentality and started to develop my skills and get better and better.”

Now, he’s helping other people develop their skills. When he started skating there wasn’t any way to learn other than by doing. Over the years he’s watched people who had potential gradually lose interest in the sport after becoming discouraged at their lack of progress. He figured if they had proper guidance and instruction they’d flourish instead of feeling frustrated. So he decided to do something about it.

Having recently returned to the Mount after living in Australia’s Gold Coast for the past seven years he started Mana Skateboarding and began offering private and group skateboard lessons at the Mount Maunganui skate park. 

“I found it really profound when I came back. I was like, ‘I'll just start slow,’ and build up my clientele but I got swamped straight away.”

Then he laughs and says, “I was not expecting that.”

Right now he’s teaching kids as young as five through to teenagers. There’s even a bunch of parents reconnecting with their teenage pastime. 

“They see their kids doing it and see how much fun they're having and
they want to have that fun too. I feel like we're cultivating a community
down there.”

As well as teaching the fundamentals to beginners and pro techniques to more experienced skaters, Shaun also emphasises skating’s wider benefits.

“I teach the basics and get them enjoying the pure joys of what skating can bring to your life. It’s creative, builds confidence and gives people a sense of purpose.”

An unexpected offshoot is that teaching skating is also doing the same for him. 

“I definitely feel like I’ve stepped into that ‘teacher’ realm and like I’ve owned it,” he says. “That feeling of helping someone achieve something makes you feel so good. It’s inspiring and makes you want to do a better job the next day and be a better teacher and role model for these kids.”

Then he smiles and says, “I’m really enjoying it. I feel like it’s taking me on a pretty good journey.”  

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Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin

Head-long, head strong

Rotorua downhill mountain biking star Lachie Stevens-McNab is representing both his town and his nation on the world stage, carrying with him a whole lot of local knowledge, skill and support.

Rotorua downhill mountain biking star Lachie Stevens-McNab is representing both his town and his nation on the world stage, carrying with him a whole lot of local knowledge, skill and support.

WORDS + PHOTOS Jamie Troughton

Earlier this year, Lachie Stevens-McNab finished 32nd in the elite downhill semifinals of the UCI Mountain Bike World Series in Italy. He was just 0.614secs from making the final. That’s not the impressive part. Set in the Italian Alps, the Val di Sole track is known as the ‘Black Snake’; they say there’s venom waiting on every fang-like rock that racers have to bounce over. It’s one of the hardest courses on the circuit, with riders reaching 65km/h as they drop 550m in altitude over the 2.1km distance.

Let’s set the scene a little more. Not only were the rocks lethal-sharp, they were also slippery thanks to a misty rain, ready to send the slightest mistaken line straight into the trunk of one of the most densely-packed pines lining the trail. At this level and at these speeds, the margin between triumph and abject disaster is infinitesimal. This round would eventually see 14 of the world’s best 160 riders fail to even finish. 

Hang on – there’s more. Going into this season, the Union-sponsored rider had spent the best part of 18 months either injured or recovering. His 20-year-old frame was aching; he broke his back in 2022, while a lingering ankle injury suffered last year means he still struggles to run. Although he’d qualified 10th after the first run, in a small, dark corner of his brain is always the thought: ‘what if it all goes wrong?’.

And the punchline? Lachie Stevens-McNab completed all but the first 30-odd seconds of his 3mins 57.713secs semifinal run with no back brakes. He smashed his rear disc rotor just after the start, heading through the Trentino Rocks section, sending the pistons awry.

Anyone with even the slightest concept of physics should stop and think that through for a second. Most of us have been over the handle bars at least once in our lives but avoiding that fate, racing down a hazard-strewn mountain, making hundreds of split-second survival decisions, almost defies comprehension.

“To not have a back brake was so gnarly,” Lachie laconically muses. “I didn’t crash and got to the bottom but that was probably the hardest run I’ve ever done and there were definitely bits I should’ve stopped. It was so scary but I just kept going and tried to finish it.”

The Rotorua star has had much better results – a week earlier, he broke through for his first World Cup podium at the Austrian round in Salzburgerland, finishing third. A week before that, he was fastest on course in Poland, only to crash in his final run. And, as this edition went to press, the young tyro had just picked up his best elite world championship result in Andorra, the leading Kiwi in 16th spot.

But if we’re judged by our hardest battles rather than our finest, then his astonishing, headlong descent down a hill in the Dolomites is particularly revealing; the competitiveness, the desire, the unreasonable skill and the tenacity to keep going.

Those that have known the two-wheeled tyro for any length of time will just nod, sagely.

The eldest of three intrepid boys and the son of two dedicated parents, Lachie is, possibly above all, the product of an extraordinary environment. Halfway through his third year, there was the blonde tearaway caked in mud and diving into a soggy puddle at the bottom of the Skyline gondola in Rotorua, while the 2006 UCI World Mountain Biking Championships raged around him.

If ever there was an infusion of environment into character, this was it, as the sleepy geothermal town transformed into a genuine global mountain biking mecca.

So many things have shaped Rotorua into such an influential place for a young rider, starting with the volcanic, pumice-ridden terrain – they call it ‘aero-dirt’ – which drains rain so quickly and makes riding year-round so feasible. There are the sweeping hills funnelling into the town basin and, crucially, continued access granted by the iwi-owned forestry operation.

And then there’s the community. “We’ve been a real mountain bike town for a number of years, where most cars have a bike rack on the back or they’re utes with a pad over the tailgate,” long-time MTB enthusiast Dave Donaldson explains. “It's not down to any one individual – more a community that’s been inspired by the mountain biking lifestyle we’re lucky to enjoy – and it just gives me a warm feeling.”

The 73-year-old is a former president of the Rotorua Mountain Bike Club, a former policeman and former deputy mayor of Rotorua. With prodigious support from an enthusiastic committee and especially his wife Shreeve, he was a key figure in getting the world championships to Rotorua all those years ago.

“I’ve no doubt that event inspired a bunch of young locals, and Lachie
joins a long list of home-grown ambassadors for the sport here.” He points to current Rotorua-grown stars Tuhoto-Ariki Pene and Jenna Hastings, the likes of Louis Hamilton who, as an 11-year-old, was the ‘sweeper’ at the 2006 Worlds, and Tauranga-based former stars Jon Hume and Vanessa Quin.

BMX beginnings

Pretty soon after his 2006 mud exploits, Stevens-McNab was off on two wheels. Dad Steve – a veteran of the rafting and adventure sports industry – also loved a bit of motocross and as soon as his eldest ditched training wheels, he was fitted out on a 50cc Peewee motorbike. 

Coming back from a ride one day, the inseparable pair passed the Rotorua BMX club track and young Lachie was entranced. Soon, he was spending every available hour there.

Even sooner, his desire to win came shining through. By six, he was a BMX world champion. By 11, he’d won three world titles and three runner-ups. Younger brothers Wyatt and Stirling followed him into the sport and Lachie became great mates with Rico Bearman, who has just competed in BMX at the Paris Olympics.

“Every day after school, he’d be asking to go to the track or the forest and I used to have to say no, just to give him a rest from his bike. It was just mad,” mum Kylee Stevens recalls. “He and Rico really pushed each other growing up, and it was awesome. BMX was amazing family time – every weekend, we’d be going somewhere different to ride and Lachie just loved it.”

Sporting DNA

Kylee has a decent sporting pedigree of her own. She spent 12 years in the White Sox, New Zealand women’s softball team, and her father was a tough-as-teak policeman – at one stage serving with Dave Donaldson – and 42-game provincial rugby flanker for Wellington.

From an early age, Kylee and Steve could see that their eldest son was built a little different. “We kept him busy because he was always so active. And he’s always been quite calculating, from a young age. He wasn’t fearless but he would quickly work out if he could do something or not.”

BMX fulfilled the racing urge for Lachie but eventually – inevitably – the Whakarewarewa Forest would come calling. “We went to my last world champs for BMX and the year after that was going to be in Columbia. I was beginning to understand how much money my parents were spending and I wasn’t sure I wanted them to keep spending if I wasn’t really into it. I got my first mountain bike when I was 13 and did my first race soon after and I just started riding more and more in the forest.”

He first conquered Taniwha – Rotorua’s iconic national downhill trail – as an 11-year-old and by his mid-teens, he’d morphed from a wide-eyed enthusiast to a fully-fledged competitor. He rode in the Oceania champs in 2019, won his first national title in 2020 (under-17) and added his first open national crown this year, as well as his first Crankworx Rotorua downhill title.

“I remember thinking, when I was racing juniors and was 10 seconds off the elite times, 'how on earth could I go 10 seconds faster?’ and all of a sudden, this year, I’m hitting those times.” 

Riding the talent wave

One of his early heroes is now a friendly rival on the world stage. Brook Macdonald has been one of New Zealand’s finest downhillers in the past two decades, winning the 2009 junior world title in Canberra and accumulating World Cup podium finishes ever since.

“It’s been a long time since we have had such a wave of good riders come out of New Zealand but it seems like we’ve got more depth than ever, with riders like Lachie, who has had a breakout season and found form with consistent results and a podium along the way,” 32-year-old Brook says. “Kids are starting from such a young age and developing skills so quickly, and we have so much in the way of bike parks and facilities, which puts them in a spot of endless opportunity.” 

The key to success, the veteran explains, is consistency – getting everything dialled coming into a season, with comprehensive testing and plenty of miles under the belt.

And that means staying injury-free, which in downhill racing is nigh impossible. Lachie estimates he’s broken more than 40 bones in his body over his racing career, mostly in his arms and wrists, though twin vertebra fractures in 2022 at the world championships in France highlighted how serious the sport can be.

“I hate watching,” his mum confesses. “I just feel sick until they’re down safe. There are huge consequences, going so fast down such a steep gradient, with so many trees, roots and rocks. Injuries are going to happen and you just hope they’re not going to be life-changing.”

That’s certainly influenced how Lachie rides these days. “I don’t try and throw the biggest whips on jumps these days – it’s not worth it – and the biggest thing is that when I’m playing these days, I’m not playing too hard. I’m not going to stop having fun on my bike but I don’t want to be having dumb crashes.”

It’s a level-headed approach from a 20-year-old but somewhat appropriate from one who can sense a big future. “I realised the opportunity I had a couple of years ago and I don’t want to throw that away. I try to make sure I’ve done the work and make sure there’s nothing I haven’t done. There is so much shit you can’t control but as long as I’ve done everything I can, what happens, happens.” 

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In full flight

Feel the need, the need for speed? Channel your Top Gun fantasies on this international-level adventure.

Feel the need, the need for speed? Channel your Top Gun fantasies on this international-level adventure.

words Cameron Scott

If we want a world-class flying adventure, Bay locals are lucky – we need only go as far as Tauranga Airport. Owned by international airline pilot Craig Mossman and his wife Annie, Fighter Jets NZ is one of just a handful of ventures globally that offer clients exhilarating rides in a rapid and nimble two-seater jet fighter, and as the only business of its kind in this part of the world, it is attracting thrill-seekers from here, there and everywhere.

Of course, the experience of a lifetime doesn’t come cheap, but it’s not something you’re ever likely to forget, and neither is it over in a flash. The actual flight, which lasts around 30 minutes or so, can be customised to suit you. It’s the high point of a two-hour adventure that begins at Fighter Jets NZ’s base at 15 Dakota Way, a lane next to the Classic Flyers Museum, just down the road from the airport terminal. Here, you’re given a detailed briefing about your flight, including all-important safety procedures, before being kitted out with a flying suit, helmet and life jacket. You’re also shown how your helmet works and how to strap yourself into your seat, so no time is wasted before take-off (the ejection seat has been disabled, in case you were wondering).

If you want to bring friends or family along to watch, you’re welcome, says Craig. The record so far belongs to a customer who arrived with 35 people in tow.

Fighter Jets NZ owner Craig Mossman.

Fighter Jets NZ operates three high-performance Albatros military trainer jets designed in Czechoslovakia. Craig purchased the 901km/h aircraft in the US, where they’d been “Westernised” for civil ownership after being sourced in the Ukraine and Russia. He bought the first 12 years ago and used it recreationally before launching Fighter Jets NZ in 2017. He later added to the fleet and put together a full support team when it became clear there was a demand for commercial flights.

Fighter Jets NZ also has an unusual side hustle – participating in war games exercises with the Royal New Zealand Navy. Our air force hasn’t had suitable aircraft for the task since the government disbanded the RNZAF Air Combat Force’s three squadrons of fighter jets back in 2001.

When you’re on board, you’re in the best hands; five international airline pilots share flying duties and two are former RNZAF Skyhawk fighter pilots. The ground crew includes a maintenance controller, a marketing manager and even a Japanese interpreter. As well as handling customer liaison, Annie also manages special events. As for safety, Fighter Jets NZ runs under the close scrutiny of the Civil Aviation Authority of New Zealand and is fully certified.

Passengers can choose from three adventures, among them a 30-minute Top Gun experience that’s aimed at adrenaline junkies and tailored to individual requirements. Craig describes it as “pretty intense”, as it involves a serious aerobatic routine, pulling hefty G-forces. Then there’s the similarly priced and timed Thermal Recon, involving a sightseeing visit to the Rotorua Lakes district (just five minutes’ jet-speed flying time away), with a celebratory roll or two thrown in on the way back.

If you like your flying action slightly dialled back, there’s the 20-minute Buzz & Break, which by all accounts is no less amazing and includes spectacular low-level flying over the lakes. And you needn’t worry about bad weather clouding any of these experiences, as flights are scheduled only for fine days.

Since the business took off, so to speak, there’s been steady demand from around New Zealand and further afield – and not one person has said they didn’t enjoy their flight, says Craig. Some go to extraordinary lengths to get their jet-fighter fix. Annie recalls two Japanese passengers, close friends, who flew to New Zealand with the sole purpose of flying in a fighter jet, making the return trip over a single weekend.

Jet flights make an out-of-the-ordinary birthday or special occasion gift – and if several people chip in, as often happens, the cost becomes quite affordable.

Gift vouchers also make a memorable reward for corporate staff or their clients. Craig says one company liked the idea so much, it bought four flights, and Fighter Jets NZ has flown up to 10 corporate customers in a single day. They’re flexible too. If you’re given a voucher for the Top Gun experience, for example, but aerobatics aren’t your thing, you can swap it for another option.

Videos are available, so you can vicariously share the fun with others, but almost anyone who’s reasonably fit and no more than 145kg can enjoy the experience. So far, the youngest passenger to fly with Craig and Annie’s team was 16, and the oldest a game 94.

As far as thrills go, a flight in a fighter jet might be the ultimate, but for those who prefer to get theirs on solid ground, the Tauranga jets take part in major airshows too. Flown by highly skilled US pilots, they were a highlight of last Easter’s spectacular Warbirds Over Wanaka event, which attracted a crowd of around 65,000 people over two days.

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Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin

In the blood

Racing is all in the family for the McClymonts, a three-generation clan of Baypark Speedway legends

Racing is all in the family for the McClymonts, a three-generation clan of Baypark Speedway legends.

Words Catherine Sylvester | Photos Alan Gibson + supplied

Brent, Hayley, Luke and Emma at Baypark Speedway.

If Shakespeare was correct when he wrote “music be the food of love”, then the soundtrack to Brent and Hayley McClymont’s romance was playing long before they met. Instead of chords and harmonies, however, the backing track to their lives consisted of revving engines and the roar of a crowd as they travelled the speedway tracks of the North Island with their fathers.

Hayley and twin sister, Kylie, grew up around motorsport with their dad, Brian Audas, racing at Mystery Creek in Hamilton. A hundred kilometres away in Tauranga, Brent and his brother, John’s dad Dave, were also racing, and had helped build the old Baypark racetrack, behind what is now a trucking yard across the road from the current venue. Christine, the matriarch of the McClymont clan, has been involved with Baypark Speedway for many years, serving in a variety of roles including treasurer and secretary. 

Dave and Christine McClymont

With both senior members of the family holding honorary lifetime club memberships, and their lengthy involvement in racing, it’s unsurprising that Brent and John followed in dad’s tyre tracks and took up the sport themselves. There was even a time when all three McClymont men were competing weekly against each other on the track.

Brent McClymont

Keeping things in familia, more than 20 years ago Hayley married Brent, and Kylie married John. Both couples had children – Luke and Emma, and Jack and Josh, respectively – and the third generation of McClymonts became involved with speedway, either behind the wheel or in the pits.

Call it fate, karma or kismet, but Luke even made his earthly debut the opening night of speedway 20 years ago.

“It was also Brent’s birthday,” laughs Hayley. “Brent didn’t want to miss any racing, so he stood outside the hospital while I was in labour, doing a rain dance in the hopes it would be postponed – the speedway, that is, not Luke!”

While still only a few days old, Luke and Emma could be found at the racetrack, and grew up around the sport, playing in prams and sleeping
on chairs. The speedway community was like family, and all the competitor’s children would have a collective eye cast their way to ensure they were safe and staying out of trouble.

Although Brent hung up his helmet at the end of the 2014/15 season after 25 years of racing, he did so with an impressive array of trophies to his name. He’s a two-time NZ champion and has the distinction of being the only competitor to have placed in the top three on the podium for seven consecutive national titles since the recognition of the saloon class of cars.

The decision to pass the racing baton to his son came after Luke was rushed to hospital following a crash one night, with Brent unable to accompany him due to already being strapped into his own car and sitting in the line-up. He knew he could no longer fully support Luke and maintain his own racing career.

“I had another go last year when Luke was sick with COVID-19,” Brent explains. “Now, though, it’s watching the kids coming through the ranks
that I get a buzz from.”

Luke says racing is in his blood and that he’ll never get rid of it, nor would he want to. 

“Dad raced on the first ever opening night of speedway at Baypark, and there’s definitely a legacy there,” says the winner of the Regional Competitor of the Year Award 2023. “It’s something I’ll definitely want my kids to do, too.”

Unable to officially race at Baypark before the age of 12, Luke and Emma, along with cousins Jack and Josh, started out in motocross. When old enough, the three boys moved into racing mini-stocks, with Josh and Luke now competing against each other in the six-shooter category. Even Emma’s boyfriend, who used to race, has been brought into the fold as part of the McClymont pit crew.

Apart from a handful of “mums’ races” during fun days held at Waharoa Speedway (that turned quite competitive when sister Kylie joined in), Hayley is happy off the track, behind the scenes and in the pits. When they began dating 30 years ago, Hayley knew what she was getting into and jumped in boots and all. After race-day, she could be found polishing the car’s aluminium panels and cleaning Brent’s helmet. She acknowledges that although it’s the drivers who get the accolades, Brent and Luke know the work their crews do behind the scenes is what enables them to get out there and do what they do best. Competing is a full McClymont team effort.

“The crew make sure the gear is cleaned, memberships completed, accommodations booked when travelling for competitions, and entry forms filled out,” Hayley explains. “Brent and Luke always get up and thank everyone behind the scenes when they win, and that means a lot.”

The family credits their sponsors, particularly the ongoing, long-term support of local business McLeod Cranes, with their ability to keep racing.

Dave McClymont

“McLeod’s have always been on the side of our cars – Brent and John’s saloons, all the boys mini-stocks, and now Luke and Josh in the six-shooter class,” explains Hayley. It’s no surprise to learn there’s even a family connection there. “Brent’s mum is godmother to one of the boys who now run the business!”

With Luke firmly buckled into the driver’s seat and eyes focused forward (at the time of print Luke received sponsorship from Seamount Racing, taking him into the Midget class), dreams of racing sprintcars are on the horizon. However, his biggest obstacle in getting this out the gate isn’t the competition, but the financial outlay it requires.

“The only way that it could happen is if someone else owns the sprintcar package, Luke races it and we help maintain it,” says Hayley. “That’s the dream scenario, anyway – or to win Lotto!”

If the family’s record of wins is anything to go by, the odds are most likely in their favour. And with two competitors still in the game, we’ll no doubt be hearing the name McClymont announced for the victory lap over loudspeakers at Baypark for quite some time to come. 

 mcclymontracing

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Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin Fresh Reads, EXPLORE, Adventure Michele Griffin

Taming the Tora

Fifteen mums escape for a few days of vigorous exercise, a lot of wine, spectacular views and the best home-cooked meals a tired mum could ask for.

Fifteen mums escape for a few days of vigorous exercise, a lot of wine, spectacular views and the best home-cooked meals a tired mum could ask for.

Words Hayley Barnett

I’ve always considered myself a hiker, or a tramper as we’re more commonly known in New Zealand. Growing up, my family holidays consisted of walks through dense native bush, sleeping in tents and run-down cabins. The damp scent of Swanndris and merino socks, as well as the taste of Barley Sugars and trail mix, take me back there in an instant. It wasn’t until I became an adult that I learned not everyone has these same experiences, even Kiwis. 

My partner was born and bred in central Auckland and spent his youth tramping the streets, trailing behind his dad who regularly frequented jazz bars. Not a terrible life, but I can’t imagine sitting here now without those fond outdoor memories.

These days, I rarely get out for a hike, given we have young kids and my partner refuses to go anywhere near mud, so I’m limited to a few walks here and there with friends.

When I was invited to hit the Tora Coastal Walk with some mates and their mates and their mates of mates it didn’t take much to convince me.

The Tora trail was the first private walk to be established in the North Island 25 years ago. It’s located in the Southern Wairarapa, a half-hour drive from what is known as the ‘wine town’ of Martinborough. It takes three days to walk across hilly farmland and bush, with stays at three different types of accommodation, located on the farm and along the stunning Tora coast. 

The waitlist for groups to walk the Tora is a long one. We booked two years in advance, and just hoped we would all make it. Although a couple of people had to drop out in that time, replacements were easy to find. Our group was made up of 15 mums, all excited about the prospect of heading away, equipped with as much alcohol as we could fit in the hire van. A few of us had tagged on a shopping spree in Wellington the day before and were well acquainted before the one-hour drive to Poppies, our lunch stopover in Martinborough. Poppies makes beautifully hand-crafted wines, which you can sample in their impressive European-style tasting room and restaurant. It makes for a great taste of Martinborough when you’re passing through.

Another half hour’s drive away, we arrived at our accommodation, Whakapata Cottage. The quaint little farm house sleeps 15 people and sits at the entranceway to the Tora Coastal Walk.

We were greeted by owner Kiri Elworthy, a second generation Tora farmer, who has been inviting hikers on to her property for the past 28 years, and created many of the succulent dishes the walk has become well known for. These days she has a team of cooks, but is still actively involved in menu development. The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree either. Kiri’s four children have been known to knock out a lemon tart for 14 people, too. That night we were treated to a mean pesto fish dish, and a delicious fruit crumble, all made with fresh, organic ingredients. 

Kiri gave us a full rundown on the walk – what to expect each day, recommended leaving times and additional walks and activities to add to our itineraries. The following day is the hardest, she warned, with the steepest inclines and the longest distance. We all agreed to take it easy on the drinks that night.

The next day, we were up and raring to go. You couldn’t have asked for a better day weatherwise. We slapped on our sunscreen, laced up our embarrassingly clean boots and hit the track. 

Nothing could have prepared us for the views.
As soon as we hit the top of our first hill, the mountainous landscape was immediately vast and somewhat foreboding. On our first day, grey clouds filled the skyline and threatened to rain at various points. But the sun eventually shone through and we tramped on. We were lucky as the previous week had seen a large rainfall and left behind sticky mud for the hikers to slog through. By the time we arrived it had dried up completely. I still recommend taking hiking sticks, however. I’d say it made the track a good 10 percent easier to tackle, and I can highly recommend them after giving up my stick for a fellow hiker who was five months pregnant. It’s hard to justify a walking stick when a pregnant woman is huffing and puffing and letting out the odd worrisome moan behind you all the way. 

Six hours later we arrived at our destination, Stony Bay Lodge. Its luxurious ranch-like vibe is exactly what you need after a six-hour hilly tramp through farmland. A homemade peach shortcake awaited us and it wasn’t long before we were tucking into it on the deck, overlooking the rocky shoreline, our steaming socks lined up to dry in the sun. Thankfully, our boxes of Pals and Poppies vino had arrived before us (the transportation of baggage and alcohol is another luxury included in the package) and we made short work of those too. 

We had been left with a leg of lamb to roast and a sizeable pottle each of white chocolate mousse with berry coulis. 

An early night meant most of the group was up at the crack of dawn to hike up the hill behind us, then beyond to the end of the road to view the Opua Shipwreck. A handful of ladies stayed behind to natter and “keep the pregnant lady company”, and to make full use of the cosy living area with views of Manurewa Point and the Pacific Ocean.

By 11am we were all at the nearby rocks for some seal spotting, before heading over the hill and along the road to our next accommodation – Greentops Farmhouse. The historic home used to house Return Servicemen in the 1950s and features a cathedral ceiling and a stunning stained glass window. 

After we had settled in and recovered from a small bout of rain on our walk over (my jacket proved to be less waterproof than I’d hoped), a bunch of us followed a trail out the back up to the highest point in our journey. This was my favourite part of the trip – the views were even better than the previous day. It’s an optional add-on and is the last thing you want to do if you’ve completed all the optional extras, but if you only add one, let this be it. 

That last night was deemed to be “the big night”, where we let loose in all our fluoro glory and partied as long as our middle-aged livers would let us, which was quite far for some, too far for others, and meant the last walk was a lot harder than it should have been. 

It was a three-and-a-half-hour journey up and down some gnarly hills, but we all survived back in one piece.

Looking back on our three days, it’s easy to see why there’s a two-year wait for this incredible experience. Despite the sore heads, the group was keen to book another walk somewhere in the next year. Our boots will be well worn by then, and no doubt we’ll all have some hiking sticks at the ready. 

Toracoastalwalk.nz

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