Style status

Say hello to a warm weather aesthetic.

WORDS Nicky Adams

Cool comfort

Wardrobe staples ahoy. Longevity is the biggest drawcard, so look to a light cover or trench, a pencil skirt, trouser suit and jeans, which all have the potential to play a part in your spring capsule collection. The camel-coloured skirts (which you can try styling with a black or pale blue top for a change), muted tailoring and crisp white shirts that indicate simplicity are in vogue, and are a look that resonates with those that want to lower consumption and make the ‘what to wear’ question easy to answer. If you loved the New York minimalism epitomised by 90s icon Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, who died tragically 25 years ago, you’ll be celebrating the fact that her super-stylish legacy is inspiring the current heightened love of a sleek capsule wardrobe. Arm yourself with a sharp blazer, perfect tee and jeans with a slim loafer, or a slip dress
and flat slingback for the ultimate streamlined look.

Whilst we’re all clear on the widening trouser leg, waistlines feel like they’ve been yo-yoing up and down to the point of not knowing what’s in and what’s out. I think it’s fair to say that super Y2K low is generally a youth move, and anything north of that is fine. Mid waist is a comfy fit without a doubt, but high is looking to make its way back for next year, with designers such as Loewe showing under-bust super high at his Spring/Summer 24 fashion show. Really high can be smoothing when covered with an on-trend buttoned untucked white shirt – after all no-one knows what lies beneath. Skirts are still big news though, with lots of lengths to play with, the latest being the return of the midaxi. No prizes for guessing this falls to above ankles, below mid-calf.

*Spencer shirt in Baroque $225, Riper short $169,* *urbanvogue.co.nz*

Trending now

Most wanted this season.

Spring fling

While sheer skirts and dresses may feel whimsical by day, they are the ultimate in cool sophisticate for the evening, screaming the boho chic synonymous with high-end designer Chloe. Currently seeing a huge red-carpet fashion moment, being modelled impeccably by the ultimate fashion muse Sienna Miller has certainly helped bring this look into the mainstream. Unless you pick a more robust layered tulle, you’ll find a single layer chiffon needs careful wear, so if it’s an investment piece then be mindful of snag hazards. This look calls for delicate jewels and accessories and a sleeker choice of footwear; a little kitten heel, strappy sandal or even a Mary-Jane flat will finish the look nicely.

The word jumpsuit may send a shiver down your spine – and not a joyful one – but don’t be hasty. There are so many elegant and age-appropriate versions, the practicalities of not being able to go to the toilet simply fade into the background. Having been given the high fashion treatment, it’s hard not to get excited about some of the really flattering all-in-ones hitting the high street. You can’t miss the European inspired aesthetic of bold prints – Italian summer themes reign supreme, all Versace and la dolce vita rolled into one glorious burst of vibrant colour. The lightweight fabrics, layered jewellery, matching trouser sets together with dropped waists and puff sleeves all play to the frivolity of spring. The fashion obsessed will have tapped into Nicole Kidman’s latest Netflix series The Perfect Couple. Reflecting a world of American wealth, it’s perfect inspiration for spring event wear, with everything from structured gowns to layers and frou-frou, and an array of looks that can easily be emulated from the high street. When it comes to colours, take your pick from light blues, butter yellow, red – joyful shades will be everywhere.

Step up to step out

Man up to the season ahead with an elevated look.

It’s that time of year when invitations start arriving with the ubiquitous ‘smart casual’ dress code. For women this can be a little perplexing, more so as the cultural definition of both smart and casual has changed hugely over the last decade. For men though, it’s nothing short of a ‘what does this even mean’ as everyone starts furiously ringing round other attendees to find out if it’s a tie, or no tie, shorts, long trousers… help!

Life stage is another factor. While women are often conscious of the old-
school perception of ‘age appropriate’ this is equally outdated for both males and females, particularly when you see some of the middle-aged male role models currently taking centre stage – Daniel Craig and Brad Pitt, we’re looking at you. Finding your personal balance of still looking invested but allowing your style to mature along with you is pivotal.

Without a doubt there’s been a shift in emphasis onto the male of the species. Midlife men have had a celebrity boost in the style stakes with trendsetters such as the aforementioned Daniel Craig, who hitherto would not have ranked as a fashion icon; however he has shaken off sleek conservative style and before our eyes adopted a more rugged on trend vibe.

So, with this it’s clear that when navigating the spring/summer smart casual code, the parameters are wide. A real go-to would be a polo shirt. It doesn’t need to be branded but would likely be one that wasn’t covered in slogans. Short or long sleeve shirts are equally fine, and the shirt by no means has to be plain. Dress pants tend to be chino style and fabric is often a cotton twill. Tailored linen would be fine but leave the Ibiza drawstring ones in the island holiday pile. A linen suit is great for warmer weather but be mindful that linen naturally inclines to crease. Women are slowly making the shift from skinny over to a wider leg trouser, and men are following in their wake. Rather than skinny, a straight leg is a great smart/casual option. Depending on the event, sneakers, even designer ones, are probably lower on the list than a more professional style shoe – however you would really need to consider the event and crowd you will be with.

Make the most of being more confident in your choices:

Wear the clothes, don’t let them wear you: Even if you love the idea of going out in a blaze of glory, consider whether a more ‘out there’ look would just end up being the talking point, as opposed to a more subtle style choice.

Be authentic: If you’ve always been a surf dude in Billabong shirts and jandals then a total switcheroo would be weird. But there are plenty of summery shirts from smaller Australasian brands that do a really good job of well-cut short sleeve shirts in a breezy print that elevates the surf look to a smarter or more mature feel.

Pick an area of interest – don’t go for multiple: Try a shirt with detailed stitching, a suit in a bold colour, or ‘pricking’ or hand stitching on the edge of lapels.

Change up the corporate colour wheel: Light coloured suiting, while still polished, feels less stuffy. A taupe suit will look spring/summer ready and less like office wear. Light grey looks good; two shades can be put together tonally very easily.

To tie or not to tie: Ties are increasingly less common outside of the boardroom. A suit with a shirt with the top button undone is widely acceptable, and you can add the trimmings of pocket kerchief and cufflinks. A step up would be the top button of the shirt fastened.

Fashion forecast

Look ahead to summer 24/25.

Letting loose

The pajama look trend of oversized shirts and relaxed pants or boxers can be tricky to pull off when it’s not on the catwalk – but it’s not impossible. And it scores huge points for being seasonally appropriate and hugely comfortable. The key could be in the accessories – lots of jewellery and carefully paired shoe and bag combination to show that this is in fact a very deliberate outfit not a moment of menopausal madness.

Steal the limelight

‘Brat green’ – otherwise known as lime – is the colour that’s trending for Summer 24. Popularised by a British popstar, Charli XCX (if that means absolutely nothing to you, you’re not alone), apparently ‘the girls that get it, get it’. Aside from its pop culture context it was already in the mix as a summer favourite after appearing on the catwalks. It can be mixed with more than you might imagine, from black to gold to burgundy, grey, navy – even sky blue.

Aye aye, captain

What’s summer without a Breton stripe? With the call having gone out to the high fashion mavens to make the ordinary extraordinary, there’s been a host of classic styles given a lift. So, mariners’ stripes are looking hotter than ever, and nautical styles, from sailor collars to gold naval buttons, are a trend we can all get behind.

Fashion faithful

I honestly didn’t see this one coming, especially after culling all capris from my wardrobe some time ago. But here it is, and not only are they on the runway: the trend-setting and sealing Hadid sisters have both been seen wearing them, as has Kendall Jenner, so we can consider it official. Forever throwing Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot vibes, capri pants or pedal pushers can be styled in multiple ways, and we’ll be seeing them in every form from leggings to trousers to denim.

Blank canvas

What is right-sizing?