Lexus Tauranga team picks their showroom favourites

Lexus of Tauranga’s new showroom is open in Elizabeth Street. The passionate team share their picks of the luxury vehicles in the showroom.

WORDS MONIQUE BALVERT-O’CONNOR PHOTOS JAHL MARSHALL + SALINA GALVAN

Engage in a chat with Mike Ranstead about the new Tauranga Lexus car dealership he runs, and chances are he will talk more about people than cars. That’s not surprising, given this Tauranga branch manager and his team are heavily focussed on offering exceptional customer service. Many Tauranga locals have already had a taste of it as the Lexus dealership opened its Elizabeth Street showroom in June. Mike says that even though he heads an automotive dealership, he considers he and his team work within the hospitality sector.

“We don’t want people to feel as if they are moving into the process you traditionally find in the automotive industry. When we open our doors to them, we are inviting them into a comfortable, welcoming space where they are our guests – we are sharing our hospitality with them.” He passionately talks about how the premises is up for the task, “looking on point” and offering a sense of walking into a hotel foyer rather than a dealership. It’s a perfect setting for talking about dream vehicles. “We invite people to sit and have a conversation with us about how we can help them. The initial dialogue is not necessarily about the product – it is more about what they want to achieve from a vehicle buying experience,” Mike enthuses.

In discussing the importance of customer service, Mike reverts to the Japanese term “omotenashi”. “Omotenashi is about anticipating the needs of others without expectation of reward. In other words, the experience we are giving to customers is given whole-heartedly. It is about ensuring that when they leave here, they’ve had a memorable experience that fits with what they would expect of the quality and premium Lexus brand.” In the short time the Lexus showroom has been open in Tauranga, plenty of people have experienced this special welcome. “The response has been outstanding. We have experienced a huge amount of warmth and positivity,” Mike says.

Amongst those calling in is a steady level of Lexus owners, coming in to say hi, checking out the site, booking their Lexus in for a service, and coming to talk about what the future holds. Those new to the Lexus experience are also calling in. There’s a strong inclination to know more about hybrid technology, and Lexus has a significant range of hybrid models, Mike says. Customer service the Tauranga Lexus way includes all sorts of added touches. Imagine coming in to have a test drive and returning to find your car washed. How about receiving a bar of chocolate and a hand-written thank you note after getting your car serviced? And what about a bottle of champagne to celebrate when you make a purchase. It’s all part of the “hand-on-heart” hospitality Mike and his team do so well.

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Mike Ranstead

Branch manager

Eye-catching styling combines with a spacious and driver-centric cockpit in the ES300h F-Sport. This seventh-generation Lexus ES (executive sedan) is a mid-size luxury sedan with an all-new chassis that allows for the dynamic exterior design and, teamed with front and rear performance dampers, turns this sedan into a very competent driving vehicle. I enjoy touring around in it, seeking out less-driven roads to find hidden gems, and the ES F-Sport gives both the range and the handling on those country roads.

The F-Sport interior finish option with the red upholstery makes a real statement, and the front-seat styling with additional side bolsters gives fantastic support during longer drives. I also love the enormous boot, and the rear window shade is really handy on hot, sunny days.

Lily Matenga

Sales coordinator

The UX250h F-Sport is our entry-level Lexus SUV and a compact vehicle well suited to my on-the-go urban lifestyle. It’s perfect for zipping around town, and the self-charging hybrid engine makes it super economical - especially in the notorious Tauranga traffic. The UX (urban explorer) range starts at $59,900, making it a more affordable luxury car. The hybrid engine is cost- effective but powerful as well, giving the smaller model an added sporty flair. My favourite design feature is the F-Sport front grille, with its distinctive mesh pattern made up of multiple L-shaped motifs. I also love the wireless charging pad and remote touchpad that allow me to stay connected while I’m out and about, as well as provide easy access to features such as maps, music and climate control.

Mitchell Handcock

Sales consultant

The RX450hl is a luxury mid-size SUV and the top- selling Lexus SUV in New Zealand. My fiancée and I are big adventure people and often spend our weekends doing long journeys in search of good times. Whether visiting family in Kerikeri, going on Coromandel surfing missions or popping over to Lake Tarawera to wakeboard, we find the RX gets us there feeling relaxed and refreshed. I’m 6’4”, and with the recent addition of a dog, our family is beginning to grow even bigger, so the RX (radiant crossover) 450hl’s blend of space and comfort is a must for us. Its black interior with bamboo trim makes it look sophisticated and modern. My top feature would have to be the Apple CarPlay/ Android Auto. Seamless smartphone connectivity combined with the touchscreen display makes everything very convenient.

Damon Bowe

After sales consultant

Perfect for my passion for performance-style cars, the IS350 F-Sport (IS stands for intelligent sedan or intelligent sport) is a compact yet powerful sedan that not only has exclusive tuning implemented into the suspension springs, shock absorbers and electric power steering, it is also paired with luxury driving comfort. Its ground-hugging form lowers its centre of gravity and improves agility while driving – ideal for anyone who enjoys fast cars and wants a race-car feel.

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LEXUSOFTAURANGA.CO.NZ

Take me to the river - a winter weekend away in the Waikato

Take me to the river...and the zoo, and the gardens – UNO’s Hannah Keys has hot tips for a weekend getaway in the Waikato.

PHOTOS HANNAH KEYS

With a free weekend and the whole family to entertain, we decided a trip to Hamilton was on the cards. Searching Booking.com, I found a gorgeous house just outside the city and right on the river; signed myself, my children Nico (7) and Inez (2), and my parents Janet and Roger up for two nights; then set about planning an itinerary that explores some of the city’s hot spots.

STAY

ON THE RIVER

When we arrived at our accommodation, On The River, after dusk on Friday evening, the air was heavy with the scent of eucalyptus. Fire and electric blankets on, we settled in with hot chocolate and felt right at home. This architecturally designed house is an absolute winner for group travel, with a huge kitchen and living areas in the main dwelling, along with four bedrooms. In the morning, the full majesty of the property was revealed, including its big outdoor space, rambling gardens and pebbled pathways leading down to the banks of the Waikato River. It would have been easy enough to snuggle up for the day and enjoy the serene scene at our doorstep, but our littlest travel companions put a swift end to that idea.

DO

WAIKATO MUSEUM

This trip was a reminder for me of the history Hamilton offers, from the early architecture lining the streets of the central city to the museums. We visited the Waikato Museum Te Whare Taonga o Waikato, taking in the fantastic exhibition of Marti Friedlander photography and the E Hina e! E Hine e! display exploring the contemporary relevance of female Maaori and Kanaka Maoli (Native Hawaiian) ancestors. There’s an interactive science gallery for kids as well.

HAMILTON ZOO

As soon as the kids caught wind of the fact that Hamilton has a zoo, it rocketed to the top of the to-do list. Actually, it was just as appealing for the adults, proving to be an enjoyable wander through a really-quite-beautiful compound. The animals’ enclosures are structured in such a way that you’re able to have the kind of close encounters you wouldn’t get elsewhere; think zebras scratching their backs on the fence a metre in front of you and giraffes having their lunch an arm’s length away.

HAMILTON GARDENS

We caught a break in the winter weather that let us explore the otherworldly Hamilton Gardens. We’d all either never been or not visited for a good decade, so we were all greatly impressed by these meticulously designed and transportive gardens, which left us feeling inspired and surprisingly well-travelled as we headed back home over the hill.

EAT

HAYES COMMON

Near the river in Hamilton East is the very cool Hayes Common. Reservations are a good idea, but we were lucky enough to nab a table outside on the fly, and it was well worth braving the cold for. The eggs Benedict and maple-soaked crêpes went down a treat, while my winter salad was a taste explosion, with house-cured salmon, smoked beetroot and a touch of citrus.

GREY STREET KITCHEN

We also stopped in for coffee and cake at Grey Street Kitchen, which is co-owned by two-time New Zealand barista champion Dove Chen. The food here is delicious; I had my eye on the gluten-free gnocchi with Hamilton-grown oyster mushrooms.

Our stay at On The River was courtesy of BOOKING.COM. I found the app so easy to use and the flexible cancellation policy meant I was happy to book without hesitation.

Northland: About as good as it gets for UNO editor Jenny Rudd

WORDS JENNY RUDD / PHOTOS SUPPLIED

If you mention Northland to anyone in Aotearoa, it’s often met with sighs of longing. People love it. Warmth, beauty, isolation – the best things come in threes. The top of our country has that delicious feeling of being a gazillion miles from anywhere, and there’s so much to do! This is the second year in a row my family and I travelled up there in the school holidays, and I feel like we’ve barely touched the surface. But here are my top picks – so far – from the land where the sun always shines.

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STAY

Via HomeAway, on this trip we rented a holiday house in Coopers Beach dubbed As Good As It Gets. It turned out to be a fair description. The property was on the water's edge in a private bay, so we were able to snorkel straight from our doorstep. This little town overlooking Doubtless Bay also had everything we needed to keep us happy, including a great supermarket, a dairy selling ice creams by the beach, and a spot for playing housie with my mum on the Saturday night.

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STRETCH

We blew away any lingering cobwebs with daily strolls at Taumarumaru Reserve between Coopers Beach and Cable Bay. An oversized grassy knoll, the scenic reserve has lots of tracks that take you up to some great vantage points from which you can gaze out over the ocean.

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SNORKEL

Just up from Coopers Beach is Maitai Bay at the end of the Karikari Peninsula, which curves around the top of Doubtless Bay. As we walked over the lip of the carpark and onto the top of the dunes, I saw a dream-like fantasy beach spread below us – white sand in a perfect crescent with rocks sprinkled at either end. While younger children stood in the shallows and dipped their heads beneath the surface to look at baby squid, my husband, UNO publisher Mat Tomlinson, and I snorkelled in bright blue water, which was teeming with wildlife thanks to the no-take rāhui. We went out around the coast with our four teens to swim through caves, holding rocks so we could sit on the bottom and look up at the fish floating around us.

Most mornings we kicked off with some sunrise fishing on Tokerau Beach. It’s the quintessential start of a day for a Kiwi on holiday. The kids loved it, although their interest in waking up at dawn waned as the week went on and they realised our fishing skills weren’t bagging us any fish.

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SLIDE

Head further north to Te Paki’s giant sand dunes, where you can rent a boogie board and tear down the slopes on your stomach. I’d never seen dunes this size before, and the view from the top was spectacular, all the way back to Ninety Mile Beach. Going really fast down seriously steep dunes made us laugh a lot, so here a top tip: laugh with your mouth closed when you’re tearing downhill. At the bottom of the dunes, you can follow the Te Paki stream to the west coast in a 4WD to check out the endless beach.

SNACK

A few minutes drive from our Coopers Beach base was the Mangonui Fish Shop. As well as exemplary fish ’n’ chips, they sell all things kaimoana at this picturesque spot on the water. If you’re not too full after your meal, see if you can manage an extra treat from their fine array of $5 desserts. We had to go back again so I could have the ice cream sundae and half a pint of chocolate mousse. On your way up to Te Paki, you should stop at the Container Café in Pukenui for a paua pie. Put it in your sat-nav: 4229 Far North Road. They’re world- famous in New Zealand.

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The Northland website has some great ideas on things to do and places to stay. Plan your trip out here. NORTHLANDNZ.COM

The new extraordinary: driving the new Aston Martin DBX to one of Taupō’s most luxurious lodges

PHOTOS Vinesh Kumaran WORDS Steve Vermeulen

Did somebody say take Aston Martin’s new DBX to one of Taupō’s most luxurious lodges? You don’t have to ask twice.

It’s never a bad day in the office when an invitation arrives to drive something a bit special and stay in a lavish setting. I seldom get to enjoy that perk with the family in tow, so when the opportunity arose to showcase Taupō’s beautiful Kinloch Manor and earn some serious brownie points with my wife and son, I grabbed it with both hands. The transport? Aston Martin’s DBX. “Well, okay. If I must.” The DBX is infused with a sense of adventure that bodes well for a family getaway. Even so, I didn’t quite know what to expect. After all, a debut foray into a high-riding, Labrador-toting SUV model isn’t without risk for any sportscar brand, not least one with more than a century of pedigree, such as Aston Martin. It’s all too easy to be blinded by nostalgia, but that’s simply not a realistic view of how we prefer to get around these days. SUVs from sportscar brands are the new normal. Or, at least in the DBX’s case, the new extraordinary. Inside the DBX is a superbly appointed cabin, richly perfumed by the leather covering over almost every surface. Aston Martin’s focus remains on the driving experience, and this goal hasn’t been complicated with superfluous technology, as can be the case with German counterparts. Rather ironically, however, the Brit brand actually relies quite heavily on German tech, leveraging the expertise and scale of Mercedes-Benz for quality audio and infotainment systems.

A central dial allows for the navigation of all functions and there are just three basic driving modes. You don’t need to be an IT guru to navigate your way through the media, navigation and drive functions. Critical information, including the sat-nav map graphic, can be presented within the high- resolution instrument cluster ahead of the driver as well. Despite relying on external suppliers for some elements, Aston Martin chose to be the master of its own destiny and develop a unique SUV chassis. The end result is deeply impressive. The DBX disguises its mass well, utilising double-wishbone front and multi-link rear suspension. Mechanically it’s very advanced, but also benefits from the latest in air suspension tech that adjusts both compression rate and ride height. Electronic torque vectoring to each wheel helps keep the 2.2-ton vehicle on the driving line and 48-volt active anti-roll bars and adaptive dampers also keep body roll to a minimum. Believe it or not, the DBX exhibits less roll than the smaller, sportier Vantage. Meanwhile, the well- planted all-wheel drive system delivers traction and torque management for optimum acceleration on corner exit, or sure-footedness if you really want to go off road. En route to Kinloch, my family and I settled in comfortably while the 542hp (404kW) V8 ate up the miles ahead. What felt like no time at all passed before we were on the country back roads of the Kinloch area, 20 minutes northwest of Taupō. Bright autumnal yellows and reds flashed past the DBX’s panoramic glass roof as we purred towards our destination.

We couldn’t help but voice a collective “Wow!” as we entered Kinloch Manor’s grounds. Despite being shrouded in low cloud, the vista remained deeply impressive, with Lake Taupō dominating the horizon. Kinloch’s central lodge rises from the landscape like a white stone fortress, while blackened-timber-clad suites nestle sympathetically into the hillside. Everything’s presented within the surrounds of a manicured golf course.

“It’s like a painting,” my son aptly suggested as we approached. The rendered stonework and generous use of monolithic slabs of timber continue throughout the lodge and dining area. Everywhere you look, beautifully detailed bespoke craftsmanship adorns the environment, from the smallest detail such as a bone domino set, to more substantial elements like the counter-weighted steel fireguards that hang in front of huge open fires, and the black timber ceiling with a 3D geometric form encompassing the generous square footage of the lodge. There’s a European and antipodean hybrid feel to Kinloch’s architecture and décor. It’s homely but doesn’t feel like home, with comforting spaces in which you can lounge in by the fire with a wine, soak up the views, plan some activities and chat before retreating to your accommodation. Our suite offered up another premium experience all its own. Two terraces opening onto the golf course provided panoramic views of the lake, while another large front deck replete with sun loungers invited relaxation. We knew we wouldn’t be catching many rays on this autumn visit, but lighting the wood burner (one of two fires in the two- bedroom suites) and kicking back for a few hours in the lavish surrounds was the ideal way to leave the day’s busy schedule behind. While my wife soaked in the enormous tub, my son and I took a golf buggy to the course for a scenic tour, and some driving and putting practice. The entire Kinloch experience is simply world class. We often forget just how magical our own backyard can be and investing in local luxury is arguably a far more rewarding experience in the world we inhabit right now. As for the DBX, it certainly presents a compelling case for luxury you can take with you when you leave.

Thanks to Luxury Lodges of New Zealand and Kinloch Manor for making our stay possible.

Driving barefoot in the Bentley Continental GT V8

On a road trip to Northland in a ridiculously beautiful Bentley, going shoeless has never felt so right.

WORDS Steve Vermeulen PHOTOS Vinesh Kumaran

There’s something satisfyingly audacious about driving a Bentley with bare feet. Somehow, kicking off the Havaianas and going ‘foot commando’ in an interior awash with hand-crafted leather and timber accoutrements, beautifully knurled metal dials and an edifying suite of cutting-edge technology just feels right.

Bare feet are entirely appropriate for this road trip to the winterless North – to Whangārei, Opua, Russell and Paihia – to relish the great roads, great food and great scenery this region offers up in spades. At around 300km in length, our first leg from Auckland’s south to the sparkling Opua harbour isn’t an exhausting drive, but it’s certainly made easier in a Bentley Continental GT V8. This latest-generation Continental GT was released a couple of years ago and, for me, captured the real essence of the brand more than any Bentley before it. A brand steeped in luxury and craftsmanship, yes, but also one with track-bred performance and racing pedigree aplenty. 

Physics decrees that luxury features and a swathe of creature comforts shall be the antithesis of lithe handling. But Bentley doubled down on the technology stakes in this latest generation Continental GT, completely flipping that science on its head and making a big car that’s also unbelievably engaging to drive. I’m pleasantly reminded of this as the Puhoi tunnel releases me from the shackles of rush hour and onto the more sweeping curves of State Highway 1, heading through Warkworth and the Dome Valley towards Whangārei. With the composure of all-wheel drive and 404kW of power under (bare) foot, you can make short work of our typical Kiwi A-roads.

There’s a raucousness evident in the V8, something the more silken flagship W12 Continental GT doesn’t have, but the svelte looks and noise combo make the Bentley a popular sight when I hit the streets of Whangārei. A meaty V8 exhaust note around here isn’t uncommon, but judging from the nods of approval and positive reactions I’m getting with every burble and crackle on over run, they clearly appreciate Bentley’s take on the eight-cylinder format as something a bit special.

Sticking to SH1, the miles melt away quickly and driving is effortless. I can sit back with fan-cooled seating and even a gentle massage function and burn through mile after mile without any fatigue. In what seems like no time at all, I’m enjoying fresh fish and chips in the lovely seaside village of Opua.

Our northernmost port of entry for overseas vessels, with a sheltered, deep-water bay, Opua’s a popular destination for international visitors entering our shore. Most recently it homed Spanish billionaire banker and art ‘enthusiast’ Jaime Botin’s beautiful superyacht. Today, though, the Bentley takes centre stage as we board the Opua car ferry to Okiato. 

You really know you’ve well and truly shrugged off the city when you arrive in the Bay of Islands. Today it’s what amounts to a busy day in Opua with the ferries at capacity on each crossing. But the staff on board remain relaxed and accommodating. With some social distancing and PPE protocol in place, they’re only too happy to invite our photographer up to the bridge and allow us to position the Bentley just so, before loading up for the next crossing. It’s little things like this that serve as great reminders of how magnificent New Zealand can be.

I’m overnighting in Russell, but before I head there, I’ve been invited to Paroa Bay Winery and their hilltop Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, Sage. Operated by good friends of the Bentley brand, the Lindis Group, Paroa Bay Winery also offers accommodation in the form of three luxury villas perched above what must be one of the most idyllic bays in the entire Bay of Islands.

I’m not drinking, but on the balcony at Sage I’m told both the 2020 Sauvignon Blanc and 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon are very sippable in tandem with, respectively, line-caught fish and New Zealand wagyu bavette. Regardless of the pairing, a stunning dining experience is assured; make sure you add a booking to your next sojourn north.

The following day starts crisply with the morning sun revealing yet another crystalline northern sky and the baritone V8 humming down the road from Russell. Formally one of the Southern Hemisphere’s busiest ports, favoured by whalers, seafarers and merchants of the day, Russell enjoys its heritage as a once-heaving Victorian metropolis of industry and debauchery in equal measure. 

“It’s not nearly as debaucherous now as it was in the old days, dear,” I’m assured by an older lady, as I chat over a morning coffee while she waits for her coach tour to depart. She and her fellow travellers fawn over the Bentley’s lines outside the fabled Duke of Marlborough Hotel. “If the walls could talk!” she laughs.

Thankfully, mid-week up here is milder-paced than usual. It’s quiet even, affording me the time to absorb the prominence and beauty of Russell’s promenade, the serenity of the harbour and character of the town that has been lovingly preserved.

The roads tighten up between Opua and Paihia, but the Bentley’s party trick is its ability to feel smaller and lighter than reality. You can push on unphased by changes in road condition and with surprising agility. 

There’s time for a brief bite on the wharf at Paihia before the 250km jaunt back to Auckland. After the past 12 months, it’s been great to get some decent driving miles in, sink my feet in the sand and reconnect with one of my favourite parts of the world. Unsurprisingly, the Bentley has been a brilliant tourer. Maybe the bare feet and salt air played a part, but I can honestly say I’ve never felt so reinvigorated at the end of a day’s driving.

For the latest automotive news, visit 66MAGAZINE.CO.NZ. 

Booking.com reveals how the ‘pandemic effect’ could finally tip sustainable travel intent for Kiwis into impactful action

Booking.com reveals how the ‘pandemic effect’ could finally tip sustainable travel intent for Kiwis into impactful action.

New research from Booking.com suggests that the pandemic has been the tipping point for travellers to finally commit to their own sustainable journey, with 68% of Kiwi travellers believing we have to act now to save the planet for future generations.  

Booking.com’s 2021 Sustainable Travel Report reveals that more than three quarters (77%) of Kiwi travellers think sustainable travel is a vital part of achieving this, with two thirds (61%) stating that the pandemic has influenced them to want to travel more sustainably. The timing of the report makes the findings even more poignant, as the travel industry looks to rebuild amidst the ongoing pandemic, says Todd Lacey, Area Manager of Booking.com New Zealand. 

“Our research uncovers how the travel hiatus has opened New Zealanders’ eyes to the impact, both positive and negative, that their trips can have on local ecosystems and communities around the world,” says Lacey. “At Booking.com we believe travel is a force for good, but it has to be done in the right way to ensure we are protecting the planet for future generations.”

Lowering our footprint
Kiwi travellers shared a variety of steps they plan to take to leave less of a footprint on the world as they explore it including’ 80% wanting to reduce general waste, 79% wanting to reduce their energy consumption and 75% wanting to use more environmentally friendly modes of transport such as walking, cycling or public transport over taxis or rental cars. 

Fortunately, it’s not just good intentions. Many of these sustainable pledges are coming to fruition, with travellers revealing that while on holiday in the past 12 months, 40% made a conscious decision to turn off their air conditioning/heater in their accommodation when they weren’t there, 53% took their own reusable water bottle, rather than buying bottled water, and 38% did activities to support the local community. 

Yet Kiwi travellers feel their own efforts may be hindered when on holiday with over half (58%) admitting they get annoyed if their accommodation stops them from being sustainable. Further, despite 81% of travellers pledging to seek out accommodation that has reputable third-party sustainability accreditation, barriers still remain with 49% of travellers believing there simply still aren’t enough sustainable travel options available in 2021. 
But it may be more a lack of communication than a lack of action: 3 out of 4** Booking.com accommodation partners say they have implemented sustainable steps at their property, but only one-third (31%**) actively communicate their efforts to potential guests, with this mostly happening at the time of check-in (59%**). With half of Kiwi travellers still believing ample sustainable travel options are not available, this suggests that significant change is needed to make sustainability information accessible at earlier stages of the booking process.

Closing the gap, step by step

Booking.com believes they have an important responsibility to make sustainable choices easier, both for accommodation providers and travellers. That’s why the company is currently rolling out a program for properties that will support them in taking the next steps to become more sustainable. This includes sharing guidance, insights and best practices with properties via various educational opportunities, including handbooks and dedicated content, all available via the Booking.com Partner Hub.

In connection, Booking.com is currently displaying over 30 certifications officially approved by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC), Green Tourism and the EU Ecolabel, as well as multiple hotel chain sustainability programs. 

Booking.com is also encouraging its accommodation partners to update their sustainability information, which includes 32 practices across five key categories: waste, energy and greenhouse gases, water, supporting local communities and protecting nature. 

“As a leader in travel, at Booking.com we believe we have an important responsibility to make sustainable choices easier, both for accommodation providers and travellers. While there is much, much more to be done, we are optimistic about the passion and commitment we are seeing from all sides,” says Lacey. 

To download Booking.com’s full 2021 Sustainable Travel Report, click here.

Just keep swimming: a love affair with year-round outdoor dips

WORDS Annette Lees PHOTOS Supplied

The Bay of Plenty could have been called “Bay of Plentiful Waters” – with hundreds of streams cascading down off its ranges, deep rivers delivering the streams to numerous wetlands and estuaries, and then all of that fresh water flowing into the sea.  

It’s a watery place, and so it’s a swimmy place. Every little neighbourhood here has its outdoor swim – a fizzing plunge pool in the local creek, a rope swing out across the river hole, a place to float in the warm estuary water and, of course, the coast with its surf and rock pools.

From the very first, outdoor swimming has defined the Bay. The first swimmer in Tauranga may have been Taurikura, a puhi of Ngāti Ranginui. Taurikura was from a village called Kahakaharoa in the Omanawa Falls area. She was shamed for refusing to fetch water for her grandfather, so she slipped away from her village one night, changed into a ngārara (a reptile-like being), and dived into the river.  On that swim, she carved a new course for the river, in the process naming some of our favourite swimming places, until she reached the sea. 

I grew up in Whakatāne. My childhood, like that of almost every other kid I knew, revolved around our swimming places. I swam everywhere I could, building layers of water memories and a strong sense of place and home – a “water-biography”. It wasn’t until my own kids became teenagers that my habit to jump into any water at my feet started to fade. And then came a fateful summer when I dipped into wild freshwater only once or twice. 

I shocked myself. I had never wanted to be that dry adult who stood on the bank or the beach, lazily watching the kids have all the fun. So I made a resolution to swim every day the coming summer to break the spell and return me to the delight of immersing myself in the wild.

That year, I did swim every day of summer. I loved it so much that I carried on, swimming every day all through autumn and into the winter and then through spring. 365 days that had a mini-holiday inserted into them every time I jumped in.  

I swam wherever I found myself that day, so I frequently entered unknown waterscapes. I approached strangers to ask where they swam and, through this, a nationwide network of very local swims opened up to me. I met people everywhere taking a dip in all kinds of weather, all through the year, and collected swimming stories from all over the country.

As I collated those stories into a book, I had the sense of a great swell of serious passion for water and swimming by New Zealanders that goes back hundreds of years.

I found 100-year-old stories from childhoods spent in the creeks of the western Bay of Plenty. In one, a memory from the 1920s, local kids filled coal sacks with stones to dam the Waitete Stream near Waihi. Each swimming hole had its own name and if you helped dam it, you were a member of that place for the summer and could swim there whenever you wanted. Winter storms washed the whole thing away, but no one minded the fun and watery job to rebuild it the following summer.

Mount Maunganui, of course, has a long history of happiness in the water. One memory from the 1920s featured the use of the ironing board to catch the waves.

Water-biographies are still being built all over the Bay of Plenty. Any beach, any river hole you were at this summer, you would’ve seen kids in the water. And with Tauranga’s recent investment in the Tidal Steps, you’re invited to step into the water any old time you’re in town.  

The Tidal Steps is an officially sanctioned bombing place where kids can practice the old leaps - the Pin, the Gorilla, the Coffin Bomb, the Knee Bomb, the Angel, and the more traditional Cannonball. In recent years, we have the Manu, a bomb simulating a bird taking flight. A good Manu bomber enters the water in a perfect V, with legs and arms straight up and the tailbone entering the water first.  Advanced is to hold a rugby or volley ball between your legs as you pop the Manu, sending the ball tens of metres into the air when you hit the water.  

Bombing is a competitive sport now, with its own town and national tournaments. In 2017, Tauranga had its first official bomb competition at the newly opened Tidal Steps. More than 30 bombers fought it out that year for the Best Bomber title, and the numbers of people entering these competitions grows annually. There’s even an “old people’s” category for those over 45.

Don’t let the arrival of winter put you off a dip. This season can provide us with some of our best swimming. Winter swimming has a seriousness about it. In my year of swimming, I found it did take a little more dedication to out in the cold, rain and gales. The sun is slow to rise and early to descend in winter, so I would sometimes have to swim in the dark to keep my pledge, but there is an added deliciousness about night time swimming.

Founder of that New Zealand icon the Plunket Society, Dr Truby King placed cold-water swimming among his top six essentials for health. The others were fruit, raw vegetables, coarse bread, water-drinking and vigorous towelling-down.

It is true that swimming in very cold water is one of life’s great experiences. A glorious shock awakens the entire body. You are made instantaneously present and aware. You have a vivid sensation of inner cleansing, revitalising and freshening. All of your senses are sharpened by peril, so that light appears crisper, your sense of touch precise, your tastebuds bright and the scent of coldness concentrated.  

When you emerge, the blood returns to your skin in a visible fizz of pink health. You are burning from head to foot, and you are likely to be laughing. The coolness, freshness and sparkle will stay with you for many hours, leaving you with a bountiful sense of wellbeing and joy. You will be kinder to your family and more generous to your workmates. You feel calm. You feel assured that the day will be exactly the right length to achieve what needs to be done. Well, that’s how it feels, anyway. I bet you swam in cold water as a kid. Try it again. Nothing’s changed.

There are actually proven health benefits to cold-water swimming. People suffering from pain or allergies (rheumatism, fibromyalgia and asthma) describe how their symptoms are eased by winter swimming, perhaps because of the sudden burst of neuroendocrines which act as natural painkillers and anti-inflammatories. Swimming regularly in winter significantly reduces tension, fatigue, and negative memory and mood states. 

You could, of course, just have a cold bath, but then you miss out on all the loveliness of wild water. Open wild water adds to each swim special qualities of sunlight slanting through the lake or sea, watery views of the natural world, full immersion in the temperature of the season, and a taste of the water’s origin. Water has 600 times the resistance of air, so it is an effort to swim through it. At the same time, it holds us up, allowing us to discover its multiple dimensions – sideways, down and back up again. We get to explore as if we’re flying. We feel weightless and freed: A 70-kilogram adult weighs only 3.5kg in water.  

Only outdoor swimming has bright light shafting through the water. The pools of watery darkness as clouds pass overhead. The wind and waves. The sense of risk and wildness and freedom. Unknown things rising up out of murky water. A feeling of falling when the water below is so deep and clear you can see fathoms. Disorientation without painted lines on the bottom. Not being able to stand, just in case you need to. The cold. The underside of paddling ducks, the flicking swish of a fish, the silence, the wobbling horizon, the distant mountain, the reflection of clouds, the fresh silkiness of wild water on your skin, the ripples and coins of light on the water surface, the rocking of the waves and currents, the watery blue. Fear and joy all mixed up. The wild blue yonder right here in the Bay of Plenty.

Swim: A Year of Swimming Outdoors in New Zealand, by Annette Lees (Potton & Burton $39.99). Available from pottonandburton.co.nz and booksaplenty.co.nz

Lexus rolls into Tauranga

WORDS Daniel Dunkley PHOTOS supplied

If you’ve ever driven a Lexus, you’ll know the experience is all about luxury. The high-end sister brand of Toyota is famous for its quality, attention to detail, and craftsmanship. And for the very first time, those features are about to be seen up close in the Bay of Plenty.

For Tony Coutinho and Mark Ranstead of Ebbett Toyota, a Lexus is more than just something to get you from A to B. It represents a higher level of service, stunning showrooms, and a bespoke approach to finding people the right vehicle. Think of the difference between flying business class and economy, and you’re about there.

The duo is close to launching Tauranga’s first Lexus showroom as Ebbett capitalises on Hamilton's growing market. While Bay of Plenty motor enthusiasts were previously forced to travel across the Kaimais to get a sneak peek at the latest models, they will soon have one of the region’s most luxurious showrooms on their doorstep.

The perfect match

After 30 years in New Zealand, why is Lexus heading to Tauranga? Coutinho, the chief executive of Ebbett Toyota, says the city and brand are a perfect match.

“This is an up-and-coming city that attracts people who like quality things,” Coutinho says. “It’s thriving, and it’s vibrant. It matches the product well and suits the kind of person who wants an experience and a certain level of service.”

The centrepiece of Coutinho’s plan is the new showroom at 158 Elizabeth Street in the heart of Tauranga. 

The new Lexus store will open in the next few weeks, informed by Japanese culture and the concept of “Omotenashi”, the unwavering commitment to exceptional hospitality. Lexus spaces in Tokyo, New York, and Dubai will inspire the ambience of the Tauranga site.

“It’s about a sense of engineered luxury,” says Ranstead, who will helm the Tauranga operation. “You walk in, and you feel that spacious, clean environment that also has warmth.”

Ranstead wants customers to be “at home” during the experience and enjoy “the art of hospitality”. “We’re there to listen more than we speak,” he says.

Dedicated to motoring perfection

All Lexus models are designed by Takumi Masters, highly-skilled Japanese master craftsmen who dedicate their lives to the pursuit of motoring perfection. The company confidently offers a four-year warranty on new cars sold in New Zealand.

Ranstead expects the latest Lexus SUVs, including the hybrid UX and NX, will be as popular in Tauranga as they are in Hamilton as people transition away from internal combustion engine vehicles towards eco-friendly alternatives.

“We know that a lot of people in Tauranga are ecologically driven, and about 70 percent of our cars are hybrids,” Ranstead says. “So we expect that to resonate with people.”

Following Lexus's global blueprint, car buyers in Tauranga will be treated to something out of the ordinary when the new site launches next month.

Customers will be closely guided through which cars suit them, steered away from those models that don’t, and offered a tailored service to help them choose the right vehicle.

“We help them select something that suits their lifestyle,” Coutinho says.“We want people engaged but relaxed. For people to walk out and say, ‘that was fun’.”

“It’s all about fine-tuning and getting to know the customer,” says Ranstead. “We know we’re not just presenting a motor vehicle. We’re presenting an experience.”

With a fleet of green luxury cars, Japanese hospitality and some local know-how, Tauranga motorists are about to get something a little different this autumn.

Ready to getaway? We’ve got the best of the Cook Islands for every traveller

It’s an exciting time for Kiwi travellers with more options becoming available overseas, like the stunning Cook Islands.

After over a year of travel restrictions, Booking.com has new research revealing our appetite to explore the world remains undiminished. Nearly two-thirds of Kiwi travellers (59%) feel more hopeful about travelling in 2021 since the global roll-out of COVID-19 vaccines, with the bubble announcements welcome news for many keen travellers. Further proof that Kiwis are as eager as ever to dust off their passports comes as Booking.com reveals searches for accommodation in Rarotonga shot up 15 places in the most searched destinations year-on-year. 

For those itching to get back to island travel, Booking.com shares their picks for travellers planning to head to the Cook Islands.

Best for families

For many with kids in tow, escaping the New Zealand winter for an island getaway has become something of a July school holiday ritual. A week-long stay at a Rarotonga beachfront villa offers a relaxed yet fun-filled environment, with the added benefit of self-catering making mealtimes with the family a breeze. Overlooking the beautiful Muri Lagoon, Te Manava Luxury Villas & Spa offers 5-star accommodation with a private pool and patio – and a completely self-contained space means you have all the luxuries of home at your fingertips. 

Best for a romantic getaway

If it’s a romantic trip for two you’re after, look no further than Aitutaki. Just a short plane ride away from the Rarotonga Airport you’ll find, situated on its own private island, the Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort. A luxury, adults only resort that offers beach-front and over-water bungalows with panoramic views of Aitutaki Lagoon, you can enjoy stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking, canoeing, snorkeling and cultural activities – or if you’re after some pampering, head to the spa that offers massages, a sauna and a hot tub. 

Best for getting back to basics

For a true island experience a stay at the Ikurangi Eco Retreat in Matavera Rarotonga will leave you feeling rested and at one with nature. You can choose from snorkeling at the nearby beach or hiking and cycling – the property offers free bicycles onsite. Just 5 minutes' drive from shopping and dining options, this eco retreat offers an onsite swimming pool and if a day outdoors has worn you out, enjoy a private meal cooked by a private chef served on your balcony. You can also unwind with an in-room massage.

Best on a budget

If you’re keen on an island getaway but the luxury resort life just isn’t for you, then a self catering beach hut could be just the ticket to relaxation. The Matriki Beach Huts provide absolute beachfront accommodation on the sunset side of the island. You can enjoy snorkelling from the beautiful white sand beach right at the front of the property. Or make the most of the outdoors and go on a hike or head out for a fishing trip. Each of the unique, rustic, self-contained beach huts, has its own terrace, simple cooking facilities and an open air shower.

Matriki Beach Huts, Arutanga, Cook Islands

Best for group travel

It’s time to reinstate the annual island getaway with the gang and where better than a private villa in sunny Raro. The Te Etu Villas are in close proximity to one another and offer all the amenities you could need for group travel, from a private pool to a poolside bar and barbeque. These gorgeous self contained villas also boast a sun terrace and both snorkelling and cycling can be enjoyed nearby this holiday home. 

Soak it in: breathtaking bathtubs with a view

As the days get cooler, the bathtub starts calling - that pure bliss of being enveloped in warmth. And as we look forward to the possibility of travel in the hopefully not-to-distant future, day dreams of spectacularly situated tubs creep in.

Taking a long, hot bath can be a truly rejuvenating and relaxing ritual. Pairing that soothing soak with panoramic vistas across the South African savannah, a stunning sunset over the Indian Ocean, or nestled among the hills in Queenstown and you have some truly epic self-care. With Stress Awareness Month in the month of April, Booking.com presents six ultra-luxurious bathtubs with one-of-a-kind epic views to take your bubble bath relaxation and travel daydreaming to the next level. Not all of these destinations have to be a daydream however – there’s a stunning jacuzzi stay right here in New Zealand for Kiwi travellers to luxuriate in this winter!

Lion Sands River Lodge, South Africa

For nature-lovers who like to mix adrenaline with relaxation on holiday, the bathtub at the Lion Sands River Lodge on the Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa is for you. This long and generously deep tub faces the banks of the Sabie River, where guests can safely spot a wealth of wild animals drinking throughout the day. The tub can also serve as a welcome wind-down after an exhilarating guided walk or safari through the reserve. No matter how travellers choose to unwind afterwards, a glass of local South African wine is a must for that added touch of indulgence. 

Hotel Aire de Bardenas, Spain

The sleek tub at Hotel Aire de Bardenas in the Navarra region of northern Spain is sure to capture the attention of any architecture and design enthusiast. Its unique outdoor location, which is connected to the guest room, is a welcome way to recharge while immersed in the raw elements of a semi-desert landscape. And as there’s no roof enclosing the tub, an evening bath will give travellers the chance to sit back and stargaze in total peace.  

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, Vietnam

The timber bathtub at the Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, sits on a dramatic bay on a peninsula of the same name overlooking the turquoise East Vietnam Sea. Guests can spend hours gazing at the mystic beauty of the white-sand beach and the towering mountains in the distance, or simply sit back and listen to the gentle waves crash against the shore in the background. To top off their serene soak, guests can spoil themselves with a six-course dinner and paired wines – a perfect way to end the day. 

Atlantis The Palm, Dubai

The spectacularly large tub at the Atlantis The Palm in Dubai will have every guest feeling like they are swimming underwater with nearly floor-to-ceiling views of United Arab Emirates’ largest aquarium, which is home to 65,000 marine animals. During their stay, travellers can sit back, pop a bottle of champagne (thanks to the hotel’s 24-hour dedicated butler service) and be mesmerised by the calming movement of the fish. 

Huvafen Fushi, Maldives 

Located on a private island that only a 20-minute speedboat ride can reach, the hot tub at Huvafen Fushi in the Maldives is all about privacy and tranquility – ideal for a royally romantic retreat. The circular hot tub is positioned in the centre of the bungalow providing a panorama of the indigo Indian Ocean – so that guests can spend all their time unwinding in serenity.  

Mahu Whenua, New Zealand

Surrounded by high country sheep stations, this luxurious stay Mahu Whenua is only a 20-minute drive from Central Wanaka, in our very own backyard. The private rooms which feature views of the mountains and Lake Wanaka also boast roomy hot tubs, where travellers can soak up their surroundings and enter a state of pure bliss. 

With a mission to make it easier for everyone to experience the world, Booking.com is sharing Getaway Deals for travellers to use when booking getaways, as it becomes safe to do so. Discounts start at 20 percent and are valid for stays until 30 September 2021.

Changing the way we stay

PHOTOS Supplied

Auckland’s The Hotel Britomart is the new kid on some beautifully restored blocks. UNO owners Jenny Rudd and Mat Tomlinson checked in.
With its cool, sustainable design; sweeping views of city and sea; soft, pristine sheets; and the kind of bathrooms you'd swap a child for, The Hotel Britomart has recently opened its 5-Green-Star-certified doors. If Auckland's the new ‘international’ for those of us from the provinces, we're more than happy to make the trip to experience it.

The spring sunshine was warm and bright when we arrived at the two slender brick towers of the Cheshire Architects-designed hotel, part of a 15-year restoration project of the historic Britomart precinct. The towers are artistically studded with irregularly arranged windows overlooking nine revitalised blocks and that 5 Green Star rating starts outside – at least 50% of the water used in the concrete was recycled and every brick is handmade.

Inside, we were greeted by hotel manager Clinton Farley, who served us kawakawa tea while pointing out elements of the design, explaining in fascinating detail where they were salvaged from and how they were restored. We felt like we were standing inside a brand new piece of history.

Want to book a stay for yourself? Be sure not to make other plans if you do, because between our hotel highlights below and the inner-city attractions on the doorstep, you really won't need to leave the 'hood. 

The lobby

They broke the rules here and we liked it. There's a story behind each space and the innovative fit-out means (in a good way) that you can't really tell where the reception is, unless one of the friendly staff is checking you in.

Our favourite thing: The nook with terracotta-coloured fabric walls and a cream built-in sofa. 

The rooms

The 99 rooms and five luxury suites are perfectly proportioned, styled with warm neutrals with an emphasis on texture.

Our favourite thing: The Sans[ceuticals] organic hair and skincare products in the bathrooms. 

The restaurant

As the name suggests, Kingi (short for ‘kingfish’) champions seafood. Just like the rest of the hotel, everything served is sustainable.

Our favourite thing: The mushroom bolognese on toast we had for breakfast.

THEHOTELBRITOMART.COM

It’s all downhill

There are more than 25 ski fields in this lovely little country of ours, and whether you’re into gently gliding across groomed pistes or consider yourselves the heli skiing types, we’re here to help you meet your match.

Best for children

Whakapapa: The rising sun strikes early at New Zealand’s largest ski field on the northern side of Mt Ruapehu, softening the slopes, and snow machines ensure a long season here. Whakapapa has thrills and spills for old hands, while Happy Valley is tailor-made for beginners and has its own ski school. You’ll also find all the sustenance and hot chocolate you need at one of the many cafés; Knoll Ridge is the highest in the country.
Skill level: Learner to experienced.
Location: Three hours from Tauranga.
Open: June to October.
Cost: Adults from $73/day.
What’s cool: Happy Valley’s see-through covered lift tunnels. 

Best for powder

TūROA: The top of Tūroa is a serious powder playground – even your boss will understand why you need to take a day off to make the first tracks. On the south-western side of Mt Ruapehu, Tūroa has a totally different feel to Whakapapa, with exposed volcanic terrain, wide trails and huge basins. It boasts the longest vertical drop in New Zealand and has the most extensive terrain parks in the North Island.
Skill level: Learner to experienced.
Location: Just under four hours from Tauranga.
Open: June to September.
Cost: Adults from $73/day.
What’s cool: The High Noon Express chairlift that takes you to 2322ft.

Best for going off-piste

CRAIGIEBURN: A club that attracts hardcore skiers and powderhounds, Craigieburn is located in the Southern Alps. Described as ‘cheap, steep and deep’, you won’t find groomed runs here – it’s just one massive off-piste area. If that doesn’t worry you, you’re probably the perfect fit.
Skill level: Intermediate to advanced.
Location: Just under two hours from Christchurch.
Open: July to August.
Cost: Adults $75/day.
What’s cool: A vertical descent that’s been compared to heliskiing – without the helicopter.
CRAIGIEBURN.CO.NZ



Best for all-day sun

MOUNT DOBSON: Usually crowd-free and with great ski schools, Mt Dobson is high up, so the snow is pretty dry, but you’ll also enjoy some lovely sun warming your back. Situated on the main road between Queenstown and Christchurch, it’s close to accommodation and other activities at nearby Tekapo. The chairlift is the centrepiece of the lift system, and there’s a natural halfpipe underneath.
Skill level: Learner to advanced.
Location: Two-and-a-half hours from Christchurch.
Open: July to August.
Cost: Adults from $84/day.
What’s cool: The epic view of Mount Cook.

Best for experts

CORONET PEAK: Coronet Peak is a world-class ski and snowboard spot, featuring state-of-the-art facilities, 280ha of skiable terrain and breath-taking views. It also has the country’s largest fully automated snow-making system, with 217 snow guns, which combined with Mother Nature results in a long season of consistently good skiing and snowboarding.
Skill level: Learner to experienced.
Location: Twenty minutes from Queenstown.
Open: June to September.
Cost: Adults from $119/day.
What’s cool: Night skiing on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Best all-rounder

CARDRONA: Like the sound of New Zealand’s biggest halfpipe? Beginner and intermediate skiers love this easy-going ski field for its wide open spaces – plus it’s often less crowded than some other local spots. With five eateries on the mountain and some of the driest snow around, this ski field really does offer something for everyone – and the drive home over the Crown Range is spectacular too.
Skill level: Learner to intermediate.
Location: Thirty minutes from Wanaka.
Open: June to October.
Cost: Adults from $65/day.
What’s cool: Stopping for a well-earned Speight’s at the Cardrona Hotel.

Hot Hawke’s Bay

WORDS KSENIIA SPODYNEIKO PHOTOS ALEX SPODYNEIKO

Heat, wine and art deco parties. Welcome to Hawke's Bay

WINE AND DINE

World-famous wineries are obviously a big drawcard. You can cycle your way round the wineries (bikeabouttours.co.nz) which could end up being challenging if you over-indulge on the way round! If you're tempted to indulge, the cosy boutique Wineries Ride through. But if tipsy bike balancing is not the way you imagined your perfect vacation, focus on the “three whales” of local vineyards to skim the cream off the best Hawke’s Bay has to offer.

Mission Estate is definitely the first check point for any tourist. The oldest winery in New Zealand is located 20 minutes away from Napier – quite hard not to call on the way to the other sights. Outdoor lunches are adorable here! Pretty much the way you would imagine them to be in the year 1851, when the winery was established. Elegant architecture, muted talks, inspiring views and fantastic food. Leaving this place without giving local cheeses platter a try is a crime. Creamy blue “Kapiti Kikorangi” itself is worth $32, but this price also includes two more sorts and a bunch of fruits, jams and crackers. 

The other must-sees are Craggy Range (voted Best New World Winery) and Elephant Hill. Two “sisters” where built by the same architect and share the same standards of producing the best wine ever. Though skipping any of these would be a mistake. Surrounded by the epic mountains Craggy Range celebrates all things French – from cuisine to the architecture and landscapes. Whereas family-owned Elephant Hill belongs to Germans – determined and precise people focused on high technologies and outstanding presentation. Just ask for their iconic Airavata Syrah degustation ($120 per bottle while the degustation is only $5) and be ready to watch the show.

WHAT TO SEE

To feel the vibes of the festive Hawke’s Bay start with exploring its gem – Napier. The best way to discover this city is obviously by vintage car. Because where else if not in the world’s Art Deco capital? Either rent a lovely Hooters’ open top next to the Masonic Hotel or book one of the perfectly polished Art Deco Trust cars around the corner. Tere Morales-Probert from the latest is the guide to die for. 45 minutes in one car with her and you are ready to move here immediately – impossible to resist her jokes, positive attitude and touching love to Napier.

After the tour around the city and aesthetically beautiful lunch at Mission Estate head towards Havelock North – quiet small town right next to the picturesque Te Mata Peak. But no more city life for today! Time for some tough outdoor calories burning. Leave the car by the main entrance – only you, your big water bottle and spectacular surroundings are ahead. The 5 km hiking trail across Te Mata is challenging, but definitely worth the sweat. Just imagine yourself balancing on a narrow path at the very top of the mountain chain – scorched by the sun valleys on both sides, wind in your hair and Giant Redwoods at your feet. Welcome to the Real Middle Earth! The only thing ruining the euphoria of conquering the top is a steady roadway right to the peak. Honestly, how dare all those people distract you from this workout by passing by in their air conditioned 4x4? 

But nothing on Earth can ever compare with an adventure of getting to the famous Cape Kidnappers on a 1949 tractor! Sure, you’ve heard the story about the Tahitian boy, kidnapped by local Maori from the Captain Cook’s ship. Yes, that is that place! No one kidnaps people here anymore, on the contrary, they come willingly to see the world’s largest accessible Gannet Colony. There are several ways to get to the beautiful birds, starting from the 9 km walk along the beach – definitely not the most pleasant option! Mind the way back as well. Whereas comfy and fun trip with Gannet Beach Adventures is. Those guys use huge vintage tractors to bring people right to the bottom of Cape Kidnappers. As if the trip on the machines like that wasn’t epic enough itself, tractors are driven into the ocean or up the massive stones to make adrenaline rush through your veins. Guides tell interesting stories about this unique place and make jokes after jokes. Though the one about four million dollars made by one of the guides looked not quite as a joke! And he is divorced by the way. Just saying…

WHERE TO STAY

Hawke’s Bay is all about atmosphere and the Art Deco Masonic Hotel in Napier is 100% the perfect place to dive into it from the very first second. Located in one of the rare buildings not ruined by the 1931 earthquake, this hotel is insane.

Just imagine, they still keep the secret underground bar, operated during the years when alcohol was prohibited! Bar counter, graffiti, chairs – everything is left as if it was abandoned only yesterday. Though, guests are not allowed to come down these days. 

Many other things are preserved here right as they were made a century ago: massive staircases, tiny doors (how slim and short people used to be!), old-fashioned chandeliers and mirrors. So you literally live in history.

The most exciting part about this hotel? Not a single room is like another! Makes every of your 46 trips to Hawke’s Bay pretty special, huh? That is exactly how many rooms they have.

Masonic Hotel can easily be called the city’s centre of gravity – no matter if you’re in search for the Six Sisters houses, returning from the jazz concert, or just feel like buying a scoop of real fruit ice cream from the nearest shop – you will always end up nearby the hotel. Isn’t it just convenient?

UNO Staycation: Rotorua

We wanted a weekend away with our children; an antidote to screen time: adventure, laughing, and fun. And we didn’t want to spend ages travelling. So we took a staycation in Rotorua! The money we saved on travel (just an hour down the road) and accommodation (we didn't need any, we slept at home!), we spent on experiences. It was a decision well made.

There must be something in that Vegas air, everyone working in this booming tourist industry was friendly and knowledgeable, and they all genuinely love their jobs.

We were a fairly big group: Mat, his mum (love you, Susie!) and I, our five children and a young nephew. The children ranged from four up to 13, so adrenaline was the order of the day. And that's what we got!

Saturday am: Up the Skyline Gondola and down the luge. I'm a wimp so doubled up with my daughter and took the slower of the three routes down through the trees.

Saturday lunch: A hearty lunch at the iconic Pig & Whistle refuelled the whole team, ready to go again.

Saturday pm: Agroventures is home to six adrenaline-fuelled rides. Our big children found soaking the youngsters on the Agrojet he most amusing activity!

We drove back home to The Mount, had a huge dinner and fell asleep almost immediately. Up early on Sunday morning and a short drive back to the Rotorua thanks to that brilliant toll road round Te Puke.

Sunday am: This was my favourite: sloshing around in warm water inside an inflatable rolling ball at OGO. Our stomach muscles ached from giggling.

Sunday afternoon: After all that action, the Polynesian Spa was a great choice. We loved the new Priest Spring acidic mineral hot pool overlooking the steamy lake.

A debrief and afternoon tea at the country's café of the year, Capers, rounded off our weekend just perfectly.

#UNOLovesRotorua

The itinerary:

Saturday

Morning: Up the Skyline gondola and down the luge

Lunch: Pig & Whistle

Afternoon: Agroventures

Sunday

Morning: OGO

Lunch: I took a picnic

Afternoon: Polynesian Spa, followed by afternoon tea at Capers

My heart lies in Fiji: Nicky Adams shares her favourite stays

WORDS NICKY ADAMS IMAGE SUPPLIED

International jet-setting explorer and, in another life, Condé Nast Traveller writer, Nicky Adams, has a whole new perspective on travel, given her permanent luggage of three small children.

My heart lies in Fiji - always has, always will. While there are many beautiful island destinations in this world, they don’t all come complete with a welcome that feels absolutely genuine, a national pride which shines out, and the locals’ desire to share their blessings with you, a passing traveller. And this doesn’t just apply to the resorts; venture out to central Fiji and there is not only magnificent countryside, but also new depths of hospitality. As for the outer islands, the beauty of these is nothing short of jaw dropping. However, while there was once a time I loved to explore, I now have three young children, and I can’t think of anything more horrific than discovering new horizons with them in tow. Oh no; I want streamlined travel, I want ease and I want cocktails, and lots of them. 

Which leads me straight to Denarau, a wee pocket of joy along the Fiji’s west coast. Granted, the beach does not have the wow factor or the snorkeling opportunities found at the outer islands, however a day trip to these is a breeze to arrange. And what Denarau offers in abundance is convenience and variety: resorts, restaurants and activities. So whether you are zipping over for a short stay or combining a stopover with an island retreat, ease is the name of the game. Whip through the airport (currently being upgraded) and after a 20 minute cab ride, voila! Check in, throw down your bags, strip off your winter warmers and melt into a ringside seat at the oceanfront bar. Perfect.

Here are some of the resorts who get that job done.

Radisson Blu Resort Fiji Denarau

Rated the Number One Family Resort in Fiji in the 2016 and 2017 TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards, this is a spectacular location. Families flock here, loving the extensive grounds, selection of three kids’ pools, and of course the particularly cool (usually supervised) water slide. The lush tropical landscaping makes you feel as if you really are in Fiji as opposed to just a five-star-resort anywhere in the world, and this tropicana also helps dull down the noise of all the wee ones, so those dozing by the adults-only pool remain undisturbed. The Radisson in my opinion has a number of big draw cards – firstly it’s the only resort to boast climate-controlled pools. There is also good shade-sail coverage over the pools, which is unique to this resort, and finally there is the offer of some complimentary water sport activities. The Blu Banana Kids Club is comprehensive, but I was more impressed by the daily activities, so that if you don’t want to use the club, there is still plenty to do. The rooms are spacious and well appointed, however next October a big overhaul will start its first phase, which will take the rooms to a whole new realm. Incidentally, despite offering six fabulous restaurant choices (check out Signature Blu for fine dining) the one-bedroom suite comes with full kitchen facilities – and, gasps from those who enjoy home comforts, a washing machine and dryer. For families of five, if the youngest is an infant, you can fit into the suite, but you’ll need to contact the resort directly.

radissonblu.com/resort-fiji

Sheraton Fiji Resort

This resort is an integrated complex, which allows you access to both the facilities of the Sheraton and the Sheraton Villas, and the shared foyer will frankly knock your socks off. As you walk through the open entrance and look across an infinity pool to the ocean beyond, it’s hard to hold back tears of joy! Aimed at families, the villas comfortably house larger groups. While the exterior of the complex feels a little dated, there were details that make all the difference to a stay. The suites are spacious, towels were found to be soft and fluffy, the plunger coffee plentiful, and the kids’ pool ideal for young ones, and crucially, nice and close to the accommodation. Unlike the Radisson, where getting a hot spot around the pool can be cutthroat at times, here it’s a less aggressive activity. Another bonus is that guests are able to use the facilities at sister resort The Westin, which has, amongst other things, a brilliant outside play area for young kids. It’s a sad day when you admit to getting excited about a playground, but when the kids have had too much sun, this shaded area is enough to make me want to whoop with joy. Never mind the exceptional spa facilities and the access to the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club, just give me a decent swing and my heart sings.

sheratondenarauvillas.com

Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa

The Sofitel has an easy-breezy feel about it and the vibe is super family friendly, with little touches like an outdoor movie area close enough to the rooms for older kids to hang out unsupervised. It offers some really enticing deals for Accor members; amongst them, discounts of up to 50 percent on meals from the restaurant, and the day I visited, FJ$45 for unlimited soft drinks all day (plus alcoholic cocktails at certain times – yum). I do feel that this resort is a little tired and less up to the minute than others, however, to compensate for that the Sofitel has pulled something quite spectacular out of the bag in the form of The Waitui Beach Club. This is taking the idea of ‘adults only’ very seriously, even boasting its own check-in area. To ensure tranquility both the ‘Club’ and the rooms included in the Waitui Club, are located away from the family rooms. Oozing luxury, a peaceful vibe pervades. All the trimmings can be found: white daybeds, a glass walled gym overlooking the ocean that offers, amongst other things, yoga classes to help unwind further. If that’s not enough, beautiful people with beautiful silver trays of canapés waft around periodically throughout the day. To top it off, there’s an hour of complimentary evening cocktails. And not a child in sight.

sofitel.com/Fiji_Denarau

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NICKY’S TOP TIPS

• Check out the Tuckers ice-cream corner just outside the front of the Sheraton, delicious and a third of the price of the New Zealand Natural cones in the resorts.

• There is a medical centre on Denarau, and I can vouch for the fact that the service is quick and efficient.

• For à la carte I would recommend Signature Blu at the Radisson. Watch out for exclusive restaurants that are ‘cashless’ and menus that don’t include tax (on the list price) or vegetables, or you could, like us, find yourself paying over FJ$100 for a slab of steak alone.

• You can take some food types into Fiji, so if you like fresh milk, freeze it and take it as the resorts seem to only sell UHT. Other items to take are gourmet crackers, cheese and chocolate, all of which tend to be highly priced.

• Take a taxi to the port early in your trip and stock up on beer and supplies from the supermarket there.

• Flexibility with travel dates can result in competitive room rates. Also bear in mind that by using an agent you may be able to work out a room configuration that you cannot do online.
  

Aston Martin DBX: supreme luxury on all terrains

With the kind of exhilarating power and control necessary for navigating New Zealand’s unique and challenging terrain, the Aston Martin DBX brings with it a luxury that could comfortably take you from one end of the country to the other.

The first ever SUV from Aston Martin, it’s also a rare example of getting it right first time - scooping ‘Best Designed Car of the Year’ from The Sunday Times and ‘Best Luxury SUV’ from the GQ Car Awards.

4 October, 2020; London UK: Aston Martin Lagonda’s first SUV, DBX, has been awarded the ‘Best Designed Car of the Year’ at The Sunday Times Motor Awards. While the shortlist is drawn up by judges at News UK, the winners are chosen by readers votes.

Will Dron, Editor of Driving.co.uk at The Sunday Times said, “A brand traditionally associated with sports cars had a tough job on its hands creating its first SUV, but the fact that Sunday Times readers voted the DBX their favourite design of the year — against some truly stunning competition — is a clear indication that Aston Martin got it right first time.”

The Aston Martin DBX was first revealed in November last year and sees the British brand compete in a new segment of the global luxury market for the first time. Built on a new dedicated platform in a purpose-built manufacturing facility in St Athan in Wales, DBX remains distinctly an Aston Martin through both its engineering and design: From the signature grille at the front, through the sculptured sides and design feature line, to the tailgate flip that draws inspiration from the brands most focused sports car, Vantage.

Marek Reichman, Aston Martin Lagonda EVP and Chief Creative Officer says, “We are delighted that Aston Martin DBX has been awarded by readers of The Sunday Times for its design. We designed DBX as we would a sports car, but its unique platform gave us the freedom to create an SUV with stunning performance and design, and to be awarded Best Designed Car of the Year makes us very proud of what we have achieved ”.

Chief of Vehicle Attribute Engineering Matt Becker says the DBX offers supreme confidence, whatever the terrain.

“Our performance has seen us push the boundaries of what is possible for an SUV.”

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DBX is an SUV with a V8 engine that offers an exhilarating 550PS power output, backed by 700Nm of torque. That power is delivered over the widest possible range, focused on providing instant throttle response.

The DBX has active all-wheel drive with variable torque distribution and height-adjustable air suspension, which combine to give you the confidence and versatility you need for life’s great adventures. Thanks to lightweight aluminum construction, and its world-leading powertrain and suspension developed by the finest engineers of their kind, DBX drives like no other SUV - it drives like a sports car.

Path of progress: Motu Trails, Opotiki

How a decade-old cycle trail is delighting both tourists and the local community contributing to its success.

WORDS Sue Hoffart PHOTOS Jim Robinson, Neil Robert Hutton + Cam Mackenzie

A scenic dunes trail that has resolved a watery paradox for the coastal town of Opōtiki is proving a massive drawcard for both locals and tourists.

Ancient waka travellers and modern-day boat owners have always been able to access the ocean by way of twin rivers that wrap around the Eastern Bay of Plenty township. But it took a cycle trail and handsome suspension bridge spanning Otara River to connect walkers, joggers and bikers with the gloriously long stretch of coastline on their doorstep.

Most of the spectacular Motu Trails cycleway network lies inland, where rugged grade three and four tracks attract hardy mountain bikers keen to test themselves on backcountry roads and steep forest trails. Collectively, they range over 30km of track and more than 150km of gravel and backcountry roads. The most mellow section, though, begins with a pedestrian bridge on the northern edge of town and a delightfully scenic, undulating gravel track running parallel to the shoreline.

Increasing popularity

It is this 9km grade two “dunes trail” that has given the town its beach, according to tourism operator and local resident Volker Grindel. The decade-old trail has become increasingly popular with Opotiki people and visitors.

“Before, everyone needed a car to get to the beach,” Volker says. 

These days local children and carless residents can reach the coast safely on foot, by crossing the Pakowhai ki Otutaopuku bridge, rather than having to walk more than 3km along the highway and side road. So too can tourists who arrive by bus or bike. After crossing the river, the trail meanders past grazing Friesian cows and opens onto views of the East Cape and nearby Moutohorā (Whale Island).

“The dunes section is the most used part of the Motu Trails,” Volker says.

“The town kids and people who live here use it a lot for fitness; running, jogging. And the kids who live out of town use it to come to school on their bikes because it’s safer than the highway. I’ve even seen a little fella with training wheels.”

Happy accident

Volker and his wife Andrea operate a small backpackers’ hostel and Andrea runs their busy Kafe Friends coffee cart just off the main street. The German-born couple, who met in Opotiki after her car broke down there, are seeing increasing numbers of day trippers in bike gear from nearby Rotorua, Whakatane and Tauranga. 

He says Tirohanga Beach Motor Camp, part way along the dunes, is packed with people using bikes during summer holidays and weekends. Plenty of those campers and cycle tourists make their way along the trail to the town centre.

“Before, they were not taking their kids on that busy road. Now, they come here to town do some shopping, drop in for coffee here or somewhere else. So the Four Square, the New World, the gas stations all get something out of this trail, too.”

Andrea runs along the dunes when she is training for half-marathons, and it is used by dog walkers and local schools that have been inspired to run duathlons and small cycle events for students.

Long-time volunteer trail builder, keen biker and Motu Trails executive officer Jim Robinson does track assessments, as well as overseeing signage, the trails website and Facebook page and multiple other roles. He laughs at his fancy title and stresses the trust-run operation is small and heavily reliant on unpaid community involvement, as well as council and conservation department input. But he says there is no doubting the Motu social and economic benefits, or its standing as a ‘great ride’ of Ngā Haerenga, the New Zealand Cycle Trail.

He is especially enthused by the ongoing planting and beautification programme that has transformed the “really important but environmentally degraded” sand dunes area with the help of about 20,000 flax bushes, cabbage trees, pōhutukawa and other native plants. All have been poked into the ground by volunteers, with another three planting days planned this winter.

Jim says one section of coastline now occupied by the dunes trail had been used for dumping rubbish, other parts had been grazed by stock, or were covered in gorse, kikuyu, boxthorn, pampas and other undesirable invaders.

Points of interest

Interpretive signs denote culturally significant areas, including historic landing sites and burial grounds, and the track route was chosen to avoid especially sacred or sensitive sites.

Local potters and environmentalists Margaret and Stuart Slade provided handmade ceramic tiles depicting birds, mounted on concrete culverts to create sturdy sculpture. Earlier artworks were provided by schoolchildren who painted wooden cut-outs of birds and animals as a conservation week project.

Small tourism operators have sprung up to offer farmstay accommodation, food or shuttle transport to mountain bikers using the trails that connect Opotiki to Gisborne.

Late last year, long-time kayak tour operator Kenny McCracken began offering guided bike tours along the dunes, incorporating local history and food, with an optional swim along the way.

“There’s a massive amount of community ownership of the trail,” Jim says.

A long weekend in Los Angeles: our editor shows you how

WORDS + PHOTOS Jenny Rudd

So you probably think it's not possible, what with that 12 hour flight. But it all dovetails neatly. The flights are overnight both directions, and there's only a 3 hour time difference, which you barely notice. Leave Auckland Friday night and land mid-morning on the same day. Then leave LA on Sunday night and land back home first thing on Tuesday. Because you've slept all night on the plane you'll be fresh enough to go to work that day. So you can go on holiday to America and only take Monday off work. What a great shimmy!

Friday

If we're only going for the weekend, we're staying in Venice Beach with the action. We dumped our stuff and got straight outside. Using your Uber app, you can pick up ebikes to cruise along the boulevard. It's a slow ride because there's so much take in and see. Although Venice is famous for Muscle Beach and oiled bronze bodies, there's also a hippy, anything-goes vibe which you notice straight away, cycling through fragrant puffs of weed smoke; marijuana's legal in California.

The bike path ran for miles. Eventually the bright colours and pleasant oddball residents faded to the sleeker Santa Monica. The farmer's market was in full swing so we gulped down bright and sweet blood orange juice and turned round to head back.

We were amazed by the number of people using all the public facilities; there were lots of basketball matches going on with spectators joining in and dropping out, the skatepark was a blur of tie dye and wheels on concrete. A huge, empty car park had been repurposed as an ice hockey pitch.

After a full day of biking and sightseeing, we were pretty happy to grab takeaway caprese salads from the deli next door to the hotel and eat them in bed, flicking through the millions of TV channels.

Saturday

If a tour guide is as enthusiastic and knowledgeable as Daniel, you know you're going to have a good time. An online search had showed us that ALL Day LA Tours would teach us about the history of the city and give us ideas of things to do. We started in Hollywood at the Walk of Fame, then up to the Hollywood sign which used to be a real estate sign for the land underneath in Franklin Village, a peaceful graveyard housing some of the greats: Marylin Monroe, Hugh Hefner, and my favourite - Peter Faulk of Columbo fame.

Daniel took us through the grounds of Greystone Mansion, a huge estate in Beverly Hills with landscaped grounds built in the twenties by oil tycoon Edward L. Doheny for his son, Ned. It's since been gifted to the city. What a story; Ned killed himself and his secretary in one of the spare rooms. The two men had been involved in an oil scandal with Ned's father.

The whole tour was story after story like this and we whizzed around in a comfy people mover with no windows for maximum photo opportunities. We finished off driving down Rodeo Drive and all of us goggling at the outrageous displays of wealth.

Saturday night in Venice Beach was lively, we decided to go for sushi just off the main drag which was a great choice after all the chips and cookies we'd packed away during the day. The interior was sparse and urban and the sashimi was excellent.

Sunday

We had a late start over the continental breakfast included at the hotel, then walked to the achingly cool Abbot Kinney Boulevard. There are murals of the sides of buildings everywhere, and the artiness of the locals really shows. We heard stories that it's been gentrified and that had changed quite a bit over the years. But we loved it. The thought and design that had gone into every space whether it's a clothes shop or restaurant gives you so much to stop and look at.

Lunch was a huge pile of salad from Greenleaf which described themselves as a gourmet chop shop.

A sunny stroll through the canals which are a great surprise to find in such a sprawling city, and we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed back out to the airport for our 9pm flight.

An entirely different continent and three days of discovery, then back feeling refreshed. The best way to holiday.

Stay:

Inn at Venice Beach

Retro rooms with huge images everywhere of Venice Beach over the years. It felt retro and fun with pops of orange on white bedspreads. The location was fantastic: 20 minutes from the airport, right near the action, clean and quiet.

innatvenicebeach.com

Eat:

Sushi Enya

Chef Kimiyasu Enya trained for 10 years before setting up his three restaurants in Los Angeles. The interior was industrial and all focus is on the clean bites of sashimi.

sushienya.com

Move:

Don't even think about renting a car. We used Uber and the scooters and bikes which were everywhere, and easily unlocked with our Uber app.

m.uber.com

Hamilton through the Insta-lens: the most snappable spots in the city

Modern-day travels are not only about new places, people or flavours anymore. Perfect Instagram pictures are playing the leading role. Not a problem in Hamilton – probably the most Insta-suitable city in the area.  

WORDS Kseniia Spodyneiko PHOTOS Alex Spodyneiko

#TeaWithAView

To start this one-day photo-hunt in the Waikato region, we drove extra 10 km from Hamilton – directly to the hidden in between the fields and farms aristocratic Zealong Tea Estate. From the spacious black-and-white shop to the traditional high tea ceremony - this place is all about sophistication. 

Even its story is extraordinary: 11 years ago local tea lover Vincent went to Asia and selected 1,500 cuttings to start tea growing in New Zealand. Little did he know about the upcoming challenges! After the long quarantine only 130 plants survived! Those were the strongest and the best ones. The ones that quickly turned Vincent’s small garden into a 1 million sprouts organic plantation. 

And by “organic” they mean certified world’s highest food safety standards. Literally, they are not even allowed to spray the grass. At Zealong they hire people to get rid of bags manually instead! And I thought having a personal Whittaker’s flavour “Waikato Grown Oolong Tea in Dark Chocolate” was already cool enough…

We were lucky to be guided around by the amazing Annalese Webber. Currently the administrator, she started her career as a waitress in Zealong café, where she still makes traditional tea ceremonies for guests. And that is a must! Followed by a high tea on the terrace with an epic view over the plantation, this process is simply hypnotizing. 

Talking about the views – grab the cutest cupcake from a traditional British three-tiered tea plate and proceed to the small lookout nearby. Strike a pose and be ready to wake up famous. 

#NeverStopExploring

Hamilton Gardens are yet another place not to be missed. After all, what else if not all those colourful flowers are the reason for the nowadays photo hysteria? 

The famous local sight is a tricky labyrinth of traditional for different countries and centuries gardens. Dive into the Italian Renaissance for the impressive geometry and symmetry. Japanese corner surprises with its picturesque pond. Sustainable Backyard brings in a touch of coziness and childhood memories. And the authenticity of the Indian Char Bagh can confuse even the most experienced travellers (the best perspective is at the corner to the left from the entrance).

In the second half of the exciting walk you will bump into the Tudor Garden that truly steals the show! Epic stone tower, beasts’ sculptures, recognisable green and white stripes (thank you Jonathan Rhys Meyers for turning us into the Tudor experts) – perfect spot! Stay on the balcony to capture the fantasy atmosphere of this place in its best angles.

#Foodporn

When it comes to food, nothing can go wrong in Hamilton. This city is famous for vibrant interesting restaurants. Overlooking the beautiful Waikato River is the popular Gothenburg with its fancy tapas menu. Crispi potato gnocchi with blue cheese, walnuts and pear are a win-win: delicious and beautifully plated. By the way, this place is known for the best view over the river. You got the idea.

For a less pretentious lunch head to Mexico or Iguana. Located right across each other on Victoria Street, they can turn the decision-making into a nightmare. Softshell tacos with achiote plancha pork belly in apple chutney or a seasonal pizza with coffee-rubbed venison and smoked mozzarella on a plum sauce base? Both, please.

No matter what your choice is, make sure you leave room for dessert. Duck Island Ice Cream (300a Grey Street) is organic, made in-store and is literally the best ice-cream ever! Will trade my left hand for an extra scoop of that Maple, Honeycomb and Smoked Almond calorie bomb. And they have 17 more outstanding flavours. Rhubarb Szechuan Peppercorn, anyone?

Iguana Restaurant

#SkyIsTheLimit

The rest of the day we spent admiring Zuru Nightglow. Annual hot air balloons show is the part of the weekly Balloons over Waikato festival. This event is huge – Zuru Nightglow alone is said to be visited by 80 000 people! 

At 8 pm enormous balloons in shapes of hugging birds, cartoon helicopters and rockets start to, well, glow following the rhythm of the popular hits. Culmination comes with the fireworks. As beautiful as hard to capture! You simply can’t beat thousands of people photobombing your pics.

But there is always a second chance for someone fascinated by the hot air balloons in Hamilton. During the summer season they fly over the city every morning. 

#RealLife

(Things to do in Hamilton for those not addicted to Instagram):

Te Aroha Mineral Spa

Fed by the world’s only hot soda geyser, this spa offers private wooden tubs and relaxing beauty treatments by Mount Te Aroha. 

The Base

The largest shopping centre in New Zealand is definitely worth a visit. Loved by beauty moguls for The Body Shop, Lush and L’Occitane all in one place.

Waikato Museum

Dinosaurs, Tourism posters, Milk production – Waikato Museum exhibitions are anything but boring.

A whole new world: you’re never too old for Disneyland

WORDS NICKY ADAMS PHOTOS SUPPLIED

Don’t try to resist Disneyland’s pastel allure – this magical alternate universe really is fun for all ages.

Given it’s known as ‘The Happiest Place On Earth’, it’s hard to keep expectations in check ahead of a trip to California’s Disneyland. After all, this is it, the childhood land of milk and honey – one huge expanse of delirious delightfulness. It’s like a parallel universe has been created, filled with flowers, colour, magic and rides – so many rides. There are marshmallow dreams coming at you from every direction from the minute you step through the gates, and even the most sceptical of sceptics wouldn’t be able to resist the joy.

Now, to start with full disclosure, historically I’ve never loved theme parks, purely because an adrenaline junkie I am not. Big Dipper? A big not likely, so I certainly wasn’t visiting Disneyland for the rush. It had been a family dream to make the trip, and with three children between four and 10, the question was when, not if, it was best to take the plunge. In reality, absolutely any age works. As I watched my husband Scott shove the children aside so he could jump onto the first carriage of the It’s A Small World ride, I realised with certainty that you’re never too old for Disneyland.

The city of Anaheim is home to Disneyland Park and Disney California Adventure Park, which sit amid a district known as Downtown Disney. Much of the surrounding area is taken up with hotels of various degrees of swankiness, which service the parks. Downtown Disney is where the magic begins; a pedestrianised paved area, this hub is brimming with eateries and retailers. Among the flower gardens and benches, you’ll often see street performers – and we’re not talking a few juggling balls. Calibre-wise, we’re one notch off Broadway.

Despite the fact that the minute we arrived, our children were gagging to get to the parks, we opted to have a ‘rest day’ to chill out by the pool. Trust me, you need to be firing on all cylinders once you’re within the hallowed walls. There are a number of different options for passes; whichever you choose, strategy is imperative. I’m not organised by nature, but this is one time when military-style planning is not OTT. The Disneyland website is well worth spending time on, and a Disneyland app that provides wait times is potentially a lifesaver. Multiple entry on your pass allows you to come in and out as the kids become tired, and for us also meant our older kids – and Scott – could return at night and do all the more hardcore rides. Another bonus was being able to leave the parks to eat in the Downtown area.

We found the food pretty ho-hum inside the parks, so we packed plenty of snacks and water, and tried to last as long as we could. We picked Disneyland for our first day (not all tickets allow you to go between parks). It’s not a wild exaggeration to say that as soon as you’re inside, the euphoria takes hold. Everywhere you look, there are Disney characters; princesses, villains, heroes – all larger than life, friendlier and just as appealing as newborn pups. Although the temptation is to throw yourself on them, there is a protocol, with the kids quickly forming a line to get a handshake and autograph from each character. When it comes to the rides, some visitors plan their route around their preferences, some meander, and some are guided by the FastPass – a fantastic way to jump the queues. However, this isn’t available on all the attractions, so find out in advance if it works for the activities you want to do.

We largely ambled around picking the rides the kids fancied and didn’t seem to have lines that were too long. Of course, realistically, queueing is unavoidable; a bit like petrol prices, you just have to suck it up, and when the surroundings are so totally awesome, it seems churlish to moan about a queue.

So how did I fare on the ride front? Actually, pretty well. I gritted my teeth and went on the big Pixar Pal-A-Round wheel; with a grin fixed on my face, eyes squeezed shut behind my sunnies, I gripped with white knuckles to the side. I accidentally went on the Radiator Springs Racers ride, which I thought would be a gentle drive through the mountains. It transpired that behind the alpine façade was a well-hidden roller coaster, so I spent the duration screaming, with my head buried in my eight year old’s lap. But I loved all the less hairy options, of which there are plenty. As for the kids, well, they hit everything hard and fast – and with a range of rides that’s beyond comprehension, there’s something to suit every level of tolerance. To be honest, though, the rides are just one small part of the thrill.

Within each park, there are a whole range of experiences and scheduled shows that are put on throughout the course of the day – some are intimate performances, others take place in large amphitheatres. They’re absolutely worth going to; we were wowed by (shudder if you will) the Frozen performance, which in itself it was worth the cost of the pass. Another big whoop for our family were the parades that take place in the late afternoons. As the characters bound past, all twitching tails, shaking feathers and shimmering sequins, you can’t help but marvel at the truly incredible spectacle. Another must-see are the fireworks displays. As each rocket bursts sky high in pyrotechnic glory, it’s proof beyond doubt that here in Disneyland, the magic never ends.

DISNEYLAND.DISNEY.GO.COM

How to do Disney:

• check that your travel dates don’t clash with any events being held at the Disneyland parks, or you may have to vacate early.

• consider Character Dining at a Disneyland Resort hotel. The characters entertain you while you eat – super-fun for the kids.

• booking in advance is essential. ... choose your timing. The heat and American holidays can be intense, though we loved going in October, when the Halloween celebrations proved to be a bonus. Be sure to check out the daily calendar too.

• consider the benefits of the Disneyland Resort Hotels: proximity plus an Extra Magic Hour, when the park is closed to everyone else. Do note that not all rides are open during this time, however.

• also think about staying in one of the hotels along ‘the strip’, Harbour Boulevard. It’s an easy walk and there are regular buses.

• don’t worry too much about security. Bag checks are conducted on entering Downtown Disney. The one incident of unruly behaviour I saw drew three undercover security guards faster than I could say, “Mickey Mouse.”

• don’t take your own pram. They can be hired daily.

• and don’t judge locals with Disney tattoos. You’ll be seeing a lot of them.