Turkish delight

Bridging Europe and Asia, Nicky Adams explores the melting pot that is Turkey. 

PHOTOS Nicky adams + supplied

Throw Turkey into a travel conversation, and you’re sure to get an animated response. From those that looped it in on their OEs, to those who are fizzing to book their own trip. 

Seen as a rite of passage for many New Zealanders, with the deep connection to Anzac Bay held dear, most Kiwis would admit to this being on the bucket list.

A land that offers diversity in spades, there is the multi-cultural pull of Istanbul, where east really does quite literally meet west, the opportunity to pay your respects at Anzac Bay, the magic of Cappadocia with its homes built into the hills and underground network, and stunning Mediterranean beaches. And this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Exploring the tunnels and caves of Kaymakli underground city.

I visited Istanbul over 20 years ago, and it was a revelation to look at the city again with a fresh perspective. The blend of cultures is something you can’t take for granted and was a real joy to see. Side by side Muslims and Christians rush around, and the city celebrates both faiths with a rich history. The landmarks are of course every bit as spectacular as they appear in the glossy pages of travel mags; yes, there are crowds and queues but time it right and you can get lucky. And it’s certainly worth the wait – the Blue Mosque is majestic, Hagia Sophia breathtaking, the Topkapi Palace a symbol of Ottoman splendour, and the Dolmabahce Palace (on the shore of the Bosphorus) the architecturally innovative  ‘upgraded’ home to the Sultans from the 1800s. Walk through the Yerebatan Underground Basilica Cistern built by the Romans, a strangely beautiful attraction, mesmerising and eerie in equal measure. Meanwhile a trip along the Bosphorus by night lets you hear the beating heart of the city as it shimmers and shines in all its glory.

The balloons create a surreal day-break vista.

It’s hard to resist the most touristy of tourist attractions – a visit to the Grand Bazaar. This is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world dating back to 1453, and the icing on the tourist cake is a guided walk across the rooftop. Showcased in Skyfall, the James Bond movie where Daniel Craig shot across on his motorbike, you’ll find yourself balancing on teeny-weeny ledge ways high above the city, putting one foot tentatively in front of the other. Those with height issues would find this marginally stomach churning (no OSH here) – but the vista below is incredible. Both inside and outside the Bazaar are gazillions of tiny stalls with marketeers peddling their wares; some fabulous, some not so much. It’s hard to get out without having committed to a Turkish rug, which, if you do your research and buy from someone reliable, is potentially the purchase of a lifetime. If you don’t get a rug you have to at least buy the Turkish delight – these delicately flavoured jellies are addictive. The sweet shops are themselves an experience, rammed with ornate delights you’ll likely be regaled with stories of the Ottoman Emperors, the birth of boiled sweets and a million other things you never knew, while being pumped with Turkish coffee and baklava. This is a very hospitable nation.

The ancient, cobbled streets are bathed in baking sunshine but cooled by a breeze from the Baltic – ice cream vendors are everywhere, and pathways are peppered with tiny kittens and wide-eyed cats. Just as you wonder how they’re all so well fed, you see a passerby open their handbag and scatter cat food for these street dwellers. Feeding the strays is apparently a quirk of the city, but with the end game of keeping rats at bay – the Turks are no fools. The tradespeople and cab drivers are also always up for a bit of bartering – it doesn’t take long to get past the embarrassment of a good haggle.

Istanbul’s grand Blue Mosque.

Istanbul is a feast not just for the senses, but also the stomach. I chose
to do a walking food tour through the city; it was wonderful touring the back streets, where cafes are crammed into the narrowest lanes, serving Turkish tea to customers on slouchy sofas. Stopping at historic sights and trying every type of traditionally-made Turkish fare from breakfast eggs to spicy koftas and Doner Kebab, I was loving the rich, flavoursome dishes – until I was faced with the minced lamb intestines, at which point I became extremely squeamish. The older parts of Istanbul are captivating and sit alongside the newer flasher areas – as a city it certainly feels wealthy, and the lavish hotels reflect this – the tourists are as diverse as the natives. Staying at an international chain certainly offered every luxury – but came at a cost, Turkey is not the cheap country some remember from their backpacking days. It’s easy to get around, taxis are plentiful, but some run without meters so it’s worth having an idea of fare otherwise you’re fair game to be charged a very steep tourist rate. As a place with a turbulent past, it was heartening that everywhere you looked there was a strong police presence, and entrance to every hotel and mall involved a bag screen. 

Moving on from Istanbul, an air-conditioned coach ride to Anzac Bay was an easy way to travel, and still allowed us to get there in good time to thoroughly immerse ourselves in the experience. It is so many things to so many people, and deserves the time spent walking along the beach and meandering through the gravestones, reading the inscriptions and thinking about the huge sacrifice and loss. It’s emotional on a different level, even if you have no direct link to the fallen soldiers. The on-site museum is also a place of reverence; nicely laid out to give visitors the opportunity to become engrossed in the moment.

Akbas Cemetery and Memorial honouring fallen Turkish soldiers during Gallipoli.

Travelling onto Cappadocia, a region of central Turkey known for its otherworldly landscapes, is to experience a different side to Turkey altogether. Soft volcanic rock formations amongst undulating hillsides feel closer to a film set than reality. Again, the history is at the forefront, as you weave through dusty streets, with houses, hotels, bars, and restaurants all burrowed deep into the rock face. Staying in a boutique hotel with rooms set high in the rocks, this felt luxurious, even though the room was reminiscent of something from The Flintstones. Of course, Cappadocia is home to the balloon rides – and as someone who visualised my time would be spent poolside with feet firmly on the ground, I was not planning on adding this to my ‘to-do’ list. Nevertheless, I dug deep, and I’m so glad that I did – the whole experience felt reassuringly safe; drifting cloudlike above beautiful dusty landscapes, the skies filled at sunrise with a fleet of colourful balloons was a natural as well as physical high. This area is peppered with ancient underground labyrinthine cities built by residents sheltering from invading forces, and for the non-claustrophobic, a tour through Kaymakli, the most historic of them all, is a must. Thought to date back to as early as the fourth century BC it’s insane to think whole communities lived self-sufficiently underground for years at a time – and even more crazy to think for some it was as recent as the second world war.

Istanbul’s Eastern and Western influences, create a dynamic city rich in history and culture.

If you want artisanal keepsakes, then this is the place to find them, as silver and local pottery are the artefacts to shop for in this part of Turkey. Ornate pieces are hard to resist, and there are plenty of manufacturing shops that mean you can be confident you’re buying the real deal. A visit to this area wouldn’t be complete without exploring the famous Fairy Chimneys. Located deep in the dusty hillsides, these natural marvels are simply incredible. Wandering among these distinctive landscapes, you can’t help but be awestruck at the natural wonders of this country.

The intricate vaulted ceilings of the Blue Mosque.

With temperatures that can reach heady heights, the beaches of Turkey are tempting, but can get crowded. Spring and Autumn are lovely times
to visit, especially if you want to do lots of sightseeing. In Turkey everything is diverse – from the landscapes to the cuisine – and it’s this that makes every step of the trip feel fulfilling and joyous. With an abundance on offer, it’s fair to say Turkey leaves you wanting more.

Twinkle toes

Liz French skied the slopes of Canada’s Sun Peaks and Big White resorts, and it made her feel like dancing.

photos Liz French + Lindy Ellison + supplied

“Skiing is like dancing; the snow is your music,” said Olympic gold medallist Nancy Greene, who calls Sun Peaks home and is a wonderful ambassador. I was privileged to ski in a group with the woman named Canada’s female athlete of the 20th century in 1999 for her prowess and contribution to the sport.

Nancy’s 80 now, but she still skis like a teenager. She generously shared her story and tips for improving our skiing (“Stay on the balls of your feet”), taking us where we might not have otherwise gone – notably the ski cross course, on which you bounce over humps and race around well-cambered corners.

After a couple of cloudy but satisfyingly snowy days, Sun Peaks lived up to its name with bright blue skies and gloriously groomed pistes. My partner and I arrived there from Big White, which also lived up to its reputation as ‘Big Whiteout’. We had six murky days, but the payoff was snow you float through. It’s not like in New Zealand, where heavy cloud cover means skiing by braille. The trees provide definition and the wide, obstacle-free pistes instil confidence.

The slightly eerie feeling of skiing in the mist was enhanced by the sight of ‘snow ghosts’. Big White’s known for these trees on the upper slopes that get so snowbound they take on a sculptural form. To add to the sense of surreal, we went night skiing one evening. One long run is illuminated by lamps that throw pools of light on the snow, the patches of dark between them slightly disconcerting till you get the hang of it.

Members of Liz’s tour group - fast and furious meets sedate.

Skiing in Canada is delightfully different to skiing in New Zealand. Think long, wide, tree-framed pistes groomed to perfection, often with several centimetres of powder laid seductively on top. Sun Peaks has a signature trail, five miles (that’s 8km) from Top of the World to the base. The colder, north-facing side of the resort, Morrisey, has lots of glade skiing; on the south-facing side, Sundance and Sunburst have longer, sweeping trails. If Big White is whiting out, skiing the Black Forest side affords ample visibility. When the sky clears, it’s great to head to the Gem Lake area and the powder runs, most of which we skied without much visibility but with good guides.

The only queues we saw were on the main chairlifts when they opened in the morning, especially on a powder day. Most lifts allow skiers to take green (easy), blue (intermediate and so much fun) or black (advanced) trails down, meaning even amateur skiers can reach the top to enjoy the view.

We book our snow holidays through Auckland’s Ski Travel Specialists, and this year joined one of their group trips that come with the benefit of tour leaders. Ōhope couple Linda and Stephen Clews have been hosting ski trips for years and, as well as facilitating fun, share their knowledge of the fields. I mostly chose to ski with them, as they split the group into fast and furious (usually me!) and slightly more sedate skiers. We also took advantage of the snow hosts.

These usually retired, keen skiers volunteer their time to take visitors on tours of the fields they know and love. The ones we met said they enjoy Kiwis, who they find are usually game for anything.

Skiers need fuel, and both resorts offer a good range of eating, drinking (and shopping) options, though Sun Peaks’ village is more extensive than Big White’s. We even found good coffee, becoming regulars at the Tea Bar at Big White, and Bolacco and Vertical cafés at Sun Peaks. Costs escalate with tax and tips, but hey, you’re on holiday.

There’s plenty to do if you want a change from skiing or snowboarding. We could have gone ice skating, snow shoeing, tubing, sleigh riding, fat biking and axe throwing. I bowed to my partner’s desire to go snowmobiling and spent two hours squawking from the back seat as we shot along the trails, stopping to admire views and to thaw out at a warming hut also used by cross-country skiers. I much preferred dog sledding – sitting in a low-slung sleigh with a musher behind us to ‘steer’ the seven enthusiastic, well cared for canines swooping us along tree-lined trails and out to a frozen lake.

Skiing in Canada gives me a heady mix of ego-boosting snow and spectacular scenery, the adrenaline rush of gravity-enforced speed curbed and increased by skill, and the company of like-minded people. I can’t wait till I get to dance on snow again.

California dreaming

Catherine Sylvester and her family escaped the Kiwi winter for a scenic coastal road trip in sunny California, hitting up the best the Golden State has to offer along the way.

The Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

Four weeks, one state, multiple Costco lunches with mostly fabulous weather, and I can safely say we love California. Flying into San Francisco and departing from Los Angeles meant renting the biggest car I’ve ever seen, and hundreds of miles covered in between. 

First stop: San Francisco. Steep streets, Mrs Doubtfire, the Summer of Love and the painted lady houses of Full House fame. The presence of two iconic structures looms large over this northern California city – the Golden Gate Bridge and former prison Alcatraz. Both are situated over the harbour – one a conduit of movement and travel, the other an insurance against it. We tackled both with equal enthusiasm.

Golden Gate Bridge

Hiring bikes in town, we cycled along the waterfront in beautiful sunshine, pulling off jumpers and reapplying sunscreen. Upon reaching
the bridge, we entered a low-hanging, chilly cloud, causing the rapid redonning of clothing. Such is San Francisco. To the accompaniment of harbour fog horns, we made our way across the bridge and onto the adorable tourist town of Sausalito for burgers and ice creams back in the sunshine before the ferry ride home.

The island of Alcatraz.

Alcatraz Island

Make sure you book well in advance for Alcatraz as tickets sell out fast. We took the first ferry of the day, which was wise, as the island fills up steadily with tourists. A self-guided tour through the former maximum security federal prison allows you to move at your own pace and get all the photos you like. A fascinating look at a self-contained island and penitentiary that was home not only to some of America’s most notorious criminals, like Al Capone and The Birdman of Alcatraz, but hundreds of guards, employees and their families.

Locked up at Alcatraz. 

The gift shop at the end of the tour meant books for the road for me, written by those who grew up on the island, detailing their quite normal lives in a quite unusual setting.

El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a 3000ft climb from base to summit.

Yosemite National Park

Depending on road conditions, the drive to Yosemite takes around four hours from San Francisco, and the scenery is stunning.

We stayed in cabins at Thousand Trails Yosemite Lakes and felt very Bear Grylls as we roasted marshmallows for s’mores over an open fire. Although there was no foraging for bear droppings or whatever it is Grylls dines on, we still felt quite rustic.

Squirrel, chipmunk and deer sightings were big winners with our kids, though I did face a conundrum when a cute skunk sidled up to the campfire. How to move it on without alarm, thereby causing the release of its bespoke odour? Thankfully, a quiet “Shoo!” and soft clap of the hands did the trick.

California Tunnel Tree, Mariposa Grove, with a hole cut in 1895 to allow horses and buggies to pass through.

Emerging from Tunnel View into Yosemite National Park itself is breathtaking. Heavy snows last winter meant waterfalls were the fullest and most powerful they’d been in 50 years. We were fortunate to be there, as only weeks prior to our trip the park was closed due to flooding caused by the melting snow.

Mariposa Grove is worth the hike for the enormous sequoia, and a gentle ride on hired bikes to the Mirror Lake is also very manageable. Due to the change in the volume of the waterfalls, the Misty Trail hike up to Vernal Falls was more like the Torrential Trail, but quite spectacular and well worth the effort.

Pacific Coast Highway

On down the coast to the old fishing town of Monterey, then the exquisite artist colony of Carmel-by-the-Sea, and on to San Luis Obispo – home of the bubble-gum wall (exactly what it sounds like), and the one-of-a-kind Madonna Inn (nothing to do with either the virgin or the singer).

Carmel-by-the-Sea, an artist colony. 

Individually themed rooms with names like Caveman, Fabulous 50s, and Hearts and Flowers make the Inn a unique experience, and while we didn’t stay there this trip, a housekeeper was kind enough to let us take a peek. Definitely on our list of future accommodations.

Horse riding at Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo.

A leisurely meander across picturesque hills on horses from the Inn’s Trail Rides tested my courage. Snakes, spiders and the most nauseating of roller coasters I’m up for, but I am a little nervy around our equine friends. Thankfully I was gifted the docile Cherokee, to whom I softly whispered, “Please be nice!” all the way up the hill, and “Thank you for being nice!” all the way down.

Even if you’re not staying at the inn, you must grab a stool at the restaurant counter and order an American-sized slab of pink champagne cake and a soda. Look around the Barbie-pink explosion of finery that is the Steak House, and sneak into the world-famous men’s washroom with waterfall urinal – but best have a male friend check the coast is clear first!

World famous Steak House at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo.

Malibu and Los Angeles

Other highlights of a jam-packed trip were dinner on the sand at Paradise Cove in Malibu, watching Clueless by the pool and under the stars engulfed in the heady scent of jasmine at The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, dining on wiener schnitzel and cabbage in the Danish-style village of Solvang, Dodgers baseball games, and a mandatory marathon two days exploring Disneyland and California Adventure Park.

At a Dodgers baseball game.

Saying goodbye to California is always hard, so as we crammed our shopping into the extra fit-for-purpose bags we’d bought and shared one more fabulous Mexican meal at Pancho’s in Manhattan Beach, plans were already well under way for our next trip to The Golden State. 

The Danish-style village of Solvang.

California travel tips

• School summer holidays run from the beginning of June through August. Tourist spots fill up then. Yosemite in May was perfect, but by mid-June it was apparently packed.

• Prices often look good, but always consider the exchange rate. Most goods will cost more than the price tag indicates due to state taxes that don’t appear until you’re at the checkout.

• When you’ve finished dining, your server will “bring you the check”, and you pay while seated, rather than at the till. It’s not warmly received if you bypass this process.

• Hollywood Boulevard itself is fun and a bit crazy, but you might want to keep the kids close and avoid after dark.

• What we call entrées, Americans call starters. What we call mains, they call entrées. Knowing this can avoid accidental over-ordering of food.

• If you hanker for some simple food, try the slightly fancy supermarket Whole Foods, as they have a self-serve smorgasbord arrangement. It’s not the cheapest, but by week three I was grateful for some plain salads and vegetables.

• We love LA but locals don’t refer to June weather as “June gloom” for nothing. Be prepared you may have a few overcast days.

• If visiting Disneyland or California Adventure Park, it is worth the extra investment of the Lightning Lane Pass, as it significantly cuts down wait times for rides.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Cambodia calling

Liz French travelled to Cambodia and experienced firsthand the work of the
Tauranga-based Cambodia Charitable Trust, meeting her sponsored child and learning about the brutal history of this beautiful country.

Words Liz French

It’s an emotional moment when a 16-year-old high school student weeps with gratitude for the difference you are making in her life. Sear Sun Nary attends Ang Rokha Secondary School in the Takeo province south of Phnom Penh. My $60 per month, less than I spend on lattes, not only helps her but takes the pressure off her family, who live in a home smaller than my lounge, without running water or electricity. Dad farms their couple of cows, two pigs and a few chickens. Mum is a vendor, a precarious job at best. 

Our Cambodian experience began in Phnom Penh. We took a tuk-tuk from the airport to our city hotel, the first of many rides in these rickshaws with open sides pulled by a motorbike, or with the engine incorporated in the more sophisticated ones. We soon discovered that if your group has more than one tuk-tuk, it becomes a race. We shot through frenetic streets full of scooters and a surprising number of late-model cars, all vying for road space in the chaos. 

It’s a culture shock to arrive in a seething city, winterised bodies hitting mid-30s temperatures. The White Mansion, a former American Embassy residence, provided just the oasis of respite we needed, with large air-conditioned rooms, a cool pool and superb breakfasts, all for around NZ$100 a night. Mid-range accommodation is amazingly reasonable in Cambodia.  

The next morning, we hit the markets. The Toul Tompoung, or Russian Market, harks to its popularity with Russian expats in the 1980s. It’s a labyrinth of stalls and sensory sensations where freshly skinned poultry hangs near stands of cheap clothing, trinkets, machinery components and cosmetics. The Phsar Thum Thmei (meaning New Grand Market), better known as Central Market, was completed in 1937, and fans out from a high art deco dome. More of the same in a slightly more salubrious and orderly setting. 

The rarity of old people in Cambodia reflects the way Pol Pot virtually wiped out a generation. You cannot visit Phnom Penh without acknowledging this harrowing history. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (referred to by Khmer Rouge as S21) is a former school where, between 1975 and 1979, thousands endured torture and the exacting of false confessions before death. Rooms that held hundreds are now sparse spaces with subtle suggestions of the horror. Boards display photos of victims, one a commemoration of Kerry Hamill from Whakatane, who was plucked from his yacht off the coast and eventually executed. I felt I held my breath the whole time I was there. 

It was a privilege to visit schools with Denise Arnold, founder/director of the Cambodia Charitable Trust. An immeasurable difference has been made by asking what was needed and delivering just that, by improving teacher training, and supplying basic needs like libraries and toilets. Her (and by default our) welcome reminded me of the way Sir Edmund Hillary was revered for his work with the Sherpas.

I was particularly taken with the children, who seemed equally fascinated by a little white lady. I was mobbed by primary kids on break and trailed by preschoolers, all in pristine uniforms, when visiting one of their homes reinforced their subsistence existence. Travelling with someone who has been there many times meant interesting off-the-beaten-track places, like the homestay where we were hosted overnight and saw their thriving cotton weaving cottage industry.  

I was distressed by the proliferation of single-use plastic. But what can you do when the water is not fit to drink, when life in a third-world country is tough enough without worrying about the state of the planet? We even cleaned our teeth with bottled water. Plastic is strewn along the roads, and when we went to the top of a hill to see some ancient ruins and rural views, we climbed hundreds of steps littered with debris. It seemed that to be clear of rubble you had to be a regal or religious site. The Royal Palace grounds in Phnom Penh were a pristine vision; temples were tidy.

Our travels took us to Kampot, an attractive town with a sprinkling of French colonial architecture where an English woman owned our hotel, a cleverly converted cinema, and a Dutch expat ran our favourite riverfront restaurant; then to Sihanoukville on the coast where it was nicer to see the sea than the effects on the skyline of huge Chinese investment. It was a relief to hop on a plane to Siem Reap.

For many tourists, Cambodia is Siem Reap. They pour into the modern airport, take wide tree-lined streets into the bustling centre, stay in one of hundreds of hotels (ours was jaded but had a resort-quality pool), and eat cheaply in restaurants galore, many on Pub Street. Cocktails for a couple of dollars? Another one, please! Though it was quiet on the tourist front, we saw more Europeans here than the entire trip to date.

Angkor Wat is the drawcard. Angkor Wat means City of Temples and is said to be the largest religious monument in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 160 hectares was built in the 12th Century, the work, our guide told us, of 6,000 men and 4,000 elephants. Endless wall etchings depict bygone battles, and restoration work is never ending. There are several areas, so it pays to have a local guide and a tuk-tuk. The clean, green jungle setting is a balm to the soul. 

I left my soul with the children of Cambodia, with their joy in education and the love and appreciation they showed for these visitors from a far land bringing them a brighter future. Nary, who I sponsor, wants to go to university and have a career. I will support her all the way. 

To sponsor a child through the Cambodia Charitable Trust, visit cctnz.org.nz

Asia Pacific’s culinary gems

If you’re planning your next holiday, there are plenty of destinations around the Asia Pacific region that are culinary gateways to a world of gastronomic adventures.

KINN Capsule Hotel, Singapore

Finding yourself scouring socials to find the best restaurants, cafes or markets to enjoy delicious food when planning for your travels? You’re not the only one! Savouring local cuisine is one of the many ways to immerse yourself in the destination’s culture. In fact, Booking.com’s Travel Confidence Index for 2023 revealed 63 percent of Kiwi travellers said Food and Dining was top of mind for their next travel agenda.*

From the hidden hole-in-the-wall joints of Japan to the bustling night markets of Taiwan, embark on a mouthwatering adventure that is sure to leave your tastebuds dancing with delight. While you’re out and about indulging in local cuisines, you can rest your food-filled bellies at some of the best accommodations recommended by Booking.com — rest assured that your stay will be as remarkable as your dining experiences.

Zagame’s House

Melbourne, Australia

Spanning across various suburbs, travellers can find themselves pampered with choice when strolling down Melbourne’s iconic Lygon Street. Here travellers can find a diverse culinary offering from restaurants boasting a 400 cheese pizza to fiery ramen, depending on which side of the street you’re on.

Where to stay: Located in the heart of historic Carlton, Zagame’s House is a labour of love from hotelier brothers Victor and Robert Zagame. This 97-room hotel showcases the best of modern interior design, luxurious amenities, and sustainable architecture. From the art to the menu, every inch of Zagame’s House is designed to inspire you.

Beauty Avenue Inn

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

Step into a vibrant tapestry of flavours, colours and cultural experiences at Taiwan’s Liuhe Night Market, nestled in the heart of the city of Kaohsiung. This bustling market plays host to a multitude of food stalls offering Taiwan’s most tantalising street food. From fresh seafood delicacies to the delectable bubble tea that Taiwan is renowned for, each bite tells a story you’ll be delighted to partake in.

Where to stay: Beauty Avenue Inn is a short walk from Liuhe Night Market and a short drive from other famous attractions including the Kaohsiung Museum of History and National Science and Technology Museum. Regardless if you’re travelling solo or in a large group, this boutique hotel has a range of rooms to accommodate guests.

Tokyo, Japan

Discover a taste of Japanese comfort food at Homemade Ramen Muginae. Tucked away in the bustling streets of Tokyo, this unassuming hole-in-the-wall store exudes an authentic charm — but don’t be fooled by its humble exterior for the wait for a seat could take up to two hours!

Luckily, the restaurant takes daily reservations starting at 9am, leaving travellers plenty of time to explore the surrounding streets. With one third (33 percent) of Kiwi travellers wanting to immerse themselves in local culture when travelling, tasting authentic cuisine at critically-acclaimed restaurants like this is the way to go.

Where to stay: JR-East Hotel Mets Omori is ideal for those who spend most of their days out and about in the city streets as it’s at the centrepoint of various attractions. The hotel is an eight-minute walk from Homemade Ramen Muginae and is near well-known attractions such as the Atre Omori Shopping Mall and a myriad of shrines such as the Omori Sanno Hie Shrine, Iwai Jinja Shrine and Enno-ji Temple.

Hong Kong

Prepare to be amazed by the culinary excellence of Cheung Hing Kee, a Michelin-recommended street food destination located in the lively streets of Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

Renowned for their Shanghai pan-fried buns, this eatery is a testament to the exceptional gastronomy Hong Kong boasts. Indulge in equally-mouthwatering local dishes including the siu mai and har gow as Cheung Hing Kee presents a symphony of flavours that is sure to capture the true essence of Hong Kong’s street food scene.

Where to stay: If you’re looking for a fancier stay, the Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong boasts seven dining options, including a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant, tapas bar and cocktail lounge for foodies to continue their culinary crusade. The refined Asian-influenced decor blends seamlessly with richly coloured furnishings amid captivating views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong’s iconic skyline. The hotel enjoys a strategic location in the dynamic Tsim Sha Tsui neighbourhood, ideally situated for urban discoveries in Hong Kong’s shopping and entertainment district.

KINN Capsule Hotel

Singapore

Also ranked amongst the Top 10 most searched international destinations by Kiwis this winter season**, bustling Singapore is renowned for its street food culture. A must-not-miss culinary checkpoint is the iconic Maxwell Food Centre, which promises an array of rich flavours and aromas. Situated in the heart of Chinatown, this hawker centre is a culinary melting pot — whether you’re craving a traditional serving of laksa, a beloved national dish of Hainanese chicken rice or looking to beat the heat with a refreshing bowl of ice kacang, options here are plentiful and diverse.

Where to stay: You’ll have a great night’s rest in the spacious yet cosy capsule KINN Capsule Hotel. Boasting a total of 72 capsules designed for your comfort and privacy, this boutique capsule hotel is located in the heart of Singapore, a short distance from Chinatown, the Singapore River and National Gallery as well as a 10-minute walk from Maxwell Food Centre. It features a communal lounge and sun terrace, perfect for socialising on your travels.

*Methodology: Research commissioned by Booking.com and independently conducted by Milieu Insight among a sample of 8,800 respondents across 11 countries and territories across APAC (including 800 from New Zealand).

**Methodology: this report looks at search sessions in April (between 2023-04-03 and 2023-04-16) with check-in dates between July and August (2023-07-01 and 2023-08-31). For comparison figures we looked at search sessions between the same time period last year (2022-04-04 and 2022-04-17, with check-in dates between 2022-07-01 and 2022-08-31).

Business meets bliss

A trip to Sydney gives the opportunity for some work-life balance.

Words Jenny Rudd

Why bother flying somewhere fun if you aren’t going to give yourself the time to enjoy it? This year I’ve been back and forth to Australia for work, and last time I went to Sydney, instead of cramming everything into a couple of days and whizzing back home, I extended the trip and turned it into a wee holiday for one. It was just the right blend of career and care. 

A top-rated apartment in the CBD was found on booking.com, made all the more luxurious as they organised and paid for a taxi on arrival. I did nothing. A message popped up on my booking.com app as soon as I’d landed, telling me where to meet the driver. A great start to the week.

A CITY WALK

I’d been sitting in a plane for many hours, so fresh air and leg stretching were first on the list. An easy loop started at Hyde Park with giant fig trees and the Archibald Fountain, a tribute to the Franco-Australian relationship. You can walk straight over to the Botanical Gardens, and follow the water’s edge round to the money shot - the Sydney Opera House. The garden holds deep cultural significance as it’s situated on the traditional lands of the Cadigal people. You can learn about Aboriginal heritage with artwork, and interactive displays explain indigenous plant uses and the connection between Aboriginal communities and the land. Past the Opera House, I settled in for the French menu at Whalebridge. Warm evening light, a view of the bridge over the harbour and rippling water. I was ready for work the next day.

BONDI

It’s oh so easy to travel in Sydney. I just tapped my Visa card on and off trains, buses and ferries. Staying by Town Hall station made everywhere seem like a few minutes away. I had a meeting in Bondi, so we met at Blackwood Cafe. Bright pink tuna crudo eaten in the sunshine and talking to ambitious founders of a business bound for the States was followed by a walk round the iconic beach. I’d stuffed my bikini in my handbag so got happily smashed about in the waves before heading back to the CBD.

LIGHT UP

I’m not much of a party girl these days, but I do love to walk around cities at night. Each year Sydney’s buildings and skies light up with their Vivid Festival in May. Hundreds of drones take to the skies and videos of artworks cover landmark buildings. Follow the light walk from Circular Quay and grab snacks en route.

BARANGAROO

Everyone here likes to have early meetings, which has been perfect as I get the rest of the day to explore. The morning was spent with Startmate, one of Australia and New Zealand's best-known tech startup accelerators in the Stripe offices at the incredibly hip WeWork building. The whole area, Barangaroo, has been recently redeveloped. The land is named after an influential Aboriginal woman from the Eora Nation. Gleaming buildings line the water, it’s a pretty magnificent working environment. The development has turned an inaccessible industrial area into a waterfront for everyone to enjoy, and linked up some of the central Sydney points with the Wulugul (kingfish) Walk.

SHELLY BEACH

Take the ferry from Circular Quay to Manly Beach and walk the picturesque pathway cut into the cliffs round to Shelly Beach. A towel, snorkel, mask and a good book are all you’ll need to while away a good part of the day. There’s a lovely beachside restaurant called the Boat House which doesn’t take bookings. And a huge reef round the headland at the end of the beach, which is where your mask and snorkel comes in handy. If you’re hot on the walk back to Manly to catch the ferry, stop off at Cabbage Tree Bay and have a quick dip off the rocks.

INDOOR WATERFALL

Okay, I think this is my favourite thing in Sydney, and I found it by accident walking through Town Hall shopping centre to get to the train. An actual waterfall covering an entire wall in Eternity Café. I went there every day. It’s got a very kitsch vibe. I was a big fan of the smoothie bowls and salads. 

Top tips for solo travel in Sydney

Use booking.com app for the best one-bedroom apartments in the CBD.

Eat outside peak restaurant hours to get the best seats in town.

Walk everywhere! You’re on your own schedule.

booking.com

Island time

There’s no need for a long-haul flight to escape to paradise when, only a few hours away, the tropical haven that is Rarotonga awaits you.

Words Cameron Scott

Just three-and-a-half hours’ flight time from New Zealand, the lush and mountainous tropical island of Rarotonga offers the perfect escape for jaded Kiwis. Whether you’re travelling with the family, wanting a romantic holiday for two, or even an idyllic wedding venue, Rarotonga has something for everyone. Relax on a white sand beach beside a stunning turquoise lagoon, enjoy the superb local food and choose from a huge range of activities for people of all ages. When it’s time to leave, you’re sure to be relaxed and rejuvenated.

STAY

MANUIA BEACH RESORT

If you’re looking for the perfect resort to relax, and escape children under the age of 16, Manuia Beach Resort, beside the beach in Arorangi on the sunset side of the island, is a private and idyllic retreat. Accommodation is island-style, featuring comfortable coconut thatched suites complete with air conditioning and beach or garden views. Enjoy the beautiful infinity pool area and relax under a sun umbrella on a poolside lounger with a delicious tropical cocktail served by friendly local staff. Or head for the glorious white sand beach just a few metres away, and take a cooling dip in the inviting, picture-perfect lagoon. The resort is also home to

On the Beach Bar and Restaurant.

manuia.co.ck

EDGEWATER RESORT

Occupying 2.4ha of lush tropical beachside grounds on Rarotonga’s western coast, the family-friendly Edgewater Resort & Spa is five minutes’ drive from Rarotonga International Airport and 4.9km from Avarua township. A Rarotonga icon, the Edgewater has an outdoor swimming pool, two restaurants, a bar and free parking, and also features excellent cultural shows. Rooms have tropical-style décor and rattan furnishings and include balconies with beach or garden views. Accommodation options include three-bedroom garden or beach villas, perfect for families. Edgewater’s spa offers relaxing surrounds where guests can enjoy massages and a range of beauty treatments.

Edgewater.co.ck

TE MANAVA LUXURY VILLAS & SPA

Marketed as “something a little more secluded and off the beaten track,” the 5-star Te Manava Luxury Villas and Spa’s luxury accommodation comes in the form of large, open-plan villas located on the beautiful and tranquil lagoon beachfront. Each villa has its own private plunge pool and tropical gardens. The premium-priced beachside villas enjoy magnificent views over picturesque Muri Lagoon. With one, two or three bedrooms, the villas are perfect for families or couples on a romantic escape. Services include access to babysitters, spas and beauty packages, as well as gourmet dining at the resort restaurant. Nearby Muri village has a range of shops and restaurants with a strong island vibe, all within walking distance. temanava.com

PLAY

SNORKEL WITH TURTLES

“The most amazing experience I’ve ever had.” That was the comment from former Cook Islands resident Karen Scott of Tauranga after she took part in a turtle swimming experience with Snorkel Cook Islands earlier
this year. The two-hour tours take place in Avaavaroa Passage at Vaimaanga Beach under the close supervision of highly-experienced and friendly locals, including former Mount Maunganui lifeguard Josh Utanga. The tour includes snorkelling equipment (snorkel, mask, reef shoes and fins), a locker to store personal belongings, parking, sunscreen, and a refreshing snack of delicious island fruits when you get back to shore.

snorkelcookislands.com

SUNDAY CHURCH

On Sundays, most work on Rarotonga comes to a stop. Avarua’s shops are closed, and locals dress in their best clothing and head for church in the morning. Even if you’re not a believer, join them for an uplifting experience you won’t forget. The singing is beautiful and joyous and you’ll receive a genuine and friendly welcome. At some of the historic Cook Islands Christian Churches, you might even be invited to share morning tea in the church hall. Churches of almost every denomination are spread around the island, so take your pick. For a more intimate experience, the small St Mary’s Catholic Church beside the lagoon in Arorangi village is highly recommended.

EAT

PUNANGA NUI 

The best place to observe local life and experience Cook Islands culture is at the Punanga Nui Market on the lagoon side of the main township of Avarua, opposite the Bond Store. Eagerly awaited each week by locals and tourists alike, the Punanga Nui bursts into life from 8am on Saturdays, with a huge array of shops and stalls selling everything from fresh island produce and meals, to arts and crafts, pearl jewellery and colourful
island style clothing. There’s something here for everyone, with the bonus of cultural performances on the market’s main stage. There’s plenty of parking on the lagoon side of the site, but it pays to be there early.

EXPLORE THE OUTER ISLANDS

Rarotonga International Airport is the base for Air Rarotonga, set to celebrateits 45th anniversary next year. “Air Raro” as it’s fondly known, flies to nine domestic Cook Islands in the Northern and Southern Groups. It also flies to Papeete in Tahiti on the airline’s first international scheduled service which started this year. If you want to visit the outer islands in style, Air Rarotonga also operates a fast Cessna executive jet that can get you there in short order. Many visitors opt to visit the laid-back and picturesque island of Aitutaki, to the north, and you can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.

airraro.com

SOUL CAFÉ & BARBER SHOP

The funky Soul Café is located in Maraerenga on the Tupapa side of Avarua, not far from the Cook Islands News office. As well as serving excellent coffees, Soul Café offers the opportunity to build your own sandwiches with the freshest of ingredients, washed down with a selection of fresh fruit smoothies. There’s also a tempting brunch menu which makes the most of island produce such as rukao (taro leaves cooked in coconut cream) in innovative ways. The Eggs Benedict served with yellowfin tuna comes highly recommended. The café is owned by long-time friends Caleb Tatuava and Vou Williams who also operate the barbershop next door.  

soulcafeck

THE MOORING

Enjoy the freshest of local fish and delicious sandwiches, salads and sauces at the Mooring Fish Café in Muri. This casual and friendly dining establishment has won numerous awards for its fish meals, salads and sandwiches starring local game fish such as wahoo, tuna, mahimahi and marlin, caught fresh daily by fishermen operating from nearby Avana Harbour. Lunch on a fish sandwich on fresh Turkish bread washed down with refreshing coconut juice. Mains include “Fresh off the Boat” (crumbed mahimahi with chips and salad), tuna tacos with spicy slaw and the freshest fish and chips you’ve ever tasted. Opposite the Muri Night Market.

themooringfishcaferaro.com

NAUTILUS RESORT RESTAURANT

Muri’s luxurious Nautilus Resort offers several dining options with views over
a beautiful infinity pool, white sand beaches or the turquoise waters of the lagoon.
In the main dining area, the award-winning beachfront Nautilus Restaurant offers
a Polynesian inspired dining experience.
You can also enjoy dining on the beachside patio – or resort staff will happily organise
a private dinner. The food is described as Pacific Rim- European fusion, using local seasonal ingredients freshly picked from
the resort’s vegetable garden, and there’s
an emphasis on fresh fish dishes featuring local game fish.

nautilusresortrarotonga.com

Chase the sun

Say goodbye to the winter chill. The Cook Islands heat is calling

Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa

As the days get chillier and we cosy up by the fire in our winter woolies, it can be difficult not to daydream about sun kissed beaches and warm summer breezes. Blessed with endless days of glowing sunshine and balmy temperatures, travelling to the Cook Islands is a sizzling temptation for Kiwis this winter as summer is just a short flight away! 

 If you’ve caught the case of the winter blues and are in need of an uplift, research from Booking.com reveals that getting away on holiday is said to be the form of self-care in 2022 (more so than daily exercise or mindful meditation!) with over three-quarters of people (79%) affirming that travel helps their mental and emotional wellbeing more than other forms of rest and relaxation. Here are Booking.com’s top Rarotonga destinations for the ultimate tropical getaway.

Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa is a beachfront paradise for travellers wanting to live their summer day dream. Overlooking the beautiful Muri Lagoon, these luxury villas offer a truly 5-star experience with a private pool and patio. Guests can make the most of the island life with free use of kayaks, so they can spend their days on the glowing blue water taking in their surroundings. The Te Manava Spa offers relaxing therapies including massages and pedicures, so travellers can really unwind and recharge at the end of their holiday. Furthermore, these villas are ideal for the eco-conscious traveller as they’re a Booking.com Travel Sustainable property.

Crystal Blue Lagoon Villas

Inspired by the turquoise water of Muri Lagoon, Crystal Blue Lagoon boasts stylish modern villas in an idyllic beachfront location. This tranquil retreat features an infinity pool with breath-taking sea views, where guests can truly feel like they’re in paradise. 

Guests are able to enjoy free use of snorkelling gear, so they can hop from pool to lagoon and explore all of the beautiful reefs nearby.  These self-contained villas offer guests privacy, with all of the required facilities to ensure they have everything they need for their stay. 

Ocean Spray Villas

The beachfront Ocean Spray Villa offers incredible panoramic views of the lagoon, beach and the Pacific Ocean, so Kiwis will be able to truly immerse themselves in the ‘beach bum’ life while they chase that summer feeling. The spacious, homely rooms have an almost ‘Bach’ like vibe, so Kiwis will feel right at home when they’re chasing more of those summer days. 

Muri Beachcomber

Situated right on the beach, Muri Beachcomber offers direct access to Muri Beach and its extraordinary white sand. The crystal clear water looks like something off of a postcard, guaranteeing travellers a real slice of paradise! 

Guests are given free access to kayaks and paddle boards, meaning they’re able to make the most of the island lifestyle and cruise over the stunning ocean waters all day long. Whether you want to swim in the outdoor pool, snorkel in the lagoon just metres from the property, or book in scuba diving and sailing, guests can be sure they won’t find themselves bored here.