Turkish delight

Bridging Europe and Asia, Nicky Adams explores the melting pot that is Turkey. 

PHOTOS Nicky adams + supplied

Throw Turkey into a travel conversation, and you’re sure to get an animated response. From those that looped it in on their OEs, to those who are fizzing to book their own trip. 

Seen as a rite of passage for many New Zealanders, with the deep connection to Anzac Bay held dear, most Kiwis would admit to this being on the bucket list.

A land that offers diversity in spades, there is the multi-cultural pull of Istanbul, where east really does quite literally meet west, the opportunity to pay your respects at Anzac Bay, the magic of Cappadocia with its homes built into the hills and underground network, and stunning Mediterranean beaches. And this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Exploring the tunnels and caves of Kaymakli underground city.

I visited Istanbul over 20 years ago, and it was a revelation to look at the city again with a fresh perspective. The blend of cultures is something you can’t take for granted and was a real joy to see. Side by side Muslims and Christians rush around, and the city celebrates both faiths with a rich history. The landmarks are of course every bit as spectacular as they appear in the glossy pages of travel mags; yes, there are crowds and queues but time it right and you can get lucky. And it’s certainly worth the wait – the Blue Mosque is majestic, Hagia Sophia breathtaking, the Topkapi Palace a symbol of Ottoman splendour, and the Dolmabahce Palace (on the shore of the Bosphorus) the architecturally innovative  ‘upgraded’ home to the Sultans from the 1800s. Walk through the Yerebatan Underground Basilica Cistern built by the Romans, a strangely beautiful attraction, mesmerising and eerie in equal measure. Meanwhile a trip along the Bosphorus by night lets you hear the beating heart of the city as it shimmers and shines in all its glory.

The balloons create a surreal day-break vista.

It’s hard to resist the most touristy of tourist attractions – a visit to the Grand Bazaar. This is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world dating back to 1453, and the icing on the tourist cake is a guided walk across the rooftop. Showcased in Skyfall, the James Bond movie where Daniel Craig shot across on his motorbike, you’ll find yourself balancing on teeny-weeny ledge ways high above the city, putting one foot tentatively in front of the other. Those with height issues would find this marginally stomach churning (no OSH here) – but the vista below is incredible. Both inside and outside the Bazaar are gazillions of tiny stalls with marketeers peddling their wares; some fabulous, some not so much. It’s hard to get out without having committed to a Turkish rug, which, if you do your research and buy from someone reliable, is potentially the purchase of a lifetime. If you don’t get a rug you have to at least buy the Turkish delight – these delicately flavoured jellies are addictive. The sweet shops are themselves an experience, rammed with ornate delights you’ll likely be regaled with stories of the Ottoman Emperors, the birth of boiled sweets and a million other things you never knew, while being pumped with Turkish coffee and baklava. This is a very hospitable nation.

The ancient, cobbled streets are bathed in baking sunshine but cooled by a breeze from the Baltic – ice cream vendors are everywhere, and pathways are peppered with tiny kittens and wide-eyed cats. Just as you wonder how they’re all so well fed, you see a passerby open their handbag and scatter cat food for these street dwellers. Feeding the strays is apparently a quirk of the city, but with the end game of keeping rats at bay – the Turks are no fools. The tradespeople and cab drivers are also always up for a bit of bartering – it doesn’t take long to get past the embarrassment of a good haggle.

Istanbul’s grand Blue Mosque.

Istanbul is a feast not just for the senses, but also the stomach. I chose
to do a walking food tour through the city; it was wonderful touring the back streets, where cafes are crammed into the narrowest lanes, serving Turkish tea to customers on slouchy sofas. Stopping at historic sights and trying every type of traditionally-made Turkish fare from breakfast eggs to spicy koftas and Doner Kebab, I was loving the rich, flavoursome dishes – until I was faced with the minced lamb intestines, at which point I became extremely squeamish. The older parts of Istanbul are captivating and sit alongside the newer flasher areas – as a city it certainly feels wealthy, and the lavish hotels reflect this – the tourists are as diverse as the natives. Staying at an international chain certainly offered every luxury – but came at a cost, Turkey is not the cheap country some remember from their backpacking days. It’s easy to get around, taxis are plentiful, but some run without meters so it’s worth having an idea of fare otherwise you’re fair game to be charged a very steep tourist rate. As a place with a turbulent past, it was heartening that everywhere you looked there was a strong police presence, and entrance to every hotel and mall involved a bag screen. 

Moving on from Istanbul, an air-conditioned coach ride to Anzac Bay was an easy way to travel, and still allowed us to get there in good time to thoroughly immerse ourselves in the experience. It is so many things to so many people, and deserves the time spent walking along the beach and meandering through the gravestones, reading the inscriptions and thinking about the huge sacrifice and loss. It’s emotional on a different level, even if you have no direct link to the fallen soldiers. The on-site museum is also a place of reverence; nicely laid out to give visitors the opportunity to become engrossed in the moment.

Akbas Cemetery and Memorial honouring fallen Turkish soldiers during Gallipoli.

Travelling onto Cappadocia, a region of central Turkey known for its otherworldly landscapes, is to experience a different side to Turkey altogether. Soft volcanic rock formations amongst undulating hillsides feel closer to a film set than reality. Again, the history is at the forefront, as you weave through dusty streets, with houses, hotels, bars, and restaurants all burrowed deep into the rock face. Staying in a boutique hotel with rooms set high in the rocks, this felt luxurious, even though the room was reminiscent of something from The Flintstones. Of course, Cappadocia is home to the balloon rides – and as someone who visualised my time would be spent poolside with feet firmly on the ground, I was not planning on adding this to my ‘to-do’ list. Nevertheless, I dug deep, and I’m so glad that I did – the whole experience felt reassuringly safe; drifting cloudlike above beautiful dusty landscapes, the skies filled at sunrise with a fleet of colourful balloons was a natural as well as physical high. This area is peppered with ancient underground labyrinthine cities built by residents sheltering from invading forces, and for the non-claustrophobic, a tour through Kaymakli, the most historic of them all, is a must. Thought to date back to as early as the fourth century BC it’s insane to think whole communities lived self-sufficiently underground for years at a time – and even more crazy to think for some it was as recent as the second world war.

Istanbul’s Eastern and Western influences, create a dynamic city rich in history and culture.

If you want artisanal keepsakes, then this is the place to find them, as silver and local pottery are the artefacts to shop for in this part of Turkey. Ornate pieces are hard to resist, and there are plenty of manufacturing shops that mean you can be confident you’re buying the real deal. A visit to this area wouldn’t be complete without exploring the famous Fairy Chimneys. Located deep in the dusty hillsides, these natural marvels are simply incredible. Wandering among these distinctive landscapes, you can’t help but be awestruck at the natural wonders of this country.

The intricate vaulted ceilings of the Blue Mosque.

With temperatures that can reach heady heights, the beaches of Turkey are tempting, but can get crowded. Spring and Autumn are lovely times
to visit, especially if you want to do lots of sightseeing. In Turkey everything is diverse – from the landscapes to the cuisine – and it’s this that makes every step of the trip feel fulfilling and joyous. With an abundance on offer, it’s fair to say Turkey leaves you wanting more.