Body in balance

Rotorua’s Polynesian Spa is the perfect place to learn the incredible benefits of calming your mind and healing your body.

Words Hayley Barnett

“Find your dimmer switch,” our mindfulness teacher murmurs soothingly.

Meditation expert and aromatherapist Helena Keenan’s constant calm demeanor is a result of 30 years of meditation practice at some of the Pacific’s most luxurious wellness centres. Right now I’m sitting in the newly refurbished Mahoney Wellness Room at Rotorua’s Polynesian Spa for their Mindful Moments Retreat in the hopes that some of that calmness will rub off on my frazzled, stressed-to-the-hilt self. But finding my inner dimmer switch isn’t something that comes naturally. In fact, at this point, I’m not even sure I have one.

For the past seven years Helena has been guiding visitors through two-day retreats to reset their intentions and commitment to wellness – both mentally and physically – to come away feeling calm, inspired and recharged. Over two days we will bathe in geothermal mineral waters, practise yoga, walk in nature, undergo spa therapies, learn about nutrition and meditate our troubles away. It’s the kind of thing a tired mother can usually only dream of.

When I drag myself in on the first day after a terrible night’s sleep I’m met with the friendly, energetic yoga teacher, Nadine Prinsloo. She introduces the group to simple movements designed to stretch and relax our bodies after a soak in the world-famous geothermal spa. She gives us a rundown on the history of yoga, why we should do it, and what sort of benefits we'll receive from stretching our bodies at least three times a week. We learn how to breathe with our stomachs and how breathing in through one nostril and out the other will instantly calm your nervous system. Nadine has gone through her fair share of body trauma over the years, which is how she got into yoga in the first place, and educates us on how to listen to your body. “If you listen to the body when it whispers, you won’t have to listen to it when it shouts,” she explains wisely. 

Though the yoga session wasn’t at all strenuous, the group had certainly worked up an appetite. Which was just as well considering the enormous lunch laid out for us. The delicious, healthy and balanced meal set us up for our silent trek through Rotorua’s Redwoods forest. 

After an hour of fresh air we were back in time for our talk on maintaining a healthy gut, led by resident naturopath, Jessica Tumata-Lane. The miracles that can happen just by making subtle changes to your diet are not only proven by science, says Jess, but also in the mental clarity and the body’s energy, which you will notice almost immediately. I almost feel bad for the gelato we’ve just consumed from the spa café beforehand.

The next day we’re led directly to the spa for what I thought would be some relaxing R&R. This time, we’re on the retreat side, which of course includes a cold plunge pool. With Nadine’s words ringing in our ears about listening to your body before it shouts, we instead plunge forth and hold ourselves under for what seems like an eternity but is really just 30 seconds. We then run straight into the now-prickly 40-degree Celcius pool to warm up. Apparently this is good for you. 

It’s just as well that our spa treatment is up next. I’ve chosen the spa’s signature Himalayan Salt Polish and Herbal Oil Massage, a treat for my tight muscles and dry winter skin. Then it’s straight into meditation with Helena, where I nearly fall asleep in the middle of the day. This has never happened to me before. I can barely sleep at night.

Our second delicious lunch brings me back to earth, before venturing out for a walk around the geothermal springs of Lake Rotorua. We’re back in time for some blueberry lemon cake with coconut yoghurt before heading home, our gift bags filled to the brim with lotions and potions to keep our skin looking and feeling its best. I can’t think of a better way to rest and recharge, and I’m already planning my trip back to this geothermal healing centre of wellness. The next retreat goes ahead in July 2024 and I'm very tempted. 

What were my greatest takeaways, Helena asks? It’s not until I’m in the car heading home that I can think of this answer clearly. Always take the time to stop and recuperate, even if you don’t feel you need it. It’s not until you stop that you can really hear your body and mind shouting. That’s when you find your dimmer switch. 

polynesianspa.co.nz/mindful-moments-retreat/

Rediscover Rotorua

This family-friendly geothermal wonderland just keeps getting better.

words Stephanie Taylor

Growing up, I spent a lot of time in Rotorua with my family trout fishing and boating from the old Ohau Channel campground, before it was developed into a resort.

Luckily for my brother and I, our parents then went on to buy an old bach in Ngongotahā so we could keep the lake dream alive. Our love of the area only continued to evolve, with both of us taking up white water kayaking at high school and paddling the Kaituna River regularly.

It was all pretty idyllic, so unsurprisingly my partner Jeff and I jumped at the chance to take our own kids to Rotorua on holiday recently. But at two and four years old, we knew the trip would probably look a little different to my childhood adventures. With throwing them off a sea biscuit not yet an option, we took the chance to experience some of the area’s more wholesome, age-appropriate activities. Coupled with beautiful scenery and incredible hospitality, this city smashes tourism out of the water – for overseas visitors and Bay locals alike.

STAY

With 48 hours to spend in the city, Jeff, Donovan, Daphne and I stayed central at the Millennium Hotel Rotorua. Overlooking the steamy, geothermal end of Lake Rotorua, our rooms felt suspended over the incredible natural surroundings Rotorua is famous for. Our toddlers are morning people, which meant we were all lucky enough to watch the sunrise over the lake creating beautiful, changing scenes through the steam. One of nature’s shows that photos just don’t do justice.

The hotel location is right on the edge of the city centre within a brief stroll to some of our excursions. Free onsite parking, comfortable adjoining rooms, and a lush internal native garden to explore on the way to the breakfast buffet were some of our favourite family-friendly features. Special mention to the bottomless drip coffee at breakfast, and the friendly faces serving it!

Skyline Luge

EAT

Jeff and I were equal parts anxious and excited about this portion of the weekend. Managing our son Donny’s multiple food allergies had meant we’d never been confident enough to eat out as a family before. However, contacting restaurants in advance made us feel ready to finally give it a crack.

Pig & Whistle Historic Pub

Local landmark and crowdpleaser the Pig & Whistle was our first stop for dinner. Being a Friday, we really enjoyed being part of the lively pub atmosphere while still having enough room to move around the table and talk over the music. Seated fireside, Jeff and I enjoyed a selection of the not-so-small plates washed down with a couple of tap beers, while the kids happily devoured their first ever restaurant meals of steak, rice and veges. The amazing wait staff kept checking in on us and made it fun for everyone.

Capers Cafe + Store

Under the same ownership, Capers conveniently had the same chef on shift for our next night, meaning the kids’ dinners were pre-planned and again ran smoothly. In between eating they enjoyed watching a movie in the kids’ room, and with our table positioned just outside Jeff and I were able to enjoy our meals with a side of adult conversation. My nourishing Salmon Poke Bowl was cooked to utter perfection, and Capers’ extensive selection of desserts proved so tempting that slices of Biscoff Cheesecake and their famous Chocolate Mudcake may have made it back to the hotel with us.

Stratosfare Restaurant & Bar

Spoilt for choice once more, the incredible array of freshly prepared food at Stratosfare’s buffet lunch was seriously to die for. Jeff lived the dream and managed to eat his bodyweight in seafood, and we were personally visited by head chef Dan to ensure Donny’s needs were met. With stunning panoramic views of Lake Rotorua from our table and full puku, it was hard to leave, but with kids champing at the bit to get lugeing we eventually tore ourselves away.

Okere Falls Store

Even though our epic escape was coming to an end, I was excited for lunch on the way home at a personal favourite – the Okere Falls Store. Daphne and Don made fast friends to explore the beer garden with, while Jeff and I chatted with locals over a yummy Avo Smash and Grilled Cheese Toastie. With its outdoorsy, community feel, we could have very easily settled in for the afternoon, especially with the largest selection of craft beers in Rotorua on offer.

Rotorua Duck Tours

PLAY

Skyline Rotorua

Luge riding has definitely gone up a notch since my last rodeo! With lit up tunnels, branching tracks and towering dinosaurs, three runs on the Skyline Rotorua Luge went by super fast and left us wanting more. These days there are five tracks and two chairlift lines – which also meant lines were never long, even on a busy Saturday. We were surprised that even two-year-old Daphne absolutely loved it, and neither kids were scared at any point including on the gondola rides – another highlight for spotting rabbits, deer and impressive downhill mountain bikers.

Redwoods Nightlights

Daphne was, however, a little dubious at the Redwoods Nightlights, unfortunately. The suspended bridges moving underfoot weren’t her cup of tea, so while the boys took to the heights Daph and I enjoyed the atmosphere from down below. Which was actually really fun in itself, like being at Disneyland at night time. With sounds and voices all around, there was a cool 3D projection to watch while we waited for the boys, who returned with stories of incredible illuminations amongst the stunning redwoods. We’ll definitely be back once Daphne’s a bit older.

aMAZE me

Polynesian Spa

As a long time visitor of the Polynesian Spa, but first timer in the family pool, I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed it. At 33 degrees, the supervised large pool features a small hydroslide, a shallow toddler section and a deep end. There’s a couple of small hot pools too, but the temperature of the main pool was all we needed for a fun family splash. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good hot swim as much as the next person. But getting drained of energy when you’ve got toddlers is not a vibe.

Rotorua Duck Tours

Speaking of relaxation, Rotorua Duck Tours lulled both kids to sleep at different points. The ex-military trucks are pretty bumpy and loud, creating ideal napping conditions. But with tour guide Olly cracking corny jokes and fact dropping at any given opportunity, Jeff and I were thoroughly entertained throughout and enjoyed learning about the area from a tourist’s perspective. And what better way to sightsee in a lake region than from a WW2 amphibious vehicle? It took us around the Rotorua lakefront, and out and on to the Blue Lake as well as Lake Ōkāreka.

Agrodome Farm Show and aMAZEme

We spent our final morning in Rotorua at the legendary Agrodome Farm Show and aMAZEme, both of which are really suited to young families. What kid doesn’t love a farm animal? Especially when there’s multiple bustling about on stage, and plenty of opportunities to touch and interact with them. Both attractions had amazing play areas for kids and we could have spent an entire day between the two. Thanks to Donny and I, some members of the family managed to complete the maze successfully while others didn’t quite have the patience.