California dreaming
Catherine Sylvester and her family escaped the Kiwi winter for a scenic coastal road trip in sunny California, hitting up the best the Golden State has to offer along the way.
Catherine Sylvester and her family escaped the Kiwi winter for a scenic coastal road trip in sunny California, hitting up the best the Golden State has to offer along the way.
The Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
Four weeks, one state, multiple Costco lunches with mostly fabulous weather, and I can safely say we love California. Flying into San Francisco and departing from Los Angeles meant renting the biggest car I’ve ever seen, and hundreds of miles covered in between.
First stop: San Francisco. Steep streets, Mrs Doubtfire, the Summer of Love and the painted lady houses of Full House fame. The presence of two iconic structures looms large over this northern California city – the Golden Gate Bridge and former prison Alcatraz. Both are situated over the harbour – one a conduit of movement and travel, the other an insurance against it. We tackled both with equal enthusiasm.
Golden Gate Bridge
Hiring bikes in town, we cycled along the waterfront in beautiful sunshine, pulling off jumpers and reapplying sunscreen. Upon reaching
the bridge, we entered a low-hanging, chilly cloud, causing the rapid redonning of clothing. Such is San Francisco. To the accompaniment of harbour fog horns, we made our way across the bridge and onto the adorable tourist town of Sausalito for burgers and ice creams back in the sunshine before the ferry ride home.
The island of Alcatraz.
Alcatraz Island
Make sure you book well in advance for Alcatraz as tickets sell out fast. We took the first ferry of the day, which was wise, as the island fills up steadily with tourists. A self-guided tour through the former maximum security federal prison allows you to move at your own pace and get all the photos you like. A fascinating look at a self-contained island and penitentiary that was home not only to some of America’s most notorious criminals, like Al Capone and The Birdman of Alcatraz, but hundreds of guards, employees and their families.
Locked up at Alcatraz.
The gift shop at the end of the tour meant books for the road for me, written by those who grew up on the island, detailing their quite normal lives in a quite unusual setting.
El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, a 3000ft climb from base to summit.
Yosemite National Park
Depending on road conditions, the drive to Yosemite takes around four hours from San Francisco, and the scenery is stunning.
We stayed in cabins at Thousand Trails Yosemite Lakes and felt very Bear Grylls as we roasted marshmallows for s’mores over an open fire. Although there was no foraging for bear droppings or whatever it is Grylls dines on, we still felt quite rustic.
Squirrel, chipmunk and deer sightings were big winners with our kids, though I did face a conundrum when a cute skunk sidled up to the campfire. How to move it on without alarm, thereby causing the release of its bespoke odour? Thankfully, a quiet “Shoo!” and soft clap of the hands did the trick.
California Tunnel Tree, Mariposa Grove, with a hole cut in 1895 to allow horses and buggies to pass through.
Emerging from Tunnel View into Yosemite National Park itself is breathtaking. Heavy snows last winter meant waterfalls were the fullest and most powerful they’d been in 50 years. We were fortunate to be there, as only weeks prior to our trip the park was closed due to flooding caused by the melting snow.
Mariposa Grove is worth the hike for the enormous sequoia, and a gentle ride on hired bikes to the Mirror Lake is also very manageable. Due to the change in the volume of the waterfalls, the Misty Trail hike up to Vernal Falls was more like the Torrential Trail, but quite spectacular and well worth the effort.
Pacific Coast Highway
On down the coast to the old fishing town of Monterey, then the exquisite artist colony of Carmel-by-the-Sea, and on to San Luis Obispo – home of the bubble-gum wall (exactly what it sounds like), and the one-of-a-kind Madonna Inn (nothing to do with either the virgin or the singer).
Carmel-by-the-Sea, an artist colony.
Individually themed rooms with names like Caveman, Fabulous 50s, and Hearts and Flowers make the Inn a unique experience, and while we didn’t stay there this trip, a housekeeper was kind enough to let us take a peek. Definitely on our list of future accommodations.
Horse riding at Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo.
A leisurely meander across picturesque hills on horses from the Inn’s Trail Rides tested my courage. Snakes, spiders and the most nauseating of roller coasters I’m up for, but I am a little nervy around our equine friends. Thankfully I was gifted the docile Cherokee, to whom I softly whispered, “Please be nice!” all the way up the hill, and “Thank you for being nice!” all the way down.
Even if you’re not staying at the inn, you must grab a stool at the restaurant counter and order an American-sized slab of pink champagne cake and a soda. Look around the Barbie-pink explosion of finery that is the Steak House, and sneak into the world-famous men’s washroom with waterfall urinal – but best have a male friend check the coast is clear first!
World famous Steak House at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo.
Malibu and Los Angeles
Other highlights of a jam-packed trip were dinner on the sand at Paradise Cove in Malibu, watching Clueless by the pool and under the stars engulfed in the heady scent of jasmine at The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, dining on wiener schnitzel and cabbage in the Danish-style village of Solvang, Dodgers baseball games, and a mandatory marathon two days exploring Disneyland and California Adventure Park.
At a Dodgers baseball game.
Saying goodbye to California is always hard, so as we crammed our shopping into the extra fit-for-purpose bags we’d bought and shared one more fabulous Mexican meal at Pancho’s in Manhattan Beach, plans were already well under way for our next trip to The Golden State.
The Danish-style village of Solvang.
California travel tips
School summer holidays run from the beginning of June through August. Tourist spots fill up then. Yosemite in May was perfect, but by mid-June it was apparently packed.
Prices often look good, but always consider the exchange rate. Most goods will cost more than the price tag indicates due to state taxes that don’t appear until you’re at the checkout.
When you’ve finished dining, your server will “bring you the check”, and you pay while seated, rather than at the till. It’s not warmly received if you bypass this process.
Hollywood Boulevard itself is fun and a bit crazy, but you might want to keep the kids close and avoid after dark.
What we call entrées, Americans call starters. What we call mains, they call entrées. Knowing this can avoid accidental over-ordering of food.
If you hanker for some simple food, try the slightly fancy supermarket Whole Foods, as they have a self-serve smorgasbord arrangement. It’s not the cheapest, but by week three I was grateful for some plain salads and vegetables.
We love LA but locals don’t refer to June weather as “June gloom” for nothing. Be prepared you may have a few overcast days.
If visiting Disneyland or California Adventure Park, it is worth the extra investment of the Lightning Lane Pass, as it significantly cuts down wait times for rides.
Island time
There’s no need for a long-haul flight to escape to paradise when, only a few hours away, the tropical haven that is Rarotonga awaits you.
There’s no need for a long-haul flight to escape to paradise when, only a few hours away, the tropical haven that is Rarotonga awaits you.
Words Cameron Scott
Just three-and-a-half hours’ flight time from New Zealand, the lush and mountainous tropical island of Rarotonga offers the perfect escape for jaded Kiwis. Whether you’re travelling with the family, wanting a romantic holiday for two, or even an idyllic wedding venue, Rarotonga has something for everyone. Relax on a white sand beach beside a stunning turquoise lagoon, enjoy the superb local food and choose from a huge range of activities for people of all ages. When it’s time to leave, you’re sure to be relaxed and rejuvenated.
STAY
MANUIA BEACH RESORT
If you’re looking for the perfect resort to relax, and escape children under the age of 16, Manuia Beach Resort, beside the beach in Arorangi on the sunset side of the island, is a private and idyllic retreat. Accommodation is island-style, featuring comfortable coconut thatched suites complete with air conditioning and beach or garden views. Enjoy the beautiful infinity pool area and relax under a sun umbrella on a poolside lounger with a delicious tropical cocktail served by friendly local staff. Or head for the glorious white sand beach just a few metres away, and take a cooling dip in the inviting, picture-perfect lagoon. The resort is also home to
On the Beach Bar and Restaurant.
EDGEWATER RESORT
Occupying 2.4ha of lush tropical beachside grounds on Rarotonga’s western coast, the family-friendly Edgewater Resort & Spa is five minutes’ drive from Rarotonga International Airport and 4.9km from Avarua township. A Rarotonga icon, the Edgewater has an outdoor swimming pool, two restaurants, a bar and free parking, and also features excellent cultural shows. Rooms have tropical-style décor and rattan furnishings and include balconies with beach or garden views. Accommodation options include three-bedroom garden or beach villas, perfect for families. Edgewater’s spa offers relaxing surrounds where guests can enjoy massages and a range of beauty treatments.
TE MANAVA LUXURY VILLAS & SPA
Marketed as “something a little more secluded and off the beaten track,” the 5-star Te Manava Luxury Villas and Spa’s luxury accommodation comes in the form of large, open-plan villas located on the beautiful and tranquil lagoon beachfront. Each villa has its own private plunge pool and tropical gardens. The premium-priced beachside villas enjoy magnificent views over picturesque Muri Lagoon. With one, two or three bedrooms, the villas are perfect for families or couples on a romantic escape. Services include access to babysitters, spas and beauty packages, as well as gourmet dining at the resort restaurant. Nearby Muri village has a range of shops and restaurants with a strong island vibe, all within walking distance. temanava.com
PLAY
SNORKEL WITH TURTLES
“The most amazing experience I’ve ever had.” That was the comment from former Cook Islands resident Karen Scott of Tauranga after she took part in a turtle swimming experience with Snorkel Cook Islands earlier
this year. The two-hour tours take place in Avaavaroa Passage at Vaimaanga Beach under the close supervision of highly-experienced and friendly locals, including former Mount Maunganui lifeguard Josh Utanga. The tour includes snorkelling equipment (snorkel, mask, reef shoes and fins), a locker to store personal belongings, parking, sunscreen, and a refreshing snack of delicious island fruits when you get back to shore.
SUNDAY CHURCH
On Sundays, most work on Rarotonga comes to a stop. Avarua’s shops are closed, and locals dress in their best clothing and head for church in the morning. Even if you’re not a believer, join them for an uplifting experience you won’t forget. The singing is beautiful and joyous and you’ll receive a genuine and friendly welcome. At some of the historic Cook Islands Christian Churches, you might even be invited to share morning tea in the church hall. Churches of almost every denomination are spread around the island, so take your pick. For a more intimate experience, the small St Mary’s Catholic Church beside the lagoon in Arorangi village is highly recommended.
EAT
PUNANGA NUI
The best place to observe local life and experience Cook Islands culture is at the Punanga Nui Market on the lagoon side of the main township of Avarua, opposite the Bond Store. Eagerly awaited each week by locals and tourists alike, the Punanga Nui bursts into life from 8am on Saturdays, with a huge array of shops and stalls selling everything from fresh island produce and meals, to arts and crafts, pearl jewellery and colourful
island style clothing. There’s something here for everyone, with the bonus of cultural performances on the market’s main stage. There’s plenty of parking on the lagoon side of the site, but it pays to be there early.
EXPLORE THE OUTER ISLANDS
Rarotonga International Airport is the base for Air Rarotonga, set to celebrateits 45th anniversary next year. “Air Raro” as it’s fondly known, flies to nine domestic Cook Islands in the Northern and Southern Groups. It also flies to Papeete in Tahiti on the airline’s first international scheduled service which started this year. If you want to visit the outer islands in style, Air Rarotonga also operates a fast Cessna executive jet that can get you there in short order. Many visitors opt to visit the laid-back and picturesque island of Aitutaki, to the north, and you can book all the way there on an Air New Zealand itinerary.
SOUL CAFÉ & BARBER SHOP
The funky Soul Café is located in Maraerenga on the Tupapa side of Avarua, not far from the Cook Islands News office. As well as serving excellent coffees, Soul Café offers the opportunity to build your own sandwiches with the freshest of ingredients, washed down with a selection of fresh fruit smoothies. There’s also a tempting brunch menu which makes the most of island produce such as rukao (taro leaves cooked in coconut cream) in innovative ways. The Eggs Benedict served with yellowfin tuna comes highly recommended. The café is owned by long-time friends Caleb Tatuava and Vou Williams who also operate the barbershop next door.
soulcafeck
THE MOORING
Enjoy the freshest of local fish and delicious sandwiches, salads and sauces at the Mooring Fish Café in Muri. This casual and friendly dining establishment has won numerous awards for its fish meals, salads and sandwiches starring local game fish such as wahoo, tuna, mahimahi and marlin, caught fresh daily by fishermen operating from nearby Avana Harbour. Lunch on a fish sandwich on fresh Turkish bread washed down with refreshing coconut juice. Mains include “Fresh off the Boat” (crumbed mahimahi with chips and salad), tuna tacos with spicy slaw and the freshest fish and chips you’ve ever tasted. Opposite the Muri Night Market.
themooringfishcaferaro.com
NAUTILUS RESORT RESTAURANT
Muri’s luxurious Nautilus Resort offers several dining options with views over
a beautiful infinity pool, white sand beaches or the turquoise waters of the lagoon.
In the main dining area, the award-winning beachfront Nautilus Restaurant offers
a Polynesian inspired dining experience.
You can also enjoy dining on the beachside patio – or resort staff will happily organise
a private dinner. The food is described as Pacific Rim- European fusion, using local seasonal ingredients freshly picked from
the resort’s vegetable garden, and there’s
an emphasis on fresh fish dishes featuring local game fish.
A long weekend in Los Angeles: our editor shows you how
A sunny stroll through the canals which are a great surprise to find in such a sprawling city, and we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed back out to the airport for our 9pm flight. An entirely different continent and three days of discovery, then back feeling refreshed. The best way to holiday.
WORDS + PHOTOS Jenny Rudd
So you probably think it's not possible, what with that 12 hour flight. But it all dovetails neatly. The flights are overnight both directions, and there's only a 3 hour time difference, which you barely notice. Leave Auckland Friday night and land mid-morning on the same day. Then leave LA on Sunday night and land back home first thing on Tuesday. Because you've slept all night on the plane you'll be fresh enough to go to work that day. So you can go on holiday to America and only take Monday off work. What a great shimmy!
Friday
If we're only going for the weekend, we're staying in Venice Beach with the action. We dumped our stuff and got straight outside. Using your Uber app, you can pick up ebikes to cruise along the boulevard. It's a slow ride because there's so much take in and see. Although Venice is famous for Muscle Beach and oiled bronze bodies, there's also a hippy, anything-goes vibe which you notice straight away, cycling through fragrant puffs of weed smoke; marijuana's legal in California.
The bike path ran for miles. Eventually the bright colours and pleasant oddball residents faded to the sleeker Santa Monica. The farmer's market was in full swing so we gulped down bright and sweet blood orange juice and turned round to head back.
We were amazed by the number of people using all the public facilities; there were lots of basketball matches going on with spectators joining in and dropping out, the skatepark was a blur of tie dye and wheels on concrete. A huge, empty car park had been repurposed as an ice hockey pitch.
After a full day of biking and sightseeing, we were pretty happy to grab takeaway caprese salads from the deli next door to the hotel and eat them in bed, flicking through the millions of TV channels.
Saturday
If a tour guide is as enthusiastic and knowledgeable as Daniel, you know you're going to have a good time. An online search had showed us that ALL Day LA Tours would teach us about the history of the city and give us ideas of things to do. We started in Hollywood at the Walk of Fame, then up to the Hollywood sign which used to be a real estate sign for the land underneath in Franklin Village, a peaceful graveyard housing some of the greats: Marylin Monroe, Hugh Hefner, and my favourite - Peter Faulk of Columbo fame.
Daniel took us through the grounds of Greystone Mansion, a huge estate in Beverly Hills with landscaped grounds built in the twenties by oil tycoon Edward L. Doheny for his son, Ned. It's since been gifted to the city. What a story; Ned killed himself and his secretary in one of the spare rooms. The two men had been involved in an oil scandal with Ned's father.
The whole tour was story after story like this and we whizzed around in a comfy people mover with no windows for maximum photo opportunities. We finished off driving down Rodeo Drive and all of us goggling at the outrageous displays of wealth.
Saturday night in Venice Beach was lively, we decided to go for sushi just off the main drag which was a great choice after all the chips and cookies we'd packed away during the day. The interior was sparse and urban and the sashimi was excellent.
Sunday
We had a late start over the continental breakfast included at the hotel, then walked to the achingly cool Abbot Kinney Boulevard. There are murals of the sides of buildings everywhere, and the artiness of the locals really shows. We heard stories that it's been gentrified and that had changed quite a bit over the years. But we loved it. The thought and design that had gone into every space whether it's a clothes shop or restaurant gives you so much to stop and look at.
Lunch was a huge pile of salad from Greenleaf which described themselves as a gourmet chop shop.
A sunny stroll through the canals which are a great surprise to find in such a sprawling city, and we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed back out to the airport for our 9pm flight.
An entirely different continent and three days of discovery, then back feeling refreshed. The best way to holiday.
Stay:
Inn at Venice Beach
Retro rooms with huge images everywhere of Venice Beach over the years. It felt retro and fun with pops of orange on white bedspreads. The location was fantastic: 20 minutes from the airport, right near the action, clean and quiet.
Eat:
Sushi Enya
Chef Kimiyasu Enya trained for 10 years before setting up his three restaurants in Los Angeles. The interior was industrial and all focus is on the clean bites of sashimi.
Move:
Don't even think about renting a car. We used Uber and the scooters and bikes which were everywhere, and easily unlocked with our Uber app.