Style status
Say hello to a warm weather aesthetic.
Say hello to a warm weather aesthetic.
WORDS Nicky Adams
Alexandria Dress $249, Blak.co.nz
Cool comfort
Wardrobe staples ahoy. Longevity is the biggest drawcard, so look to a light cover or trench, a pencil skirt, trouser suit and jeans, which all have the potential to play a part in your spring capsule collection. The camel-coloured skirts (which you can try styling with a black or pale blue top for a change), muted tailoring and crisp white shirts that indicate simplicity are in vogue, and are a look that resonates with those that want to lower consumption and make the ‘what to wear’ question easy to answer. If you loved the New York minimalism epitomised by 90s icon Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, who died tragically 25 years ago, you’ll be celebrating the fact that her super-stylish legacy is inspiring the current heightened love of a sleek capsule wardrobe. Arm yourself with a sharp blazer, perfect tee and jeans with a slim loafer, or a slip dress
and flat slingback for the ultimate streamlined look.
Whilst we’re all clear on the widening trouser leg, waistlines feel like they’ve been yo-yoing up and down to the point of not knowing what’s in and what’s out. I think it’s fair to say that super Y2K low is generally a youth move, and anything north of that is fine. Mid waist is a comfy fit without a doubt, but high is looking to make its way back for next year, with designers such as Loewe showing under-bust super high at his Spring/Summer 24 fashion show. Really high can be smoothing when covered with an on-trend buttoned untucked white shirt – after all no-one knows what lies beneath. Skirts are still big news though, with lots of lengths to play with, the latest being the return of the midaxi. No prizes for guessing this falls to above ankles, below mid-calf.
Spencer shirt in Baroque $225, Riper short $169, urbanvogue.co.nz
Trending now
Most wanted this season.
Spring fling
While sheer skirts and dresses may feel whimsical by day, they are the ultimate in cool sophisticate for the evening, screaming the boho chic synonymous with high-end designer Chloe. Currently seeing a huge red-carpet fashion moment, being modelled impeccably by the ultimate fashion muse Sienna Miller has certainly helped bring this look into the mainstream. Unless you pick a more robust layered tulle, you’ll find a single layer chiffon needs careful wear, so if it’s an investment piece then be mindful of snag hazards. This look calls for delicate jewels and accessories and a sleeker choice of footwear; a little kitten heel, strappy sandal or even a Mary-Jane flat will finish the look nicely.
The word jumpsuit may send a shiver down your spine – and not a joyful one – but don’t be hasty. There are so many elegant and age-appropriate versions, the practicalities of not being able to go to the toilet simply fade into the background. Having been given the high fashion treatment, it’s hard not to get excited about some of the really flattering all-in-ones hitting the high street. You can’t miss the European inspired aesthetic of bold prints – Italian summer themes reign supreme, all Versace and la dolce vita rolled into one glorious burst of vibrant colour. The lightweight fabrics, layered jewellery, matching trouser sets together with dropped waists and puff sleeves all play to the frivolity of spring. The fashion obsessed will have tapped into Nicole Kidman’s latest Netflix series The Perfect Couple. Reflecting a world of American wealth, it’s perfect inspiration for spring event wear, with everything from structured gowns to layers and frou-frou, and an array of looks that can easily be emulated from the high street. When it comes to colours, take your pick from light blues, butter yellow, red – joyful shades will be everywhere.
Step up to step out
Man up to the season ahead with an elevated look.
It’s that time of year when invitations start arriving with the ubiquitous ‘smart casual’ dress code. For women this can be a little perplexing, more so as the cultural definition of both smart and casual has changed hugely over the last decade. For men though, it’s nothing short of a ‘what does this even mean’ as everyone starts furiously ringing round other attendees to find out if it’s a tie, or no tie, shorts, long trousers… help!
Life stage is another factor. While women are often conscious of the old-
school perception of ‘age appropriate’ this is equally outdated for both males and females, particularly when you see some of the middle-aged male role models currently taking centre stage – Daniel Craig and Brad Pitt, we’re looking at you. Finding your personal balance of still looking invested but allowing your style to mature along with you is pivotal.
Without a doubt there’s been a shift in emphasis onto the male of the species. Midlife men have had a celebrity boost in the style stakes with trendsetters such as the aforementioned Daniel Craig, who hitherto would not have ranked as a fashion icon; however he has shaken off sleek conservative style and before our eyes adopted a more rugged on trend vibe.
So, with this it’s clear that when navigating the spring/summer smart casual code, the parameters are wide. A real go-to would be a polo shirt. It doesn’t need to be branded but would likely be one that wasn’t covered in slogans. Short or long sleeve shirts are equally fine, and the shirt by no means has to be plain. Dress pants tend to be chino style and fabric is often a cotton twill. Tailored linen would be fine but leave the Ibiza drawstring ones in the island holiday pile. A linen suit is great for warmer weather but be mindful that linen naturally inclines to crease. Women are slowly making the shift from skinny over to a wider leg trouser, and men are following in their wake. Rather than skinny, a straight leg is a great smart/casual option. Depending on the event, sneakers, even designer ones, are probably lower on the list than a more professional style shoe – however you would really need to consider the event and crowd you will be with.
Make the most of being more confident in your choices:
Wear the clothes, don’t let them wear you: Even if you love the idea of going out in a blaze of glory, consider whether a more ‘out there’ look would just end up being the talking point, as opposed to a more subtle style choice.
Be authentic: If you’ve always been a surf dude in Billabong shirts and jandals then a total switcheroo would be weird. But there are plenty of summery shirts from smaller Australasian brands that do a really good job of well-cut short sleeve shirts in a breezy print that elevates the surf look to a smarter or more mature feel.
Pick an area of interest – don’t go for multiple: Try a shirt with detailed stitching, a suit in a bold colour, or ‘pricking’ or hand stitching on the edge of lapels.
Change up the corporate colour wheel: Light coloured suiting, while still polished, feels less stuffy. A taupe suit will look spring/summer ready and less like office wear. Light grey looks good; two shades can be put together tonally very easily.
To tie or not to tie: Ties are increasingly less common outside of the boardroom. A suit with a shirt with the top button undone is widely acceptable, and you can add the trimmings of pocket kerchief and cufflinks. A step up would be the top button of the shirt fastened.
Fashion forecast
Look ahead to summer 24/25.
Letting loose
The pajama look trend of oversized shirts and relaxed pants or boxers can be tricky to pull off when it’s not on the catwalk – but it’s not impossible. And it scores huge points for being seasonally appropriate and hugely comfortable. The key could be in the accessories – lots of jewellery and carefully paired shoe and bag combination to show that this is in fact a very deliberate outfit not a moment of menopausal madness.
Steal the limelight
‘Brat green’ – otherwise known as lime – is the colour that’s trending for Summer 24. Popularised by a British popstar, Charli XCX (if that means absolutely nothing to you, you’re not alone), apparently ‘the girls that get it, get it’. Aside from its pop culture context it was already in the mix as a summer favourite after appearing on the catwalks. It can be mixed with more than you might imagine, from black to gold to burgundy, grey, navy – even sky blue.
Aye aye, captain
What’s summer without a Breton stripe? With the call having gone out to the high fashion mavens to make the ordinary extraordinary, there’s been a host of classic styles given a lift. So, mariners’ stripes are looking hotter than ever, and nautical styles, from sailor collars to gold naval buttons, are a trend we can all get behind.
Fashion faithful
I honestly didn’t see this one coming, especially after culling all capris from my wardrobe some time ago. But here it is, and not only are they on the runway: the trend-setting and sealing Hadid sisters have both been seen wearing them, as has Kendall Jenner, so we can consider it official. Forever throwing Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot vibes, capri pants or pedal pushers can be styled in multiple ways, and we’ll be seeing them in every form from leggings to trousers to denim.
Style status
Stay cool on the outside, toasty on the inside.
Break out a new look this autumn.
Words Nicky Adams
Cos Belted double faced wool coat, $450
Winter warmers
Some people absolutely love winter fashion – the cosying up, full cover or layering are all considered seasonal techniques that are tried, tested and nigh on always a success. The appeal of the winter palette is another drawcard for many when it comes to staple pieces for those that happily gravitate towards classic darker tones. The big advantage that I see in a winter wardrobe is the ability to really explore beautiful fabrics. New Zealand has access to an abundance of natural fibres – wool in multiple forms such as Merino, as well as cashmere, beautiful silks that all make for stunning winter wear. For 2024 texture is a trending look, and nothing makes for a better textural visual than a combination of fibres – silky satin paired with leather, a super soft fine cashmere skirt matched with a heavy woollen cover up. A longline coat (or floor sweeper) is a definite staple must-have for winter. Often worn oversized with room for plenty of layers beneath, a tailored coat is something that
will never date. A strong look has been the incorporation of loungewear, which many A-listers have styled for colder months under tailored outerwear. The juxtaposition of hoody and sweatpants under a beautiful coat is a love it or hate it look. Meanwhile, the ultimate piece of winter footwear has to be the Ugg boot. A Southern Hemisphere staple for decades, it had a peak fashion moment in the early 2000s, which while it dipped back to lingering in the background, certainly seems to have come to the fore again this year.
And what’s not to love – comfort and practicality rolled into a squishy package. Leaning into brown colourways will be huge, from chocolate to chestnut, and as luck would have it brown pairs beautifully with the other hot seasonal colour of red.
Camilla & Marc Litha Dress $660. nz.camillaandmarc.com
Mix it up
Over-the-knee and thigh-high boots have been begging to be let back in the wardrobe for a while now. At first glance they may seem better suited to the streets of New York than the Bay of Plenty, but they can be more versatile and low key than first appears. If you don’t think you can make it work for you, then a pointed toe kitten heel ankle boot or a pair of Mary Janes should be a must have. Another hot ‘outfit maker’ would be a good piece of hardware. Adorned belts straight away become a statement piece – elevating a white tee shirt and jeans from blah to bling. There is going to be a lot of fluff around, particularly with coats and jackets – whether feather, fur or teddy – it can take a brave person to go head to toe, so if this is daunting then stick with the trim. If you go for fuzz, then contrast with something silky, or accessorise with a pair of leather gloves – a really stylish mix of textures. Whilst I hate to say leather again, it’s hard to avoid, because leather/faux leather has been so huge on the runways. Rather than rugged, the leather this season has a more feminine feel. A classic leather dress need not be a bank breaker, and a sleeveless slip style is ageless. If you want a wow separate, then sheer is the way to go. It’s everywhere, and it doesn’t have to be revealing – Rita Ora most of us are not. So pop a cami under a mesh top or bodysuit for modesty or a slip under a sheer dress and away you go. Oversized is the way to wear your knitwear, from turtleneck to crewneck – if it feels overwhelming then ‘knotting’ has become a styling technique. Equally the knotted look has carried over onto tops and dresses, which takes a shift style into something with a more flattering silhouette as well as adding to the aesthetic.
Gotta have it
The trends amplified by algorithms.
The fashion industry has had a makeover, embracing the concept that this is the age of wearing what suits us, and what makes us feel good. Nevertheless there will always be trends – the question is, who actually sets them?
We have entered an era where there is no clear authority. Previously fashion influences were straightforward, coming directly from the runway to the Highstreet to our wardrobe, with trends glamourised by A-list celebrities. Now we have social media, and with it an entirely different force to be reckoned with. The generational split of Tik Tok is narrowing, and now trends that rock on this platform are pitched not just at youth culture, but are more inclusive, finding different corners of the platform for the more mature audiences. With everyone from ‘Jo Public’ posting to highly strategised marketing campaigns being rolled out, it’s a forum for everyman. Even low-level social media followers will find they are exposed to various influencers aligned with clothing brands, designers and stores, opening our eyes to looks and styles we might otherwise have missed. The more we identify with someone, the more we’re likely to try out a trend.
So it’s little surprise that the latest looks come not just by way of the catwalks, but also through your feed. The interesting thing about the latest viral trends is that the fashion it's bringing to us are ‘upcycled’ – looks that we’ve not just seen before, but that are achievable with a bit of a dig around Depop, and perfectly suited to the current pared back economy.
Whooshing through 2024 is the Mob Wife aesthetic. Sweeping Tik Tok it’s everything you imagine and more. Grab your hairspray for bouffant hair, heavy make-up, big furs (real or fake) and show-stopping jewellry; it’s The Sopranos meets The Godfather meets Casino. Seen as a more grown up look than perhaps the Barbiecore craze, it personifies a woman who knows what she wants and who means business. Despite being popularised on the internet, it’s not a concept that has arrived from nowhere. Look to the runway and there will be elements with multiple designers: leather, bodycon, the theatrics of fashion beloved by the Italian designers from Dolce & Gabbana to Gucci.
The flamboyance of the Mob Wife is an extension of a trend that may have come to us via the fashion houses, but it’s also an iteration of what we find around us in pop culture. And pop culture is where it’s at. One of the biggest star power influencers, Zendaya, has just released
a film based around tennis. No surprise that ‘Tennis core’ is now raging, with mini pleated skirts and sporty chic silhouettes a huge look. Likewise the recent Amy Winehouse film introduced her kitsch unique style to a new generation. The key to embracing the essence without looking as though you’ve delved into a dress up box are to stop short of tacky. Each of these trends will resonate with anyone who loves to reach into the archives of their wardrobes or charity shops where large sunnies, vinyl skirt suits and musty furs are aplenty.
Sitting alongside this over-the-top dopamine dressing is Loud luxury. This again rejoices in the bold – leopard, polka dots, colour and edgier silhouettes – and if you want to indulge in a little logomania, then do so. Seen as the anti ‘old money’ and ‘clean girl’ look, Loud Luxury is overtly glamorous, but always tasteful. Drama, creativity and exuberance are key words – all of them conjuring up a more playful attitude towards fashion.
If all this sounds a little too out there, then fear not . Quiet Luxury – the head to toe of creams and neutrals, beloved by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow – still simmers away, a low-key look that suits the fashion lover who longs for a wardrobe packed with understated elegance. So while searches for leopard print and faux fur coats have gone through the roof, the power of trend setting becoming more of a democracy means that there is room for everyone at the fashion table.
Victoria Beckham
Fashion forecast
Get ahead with the latest summer fashion trends.
Sheer Delight
While sheer fabrics have successfully bridged the gap between day and evening wear, as a rule they tend to be dark tones, predominantly black or slate grey. Spring will see sheer white dresses making their way from runway to street. Eek – the mind boggles with just how many ways this could be a fail.
Alexander McQueen
Rose Tinted Glasses
With a Garden Of Time dress code for the 2024 Met Gala, which has long been considered the highlight of the fashion calendar, it’s perhaps not surprising some of the designers doubled down on their floral creations for their Spring/Summer 2024 collections. However, it’s a very specific nod to Roses. Long thought of as the most romantic of the blooms, it fits with some of the feminine themes that are headlining for this season.
Gucci/ JW Anderson
Sport of Course
Sportswear has been elevated to new heights over the last few years, with the lines blurred between leisurewear/loungewear and sportswear. It’s hard to know if activewear with heels will really take off, but it’s easy to see the appeal of oversized hoodies worn as dresses, or trackie tops with jeans.
Stella McCartney
Ice Ice Baby
Soft icy blue is a welcome colour for spring – limitless in its pairings, with black it feels bold, with brown there’s a bit of a retro vibe, or with beige for elegance. It’s a very versatile shade as it can be worn head to toe without being overpowering and looks good on blondes and brunettes alike.
Style status
Versatility is key for the wardrobe this season
Versatility is key for the wardrobe this season.
Words Nicky Adams
Auguste Lelia maxi dress $299
Hot stuff
Balancing work and play outfits across the summer months is an annual consideration for most of us as the temperature rises. No one wants to overinvest in office wear, so to find pieces that tick the boxes of appropriate, breathable and stylish can be a challenge.
Gear shift dress $229
Sheath dresses just so happen to be on-trend and, with their easy fit, will suit most body shapes. A style that is readily available in linen and cotton, should you opt for a sheer fabric, find a light slip to layer underneath. If it feels too shapeless, then belts are another key trend and one that will add a waistline.
MakJordan stripe blazer $239 and Salma stripe pants $175
An oversized slouchy suit in a light linen with a satin camisole top underneath is super versatile for office or evening – just change up footwear from ballet flats to heels. If you’re feeling brave, an all-white suit comes off as effortlessly elevated – classic monochrome definitely comes under the luxe category.
Beach shirt $385,
Caitlincrisp.com
Laser-cut designs are a thoroughly modern take on a lace look; still conjuring up all the romanticism associated with this finish, a shirt can be put with anything and will pay style dividends.
We know cargo pants are big hitters this season, and they’re coming in multiple fabrics, freeing them up from just streetwear – try styling with kitten heels for the office.
Lilac and purple had a makeover last year, and the softer tones remain a really coveted colour this season. It’s fun to pair the various shades together or, if this is too much, just try a splash among other colourways.
Trending Now
Most wanted this season
Wear It Well
Ultra-feminine and floaty are trends that naturally lend themselves to this time of year; semi-sheer can look sophisticated and polished while still giving off a light and breezy vibe. More timeless than trendy, it can take you from day event to evening occasion seamlessly. Above all, we want our summer outfits to feel effortless – the silhouette of the season is definitely strapless, which works perfectly with the hot weather holy grail of achieving as few tan lines as possible.
Morgan pleat bodice $229 and Morgan pleat skirt $249,
The simplicity of style is timeless; however, strapless naturally lends itself to a dressy occasion – and the cleaner the lines, the more you can layer up the accessories. Depending on the fabric (and event), the footwear will follow – cottons and stretch ribbed materials will suit casual slides, jandals or sneakers; and although we love to throw street shoes with everything, satin or shimmery fabric will dazzle with a dressy sandal. It’s fun to signal the frivolity of summer with your colours; vibrant hues are key this season – and if you don’t usually indulge, then try toning down by pairing with a more neutral piece such as jacket.
Riti Dress $529
Whether you love them or loathe them, tailored shorts are here to stay this season; despite being a look that is trickier to carry off, worn with heels, even the haters will be converted to the Bermuda length. Again on the divisive front is a 1980s favourite. If I say bubble hems are back, I’m sure there will be mad scrabbling in the bottom of dress-up boxes. But like any past style, it’s reappeared in a more sophisticated form. Its full, voluminous style requires visual balance from top to toe, but creates a dramatic look that will be a showstopper.
Trelise Cooper Crazy In Love dress $999,
Shapeshifting
Underpin your look for the ultimate outcome.
When it comes to makeovers, the world of shapewear is right up there at the top of the tree. A gradual rebranding over the last 20 years has amped up into full force over the last five, to the point where most women will boast at least one pair of firm flesh-coloured undies in their lingerie collection.
The emphasis has moved from slogans that were enough to make you sweat at the mere thought – “hold-me-ins that don’t let you out” a popular catchphrase that said it all – to a rebranding as empowering underwear essentials that give you a seamless, smooth silhouette. Botox for the body, if you will. Our love affair with silky slip dresses and body-con loungewear has meant that the merits of good solid undies cannot be understated to achieve the ultimate flawless finish.
Women’s dressing has historically relied on firm foundations, most famously the corset, and while we’ve largely evolved from the belief in blatant restriction, the concept has been taken and transformed into in all manner of variants (that unless you’ve dabbled in this world before, you really would have no idea existed). From the basic seamless slip that will give you line-free curves (some with built-in bra, some designed to go over your own), to a backless bodysuit (a real lifesaver if you want something that gives boob support and smooths over your tummy area) to high-waisted shorts that will smooth the belly, ensure no panty line, and continue over top of legs. There is literally something for every dress, occasion, and body shape. The most well-known of the brands are Spanx in the States, and Nancy Ganz here in New Zealand. Nancy Ganz has been at this game for a long time, which is reflected in the sheer variety on offer, and is easily available (Farmers). Kmart is worth checking out for entry level pieces. However, if you’re happy to shop online the Skims brand from Kim Kardashian has in some ways revolutionised the mass market, so much so that she has just introduced Skims for men – designed to enhance not conceal curves, she has had the forethought to introduce inclusive sizing and diverse shades from beige to brown. The brand has also thrown in a few other innovations – the one-leg undies are a godsend to anyone with a maxi dress with a side split.
There are other tricks of the trade used to perfect a polished look. Boob Tape is useful, although how effective depends on the size and perkiness of your breasts – “three children” and “boob tape” don’t usually work in the same sentence. Nevertheless, it’s worth a go – double- sided, it sticks to your skin, then onto the dress. Using it is something you want to practise first as it can be as tricky as eating jelly with a fork. However, even if you don’t manage to harness your breasts effectively, it can be super useful for sticking down a gaping décolletage on a plunging dress.
To achieve the ultimate look, the focus is to avoid anything that makes you feel as though you are being squeezed in. The point of the evolution of shapewear is that it is no longer seen as a tool in flab fighting –anything that claims to eliminate excess flesh totally overlooks the physics of the body. Just like a sausage, if you’re pushing something into a tight skin, the law of science dictates that it must burst out somewhere else, and no one wants spillage over the top of a waistband.
So just like with the external outfit, try, try and try again until you find the under-garment that may not look pretty, but feels fabulous.
Fashion forecast
Get ahead with the latest summer fashion trends.
Louis Vuitton
Mix and Match
If you thought you’d seen enough rugby shirts after the World Cup to last
a lifetime, then you’re out of luck. The cool crowd have brought back this dad trend as a must-have, and it’s not just for the sideline sports fans: If you’re in any doubt then take note from the coolest of them all, Chloe Sevigny, spotted sporting one in downtown New York.
Stella McCartney
Tie it up
Sharp suiting – also known as power dressing – is a look that designers have brought to the fore for autumn/winter. This more polished approach to suiting is a throwback to the 1980s, so it’s no surprise to see exaggerated shoulders and sleek silhouettes. Throw in the double-breasted jackets, sartorial use of ties and tailored pinstriped pencil skirt suits and it’s hard not to feel nostalgic.
Alessandra Rich
Skirting the Issue
Denim skirts have been yanked back from the early noughties and heralded as the denim-to-die-for this season. In all lengths from midi to maxi, there’s a range of colourways and styles with detailing, belts and splits. This is one runway style that translates seamlessly to the wardrobe. For the cooler months and the shorter lengths, pair with long boots underneath for practicality.
MakeBottega Veneta
Leather looks
Leather has been in every winter wardrobe for a number of years; however, it’s looking to reach its zenith for autumn/winter 23. Never has this medium been used with such breadth – versatility is an understatement. Skirts, shirts, denim-look leather, evening dresses – even socks.
Style status
Spring into action with trans-seasonal pieces
Spring into action with trans-seasonal pieces
Words Nicky Adams
Augustine Ezra Skirt $159.99, Betty Blazer, $199.99, AND Kesha top, $139.99, all from Augustine.co.nz
READ THE ROOM
Again and again the same phrase is being reiterated – timeless rather than trendy; reimagining and repurposing classics with sensitivity to the economic climate. Staples should make up around 70 percent of your wardrobe and be trans-seasonal. If you update with one basic, make it utility wear – a pair of cargo pants, jacket or dress. Rather than the shapeless low-rise trousers of Y2K, this time cargos are tailored, and utility wear boasts well-placed pockets and comes in a range of colours and fabrics. Trousers are a solid staple this season; along with
ultra-baggy styles, straight leg (both jeans and tailored) are a great investment.
Unisex ACW X TBL Hunting Parka, $1,500 from timberland.co.nz
Xander tailored pant, $159 from iloveugly.co.nz
PUMA Cali Court sneakers, $160 from nz.puma.com
RETRO CHIC
Great for the office, casual or event wear is the spring staple of florals, and jewel tones give a fresh perspective. Tweed is strong this season and along with the classic jacket, there are sheath dresses and two-piece combos. Meanwhile the white sneaker trend has morphed into subcategories. Celebs have been seen in Adidas Originals which look great with wide-leg pants. Elevated sports luxe tends to be understated and easy to pair with anything, while the closest to a “trainer” often introduces colour while giving a 90s vibe (the Asics Gel Kayano celebrated its 30th anniversary with a new release). These are best paired with oversized blazers and baggy jeans, not dresses.
Trelise Cooper At A Cinch Dress, $899 from wendysboutique.co.nz
Asics Gel Kayano Legacy, $340 from asics.com/nz/en-nz
Twist detail halterneck jumpsuit, $215 from Cos, Commercial Bay, Auckland
TRENDING NOW
Most wanted this season
BRIGHT, SUNSHINY DAYS
As the weather starts lifting, why not lean into glamour with something elegant or slinky. Corset styles are here to stay, and have been worked into patterned and floral dresses, giving off a vintage rather than bedroom feel. If you gravitate more towards easy to wear, easy to care, then a strapless silhouette is a key look, whether in maxi or mini length. Again, there’s that 90s minimalism prevalent in the aesthetic, but stretch fabrics have come a long way in that time, so comfort is a bonus. Necklines have been a focus for summer styles, with delicate shoulder reveals and halter necklines big news, whether in tops or incorporated into all-in-ones. Spring pastels are a tried and tested seasonal win. While barely there hues of baby pinks, blues, lavender and sunshine-yellow may feel like a cliché, they just look so good as the weather brightens.
Knewe Dakota Dress, $229 from street2surf.co.nz
L’idee Vacances top, $262 & skirt, $239 from superette.co.nz
Venice Shoes, $319 from nicolerebstock.com
Simply Italian Wreath Earrings, $244 from tillyandtiffen.co.nz
FESTVAL FEVER
If concert wear is front and centre, you’ll know that the bigger the star, the more themed the ensemble. While festival fashion has always been a thing (think Coachella, as much a fashion statement as an event, or Glastonbury grunge aesthetic), it seems themed threads have gone mainstream – so much so that some websites (ASOS, One Teaspoon) devote sections to concert looks. Cowboy boots will forever be synonymous with boho, as chic with shorts as with sequins; the Taylor Swift Eras tour has made fringed outerwear a must-have. Check out party dresses that can be paired with sneakers as well as heels – comfort is key! The concert must-have of 2023 is the perspex bag; rather than just another revival of a 90s look, its high visibility ticks all the security boxes.
Self Portrait Gold Sequin Mini Skirt, $589 from superette.co.nz
All Star Hand Embellished Leather Jacket, $780 from oneteaspoon.com.au
Aviator sunglasses, $39.99 from
Golden Emboss Glamour shoes, $219 from minx.co.nz
Celestial Rose Long-sleeved Top, $109 from oneteaspoon.com.au
Mini Slouch handbag, $380 from helenmiller.co.nz
WHAT TO WEAR
How to tackle a dress code.
Event wear dressing goes hand in hand with several “in a perfect world” prerequisites. Ideally, the outfit will be unique enough that you don’t arrive and find you’re twinning with anyone else; the ensemble will be crease-proof – and sweat-proof – enough to survive the day and, of course, it goes without saying that you feel like the very best version of yourself when you rock up to the do.
Depending on your relationship with fashion, the chance to go all out for an event, whether it be the races, a wedding or a formal evening, can either get the adrenalin pumping through exhilaration or sheer terror. You may have more than one date in your diary, but lots of events doesn’t have to mean lots of looks. Going to the races calls for something on the classic and conservative side (go easy on the cut-outs, sheer and above-the-knee) as does a wedding, so it’s possible there could be crossover for these events. Equally, for a cocktail or a black-tie event, one outfit could serve both purposes. Change up the accessories, jackets and hair and no-one need know.
If you want to guarantee a unique look then shopping for vintage is fun, but if you’re buying unseen then it’s worth remembering sizing has changed over the years; a dress from the 70s will size smaller than present day. Renting occasionwear is increasingly popular and is a great way to source a label you might not find locally. Australasia has some phenomenal boutique designers; the smaller the run rate, the better your chance of being a standout.
Decoding the invitation
Navigating a dress-code can sometimes feel dicey, but it doesn’t need to be:
Smart/casual – dress up a little and break out that elevated look that’s just a smidge too smart for a dinner date. Preferably not jeans (unless they’re dark denim and you might get away with it) paired with a chic top for women or collared shirt for men rather than a tee, and heels or dress shoes as opposed to trainers.
Cocktail – bring on the satin, silks, velvets... A cocktail dress is traditionally thought of as around knee-length, although maxi is equally on point. For men, suits (with shirt and tie), usually dark in shade but if it’s a daytime event, light colours can be cool.
Black tie – gown or cocktail dress, go big or go home. Elevate your look with accessories, evening bags, jewellery, shoes. Tuxedo for men with bow tie.
White tie – this is top tier, so if you’ve been invited to an event like this, it’s unlikely you need advice! On the off-chance you do, then floor length gown terrain, tails for men – and white gloves all around.
Key looks for event wear spring 2023
Orange has been noted as a number one wedding guest colour this season, while green, brown and navy are also topping colour charts. Along with longer hemlines, cocktail, boho and western looks. High/low hemlines, tulle and ruffles. Elevated fringe.
Inside scoop
For women:
“The biggest trends we’re seeing are lots of bright colours and beautiful prints which Trelise Cooper does so well; we’re also seeing florals coming from our European labels.” The team at Wendy’s Boutique
For men:
“Shades coming through are rich dark greens, with complementary brown/tan buttons and contrasting stitch on jackets. White or black shirts with subtle textures look sharp worn underneath.” Jason Dovey, Bond & Co.
FASHION FORECAST
Get ahead with the latest summer fashion trends.
Seeing Red
For those desperately trying to balance out the shades of pink that are everywhere this spring, then throw in some red. A colour that is not only strong for summer, but one that is dominating the colour wheel for next autumn, it’s being showcased as head to toe rather than just accents. If you want to get ahead of the curve, this is one way to do it.
Wrapped Up
Never far away from the top trends, the bow is back this summer. On skirts, dresses and blouses – whimsical and romantic, for 2023, the bigger the bow the better. Oversized makes for a statement, and whether
on the shoulder as a strap detail, or added as a three-dimensional embellishment, the feminine look is a hit. If this is too much, then the easiest way to wear a bow is a loosely tied pussybow blouse.
Water Works
Summer resort trend is all about the mermaid inspiration – ranging from
a sprinkling of ocean to full- on Ariel under the sea. A body-skimming gown with a fishtail skirt is an obvious interpretation, along with pearl jewellery, crochet separates and sequin column dresses. If sequins feel like they’ve supersized, that’s because they have. Outfits are bedecked with lots of the larger scale-like sequins – paillettes. Sealike shades bring the look into force, with aqua, cerulean and cobalt colourways.
Pep Talk
If you’ve started noticing a resurgence of the peplum trend, you’d be right – and by summer it will be in full force. Generally a more structured look that in itself can be divisive, historically it has played into tailoring; however with its summer ’23 reboot it’s being incorporated not just into dresses but also jackets and tops, while being softened into almost a frill
in some cases.
Style status
Keep cosy but cool with key elements this season
Keep cosy but cool with key elements this season.
Words Nicky Adams
LAYER UP
Winter is the time when fabrics really come into play. Texture adds a whole new layer to any piece, so the distinctive look of mohair, or the sheen of silk or satin can take an outfit to the next level. Wool is at the fore in its many forms, and a modernised Fair Isle jumper is a cool retro aesthetic. Match with a pair of leather pants and chunky boots, or a statement sweater in cable knit or an on-trend colour (there are greens and pinks galore), and you have an outfit that breezes from day to night. If a jumper feels like too much of a temperature commitment (no one wants to feel trapped sweating it out on a mild Bay day), then consider a cardigan. Versatile to the end, it’s the ultimate seasonal sneak piece as you still get to showcase the outfit beneath.
Wrapping up in something snuggly has never been more acceptable with the post-pandemic love fest for leisurewear. A determination to prioritise comfort has led to a burgeoning market for anything you feel good in. Meanwhile, a solid staple that’s hit the big time this season is the white shirt – with the potential to be styled in multiple ways, it’s a foundation piece that you can’t do without. Winter accessories are surely the most gratifying, and this year the bigger the scarf, the more on-trend. A lightweight version comes into its own with its ability to double as sleek outfit accent and draught excluder when you get the seat no-one wants next to the open office door
Mulberry Bronte Bag $85, for stockists contact antlernz.co.nz
Principessa Dress, $570, twentysevennames.co.nz
Cable Knit Fair Isle Sweater, $299.95,
scotch-soda.com.au
Geo White Shirt, $269, Chartreuse Sailor Jeans, $289, nz.kowtowclothing.com
Peter Alexander Knit Check Cardi $99.99, peteralexander.co.nz
Easel Combat Boot, $400, mipiaci.co.nz
Garica faux leather pants, $255, urbanvogue.co.nz
Green Abstract Leopard Scarf $39, for stockists contact antlernz.co.nz
TRENDING NOW
Most wanted this season.
Unpack the partywear
Looking polished in winter always feels like a bit more of an effort – but the dazzle can still be worked into the outfit, just in different ways. The most obvious route is via your outerwear – a stylish, quality winter coat or jacket is an investment piece that will not just elevate your look but will be with you to the end. When you’re going glam in winter, you want hard-working multifunctional looks that will translate just as well at a milestone birthday party as a black-tie event. Balancing statement with staples is easy
to achieve with an on-trend maxi dress or skirt. Full-leg coverage makes this the ultimate cold-weather piece that can turn its hand to a host of different looks. Style with a blazer or larger-than-life faux fur for a super cool classic silhouette, or throw on a low-key jacket for contemporary. Plush textures are going strong, so don’t shy away from a furry, feather or shearling aesthetic. To extend your looks still further, consider winterising items in your wardrobe by incorporating layering pieces. Fine knit merinos or turtlenecks will slip under dresses and can be styled either to blend in or as a contrast.
Ruby Ariel Dress $329, rubynz.com
Nautica Ring $379, silkandsteel.co.nz
Curtis sleeveless Blouse $199,
rubynz.com/collections/liam
Scarf Mini Skirt $519 (limited edition), zara.com/nz
Nautica Hoops $269, silkandsteel.co.nz
In your element
The scarf trend has crept into clothing and can
be found incorporated into everything from coats to skirts. Embellishments are key; however, it’s worth thinking about the type of event before you commit to a look – stand-up versus sit-down can be more of an outfit barometer than you think (hours on a seat-full of sequins can be prickly). Instead tie these aspects in other ways. A black ankle boot will be a wise investment, good with maxis and pants, a sleek slimline heel makes this the perfect footwear to swap in to replace ankle-baring heels. If you’ve opted for a minimal design outfit then top the look off with an evening bag with extra va-va-voom; high shine or intricate detailing is a sartorial win.
Angel Feather Jacket $499, stormonline.com
Cashmere oversized sweater, honeydew,
$859, standardissue.co.nz
Darcy Suede Boots $490, scarpa.co.nz
C/MEO Reciprocate Mini Dress $349,
cocowellington.co.nz
Brie Leon Antonia Bag $250,
paperplanestore.com
COLOUR ME PRETTY
Work out which shades will light up your life. Words Nicky Adams
While we live in a time of obsessing over miracle creams and tweakments, the more achievable secret to looking our best is far simpler and lies not in a needle but in our wardrobe. For men and women alike, some colours will quite literally take years off you by visually brightening your skin tone. Others will suck the very life force from you.
Deciphering the colour palette that best suits your skin tone is not an exact science. A professional colour analysis is one way of doing it, or you can DIY it by holding up different colours close to your face to see which give you a lift. No matter how light or dark your skin is on the outside, cool, warm and neutral undertones are the colours that come through from under the surface of your skin. By looking at the veins on your wrist you may be able to work out where you sit. Blue or purple veins indicate a cool skin, green means warm. If, like me, you have spent lots of time staring at your veins but remain none the wiser, it might be that you sit between both and are neutral. Another tried-and-tested way is by looking at your jewellery or watch; silver looks good on cool skin tones, while gold flatters warm tones. Failing all these methods, most people will know how they react to the sun’s rays – warm undertones tend to tan, cool will burn more easily. While hair colour is no clear-cut indicator, generally the darker your hair, eyes and skin, the brighter the better, whereas naturally fair of skin and hair will find pastels and paler shades complement their features.
Once you’ve got a baseline of the shades that theoretically flatter you, don't be too literal. It’s very common to simply dismiss a colour and all the shades that lie around it when armed with the perception that the base colour does not suit you. However, different hues within the colour wheel can be subtle to the eye yet throw off a totally different look. Using white as an example, the wrong hue can easily make you look washed out – while pure white looks fabulous on cool complexions, a shift to ivory makes it stunning for warm. So, if there is a colour you’ve mentally banned, try again with an alternative that sits in close proximity.
If you’re reading this with a view that it’s irrelevant because “one size fits all” black is your go-to, then I have bad news. Black has long been considered the safe option, but for many complexions it can drain all the colour from the face; worse still, it can cause shadows that pool in those fine wrinkles, which of course is more obvious as we mature. If this is the case, you might find that swapping out black for navy is like switching on an internal light.
Once you’ve found those shades that really make an impact, don’t be scared to dial it up a notch. As we mature, vibrant colours become a statement. We’re in a fashion moment where dopamine dressing rules supreme - nevertheless, if you simply can’t make your favourite colour work then don’t despair, all is not lost. The key is to keep it at a distance from your face, so anything worn from the waist down will work. Equally use the colour to build on to accessorise with bright heels or matching bags.
Cool dressing
Pink or bluey-red undertones tend to blush more easily. Aim for bright greens, purples, bold and pale blues, jewel tones, cool greys, crisp white and sea shades.
Warm wearers
Yellowish or olive undertones look good in earth colours. Try greens, browns, warm reds, orange, peach, coral, yellow, taupe and off-white.
Neutral undertones
You suit a variety of hues and shades and can get away with most colours, so wear what makes you feel best, but be careful of bright colours.
Universally flattering colours
Anyone can wear these, whether you're cool, warm, or neutral, so don't be afraid to go bold with true red, teal and dark purple
FASHION FORECAST
Get ahead with the latest spring fashion trends.
What Lies Beneath
Lingerie-inspired looks have left the bedroom and will be hitting the high street. Think corseted tops and beautiful satins along with sheer fabrics and luxurious lace trimmings. The ubiquitous slip dress will be seen with lacy accents, and pretty camisole tops abound. To be this slinky needs confidence, and this trend is a something of a twist on power dressing.
A New Angle
Well, hold onto your hats – flattering and relatable? Surely not! Asymmetric hemlines are big for spring. This look lends itself to a fabric with movement and ruching along the seam; both aspects make this super easy to wear.
Shine Bright
Silver is coming out as leader of the metallics. A little more discreet than gold, it can be toned down to pewter, and slides into daywear with ease. Meanwhile, lime is the shade that will sing spring from the low-sheen colour chart. Refreshing and with a range of tones suited to most people, it’s a bold choice, but one that signals summer is on its way. With a colour this vibrant, the design is best pared back to let the hue do the talking.
Ethereal Beauty
Sleek draped dresses and skirts – dreamy, goddess-like and the new romantic on the runway. Avoid looking too costumey by keeping accessories to the minimal. It’s a soft, undone, and with its pleats and gathers in all the right places, very flattering look. It’s also a style that can be played around with for day wear, but translates easily into sultry evening attire or sophisticated event wear. The Greek goddess look is the ultimate classic.
Sole searching
Mount Maunganui photographer and creative Tasha Meys, better known on Instagram as @tastefullytash, shares her top winter footwear picks from SOLECT.
Mount Maunganui photographer and creative Tasha Meys, better known on Instagram as @tastefullytash, shares her top winter footwear picks from SOLECT
Boots in
“A high-quality black boot is a staple in my winter wardrobe. Pair with jeans, winter dresses or smart trousers.”
Timberland Cortina Valley Chelsea Boot $360
Cream please
“I’m all about a sneaker which works as well for a run up the Mount as it does with jeans for a casual vibe.”
ASICS Gel 1130 $190
Cosy toes
“These pink sheepskin slippers feel like a fluffy hug for my feet. Snuggly indoors yet easy-wear outdoors due to their hard soles.”
EMU Australia Mayberry Slippers $80
Shear comfort
“A shearling-lined cold-weather version of these classic Birks is a dream. Wear with cute socks for extra warmth. They feel like slippers but are totally acceptable to wear in public!”
Birkenstock Arizona Shearling $350
Star turn
“I love that the lift gives you that extra bit of height! Leather is warmer than the canvas version, so perfect with jeans for cooler days, or a dress and trench for an evening look.”
Chuck Taylor All Star Leather Lift Low $150
Support local
“Alongside a black boot, I love a brown boot in winter for a softer look. Ideal with blue denim and a white shirt.”
Chaos & Harmony Montreux Boot $390
Feel-good fashion
Sister boutiques Urban Vogue and George Edward keep fashion at the forefront.
Sister boutiques Urban Vogue and George Edward keep fashion at the forefront.
Words Nicky Adams | Photos Salina Galvan
Buying clothes is a bona fide spirit lifter. There is joy (and adrenalin) involved in finding that perfect outfit, but a huge part of the experience is being comfortable and confident in your surroundings when you make those choices. Vicki Burns, owner operator of Urban Vogue and George Edward in Bethlehem, and her team are exactly the sort of people you want to be there to help with those – sometimes complicated decisions.
Despite 30 years in the industry, Vicki has not been caught up in the smoke and mirrors of the fashion world. What drives her is knowing that her customers can enjoy all the attractions of a boutique surroundings but have access to attainable but individual pieces. With her own style leaning towards a casual steampunk aesthetic, what Vicki loves is that she has found her niche in the market by bringing her client base a range of looks that are influenced not by her personal preference, but by good style and high quality rather than moving trends. In fact, she tells me, her best feedback is when customers come back and say, “I’ve thrashed that piece – can I have something similar?” Not, she laughs, the best business model in a trend-led industry.
Her small team are, like Vicki, there to help with their considerable experience and expertise, rather than to tell people they look good to secure a sale. The success of this ethos is reflected in the fact that the majority of the two stores enjoy predominantly repeat custom. The team have mostly been with Vicki from the very beginning, or the early days. Urban Vogue was established 16 years ago when Bethlehem Town Centre was developed, and Vicki took over George Edward a year or so later. She finds it works well having the two stores so close together. There’s a slightly different emphasis on stock, with Urban Vogue catering to those looks that you won’t find elsewhere, and George Edward leaning more towards classic, modern chic. But with the same staff working between the two shops and having knowledge of the entire stock, there’s a synergy that means customers have the benefit of a far more extensive pool that they would first have thought. The team of Kim, Sonia, Robyn, Megan and Donna all bring a unique skill set, from Sonia with her flair for individualism, to Megan who is an instore professionally trained colour consultant, able to assist customers with their best looks.
The concept of doing things a little uniquely filters from the looks to the interior design of the stores, specifically Urban Vogue, which has been set out in the style of wardrobes. Typically arranged by colour, it streamlines the process for the customer. Vicki holds that for the store her initial mission statement was “to develop a space where people could come and tell us the dog’s sick or the bird’s having its beak clipped
– I wanted a friendly space. For people to come and connect. And that’s what they did – and those people have carried on supporting us.” When it comes to the labels held in stores the idea was “trying to get things that were a little bit outside the square, but not to the point where it’s scary for the consumer.” Over the years the brand choices have evolved organically, as Vicki continues to strive for a feel of exclusivity – along with this, Vicki has her own unique spin on the styling of her pieces. This, she puts down to her personality. “It’s really good, because although there are other lovely independent boutiques locally, we’ve all got quite different personalities – and that comes through in our stores.” Along with the different looks is an emphasis on body inclusivity and wearability. “I want things people will wear above all else. I don’t buy for a fleeting trend; I buy for my customer. And they need quality and affordability.”
Vicki’s boutiques are well known for the fabulous fashion shows they put on locally – often for a charitable cause. She loves the community aspect of these and sees it as a way of giving back to her loyal customers as much as showcasing her lines. As someone uncomfortable with limelight and fanfare, Vicki is level-headed about the perceived glamour of the fashion world. Instead, she thrives on representing the ordinary woman in fashion’s extraordinary world. What she does love is “the changing landscape – you don’t know from one day to the next what you’re going to get out of the industry. I might not buy the passing trends if it’s no good for my customers, but I love to look at them, keep up to speed, to feel the fabric and know that the quality is being upheld.” For Vicki and the team at Urban Vogue and George Edward, the real joy is customer service, satisfaction and the camaraderie that fashion produces.
Style status
Wardrobe staples to see you through autumn and beyond
Wardrobe staples to see you through autumn and beyond.
Words Nicky Adams
Leather A-Line Skirt $799, Gathered detail blouse (sandstone or petal) $229, countryroad.co.nz
LOOKS TO LAST
The beauty of fashion in the southern hemisphere is the ability to be one step ahead of the game. Technically, what is being rolled out in the February fashion shows for European winters won’t yet be in our stores; however, fashion has increasingly embraced the view of longevity over trends. This means much of what is being predicted for next year can actually be sourced from the autumn trends hitting the stores now. Gone are the days of crazy catwalks; post-COVID what we’re seeing are multiple everyday looks for everyday women, with just enough pizzazz here and there to keep us fully engaged.
One look that is sure to catch the imagination is the return of layering a dress over pants. For many, this never really went away, but revived for this year the styling is tunic-style dresses with sheer fabrics and lots of detailing in hemlines. Another firm favourite is the shirt dress which, accessorised with an oversized tote, is almost painfully practical but still ultra-glamorous when the shirt dress has been well cut. Key things to look for in this universally flattering style is a cinched waist, full fit-and-flare skirt, roomy top that will accommodate – not squash – the bust, long sleeves for this time of year and, perhaps most importantly, a good weight of fabric that will fall beautifully around your legs. Pair with chunky Chelsea boots or loafers. Another absolute wardrobe staple is a leather skirt; team this with a high-fashion trend of a blouse with exaggerated cuffs falling below the fingertips, and totally elevate a piece of classic styling.
Fitted denim shirt $75.90, ZW fitted cargo jean $109, zara.com/nz
BACK TO THE FUTURE
Warning: This is not a drill. Double denim is back. When you’ve seen it on Michelle Obama, you know that it’s coming our way; more polished and structured than some of the attempts we’ve seen before, this designer interpretation of the Canadian Tuxedo is seriously wearable. Throw on a pair of denim boots, trainers or shoes and you have the trifecta.
For party pieces, the cut-out continues to dominate – from the midriff to side, to back, depending on which area the wearer is most confident revealing. The latest look is one-sided oblique cutouts.
If this feels too adventurous for a pub quiz night, then the slash neck is a hot look that is subtle but super stylish.
Grunge is having a revival, but this time it’s being used in a more sophisticated way as a detail rather than an entire look. Think faux leather or shearling vest over a dress. The sleeveless silhouette is huge, particularly pairing a tailored waistcoat with matching pants, and the fitted look avoids the androgynous feel often associated with suiting.
Asymmetric sequinned dress $109, zara.com/nz
MIXING IT UP
Metallics are still omnipresent, to the extent that not only are silver and gold mainstays as partywear, but they have also been translated into daywear. Animal print, particularly leopard, has managed to work its way right up to cult classic status, while faux snake is fabulous for footwear. Velvet has been re-imagined and is the perfect fabric for autumn leading into winter with options for age, budget and taste. From dresses to coats to blouses, look to the celebrity set and you’ll see that the velvet pantsuit is having a moment. With careful styling, tartan, usually seen as a traditional trend, can be modernised to look more chic and less conventional. Spring/Summer 2023 runways were awash with plaid, which means it will be a transitional pattern, so for longevity pick something in a lighter fabric to carry through and pick a style that puts a twist on a classic piece.
LOW-KEY LUXURY
Recreate an outfit to add some classic elevation.
Stealth wealth, quiet luxury – all buzzwords for a style of dressing that is understated, empowering and universally flattering. Essentially polished minimalism, it is a look that has been reflected in several blockbuster shows over the last few years – from Shiv Roy in Succession to Sophie Whitehouse (played by Sienna Miller) in Anatomy of a Scandal. Even if you don’t recognise the characters, you’ll know the style. This elegant, classic dress code is one that has been bubbling below the surface in the form of luxe minimalism for some time. So, when it comes to its current popularity, it’s hard to know if life has imitated art, or if these shows have picked up on a micro trend and made it mainstream. What we do know is that this vibe is one that can be successfully translated to every wardrobe and every figure.
While I’ve always admired the sleek streamlined look, it’s never one I’ve considered until I saw Sienna Miller looking utterly serene whilst she
diced vegetables in a white (possibly cashmere) cardigan. Such was her poise and beauty that I decided I, too, should look like this as I loom over my chopping board. As the series progressed, and she showcased look after look of sartorial mastery, my obsession continued, along with a determination to recreate as many of the outfits as possible. Essentially the silhouette is centred around clean classic lines, and beautiful tailoring, and while Sienna Miller’s comes with a hefty price tag
with pieces from The Row, Celine and Max Mara, this doesn’t need to be the case to achieve a similar look.
A start point is a few key pieces, which lend themselves perfectly to autumnal dressing. Head-to-toe neutral tones are a baseline, with shades of white, cream, beige and biscuit as building blocks. White is a strong colour, and there is an immediate elevation of a look when the shade is perceived to be hard to wear – in fact within this colour wheel there will be a hue for every skin tone. In terms of the practicality of wafting around your kitchen in winter white with no apron, this is where choice of fabric is key. Rather than pure silks or cashmere, if your lifestyle is robust, consider polyester and viscose. Something that is machine-washable and man-made is far more durable and stain-resistant, even in pale shades.
Pivotal to achieving this dress code is the concept of a capsule wardrobe, so a number of pieces that can be interchanged, and that will all look fabulous together. A beautiful camel coat would be considered a statement piece, as would a timeless trench. Mixing textures will give added interest to balance the subtlety of the colour shades, so wool skirts or pants worn with silky shirts become striking, or a thick knit jumper over a satin slip dress. Skinny fitting turtle/roll necks styled with straight or wide leg pants is elegant in the extreme – proportions are an important element of the look. Tweed is a fabric as timeless as is it sophisticated, and is currently having its own moment, so a Chanel-esque jacket would be perfect. A tailored feel is more important than figure hugging, and there’s absolutely room for a few vintage pieces within this wardrobe.
It is the notable absence of labels in this look that has led to the coining of the term ‘stealth wealth’, and the reason why it is so easy to recreate this high end look on a lesser budget. There are multiple New Zealand and Australian designers who produce stunning pieces that fit into this aesthetic – Bassike, Jac + Jack, Silk Laundry and Caroline Sills, to name a few.
To sum it up, “quiet luxury” is elegance without a hint of flashiness. With the key components of neutral colours, high-quality fabrics and a perfect fit – the result is understated at its best; soft power dressing has never been so achievable.
FASHION FORECAST
Winter is coming – and so are these cool, fun fashion trends.
BRIGHT NIGHTS
Winter will be anything but dull. The continuing fixation with bright colourways scream energy and excitement. Pantone’s colour for 2023 is Viva Magenta – alongside this will be fuchsia, vibrant orange, cherry red, even chartreuse: Statement dressers will love the saturation. While head-to-toe block colour is a key look, a vibrant hue can be significantly toned down; try khaki, which is not only on trend, but will also match with multiple bright sheens.
COMING UP ROSES
Emerging trends have seen the traditional floral print superseded by a three-dimensional iteration. The appliqué effect is being used as an embellishment on everything from skirts to dresses to bags; one step further is the garment itself translated as an entire floral fabric structure. Early adopters will find it’s an easy trend to incorporate as an accessory – a fake flower choker around the neck will put you straight in the fashion set.
GOTHIC GLAM
As the darker days draw in there’s a bit of a push for a city-girl aesthetic; this preppy vibe with a bit of goth/grunge thrown in draws a little from the Netflix hit show Wednesday, which has popularised the appeal of A-line silhouettes, Mary Janes and Peter Pan/crisp white collars. The leading colourway for this look is black and white – moody but chic. If you’re having a déjà vu moment with gothic mini dresses and feature collars, you’d be right. It’s all very 2010.
STRAIGHT LACED
The lace-up knee boot is a sophisticated take on the still-super-popular combat boot. A dressier version than the comfort-oriented lug-soled combat sees a chunky or skinny heel with laces running up the back or even the side. Those wedded to walking distances be assured the knee-high combat will be a winter staple.
Suits you, sir
Jason Dovey is known as the best in the biz. Even 007 himself would approve of his crisp collars and on-trend tailoring.
Jason Dovey is known as the best in the biz. Even 007 himself would approve of his crisp collars and on-trend tailoring.
Words Nicky Adams | Photos Salina Galvan + supplied
Seeing a Bond & Co tailored suit worn in 2019 by Black Cap captain Kane Williamson, to meet the late Queen Elizabeth II at a tea party at Buckingham Palace, was a career-defining moment for Bond & Co owner Jason Dovey. Over the years he has built up a loyal client base of repeat customers that includes everyone from high-profile local businessmen to sportsmen, politicians to musicians – but when it comes to his threads being showcased at a royal palace, as Jason says, “That doesn’t happen to everyone in their lifetime.”
Jason, his wife Michelle and the Bond & Co team do, however, consider each event that they dress their clients for of equal importance, whether it be a wedding, black-tie occasion, board meeting or simply someone investing in a cornerstone piece for the wardrobe. “I love making people look good and feel good – that’s the drive behind it,” says Jason. “It’s about sending them out feeling a million bucks.” There’s care and attention for each and every customer: “It’s not a help yourself, that’ll do set-up.”
Jason is a stalwart of high-end men’s fashion in Tauranga, having started in the trade in 1987, initially at Warnocks before moving to Molloy’s Menswear on Devonport Road in 1992. In 2012 he bought the business, rebranding to Bond & Co in 2015. The store still proudly sits on Devonport Road, albeit on the other side – a small change (along with a stylish refit) that, despite the continuity, denotes a fresh feel.
Over time, Jason has watched menswear both evolve and, in some cases, circle back. Over the last six or seven years, he has seen a resurgence of black tie and the tuxedo (“You can’t beat a guy in a tux – it’s just a transformation”). However, for less formal attire, there is a trend towards soft suiting of blazers and jackets. As Jason says, “The office is not as corporate as it used to be. Yes, people are still wearing a suit, but there’s a lot more blazers, smart-casual chinos and that sort of thing being worn.” This move to more casual workwear has prompted stylish alternatives. “Shirting has become more interesting,” Jason muses. “There’s more variety with, trims, buttons and so on to make the shirt the statement and pop. Men have definitely become more adventurous in the last 10 years and are prepared to wear a floral shirt.”
An exploration of a wider tonal palette for wedding and occasion suiting is another development, with green currently the strongest colour leading the way. Jason illustrates the point by bringing out a rich forest-green suit jacket with contrasting stitching – this, together with a linen lichen-green jacket has been flying off the shelves; the jacket paired with black pants proves a striking look for a wedding party.
While eventwear is a motivator for purchasing an off-the-rack or tailored suit, in general, formalwear has been updated by the “slim fit”. This is particularly appealing to the younger market, as it feels fresh and modern. Developments in fabrics have also increased the wearability of a suit. While wool is still the most popular fabric, and velvet is the ultimate in luxe and polish, for everyday wear the addition of stretch to classic wool is looking to be a game-changer. Demonstrating the classic male crossed-arm flex/hunch move, Jason illustrates just how great it is to have fabric with movement “for men sitting on an aeroplane, or just for comfort in general.” The fabrics used for suiting are sourced from fine Italian and British mills, with the main suppliers the illustrious Rembrandt and Holland & Sherry.
Along with roots steeped in the culture of high-quality tailoring and impeccable service, Bond & Co is a very modern entity. Providing head-to-toe styling with accessories such as shoes, ties and pocket squares, there is a wide range of off-the-shelf shirting, suits, jackets and pants, along with selected pieces of casualwear, all of which can be quickly altered to fit to perfection via the onsite alterations workshop, operated by Michelle (she also caters to casual walk-ins for both menswear and womenswear). Should a client be after a made-to-measure piece, the choice of fabric is enormous, and typically a garment would take approximately
six weeks to make. Tailored shirting is produced in New Zealand in around four weeks – a bespoke waistcoat can be made in store with an even more impressive turnaround time. Additionally, Bond & Co offers the option of occasionwear hire.
While specialising in menswear, Jason and Michelle have recently extended their repertoire to include a curated collection of womenswear. It made sense to offer the ladies – who would often be in store assisting their partners – something to browse. Along with a beautiful line of shirting, the option of made-to-measure appeals to women who appreciate the sartorial value of a tailored garment; equally for those that can never find the perfect piece off-the-rack, a bespoke fitted investment piece is invaluable. This move is just another innovation that Jason and Michelle have introduced, proving that beneath the traditional exterior is a business with its finger on the pulse.
Style Status
Wardrobe staples to see you through spring and beyond.
Wardrobe staples to see you through spring and beyond.
Words Nicky Adams
Everything Essential – A Spring Checklist
It may be hard to believe, but the most on-trend spring/summer essential for 2022 is the humble white tank top. The perfect combination of staple cum fashion set favourite, whether as a foundation piece with jeans or
as a tool to make a sleeker bottom feel more casual, the tank fits with the quality basics and timeless piece aesthetic that is strong for spring. If you’re looking to zhoosh your look up a little then a halter neck top can be a striking aesthetic and comes in many variants, both the runways and the shops are full of crisscross and ornate loop details. To change the mood up from spring florals try gingham – it’s fresh, timeless and the ultimate transitional print.
However exciting it feels to be shedding those extra layers, a jacket is still a must-have. The bomber jacket is well and truly back: when Rhianna and Hailey Bieber are both wearing it you know it’s officially a thing – wear it slouchy and oversized. Get ahead of the game with a cropped blazer; a change of pace from all the large-fit jackets that are in vogue, cropped is a look that will be in full force by Autumn. Meanwhile the love/love relationship with the biker jacket continues. Coming in a spectrum of styles from form fitting to funky to oversized, this is another item that transcends age and figure type and looks pretty blooming good on everyone.
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Most wanted this season.
The Future Is Bright
This spring it’s time to trade in the traditional tan two-piece. While we’ve seen a prevalence of pink suits coming through strongly, as the season progresses there will be a rainbow of options. Bright colours are one of the biggest trends, and if you’re not feeling overly confident with this degree of high impact then pops of colour with jumpers or bags can still make a bold statement. Workwear takes on a whole new hue with these saturated colours; add this to the oversized silhouette (throw in a padded shoulder jacket), and we have another 80s throwback look. However, if the suit is well tailored the wide legs will balance the look and bring in more of a Katharine Hepburn feel.
Night Follows Day
Giving off the Grecian vibe, a dramatic look for this season is draping, where beautiful fabrics waterfall across the body, in pleats and ruching. This style is not only incredibly flattering but also elegant in the extreme. While it’s the perfect evening look, it can work well for daytime if created from the right fabric. A mini-skirt has been lauded as the seasonal must-have, however a maxi style is equally on point, and so much easier and more practical to wear. The long tube design fits with the Y2K revival and is surprisingly versatile – it’s also a magnificent way to hide any pale pre-summer legs. Fabrics with movement and a bit of stretch suit this style best, whether fine knits or jerseys, the feel is fluid. Accessorise with this season’s hot material, a raffia bag, and achieve a casual but elegant spring feel.
Cool conscience
Swing into spring with Moochi’s most sustainable collection yet. Natura offers organic and eco-conscious wardrobe refreshers, designed for effortless contemporary dressing.
Swing into spring with Moochi’s most sustainable collection yet. Natura offers organic and eco-conscious wardrobe refreshers, designed for effortless contemporary dressing.
